Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo & Question?
That'd be the other Bruce: Bruce Hector...
JB
JB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 14, 2002 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Wyo & Question?
| Jeff
|
| Doesn't Bruce Hallman run/own/manage or is employed by a corrosion
| proofing company? If not him then another one of our beer drinking
| Canadian members.
|
| HJ
|
| John Cupp wrote:
| >
| > Jeff, what will you be using rope and chain or just chain for your
| > anchoring. I don't know if you just read about the new UHMW. You
| > could epoxy UHMW onto the rollers and it will last. I would cut the
| > UHMW to size and put on the epoxy then clamp it on with heater hose
| > clamps every half inch or even closer. it would be good to cover the
| > clamps in Vaseline so they don't accidentally get epoxied on.
| > Anything that doesn't have a wear surface you could paint with two
| > part polyurethane paint. It last longer than any other type of paint.
| > another suggestion is that you have copper or bronze plating put on.
| > Most plating shops have to plate with copper or bronze before they
| > plate with chrome. That makes it much less costly than people think.
| >
| > The only problem with epoxy is that unless you bag the steel pieces
| > then small air pockets will form oxidation and actually force the
| > epoxy coating to crack. That is the main purpose of bagging in the
| > first place, to get rid of air bubbles.
| >
| > John
| >
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
Jeff
Doesn't Bruce Hallman run/own/manage or is employed by a corrosion
proofing company? If not him then another one of our beer drinking
Canadian members.
HJ
John Cupp wrote:
Doesn't Bruce Hallman run/own/manage or is employed by a corrosion
proofing company? If not him then another one of our beer drinking
Canadian members.
HJ
John Cupp wrote:
>
> Jeff, what will you be using rope and chain or just chain for your
> anchoring. I don't know if you just read about the new UHMW. You
> could epoxy UHMW onto the rollers and it will last. I would cut the
> UHMW to size and put on the epoxy then clamp it on with heater hose
> clamps every half inch or even closer. it would be good to cover the
> clamps in Vaseline so they don't accidentally get epoxied on.
> Anything that doesn't have a wear surface you could paint with two
> part polyurethane paint. It last longer than any other type of paint.
> another suggestion is that you have copper or bronze plating put on.
> Most plating shops have to plate with copper or bronze before they
> plate with chrome. That makes it much less costly than people think.
>
> The only problem with epoxy is that unless you bag the steel pieces
> then small air pockets will form oxidation and actually force the
> epoxy coating to crack. That is the main purpose of bagging in the
> first place, to get rid of air bubbles.
>
> John
>
Thanks all for the responses. I'm a reasonable welder so fabricating is
easy enough. My fabrication needs are for anchor handling and I'm going to
put a removeable rudder setup between the outboards.
1. The rudder will act like a skeg for tracking in rivers and currents when
motoring a slow speeds. Highly recommended by the builders of the first Wyo
and Tennessees used when floating down rivers. When drifting with currents
the outboards have minimal effect for steering. About 1/2 of the Wyo's use
will be rivers or higher current areas.
2. It'll help in docking and tight quarters.
3. Reduce swing when anchored when used in combination with the
centerboard.
4. It'll be attached directly to the hydraulics with the engines.
5. Emergency steering capability.
6. Skeg like qualities if I ever get caught in severe weather and following
or head seas.
By the way, PB&F thinks it's okay though probably not necessary but I'm
inclined to do it anyway. It wouldn't be used much and mostly at anchor or
close in handling. I will build it like the Michalak rudder I had on the
Frolic so it can swing up when not in use. Plenty of room on the transom
and I can adjust the swing ratio to match the outboards.
Jeff
Jeff
easy enough. My fabrication needs are for anchor handling and I'm going to
put a removeable rudder setup between the outboards.
1. The rudder will act like a skeg for tracking in rivers and currents when
motoring a slow speeds. Highly recommended by the builders of the first Wyo
and Tennessees used when floating down rivers. When drifting with currents
the outboards have minimal effect for steering. About 1/2 of the Wyo's use
will be rivers or higher current areas.
2. It'll help in docking and tight quarters.
3. Reduce swing when anchored when used in combination with the
centerboard.
4. It'll be attached directly to the hydraulics with the engines.
5. Emergency steering capability.
6. Skeg like qualities if I ever get caught in severe weather and following
or head seas.
By the way, PB&F thinks it's okay though probably not necessary but I'm
inclined to do it anyway. It wouldn't be used much and mostly at anchor or
close in handling. I will build it like the Michalak rudder I had on the
Frolic so it can swing up when not in use. Plenty of room on the transom
and I can adjust the swing ratio to match the outboards.
Jeff
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Cupp" <caj@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 12, 2002 8:47 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Wyo & Question?
> Jeff, what will you be using rope and chain or just chain for your
> anchoring. I don't know if you just read about the new UHMW. You
> could epoxy UHMW onto the rollers and it will last. I would cut the
> UHMW to size and put on the epoxy then clamp it on with heater hose
> clamps every half inch or even closer. it would be good to cover the
> clamps in Vaseline so they don't accidentally get epoxied on.
> Anything that doesn't have a wear surface you could paint with two
> part polyurethane paint. It last longer than any other type of paint.
> another suggestion is that you have copper or bronze plating put on.
> Most plating shops have to plate with copper or bronze before they
> plate with chrome. That makes it much less costly than people think.
>
> The only problem with epoxy is that unless you bag the steel pieces
> then small air pockets will form oxidation and actually force the
> epoxy coating to crack. That is the main purpose of bagging in the
> first place, to get rid of air bubbles.
>
> John
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> > Moving right along on the Wyo this week as I'm on vacation. Should
> get the side panels, transom and maybe the stern assembled yet this
> week.
> >
> > If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers,
> etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I
> know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and
> with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for
> the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before
> coating with epoxy.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers,The entire fishing fleet out here is build of steel. Most boats that
>etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I
>know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings
>and with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do
>for the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just
>before coating with epoxy.
work for a living are build of steel. Most working boats also have a
fair amount of rust on them. If you're going to use steel.
1) It's got to be really clean when you paint it.
2) You have to keep it painted or you can sit and watch the rust grow.
I don't think that epoxy would be much help on parts that rub
(pintles). Maybe build the parts then take them to a galvanizer.
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
week.
know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and
with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for
the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before
coating with epoxy.
so , go find a scap metal dealer in an industrial area where the do
some kind of steel fabrication . They will have lots of bits to suit
your needs. I bought AUS $25 worth of bits for the folding schooner
and used less than half. stick welding is a breeze , , The rods
cost about $1.00 each.
I have found that west and FRED both break off of SS
CHeers paul
> Moving right along on the Wyo this week as I'm on vacation. Shouldget the side panels, transom and maybe the stern assembled yet this
week.
>etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I
> If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers,
know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and
with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for
the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before
coating with epoxy.
>Jeff , I'm assuming your going to be doing the welding yourself? If
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
so , go find a scap metal dealer in an industrial area where the do
some kind of steel fabrication . They will have lots of bits to suit
your needs. I bought AUS $25 worth of bits for the folding schooner
and used less than half. stick welding is a breeze , , The rods
cost about $1.00 each.
I have found that west and FRED both break off of SS
CHeers paul
Better idea -- but maybe for freshwater. You can still buy that plastic grip stuff in a can. You dip hand tool handles in it to coat them . Buy a pint can and pour it into a plastic bucket with a lid, put parts in and shake it up. Take parts out and hang them up and let them drip in bucket. After drying do a second coat. Its really rubber !
CCG
Jeff Blunck wrote:Moving right along on the Wyo this week as I'm on vacation. Should get the side panels, transom and maybe the stern assembled yet this week.
If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers, etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before coating with epoxy.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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CCG
Jeff Blunck wrote:Moving right along on the Wyo this week as I'm on vacation. Should get the side panels, transom and maybe the stern assembled yet this week.
If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers, etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before coating with epoxy.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
week.
know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and
with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for
the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before
coating with epoxy.
I saw this navy guy interviewed, whose crew had the highest
efficiency rating of any US ship. They did one of those suggestion
box deals and discovered that an enormous time eater that everyone
hated was all the maintenance of metals and so forth. They refited
the boat at huge cost with all stainless or whatever fittings. Of
course if it had been a ship's load of boatbuilders, they might not
have been so fussy.
What do you need pintles for, doesn't the drive steer this thing?
Have a look over at Wharram for details, if you can find them on
their site. When he sailed accross the ocean in '57 (as described in
Two Girls, and Two Catamarans), he spent most of his time leaning
over the transoms repairing the broken rudder fittings (same deal in
one Piver Book). On a "never again" basis, he subsequently designed
a simple rudder mounting that consisted of stiching it on with cord.
Never breaks, and if it wears out, can be replaced for pennies. On
the other hand, you can't just pop it out either.
> Moving right along on the Wyo this week as I'm on vacation. Shouldget the side panels, transom and maybe the stern assembled yet this
week.
>etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I
> If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers,
know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and
with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for
the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before
coating with epoxy.
I saw this navy guy interviewed, whose crew had the highest
efficiency rating of any US ship. They did one of those suggestion
box deals and discovered that an enormous time eater that everyone
hated was all the maintenance of metals and so forth. They refited
the boat at huge cost with all stainless or whatever fittings. Of
course if it had been a ship's load of boatbuilders, they might not
have been so fussy.
What do you need pintles for, doesn't the drive steer this thing?
Have a look over at Wharram for details, if you can find them on
their site. When he sailed accross the ocean in '57 (as described in
Two Girls, and Two Catamarans), he spent most of his time leaning
over the transoms repairing the broken rudder fittings (same deal in
one Piver Book). On a "never again" basis, he subsequently designed
a simple rudder mounting that consisted of stiching it on with cord.
Never breaks, and if it wears out, can be replaced for pennies. On
the other hand, you can't just pop it out either.
Go to a chain link fence company or check Lowes in the chain link fence
department. I used a pair of hot dipped "J" hinges on my Summer Breeze. I
used the "female" hinges on the rudder. I just pull a bolt out to dismount
it.
Roger S
department. I used a pair of hot dipped "J" hinges on my Summer Breeze. I
used the "female" hinges on the rudder. I just pull a bolt out to dismount
it.
Roger S
>
> I would look at getting them hot-dip galvanised. Alternatively, you
> may be able to find heavy-duty gate hinges which are already
> galvanised. I bought some hinges for about US$10 for my daughter's
> dinghy when I discovered that "proper" gudgeons and pintles would
> cost me about US$50. <snip>
> --
> Bruce Fountain (fountainb@...)
> Senior Software Engineer
> Union Switch and Signal Pty Ltd
> Perth Western Australia
> tel: +618 9256 0083
Jeff, what will you be using rope and chain or just chain for your
anchoring. I don't know if you just read about the new UHMW. You
could epoxy UHMW onto the rollers and it will last. I would cut the
UHMW to size and put on the epoxy then clamp it on with heater hose
clamps every half inch or even closer. it would be good to cover the
clamps in Vaseline so they don't accidentally get epoxied on.
Anything that doesn't have a wear surface you could paint with two
part polyurethane paint. It last longer than any other type of paint.
another suggestion is that you have copper or bronze plating put on.
Most plating shops have to plate with copper or bronze before they
plate with chrome. That makes it much less costly than people think.
The only problem with epoxy is that unless you bag the steel pieces
then small air pockets will form oxidation and actually force the
epoxy coating to crack. That is the main purpose of bagging in the
first place, to get rid of air bubbles.
John
anchoring. I don't know if you just read about the new UHMW. You
could epoxy UHMW onto the rollers and it will last. I would cut the
UHMW to size and put on the epoxy then clamp it on with heater hose
clamps every half inch or even closer. it would be good to cover the
clamps in Vaseline so they don't accidentally get epoxied on.
Anything that doesn't have a wear surface you could paint with two
part polyurethane paint. It last longer than any other type of paint.
another suggestion is that you have copper or bronze plating put on.
Most plating shops have to plate with copper or bronze before they
plate with chrome. That makes it much less costly than people think.
The only problem with epoxy is that unless you bag the steel pieces
then small air pockets will form oxidation and actually force the
epoxy coating to crack. That is the main purpose of bagging in the
first place, to get rid of air bubbles.
John
--- In bolger@y..., "Jeff Blunck" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> Moving right along on the Wyo this week as I'm on vacation. Should
get the side panels, transom and maybe the stern assembled yet this
week.
>
> If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers,
etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I
know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and
with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for
the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before
coating with epoxy.
>
> Jeff
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Friday 13 September 2002 09:09, Jeff Blunck wrote:
may be able to find heavy-duty gate hinges which are already
galvanised. I bought some hinges for about US$10 for my daughter's
dinghy when I discovered that "proper" gudgeons and pintles would
cost me about US$50. These are massive overkill for an 8ft dinghy
- they are rated to support 1000kg a pair. They are built g&p style,
so you can still lift the rudder off the pintle.
--
Bruce Fountain (fountainb@...)
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch and Signal Pty Ltd
Perth Western Australia
tel: +618 9256 0083
> If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers, etc. fromI would look at getting them hot-dip galvanised. Alternatively, you
> steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I know lots of
> boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and with proper care
> work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for the corrosion resistance.
> Wiped with acetone or the like just before coating with epoxy.
may be able to find heavy-duty gate hinges which are already
galvanised. I bought some hinges for about US$10 for my daughter's
dinghy when I discovered that "proper" gudgeons and pintles would
cost me about US$50. These are massive overkill for an 8ft dinghy
- they are rated to support 1000kg a pair. They are built g&p style,
so you can still lift the rudder off the pintle.
--
Bruce Fountain (fountainb@...)
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch and Signal Pty Ltd
Perth Western Australia
tel: +618 9256 0083
Moving right along on the Wyo this week as I'm on vacation. Should get the side panels, transom and maybe the stern assembled yet this week.
If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers, etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before coating with epoxy.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
If a person was to build something like pintles, anchor rollers, etc. from steel and coated with epoxy and painted, would it work? I know lots of boats are built of steel and have all steel fittings and with proper care work fine. Just wondered what epoxy would do for the corrosion resistance. Wiped with acetone or the like just before coating with epoxy.
Jeff
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]