Re: Cold-Molded Construction + Aerolite Glue
Hi Bruce, the glue now sold in NZ is Aerolite 308, and is
manufactured here, though the originators are in Europe somewhere.
It is also typically expensive here, probably due to the small
captive market.
The technical director said you will be able to source an equivalent
in the USA. He suggested "Borden", the largest manufacturing group
there he said.
The glue you would be looking for is- melamine urea formaldahyde
It is labelled water resistant, but is fine for trailer boats. We
used it for Finn masts also, before epoxy and aluminium came along.
Another advantage apart from convenience for moulding and safety is
the colorless cured glue, for clear finishes.
Good luck,
DonB
manufactured here, though the originators are in Europe somewhere.
It is also typically expensive here, probably due to the small
captive market.
The technical director said you will be able to source an equivalent
in the USA. He suggested "Borden", the largest manufacturing group
there he said.
The glue you would be looking for is- melamine urea formaldahyde
It is labelled water resistant, but is fine for trailer boats. We
used it for Finn masts also, before epoxy and aluminium came along.
Another advantage apart from convenience for moulding and safety is
the colorless cured glue, for clear finishes.
Good luck,
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- "Harry W. James" wrote:
> > I have heard of using strapping tape to staple through
>
> Sounds like it would work.
>
> Thanks everyone, the process
> of cold-moulding is much clearer
> in my mind now.
>
> I have looked hard for a source
> for Aerolite glue online, and
> could not find one. Help??
>
> If you leave the stringers
> in the boat, as called for
> on Felucca, I imagine the
> mold ribs made from 3/4"
> shop plywood, spaced on a
> strong back every foot
> (or foot and a half.)
>
> These temporary ribs would
> be notched to accept the
> stringers/battens and special
> care would need to be taken
> so that the hull could be
> lifted from the plywood
> temporary ribs without binding.
>
> You would need a way to fasten
> the battens securely, and to
> remove them easily. How?
I have uploaded more design rules for planing boats.
Look in:
Bolger2: Files: Planing boat design rules: Drawing_Lines.jpeg
hal
Look in:
Bolger2: Files: Planing boat design rules: Drawing_Lines.jpeg
hal
McMasters has plastic pop rivets, using them is good idea. Looked at the
plastic nail site and they have greater strength than metal for pull
out, about 75% strength in sheer.
HJ
Nels wrote:
plastic nail site and they have greater strength than metal for pull
out, about 75% strength in sheer.
HJ
Nels wrote:
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> > Catch? Platic Nails? Could it be that they have the structural
> > strength of a stir stix? Pass the epoxy please!
>
> But Bruce, we only need them until the epoxy dries. But don't have to
> remove them after it does! And they don't rust...and you can sand the
> tops right off them if you want. I wonder if they make rivets as
> well? With them and cable ties you got everything you need except for
> maybe a few Kwik Klamps.
>
Bruce, I will check at my local building supply place, and get the
Aerolite manufactures details for you.
DonB
Aerolite manufactures details for you.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- "Harry W. James" wrote:
> > I have heard of using strapping tape to staple through
>
> Sounds like it would work.
>
> Thanks everyone, the process
> of cold-moulding is much clearer
> in my mind now.
>
> I have looked hard for a source
> for Aerolite glue online, and
> could not find one. Help??
>
> If you leave the stringers
> in the boat, as called for
> on Felucca, I imagine the
> mold ribs made from 3/4"
> shop plywood, spaced on a
> strong back every foot
> (or foot and a half.)
>
> These temporary ribs would
> be notched to accept the
> stringers/battens and special
> care would need to be taken
> so that the hull could be
> lifted from the plywood
> temporary ribs without binding.
>
> You would need a way to fasten
> the battens securely, and to
> remove them easily. How?
--- In bolger@y..., "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
remove them after it does! And they don't rust...and you can sand the
tops right off them if you want. I wonder if they make rivets as
well? With them and cable ties you got everything you need except for
maybe a few Kwik Klamps.
> Catch? Platic Nails? Could it be that they have the structuralBut Bruce, we only need them until the epoxy dries. But don't have to
> strength of a stir stix? Pass the epoxy please!
remove them after it does! And they don't rust...and you can sand the
tops right off them if you want. I wonder if they make rivets as
well? With them and cable ties you got everything you need except for
maybe a few Kwik Klamps.
Catch? Platic Nails? Could it be that they have the structural
strength of a stir stix? Pass the epoxy please!
strength of a stir stix? Pass the epoxy please!
CLC uses something like these when they cut multiple layers of ply on their
CNC machine. Saves the router bit when they hit one!
Paul
CNC machine. Saves the router bit when they hit one!
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 6:11 PM
Subject: [bolger] Plastic staples and nails
> Thanks David - These are really interesting. And there are nails
> available too! And they even come in different colors! And you can
> sand and saw right through them without damaging the tools. I wonder
> what the catch is? There has to be a catch! Has anyone tried them I
> wonder?
>
> Using the strapping tape idea sounds really ingenious as well.
> Nels
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> > Nels, you either use use close wire-cutters (dikes) or a small
> grinder,
> > or both. Nasty job, in my book. That's why the plastic staples
> sound
> > good, as they grind and sand like wood (no rust either!).
> >
> > David Romasco
> >
> ]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Nels, the catch is that you have to buy or rent their specially modified
air nailer or stapler to drive the fasteners.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 6:11 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Plastic staples and nails
Thanks David - These are really interesting. And there are nails
available too! And they even come in different colors! And you can
sand and saw right through them without damaging the tools. I wonder
what the catch is? There has to be a catch! Has anyone tried them I
wonder?
Using the strapping tape idea sounds really ingenious as well.
Nels
air nailer or stapler to drive the fasteners.
David
-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 6:11 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Plastic staples and nails
Thanks David - These are really interesting. And there are nails
available too! And they even come in different colors! And you can
sand and saw right through them without damaging the tools. I wonder
what the catch is? There has to be a catch! Has anyone tried them I
wonder?
Using the strapping tape idea sounds really ingenious as well.
Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> Nels, you either use use close wire-cutters (dikes) or a small
grinder,
> or both. Nasty job, in my book. That's why the plastic staples
sound
> good, as they grind and sand like wood (no rust either!).
>
> David Romasco
>
]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 9/23/02 3:25:09 PM Central Daylight Time,
oink@...writes:
cans in the days before "pop-tops". The point was sharpened with a blunt end,
with the bevel on what would be the "down" side when used to puncture beer
cans, which becomes the "up" side when used as a staple remover. The handle
has a nice curve in it near the business end that provides a good fulcrum and
smoothly distributes the load over the whole width of the handle. I believe
that I may have had to bend the angle of the business end a little bit to get
the optimal working angle, but I'm not sure about that. I don't have a
"vigin" "church-key" for comparison purposes. Works like a charm, or at least
better than any other tool I've tried for the purpose.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
oink@...writes:
> II have a cheap, stamped-steel "church-key", universally used to open beer
> used a sharp metal tool, like a triangular scraper to oik out the
> staples.
cans in the days before "pop-tops". The point was sharpened with a blunt end,
with the bevel on what would be the "down" side when used to puncture beer
cans, which becomes the "up" side when used as a staple remover. The handle
has a nice curve in it near the business end that provides a good fulcrum and
smoothly distributes the load over the whole width of the handle. I believe
that I may have had to bend the angle of the business end a little bit to get
the optimal working angle, but I'm not sure about that. I don't have a
"vigin" "church-key" for comparison purposes. Works like a charm, or at least
better than any other tool I've tried for the purpose.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bruce
I found a source in England (apparently it is made there) and emailed
them asking them for manufacturer info.
If they respond I will contact the manufacturer to see if it is imported
here and report back to the group then.
HJ
I found a source in England (apparently it is made there) and emailed
them asking them for manufacturer info.
If they respond I will contact the manufacturer to see if it is imported
here and report back to the group then.
HJ
>
> I have looked hard for a source
> for Aerolite glue online, and
> could not find one. Help??
>
Thanks David - These are really interesting. And there are nails
available too! And they even come in different colors! And you can
sand and saw right through them without damaging the tools. I wonder
what the catch is? There has to be a catch! Has anyone tried them I
wonder?
Using the strapping tape idea sounds really ingenious as well.
Nels
available too! And they even come in different colors! And you can
sand and saw right through them without damaging the tools. I wonder
what the catch is? There has to be a catch! Has anyone tried them I
wonder?
Using the strapping tape idea sounds really ingenious as well.
Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> Nels, you either use use close wire-cutters (dikes) or a small
grinder,
> or both. Nasty job, in my book. That's why the plastic staples
sound
> good, as they grind and sand like wood (no rust either!).
>
> David Romasco
>
]
I went looking for Aerolite a few years ago, and never did find an
inexpensive source for it. I ended up using T-88 for that project.
For the temp. ribs you might consider making them, then cutting down the
center to give 2 pieces, and then use screws to hold them together. Then
when it's time to remove them you remove the screws and cross straps and
pull out each half. I've never done this on a large project, but it has
worked well for me with fiberglass.
At 09:22 PM 9/23/2002 +0000, you wrote:
inexpensive source for it. I ended up using T-88 for that project.
For the temp. ribs you might consider making them, then cutting down the
center to give 2 pieces, and then use screws to hold them together. Then
when it's time to remove them you remove the screws and cross straps and
pull out each half. I've never done this on a large project, but it has
worked well for me with fiberglass.
At 09:22 PM 9/23/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>--- "Harry W. James" wrote:
> > I have heard of using strapping tape to staple through
>
>Sounds like it would work.
>
>Thanks everyone, the process
>of cold-moulding is much clearer
>in my mind now.
>
>I have looked hard for a source
>for Aerolite glue online, and
>could not find one. Help??
>
>If you leave the stringers
>in the boat, as called for
>on Felucca, I imagine the
>mold ribs made from 3/4"
>shop plywood, spaced on a
>strong back every foot
>(or foot and a half.)
>
>These temporary ribs would
>be notched to accept the
>stringers/battens and special
>care would need to be taken
>so that the hull could be
>lifted from the plywood
>temporary ribs without binding.
>
>You would need a way to fasten
>the battens securely, and to
>remove them easily. How?
>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- "Harry W. James" wrote:
Thanks everyone, the process
of cold-moulding is much clearer
in my mind now.
I have looked hard for a source
for Aerolite glue online, and
could not find one. Help??
If you leave the stringers
in the boat, as called for
on Felucca, I imagine the
mold ribs made from 3/4"
shop plywood, spaced on a
strong back every foot
(or foot and a half.)
These temporary ribs would
be notched to accept the
stringers/battens and special
care would need to be taken
so that the hull could be
lifted from the plywood
temporary ribs without binding.
You would need a way to fasten
the battens securely, and to
remove them easily. How?
> I have heard of using strapping tape to staple throughSounds like it would work.
Thanks everyone, the process
of cold-moulding is much clearer
in my mind now.
I have looked hard for a source
for Aerolite glue online, and
could not find one. Help??
If you leave the stringers
in the boat, as called for
on Felucca, I imagine the
mold ribs made from 3/4"
shop plywood, spaced on a
strong back every foot
(or foot and a half.)
These temporary ribs would
be notched to accept the
stringers/battens and special
care would need to be taken
so that the hull could be
lifted from the plywood
temporary ribs without binding.
You would need a way to fasten
the battens securely, and to
remove them easily. How?
I have heard of using strapping tape to staple through, those nylon
threads allow you to pull out the staple with the tape. No experience
with whether it works or not, just book knowledge.
HJ
dbaldnz wrote:
threads allow you to pull out the staple with the tape. No experience
with whether it works or not, just book knowledge.
HJ
dbaldnz wrote:
>
> Nels, you remove the staples which will be under the next strip of
> the 2nd layer as you go. So many staples are needed, that the first
> layer will not come free when this is done over a small area. I
> used a sharp metal tool, like a triangular scraper to oik out the
> staples. This is where a strip of cardboard or plastic under the
> staple is essential, to avoid damage to the veneer.
> DonB
> ---
Maybe for the first few strips. But I don't like ibuprofen and ice so
much that I'd want to tackle a whole boat that way. (From someone who
at this point wouldn't even consider cold molding as it is
incompatible with my motivation +/or discipline level.)
much that I'd want to tackle a whole boat that way. (From someone who
at this point wouldn't even consider cold molding as it is
incompatible with my motivation +/or discipline level.)
--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> An air compressor would be nice, but for veneers you only need a
> hand powered stapler, a heavier duty version of your office stapler.
> DonB
> --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
snip
> > I can imagine staples to the stringers
> > but I will need an air compressor <g>.
> >
snip
OK thanks Don, for your patience. Sorry I got off track but I just
couldn't visualize the process... Cheers, Nels
couldn't visualize the process... Cheers, Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
>
> Nels, you remove the staples which will be under the next strip of
> the 2nd layer as you go. So many staples are needed, that the first
> layer will not come free when this is done over a small area. I
> used a sharp metal tool, like a triangular scraper to oik out the
> staples. This is where a strip of cardboard or plastic under the
> staple is essential, to avoid damage to the veneer.
> DonB
I forgot one major cost saving, when refuting the "gold Plate" image
of home built CM.
You can sell your mould afterwards. I sold both moulds which paid
for the veneers.
DonB
of home built CM.
You can sell your mould afterwards. I sold both moulds which paid
for the veneers.
DonB
Nels, you remove the staples which will be under the next strip of
the 2nd layer as you go. So many staples are needed, that the first
layer will not come free when this is done over a small area. I
used a sharp metal tool, like a triangular scraper to oik out the
staples. This is where a strip of cardboard or plastic under the
staple is essential, to avoid damage to the veneer.
DonB
the 2nd layer as you go. So many staples are needed, that the first
layer will not come free when this is done over a small area. I
used a sharp metal tool, like a triangular scraper to oik out the
staples. This is where a strip of cardboard or plastic under the
staple is essential, to avoid damage to the veneer.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "Nels" <arvent@h...> wrote:
> Hi Peter
> The first layer of veneer is held to the mold with staples. Then
the
> second layer is glued and stapled to the first layer. When the
glue
> is hardened fully, the staples are then removed. My question:
>
> How do you remove the staples from the first layer, that are
firmly
> embedded in the mold and covered by the second layer?
>
> Nels
> --- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> > --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > How do you hold the first
> > > layer of veneer to the
> > > mold?
> >
> > Bruce,
> > As David says,staples.However,in case you meant to what do
I
> > fasten the veneers to the answer is battens,laid fore and aft
over
> > your perfectly faired mold sections,and placed such so as to
> support
> > the veneers well throughout their respective curve.
> >
> > Peter Lenihan
--- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
Does that mean you have to tear the mold apart to get at the staples
and then grind them down? In which case the mold is not reusable then?
> Nels, you either use use close wire-cutters (dikes) or a smallgrinder,
> or both. Nasty job, in my book. That's why the plastic staplessound
> good, as they grind and sand like wood (no rust either!).Thanks,
>
Does that mean you have to tear the mold apart to get at the staples
and then grind them down? In which case the mold is not reusable then?
Apparently, Dean has stopped doing veneers for boatbuilding.
Paul
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry W. James" <welshman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
> Where is Dean Hardwoods located and I wonder if you could send them wood
> to be made into veneers?
>
> HJ
>
> "Paul W. Esterle" wrote:
> >
> > Man, I wouldn't even THINK about re-sawing enough veneer for a CM boat.
Dean
> > Hardwoods can slice the stuff faster and cheaper than we can re-saw.
> > Remember, the veneer slicing process has no kerf and is automated.
> >
> > Paul
> > ----- Original Message -----
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
The first layer goes on a 45 degree angle one way. The second goes on at a
45 the other way. You only remove the staples the width of the new piece
going on. That way the hull is still firmly attached to the mold before and
after the strip being put on...
Paul
45 the other way. You only remove the staples the width of the new piece
going on. That way the hull is still firmly attached to the mold before and
after the strip being put on...
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Nels" <arvent@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 2:52 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
> Hi Peter
> The first layer of veneer is held to the mold with staples. Then the
> second layer is glued and stapled to the first layer. When the glue
> is hardened fully, the staples are then removed. My question:
>
> How do you remove the staples from the first layer, that are firmly
> embedded in the mold and covered by the second layer?
>
> Nels
> --- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> > --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > How do you hold the first
> > > layer of veneer to the
> > > mold?
> >
> > Bruce,
> > As David says,staples.However,in case you meant to what do I
> > fasten the veneers to the answer is battens,laid fore and aft over
> > your perfectly faired mold sections,and placed such so as to
> support
> > the veneers well throughout their respective curve.
> >
> > Peter Lenihan
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
An air compressor would be nice, but for veneers you only need a
hand powered stapler, a heavier duty version of your office stapler.
DonB
hand powered stapler, a heavier duty version of your office stapler.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- "Peter Lenihan" ...> wrote:
> > As David says,staples. However,in
> > case you meant to what do I
> > fasten the veneers to the answer
> > is battens,laid fore and aft...
>
> I was confused, coming from not
> comprehending what PCB was writing.
> He describes being of "two minds"
> about going 'boneless' or 'with
> stringers'.
>
> PCB:
> "I'm still of two minds about
> whether it was smart to use the
> stringer construction rather
> than to go "boneless," that
> is, to leave the stringers on
> the building jig instead of
> in the boat. Structural stringers
> allow the boat to be lighter,
> which is a tremendous advantage
> for hauling a beach cruiser up
> the shore. The visual effect
> is quite nice, too. But they're
> a terrible nuisance when you're
> trying to keep her clean and dry,
> and the thinner skin can be a
> drawback if you happen to hit
> a rock between stringers."
>
> I can imagine staples to the stringers
> but I will need an air compressor <g>.
>
> The strips of veneers must each need
> to be spiled (sp?), THAT sounds like
> a lot of work! With practice, I suppose
> one could do it 'by eye' with a box
> cutter.
>
> I can't imagine an easy way to leave
> the stringers with the mold, 'boneless'
> as PCB puts it, and that is(was) my
> question: How to fasten the first layer
> of veneer if going 'boneless'?
There was an article in Wooden boat when cold molding was first hitting
the mainstream. The article was about using a standard width strip, you
would put down every other strip and then go back with a router on a jig
set at the standard width and the depth just right and even up the
spaces and fill them up with the standard strip. This would get you away
from having to spile strips.
I hope that was clear. I don't communicate as well with out pictures as
well as some of the members.
HJ
the mainstream. The article was about using a standard width strip, you
would put down every other strip and then go back with a router on a jig
set at the standard width and the depth just right and even up the
spaces and fill them up with the standard strip. This would get you away
from having to spile strips.
I hope that was clear. I don't communicate as well with out pictures as
well as some of the members.
>I was wondering about that my self.
> I can imagine staples to the stringers
> but I will need an air compressor <g>.
>
> The strips of veneers must each need
> to be spiled (sp?), THAT sounds like
> a lot of work! With practice, I suppose
> one could do it 'by eye' with a box
> cutter.
HJ
>
> I can't imagine an easy way to leave
> the stringers with the mold, 'boneless'
> as PCB puts it, and that is(was) my
> question: How to fasten the first layer
> of veneer if going 'boneless'?
>
> -
Nels, you either use use close wire-cutters (dikes) or a small grinder,
or both. Nasty job, in my book. That's why the plastic staples sound
good, as they grind and sand like wood (no rust either!).
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 2:53 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
Hi Peter
The first layer of veneer is held to the mold with staples. Then the
second layer is glued and stapled to the first layer. When the glue
is hardened fully, the staples are then removed. My question:
How do you remove the staples from the first layer, that are firmly
embedded in the mold and covered by the second layer?
Nels
or both. Nasty job, in my book. That's why the plastic staples sound
good, as they grind and sand like wood (no rust either!).
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Nels [mailto:arvent@...]
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 2:53 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
Hi Peter
The first layer of veneer is held to the mold with staples. Then the
second layer is glued and stapled to the first layer. When the glue
is hardened fully, the staples are then removed. My question:
How do you remove the staples from the first layer, that are firmly
embedded in the mold and covered by the second layer?
Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> >
> > How do you hold the first
> > layer of veneer to the
> > mold?
>
> Bruce,
> As David says,staples.However,in case you meant to what do I
> fasten the veneers to the answer is battens,laid fore and aft over
> your perfectly faired mold sections,and placed such so as to
support
> the veneers well throughout their respective curve.
>
> Peter Lenihan
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=233214.2377745.3805144.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1227861/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/linker.ts?ts=1;2;312;
3_2_11>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=233214.2377745.3805144.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1227861/rand=482654972>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Peter
The first layer of veneer is held to the mold with staples. Then the
second layer is glued and stapled to the first layer. When the glue
is hardened fully, the staples are then removed. My question:
How do you remove the staples from the first layer, that are firmly
embedded in the mold and covered by the second layer?
Nels
The first layer of veneer is held to the mold with staples. Then the
second layer is glued and stapled to the first layer. When the glue
is hardened fully, the staples are then removed. My question:
How do you remove the staples from the first layer, that are firmly
embedded in the mold and covered by the second layer?
Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> >
> > How do you hold the first
> > layer of veneer to the
> > mold?
>
> Bruce,
> As David says,staples.However,in case you meant to what do I
> fasten the veneers to the answer is battens,laid fore and aft over
> your perfectly faired mold sections,and placed such so as to
support
> the veneers well throughout their respective curve.
>
> Peter Lenihan
--- "Peter Lenihan" ...> wrote:
comprehending what PCB was writing.
He describes being of "two minds"
about going 'boneless' or 'with
stringers'.
PCB:
"I'm still of two minds about
whether it was smart to use the
stringer construction rather
than to go "boneless," that
is, to leave the stringers on
the building jig instead of
in the boat. Structural stringers
allow the boat to be lighter,
which is a tremendous advantage
for hauling a beach cruiser up
the shore. The visual effect
is quite nice, too. But they're
a terrible nuisance when you're
trying to keep her clean and dry,
and the thinner skin can be a
drawback if you happen to hit
a rock between stringers."
I can imagine staples to the stringers
but I will need an air compressor <g>.
The strips of veneers must each need
to be spiled (sp?), THAT sounds like
a lot of work! With practice, I suppose
one could do it 'by eye' with a box
cutter.
I can't imagine an easy way to leave
the stringers with the mold, 'boneless'
as PCB puts it, and that is(was) my
question: How to fasten the first layer
of veneer if going 'boneless'?
> As David says,staples. However,inI was confused, coming from not
> case you meant to what do I
> fasten the veneers to the answer
> is battens,laid fore and aft...
comprehending what PCB was writing.
He describes being of "two minds"
about going 'boneless' or 'with
stringers'.
PCB:
"I'm still of two minds about
whether it was smart to use the
stringer construction rather
than to go "boneless," that
is, to leave the stringers on
the building jig instead of
in the boat. Structural stringers
allow the boat to be lighter,
which is a tremendous advantage
for hauling a beach cruiser up
the shore. The visual effect
is quite nice, too. But they're
a terrible nuisance when you're
trying to keep her clean and dry,
and the thinner skin can be a
drawback if you happen to hit
a rock between stringers."
I can imagine staples to the stringers
but I will need an air compressor <g>.
The strips of veneers must each need
to be spiled (sp?), THAT sounds like
a lot of work! With practice, I suppose
one could do it 'by eye' with a box
cutter.
I can't imagine an easy way to leave
the stringers with the mold, 'boneless'
as PCB puts it, and that is(was) my
question: How to fasten the first layer
of veneer if going 'boneless'?
Where is Dean Hardwoods located and I wonder if you could send them wood
to be made into veneers?
HJ
"Paul W. Esterle" wrote:
to be made into veneers?
HJ
"Paul W. Esterle" wrote:
>
> Man, I wouldn't even THINK about re-sawing enough veneer for a CM boat. Dean
> Hardwoods can slice the stuff faster and cheaper than we can re-saw.
> Remember, the veneer slicing process has no kerf and is automated.
>
> Paul
> ----- Original Message -----
>
Now, just to stir the proverbial pot, here's a manufacturer of
non-metallic nails and staples which are perfect for cold-molded
construction:
http://www.raptornails.com/
I've seen their stuff at industry shows, and it's pretty slick although
you do have to use their modified guns.
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 12:31 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
non-metallic nails and staples which are perfect for cold-molded
construction:
http://www.raptornails.com/
I've seen their stuff at industry shows, and it's pretty slick although
you do have to use their modified guns.
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 12:31 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
>
> How do you hold the first
> layer of veneer to the
> mold?
Bruce,
As David says,staples.However,in case you meant to what do I
fasten the veneers to the answer is battens,laid fore and aft over
your perfectly faired mold sections,and placed such so as to support
the veneers well throughout their respective curve.
Peter Lenihan
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=229441.2397090.3822005.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1189558/R=0/*http://www.bmgmusic.com/acq/ee/q6/enroll/mhn/9/
>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=229441.2397090.3822005.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1189558/rand=315310343>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
As David says,staples.However,in case you meant to what do I
fasten the veneers to the answer is battens,laid fore and aft over
your perfectly faired mold sections,and placed such so as to support
the veneers well throughout their respective curve.
Peter Lenihan
>Bruce,
> How do you hold the first
> layer of veneer to the
> mold?
As David says,staples.However,in case you meant to what do I
fasten the veneers to the answer is battens,laid fore and aft over
your perfectly faired mold sections,and placed such so as to support
the veneers well throughout their respective curve.
Peter Lenihan
Staples, Bruce; lots of staples....
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: brucehallman [mailto:brucehallman@...]
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 10:30 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
--- "Peter Lenihan" wrote:
layer of veneer to the
mold?
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=233214.2377745.3805144.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1227861/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/linker.ts?ts=1;2;312;
3_2_11>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=233214.2377745.3805144.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1227861/rand=873252177>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: brucehallman [mailto:brucehallman@...]
Sent: Monday, September 23, 2002 10:30 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
--- "Peter Lenihan" wrote:
> Your jig or mold must be asHow do you hold the first
> perfect as you can make it.
> ...then,once you begin to
> lay the veneers...
layer of veneer to the
mold?
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=233214.2377745.3805144.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1227861/R=0/*http://ads.track-star.com/linker.ts?ts=1;2;312;
3_2_11>
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=233214.2377745.3805144.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1227861/rand=873252177>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- "Peter Lenihan" wrote:
layer of veneer to the
mold?
> Your jig or mold must be asHow do you hold the first
> perfect as you can make it.
> ...then,once you begin to
> lay the veneers...
layer of veneer to the
mold?
> And, care to guess why PCBIn recent years we have seen strip planking's star ascend. But
> thinks it is the 'best of
> all'?
around '84, when Moxie a CM boat won the Ostar, it was one way to
have the same kind of shape control one gets with glass, while having
all the superior performance of wood, with decent longevity if light
maintenance is attended to. In fact it was possibly the best
performing system until carbon became cheap enough for some budgets
in the 90s. Rogue Wave which was made before Moxie, but ruled out,
was a version of the ill fated Gulf Streamer. I don't remember the
details, but RW was significantly lighter than GS, while stiffer
under headstay loads. Nice deal for wood.
There is a CM Chebacco, so Bolger is still messing around with it in
more recent times.
--- In bolger@y..., "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...> wrote:
material at descent cost. That isn't a problem everywhere, but it is
for me.
> Man, I wouldn't even THINK about re-sawing enough veneer for a CMboat. Dean
> Hardwoods can slice the stuff faster and cheaper than we can re-saw.anymore... To me the big problem with CM is the absence of reliable
> Remember, the veneer slicing process has no kerf and is automated.
>
>
> And according to their guys, they aren't in the business
material at descent cost. That isn't a problem everywhere, but it is
for me.
> that Parker knows more about boatbuilding than I ever will, but itis not
> obvious to me what advantage is realized by sheathing the strip-built hull
> with plywood strips that couldn't be perhaps more easily berealized by using
> suitable fabric and epoxy. (Which he uses on top of the plywoodlayer in any
> event!)I am not totally convinced about his method either. But basicaly he
is making tough boats with significant scantlings. Glass is
stretchier that longi wood, so adding glass to wood isn't a great
deal. It is good in terms of transverse strength (over strip as we
all know, because what isn't stiffer than crossgrain wood?), but it
would take a costly and heavy slug of the stuff to get to where you
can go cheaply with several layers of plywood, and glass might
require quite a bit of itchy fairing.
It was an article of faith so Meade Gougeon says (I missed this
myself, possibly because of the size of boats I work on) that
diagonal layers were necesary to help resist racking or something.
So struturaly there is something happening, that a 0-90 glass
alignment, even if it had the stiffness, doesn't provide. Though 0-
90 kind of rules again.
The Xynole he prefers would not be a good choice for adding
structure, but he uses it to toughen the outside of the hull, which
it does well by all accounts.
Right on Peter!
Newick has a master mold system, where all the molds follow one
pattern. Once that pattern is fair, you can trace all the others off
it, and possibly use a bearing bit to fair them all. Almost all this
stuff was worked out during the war, when wooden plane building was
at it's Zenyth. The US Government still has many of the manuals
available for sale at it's printing office. The air stapler was
invented for the Goose, I read somewhere. This stuff has been around
for 60 or more years, it's almost traditional boatbuilding, and
predates synth. rubber, plastic and so forth.
But hey let's just keep the impossibility myth moving along...
Newick has a master mold system, where all the molds follow one
pattern. Once that pattern is fair, you can trace all the others off
it, and possibly use a bearing bit to fair them all. Almost all this
stuff was worked out during the war, when wooden plane building was
at it's Zenyth. The US Government still has many of the manuals
available for sale at it's printing office. The air stapler was
invented for the Goose, I read somewhere. This stuff has been around
for 60 or more years, it's almost traditional boatbuilding, and
predates synth. rubber, plastic and so forth.
But hey let's just keep the impossibility myth moving along...
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
grain also. All I meant was that the uninterupted strips beneath
bridge over the gaps above like a butt block, and in most cases, the
weakness of discontinutity only rarely falls on a seam (often
numericaly), but a miniscule proportion of the surface area. Like
complaining about screw holes in a plank on frame hull. The only
reason for using ply is that one 1/8" sheet contains 96 square feet
of veneer, which if purchased at a rate of 1-2 dollars or more as is
typical, would cost a lot more than the ply. 10 years ago I could
get really beautiful WRC veneer for 20-40 cents a square foot. Now
it is about 2 dollars when I can find it at all.
> I don't know what you mean about seams and butt blocks. I was justlayers
> pointing out that the wood that is cross grain in the strips isn't
> going to add much strength as any stresses on the cross grain
> are only transferred by end grain glue joints to the cross grain instrength
> the adjacent strip. Solid strips will be a lot stronger, tho
> may still be adequate. Seems like if one had a really good saw itThat would certainly be preferable, and you would have sealed end
> would be possible to cut strips out of solid lumber.
grain also. All I meant was that the uninterupted strips beneath
bridge over the gaps above like a butt block, and in most cases, the
weakness of discontinutity only rarely falls on a seam (often
numericaly), but a miniscule proportion of the surface area. Like
complaining about screw holes in a plank on frame hull. The only
reason for using ply is that one 1/8" sheet contains 96 square feet
of veneer, which if purchased at a rate of 1-2 dollars or more as is
typical, would cost a lot more than the ply. 10 years ago I could
get really beautiful WRC veneer for 20-40 cents a square foot. Now
it is about 2 dollars when I can find it at all.
Man, I wouldn't even THINK about re-sawing enough veneer for a CM boat. Dean
Hardwoods can slice the stuff faster and cheaper than we can re-saw.
Remember, the veneer slicing process has no kerf and is automated.
Paul
Hardwoods can slice the stuff faster and cheaper than we can re-saw.
Remember, the veneer slicing process has no kerf and is automated.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 8:40 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
> I don't know what you mean about seams and butt blocks. I was just
> pointing out that the wood that is cross grain in the strips isn't
> going to add much strength as any stresses on the cross grain layers
> are only transferred by end grain glue joints to the cross grain in
> the adjacent strip. Solid strips will be a lot stronger, tho strength
> may still be adequate. Seems like if one had a really good saw it
> would be possible to cut strips out of solid lumber.
> --- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> > --- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> > > I think in this case we were talking about cutting into strips,
> not
> > > gluing two sheets. Of course the cross grain bits wouldn't do much
> > for
> > > strength.
> >
> > Well they will only occasionaly hit seams at points where they
> aren't
> > sort of butt blocked out. Since with CM you get redundancy of
> > multiple layers, arch effect, ability to lay up thicker hulls for
> > unit of bend, experience shows you needn't worry. Also, a lot of
> > these boats are DDed over a bed of strips, like a solid wall of
> > stringers.
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
John
I would be very interested in a dishwasher test.
HJ
John Cupp wrote:
I would be very interested in a dishwasher test.
HJ
John Cupp wrote:
>
> There is a store in Klamath Falls, OR. called Cashway Plywood that
> carries what I think your talking about in 4'X 8'X 1/8" sheets. I had
> a room in my cabin that was a horrible almost black barn wood so I
> bought 7 of those sheets with very baeuitiful mahogany veneer that I
> put Varithane on to make a stunning wall. It does not have the
> typical scored vertical lines as in paneling and it has three plys. I
> have some scrap that I have not yet put into a dishwasher.
I recently bought some 1/8 door skins to experiment with here from my
local builders store here in Juneau, They had to order it special but it
was very inexpensive (by Alaska standards) at around $10 a cheet for 3/7
sheets. If you no longer have a non chain that caters to contractors
store in your area, find out if HD has a contractors desk for special
orders.
HJ
"Paul W. Esterle" wrote:
local builders store here in Juneau, They had to order it special but it
was very inexpensive (by Alaska standards) at around $10 a cheet for 3/7
sheets. If you no longer have a non chain that caters to contractors
store in your area, find out if HD has a contractors desk for special
orders.
HJ
"Paul W. Esterle" wrote:
>
> Home Depot, at least around here, used to carry 1/8" exterior doorskins.
> They were not luan but something a little harder, maybe some type of birch.
> They were less than 4 x 8, as befits a "doorskin". It was fairly cheap and I
> bought a sheet just to try it out. Now that I've used it up on some
> stitch-n-glue dorade boxes and few other things, HD no longer seems to stock
> it!
>
In a message dated 9/22/02 10:33:35 AM Central Daylight Time,
pesterle@...writes:
tongue-and-groove planks rather than bead-and-cove or individually spiled
strips. Then he sheaths the resulting hull in diagonal plywood strips. I know
that Parker knows more about boatbuilding than I ever will, but it is not
obvious to me what advantage is realized by sheathing the strip-built hull
with plywood strips that couldn't be perhaps more easily be realized by using
suitable fabric and epoxy. (Which he uses on top of the plywood layer in any
event!)
His strip-built hull provides the "mold" for the "cold-molded" layers and is
incorporated into the finished hull, so the "mold" is not "wasted" in one-off
production, compared to molding veneers over forms & ribands in more
"conventional" cold-molded construction.
I do not want anyone to think that I am being critical of Parker's technique.
There are probably a number of carefully judged trade-offs in his choice of
construction method.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
pesterle@...writes:
> You guys need to read Reuel Parker's book "New Cold-Molded Boatbuilding"I have the book. Basically, he builds a strip-built hull, using
>
tongue-and-groove planks rather than bead-and-cove or individually spiled
strips. Then he sheaths the resulting hull in diagonal plywood strips. I know
that Parker knows more about boatbuilding than I ever will, but it is not
obvious to me what advantage is realized by sheathing the strip-built hull
with plywood strips that couldn't be perhaps more easily be realized by using
suitable fabric and epoxy. (Which he uses on top of the plywood layer in any
event!)
His strip-built hull provides the "mold" for the "cold-molded" layers and is
incorporated into the finished hull, so the "mold" is not "wasted" in one-off
production, compared to molding veneers over forms & ribands in more
"conventional" cold-molded construction.
I do not want anyone to think that I am being critical of Parker's technique.
There are probably a number of carefully judged trade-offs in his choice of
construction method.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
The saying that "preparation is everything" really applies for
cold molding.Your jig or mold must be as perfect as you can make
it.Try and do all your sanding and shaving to the mold......even if
it takes a week......then,once you begin to lay the veneers,the
fairness will amaze you.In the end,you should be only sanding the
little bits of woodchips around the now removed staple holes along
with some epoxy squeeze out.
To keep the work on the mold to a reasonable level,take the time
to properly loft your boat full size.Again,it will pay off big time
if you insist on sticking to it until every line is fair,not only as
a curve but also in relation to its neighbor.This is the easiest and
least expensive part of boatbuilding.Take the time to get it right
and do keep your pencil sharp !
Good Luck!
Peter Lenihan,eager to see what you will build next!
> Cold molding question:Bruce,
>
> How does one 'fair' the surface?
> I imagine using a belt sander
> and Bondo filler putty...???
The saying that "preparation is everything" really applies for
cold molding.Your jig or mold must be as perfect as you can make
it.Try and do all your sanding and shaving to the mold......even if
it takes a week......then,once you begin to lay the veneers,the
fairness will amaze you.In the end,you should be only sanding the
little bits of woodchips around the now removed staple holes along
with some epoxy squeeze out.
To keep the work on the mold to a reasonable level,take the time
to properly loft your boat full size.Again,it will pay off big time
if you insist on sticking to it until every line is fair,not only as
a curve but also in relation to its neighbor.This is the easiest and
least expensive part of boatbuilding.Take the time to get it right
and do keep your pencil sharp !
Good Luck!
Peter Lenihan,eager to see what you will build next!
--- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
That is the type of plywood
I used on my Spur II.
It didn't seem like junk wood
either. Much better than the
domestic cheap plywood. Virtually
no voids, and the label claimed
to use 'exterior' glue. Most of
the wood was in the inner
of the three plys.
A triple layer, at 60 degree angle
bias, would be a very strong assembly.
Cold molding question:
How does one 'fair' the surface?
I imagine using a belt sander
and Bondo filler putty...???
> How long are those 1/8 inch skins ? Just door size?4 feet x 8 feet by 1/8".
That is the type of plywood
I used on my Spur II.
It didn't seem like junk wood
either. Much better than the
domestic cheap plywood. Virtually
no voids, and the label claimed
to use 'exterior' glue. Most of
the wood was in the inner
of the three plys.
A triple layer, at 60 degree angle
bias, would be a very strong assembly.
Cold molding question:
How does one 'fair' the surface?
I imagine using a belt sander
and Bondo filler putty...???
I don't know what you mean about seams and butt blocks. I was just
pointing out that the wood that is cross grain in the strips isn't
going to add much strength as any stresses on the cross grain layers
are only transferred by end grain glue joints to the cross grain in
the adjacent strip. Solid strips will be a lot stronger, tho strength
may still be adequate. Seems like if one had a really good saw it
would be possible to cut strips out of solid lumber.
pointing out that the wood that is cross grain in the strips isn't
going to add much strength as any stresses on the cross grain layers
are only transferred by end grain glue joints to the cross grain in
the adjacent strip. Solid strips will be a lot stronger, tho strength
may still be adequate. Seems like if one had a really good saw it
would be possible to cut strips out of solid lumber.
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> --- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> > I think in this case we were talking about cutting into strips,
not
> > gluing two sheets. Of course the cross grain bits wouldn't do much
> for
> > strength.
>
> Well they will only occasionaly hit seams at points where they
aren't
> sort of butt blocked out. Since with CM you get redundancy of
> multiple layers, arch effect, ability to lay up thicker hulls for
> unit of bend, experience shows you needn't worry. Also, a lot of
> these boats are DDed over a bed of strips, like a solid wall of
> stringers.
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
sort of butt blocked out. Since with CM you get redundancy of
multiple layers, arch effect, ability to lay up thicker hulls for
unit of bend, experience shows you needn't worry. Also, a lot of
these boats are DDed over a bed of strips, like a solid wall of
stringers.
> I think in this case we were talking about cutting into strips, notfor
> gluing two sheets. Of course the cross grain bits wouldn't do much
> strength.Well they will only occasionaly hit seams at points where they aren't
sort of butt blocked out. Since with CM you get redundancy of
multiple layers, arch effect, ability to lay up thicker hulls for
unit of bend, experience shows you needn't worry. Also, a lot of
these boats are DDed over a bed of strips, like a solid wall of
stringers.
The reasons for using layers of 1/8, is that the quality is higher,
or you need prebend, or you are spilling and applying it double
diagonal style. Unless you can be sure of a perfect construction,
storage and maintenace record, ensure you get phenolic glue.
or you need prebend, or you are spilling and applying it double
diagonal style. Unless you can be sure of a perfect construction,
storage and maintenace record, ensure you get phenolic glue.
--- In bolger@y..., "John Cupp" <caj@k...> wrote:
> There is a store in Klamath Falls, OR. called Cashway Plywood that
> carries what I think your talking about in 4'X 8'X 1/8" sheets. I
had
> a room in my cabin that was a horrible almost black barn wood so I
> bought 7 of those sheets with very baeuitiful mahogany veneer that
I
> put Varithane on to make a stunning wall. It does not have the
> typical scored vertical lines as in paneling and it has three plys.
I
> have some scrap that I have not yet put into a dishwasher. I cannot
> see the logistics though of using two sheets epoxied together. In
> Febuary of 2001 when I bought the sheets they were $5.60 each..
That
> was shortly before my accident and I haven't finished the project.
> The manager assured me that he always keeps the same product in
> stock. I know for a fact that they do give discount pricing since I
> have built a few houses and have purchased all my plywood there
since
> they have always been least expensive even without the volume
> purchase discount. If anyone is interested I can call about the
> price of marine 1/4" plywood.
>
> John
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
> >
> > How long are those 1/8 inch skins ? Just door size?
> > CCG
> > Lincoln Ross
> > wrote:That depends on the luan. I seem to recall 5.2mm and 5.5mm,
> but there
> > are also 1/8" luan doorskins. I haven't seen them other than on
> doors,
> > but I've seen advertising for them.
> > --- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Luaun plywood is 5mm almost 1/4 in.
> > > CCG
> > > brucehallman
> > > wrote:--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > > > 2 skins of 3/16" pine.
> > >
> > > So, that means I could use
> > > the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
> > > they sell at Home Depot for
> > > $8 a 4'x8' sheet.
> > >
> > > How do you hold the veneer
> > > in place while the glue sets?
> > >
> > >
> > > Do you use thickened epoxy?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip>
> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester,
> MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
> Service.
> >
> >
> >
> > ---------------------------------
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You guys need to read Reuel Parker's book "New Cold-Molded Boatbuilding"
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1860702701&rd=
1
To see how he uses plywood strips for cold-molding. (also have a copy of
Bolger's "Schorpioen": at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1862743846&rd=
1
(URLs wrap, you'll need to cut & paste)
Paul
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1860702701&rd=
1
To see how he uses plywood strips for cold-molding. (also have a copy of
Bolger's "Schorpioen": at:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1862743846&rd=
1
(URLs wrap, you'll need to cut & paste)
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 22, 2002 10:59 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
> I think in this case we were talking about cutting into strips, not
> gluing two sheets. Of course the cross grain bits wouldn't do much for
> strength.
> --- In bolger@y..., "John Cupp" <caj@k...> wrote:
> snip 4'X 8'X 1/8" sheetssnip I cannot
> > see the logistics though of using two sheets epoxied together.
> snip
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I think in this case we were talking about cutting into strips, not
gluing two sheets. Of course the cross grain bits wouldn't do much for
strength.
gluing two sheets. Of course the cross grain bits wouldn't do much for
strength.
--- In bolger@y..., "John Cupp" <caj@k...> wrote:
snip 4'X 8'X 1/8" sheetssnip I cannot
> see the logistics though of using two sheets epoxied together.
snip
There is a store in Klamath Falls, OR. called Cashway Plywood that
carries what I think your talking about in 4'X 8'X 1/8" sheets. I had
a room in my cabin that was a horrible almost black barn wood so I
bought 7 of those sheets with very baeuitiful mahogany veneer that I
put Varithane on to make a stunning wall. It does not have the
typical scored vertical lines as in paneling and it has three plys. I
have some scrap that I have not yet put into a dishwasher. I cannot
see the logistics though of using two sheets epoxied together. In
Febuary of 2001 when I bought the sheets they were $5.60 each.. That
was shortly before my accident and I haven't finished the project.
The manager assured me that he always keeps the same product in
stock. I know for a fact that they do give discount pricing since I
have built a few houses and have purchased all my plywood there since
they have always been least expensive even without the volume
purchase discount. If anyone is interested I can call about the
price of marine 1/4" plywood.
John
carries what I think your talking about in 4'X 8'X 1/8" sheets. I had
a room in my cabin that was a horrible almost black barn wood so I
bought 7 of those sheets with very baeuitiful mahogany veneer that I
put Varithane on to make a stunning wall. It does not have the
typical scored vertical lines as in paneling and it has three plys. I
have some scrap that I have not yet put into a dishwasher. I cannot
see the logistics though of using two sheets epoxied together. In
Febuary of 2001 when I bought the sheets they were $5.60 each.. That
was shortly before my accident and I haven't finished the project.
The manager assured me that he always keeps the same product in
stock. I know for a fact that they do give discount pricing since I
have built a few houses and have purchased all my plywood there since
they have always been least expensive even without the volume
purchase discount. If anyone is interested I can call about the
price of marine 1/4" plywood.
John
--- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
>
> How long are those 1/8 inch skins ? Just door size?
> CCG
> Lincoln Ross
> wrote:That depends on the luan. I seem to recall 5.2mm and 5.5mm,
but there
> are also 1/8" luan doorskins. I haven't seen them other than on
doors,
> but I've seen advertising for them.
> --- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
> >
> > Luaun plywood is 5mm almost 1/4 in.
> > CCG
> > brucehallman
> > wrote:--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > > 2 skins of 3/16" pine.
> >
> > So, that means I could use
> > the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
> > they sell at Home Depot for
> > $8 a 4'x8' sheet.
> >
> > How do you hold the veneer
> > in place while the glue sets?
> >
> >
> > Do you use thickened epoxy?
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
How long are those 1/8 inch skins ? Just door size?
CCG
Lincoln Ross
wrote:That depends on the luan. I seem to recall 5.2mm and 5.5mm, but there
are also 1/8" luan doorskins. I haven't seen them other than on doors,
but I've seen advertising for them.
CCG
Lincoln Ross
wrote:That depends on the luan. I seem to recall 5.2mm and 5.5mm, but there
are also 1/8" luan doorskins. I haven't seen them other than on doors,
but I've seen advertising for them.
--- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
>
> Luaun plywood is 5mm almost 1/4 in.
> CCG
> brucehallman
> wrote:--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > 2 skins of 3/16" pine.
>
> So, that means I could use
> the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
> they sell at Home Depot for
> $8 a 4'x8' sheet.
>
> How do you hold the veneer
> in place while the glue sets?
>
>
> Do you use thickened epoxy?
>
>
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bruce, I know nothing about the cheap Luan ply. I think for the work
and effort for cold moulded construction, you wouldn't want to use
poor materials. It's a long time since I built those boats (I was
still at school), but good veneer was relatively cheap then, and is
a small part of the boats cost.
Then, veneers were stapled in place with steel staples, with a strip
of cardboard or something under the rows of staples, to avoid
denting the veneer, if bright finished. Every one of them had to be
pulled out later. Today, I believe stainless staples are used and
left in for a painted finish.
I used urea formaldahyde (spelling?) glue called Aerolite, which is
still available, wonderful stuff for trailer boats. You mixed a
white powder with water to a thickish syrup, painted the acidic
hardner on the other face and clamped. The mixed glue has an
indefinite life in the pot if kept in the fridg, before meeting the
hardener, so very convenient for intermitent bursts of work. If
using epoxy, it would just be normal thickened, but less friendly
than Aerolite which can be washed up with water, gloves not
required. I hate to think how many sets of gloves you would use with
epoxy cold mould.
If you are fazed by the effort of cold moulding, clinker ply would
be a much quicker, and not much heavier, though the strakes would
have to be quite narrow for that design.
DonB
--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
and effort for cold moulded construction, you wouldn't want to use
poor materials. It's a long time since I built those boats (I was
still at school), but good veneer was relatively cheap then, and is
a small part of the boats cost.
Then, veneers were stapled in place with steel staples, with a strip
of cardboard or something under the rows of staples, to avoid
denting the veneer, if bright finished. Every one of them had to be
pulled out later. Today, I believe stainless staples are used and
left in for a painted finish.
I used urea formaldahyde (spelling?) glue called Aerolite, which is
still available, wonderful stuff for trailer boats. You mixed a
white powder with water to a thickish syrup, painted the acidic
hardner on the other face and clamped. The mixed glue has an
indefinite life in the pot if kept in the fridg, before meeting the
hardener, so very convenient for intermitent bursts of work. If
using epoxy, it would just be normal thickened, but less friendly
than Aerolite which can be washed up with water, gloves not
required. I hate to think how many sets of gloves you would use with
epoxy cold mould.
If you are fazed by the effort of cold moulding, clinker ply would
be a much quicker, and not much heavier, though the strakes would
have to be quite narrow for that design.
DonB
--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > 2 skins of 3/16" pine.
>
> So, that means I could use
> the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
> they sell at Home Depot for
> $8 a 4'x8' sheet.
>
> How do you hold the veneer
> in place while the glue sets?
>
>
> Do you use thickened epoxy?
Home Depot, at least around here, used to carry 1/8" exterior doorskins.
They were not luan but something a little harder, maybe some type of birch.
They were less than 4 x 8, as befits a "doorskin". It was fairly cheap and I
bought a sheet just to try it out. Now that I've used it up on some
stitch-n-glue dorade boxes and few other things, HD no longer seems to stock
it!
Paul
They were not luan but something a little harder, maybe some type of birch.
They were less than 4 x 8, as befits a "doorskin". It was fairly cheap and I
bought a sheet just to try it out. Now that I've used it up on some
stitch-n-glue dorade boxes and few other things, HD no longer seems to stock
it!
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 21, 2002 8:52 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Cold-Molded Construction
> That depends on the luan. I seem to recall 5.2mm and 5.5mm, but there
> are also 1/8" luan doorskins. I haven't seen them other than on doors,
> but I've seen advertising for them.
> --- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
> >
> > Luaun plywood is 5mm almost 1/4 in.
> > CCG
> > brucehallman
> > wrote:--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > > 2 skins of 3/16" pine.
> >
> > So, that means I could use
> > the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
> > they sell at Home Depot for
> > $8 a 4'x8' sheet.
> >
> > How do you hold the veneer
> > in place while the glue sets?
> >
> >
> > Do you use thickened epoxy?
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
That depends on the luan. I seem to recall 5.2mm and 5.5mm, but there
are also 1/8" luan doorskins. I haven't seen them other than on doors,
but I've seen advertising for them.
are also 1/8" luan doorskins. I haven't seen them other than on doors,
but I've seen advertising for them.
--- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
>
> Luaun plywood is 5mm almost 1/4 in.
> CCG
> brucehallman
> wrote:--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> > 2 skins of 3/16" pine.
>
> So, that means I could use
> the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
> they sell at Home Depot for
> $8 a 4'x8' sheet.
>
> How do you hold the veneer
> in place while the glue sets?
>
>
> Do you use thickened epoxy?
>
>
Luaun plywood is 5mm almost 1/4 in.
CCG
brucehallman
wrote:--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
they sell at Home Depot for
$8 a 4'x8' sheet.
How do you hold the veneer
in place while the glue sets?
Do you use thickened epoxy?
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
CCG
brucehallman
wrote:--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> 2 skins of 3/16" pine.So, that means I could use
the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
they sell at Home Depot for
$8 a 4'x8' sheet.
How do you hold the veneer
in place while the glue sets?
Do you use thickened epoxy?
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'd guess Bolger likes it because it's light, strong, clean on the
inside, doesn't take up much of the interior space, and the wood is
protected.
I'm wondering how you keep the glue from seeping to the inside and, if
you're putting in a couple of strips a night in your spare time, if
you are mixing up little batches of epoxy as you go or something
friendlier. I recall Thomas Firth Jones writing that he did a cold
molded boat with plastic resin glue and it sagged!
inside, doesn't take up much of the interior space, and the wood is
protected.
I'm wondering how you keep the glue from seeping to the inside and, if
you're putting in a couple of strips a night in your spare time, if
you are mixing up little batches of epoxy as you go or something
friendlier. I recall Thomas Firth Jones writing that he did a cold
molded boat with plastic resin glue and it sagged!
--- In bolger@y..., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
> Hi Bruce, I have built 2 cold moulded boats, a racing catamaran, 2
snip
previously, someone's question re cold molded
--- "Richard Spelling" wrote:
at the moment, but I recall
1985, after Folding Schooner.
Sure seems that lately, after
SA/PB&F, etc.. they seem to
favor plywood and chines.
> What is the pub date on "Different Boats"?I don't have it in hand
at the moment, but I recall
1985, after Folding Schooner.
Sure seems that lately, after
SA/PB&F, etc.. they seem to
favor plywood and chines.
--- .., "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
they sell at Home Depot for
$8 a 4'x8' sheet.
How do you hold the veneer
in place while the glue sets?
Do you use thickened epoxy?
> 2 skins of 3/16" pine.So, that means I could use
the cheap 1/8" luaun plywood
they sell at Home Depot for
$8 a 4'x8' sheet.
How do you hold the veneer
in place while the glue sets?
Do you use thickened epoxy?
Hi Bruce, I have built 2 cold moulded boats, a racing catamaran, 2
layers of 1/12" mahogany, and an R class racing dinghy, 2 skins of
3/16" pine.
Especially when using thin veneers, the fairness of your mould is
paramount. In a sense, you are building 2 hulls for one. The battens
need to be very close.
Building is slow and messy, but at least you can do small bursts as
time permits.
Ultimately, lifting your light strong and beautiful shell from the
clunky mould is near orgasmic. Essentially, a moulded boat is a
labour of love. Cold moulding would still be my choice for a boat
like Felucca.
I have seen a Felucca here in NZ, sadly deteriorating under a tree.
When I went back it had gone. She is a very pretty design, though
larger in reality than she appears in the book, or so I thought.
This one was mahogany, finished bright, and would have looked a
picture restored.
DonB
layers of 1/12" mahogany, and an R class racing dinghy, 2 skins of
3/16" pine.
Especially when using thin veneers, the fairness of your mould is
paramount. In a sense, you are building 2 hulls for one. The battens
need to be very close.
Building is slow and messy, but at least you can do small bursts as
time permits.
Ultimately, lifting your light strong and beautiful shell from the
clunky mould is near orgasmic. Essentially, a moulded boat is a
labour of love. Cold moulding would still be my choice for a boat
like Felucca.
I have seen a Felucca here in NZ, sadly deteriorating under a tree.
When I went back it had gone. She is a very pretty design, though
larger in reality than she appears in the book, or so I thought.
This one was mahogany, finished bright, and would have looked a
picture restored.
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> Once again I want to build
> another Bolger Boat, this
> time Felucca, a beautiful
> beach/camp cruiser. [Ch.7 of
> Different Boats]...
>
> PCB writes: "...cold-moulded
> construction...I think it's
> the best of all ways to build
> very small boats."
>
> Hmm, I have never tried it.
> Has anyone else around here
> tried cold-moulded construction?
>
> And, care to guess why PCB
> thinks it is the 'best of
> all'?
What is the pub date on "Different Boats"?
Think he still holds that opinion?
I know his opinion on several other boat design points has evolved over the
years.
Think he still holds that opinion?
I know his opinion on several other boat design points has evolved over the
years.
----- Original Message -----
From: "brucehallman" <brucehallman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, September 20, 2002 2:52 PM
Subject: [bolger] Cold-Molded Construction
> Once again I want to build
> another Bolger Boat, this
> time Felucca, a beautiful
> beach/camp cruiser. [Ch.7 of
> Different Boats]...
>
> PCB writes: "...cold-moulded
> construction...I think it's
> the best of all ways to build
> very small boats."
>
> Hmm, I have never tried it.
> Has anyone else around here
> tried cold-moulded construction?
>
> And, care to guess why PCB
> thinks it is the 'best of
> all'?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Once again I want to build
another Bolger Boat, this
time Felucca, a beautiful
beach/camp cruiser. [Ch.7 of
Different Boats]...
PCB writes: "...cold-moulded
construction...I think it's
the best of all ways to build
very small boats."
Hmm, I have never tried it.
Has anyone else around here
tried cold-moulded construction?
And, care to guess why PCB
thinks it is the 'best of
all'?
another Bolger Boat, this
time Felucca, a beautiful
beach/camp cruiser. [Ch.7 of
Different Boats]...
PCB writes: "...cold-moulded
construction...I think it's
the best of all ways to build
very small boats."
Hmm, I have never tried it.
Has anyone else around here
tried cold-moulded construction?
And, care to guess why PCB
thinks it is the 'best of
all'?