Re: Sewing Sails?
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
getting dark looks from the wife when she starts up her heavy duty
quiltting machine.
I'm eyeing off my mums singer that she brought from England in 1960.
a money saving hint. I used good old contact adhesive instead of
tape. Dont use the GEL type contacts , they fail quite easily
> FBBB --be
>
> My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
> something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
> "Trading Spaces")
>
> Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
> for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would
> suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?I have to agree with the heavy brigade on the sails . i 'm still
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
> --
>
>
getting dark looks from the wife when she starts up her heavy duty
quiltting machine.
I'm eyeing off my mums singer that she brought from England in 1960.
a money saving hint. I used good old contact adhesive instead of
tape. Dont use the GEL type contacts , they fail quite easily
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
getting dark looks from the wife when she starts up her heavy duty
quiltting machine.
I'm eyeing off my mums singer that she brought from England in 1960.
a money saving hint. I used good old contact adhesive instead of
tape. Dont use the GEL type contacts , they fail quite easily
> FBBB --be
>
> My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
> something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
> "Trading Spaces")
>
> Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
> for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would
> suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?I have to agree with the heavy brigade on the sails . i 'm still
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
> --
>
>
getting dark looks from the wife when she starts up her heavy duty
quiltting machine.
I'm eyeing off my mums singer that she brought from England in 1960.
a money saving hint. I used good old contact adhesive instead of
tape. Dont use the GEL type contacts , they fail quite easily
Check out the sail and rigging section at John's Mother of all Maritime
Links site. There are several used sail links there. Check the sail
maker's also, because some like Pineapple handle used sails.
http://www.boat-links.com/boatlink.html
HJ
Links site. There are several used sail links there. Check the sail
maker's also, because some like Pineapple handle used sails.
http://www.boat-links.com/boatlink.html
HJ
> Where is the best place to
> find old sails to 'cut down'?
>
>
> finishing the edges on cut down sails?Where is the best place to
find old sails to 'cut down'?
I notice that:
http://secure.sailrite.com/products.asp?dept=268
...sells 4 oz white dacron for about
$1.00 per square foot.
Also, they sell 4 oz dacron
'Tanbark' for $2.50 a SF.
What the heck is Tanbark and
is it worth the extra cost?
I wonder if anybody knows if
PCB has expressed an opinion
about polytarp sails.
I also notice that
http://www.tarps.com/white.htm
sells 11 mil [6 oz.] white
Polytarp that is UV resistant
for $0.10 a square foot.
Dave Gray in his article in MAIB
a few months ago said that he
only sells the 'better grade' of
white poly that is '8 mil' and
UV resistant.
Is 11 mil better than 8 mil?
It seems to me, that if
white polytarp sails last for
a year or two, and are 10% of
the cost, that would be a good
deal. Also, not having to
sew the seams every 36" [and to
not have center seams at all]
would also be an advantage.
The biggest risk of tarps
wearing out seems to be not
sewing the seams [duh!] and
UV damage [use sail covers!].
Also, if the sail material
is cheap, and you don't like
the cut of the sail on the
first try, I suspect that
you might be less inhibited
to 'try again'. If you had
paid $2.50 per SF, trying
again could be expensive.
That's the one I used for the sail on the Chebacco, for the upholstery, and
for the sail cover. Works fine, needed a little coaxing on the thicker parts
of the sail. Be sure to use the right needle, thinner needles go through
easier but fray the polyester thread.
for the sail cover. Works fine, needed a little coaxing on the thicker parts
of the sail. Be sure to use the right needle, thinner needles go through
easier but fray the polyester thread.
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ryan" <david@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 12:15 PM
Subject: [bolger] Sewing Sails?
| FBBB --
|
| My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
| something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
| "Trading Spaces")
|
| Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
| for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would be
| suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
|
| YIBB,
|
| David
| --
|
| C.E.P.
| 415 W.46th Street
| New York, New York 10036
|http://www.crumblingempire.com
| Mobile (646) 325-8325
| Office (212) 247-0296
|
|
| Bolger rules!!!
| - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
| - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
| - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
| - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
| - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
| - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
|
| Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
|
|
I'll chime in on this thread, I'd owned 5 sewing machines before I finally
got my first table saw, 4 of 'em were oldies I got for free and restored
myself. I learned to sew Frostline kits (down jacket, backpacks, etc.) on a
~$250 'modern' plastic Singer circa 1980 and found that not only was the
plastic case too light to sit still on the table, but also it flexed when
the going got tough, letting the head twist and causing the needle to go out
of alignment with the bobbin, bending and breaking needles and causing
endless frustration. They make 'em plastic so they'll be easy to toss up on
the top shelf of the closet, but IMO that makes 'em useless for sewing
anything heavier than Barbie dresses. Every plastic machine I've ever
borrowed has been problematic for the stuff I do (outdoor gear and such).
Despite the fancy plastic high-tech electronic modern marvels, sewing
machines really haven't changed internally for over half a century (modern
Berninas and Husqvarnas excepted...), and an older cast-iron machine can do
almost anything a newer machine will do, they last forever, and many came
built into a table, which is a very nice amenity for comfort during long
projects. Ancient black Singers are a dime a dozen, motorized or treadle,
most are slow but nothing stops them; but few have zig-zag for sails, and
the slow speeds can get to be a drag on big projects. But alot of machines
of 50's or '60's vintage have the important features (zig-zag, buttonhole,
other lock-stitches), are fast, were still built like the proverbial brick
outhouse, and are a joy to work with, yet are not appreciated due to their
period paint schemes and a general impression that they must be worn out.
But they're like those old red Johnson outboards - they'll run forever if
well maintained, but tend to have had easier lives than an old outboard. I
sewed my Micro sails on my 'newest' acquisition, the 1955 'Fleetwood' Korean
Singer-knockoff my mom got when she was pregnant with me; it's a hideous
turquoise and white enameled cast-iron beast, but boy can that thing sew.
These old machines aren't hard to find cheap, or even free - I've seen
several at the local dump in the 'pick of the litter' swap shop that I
would've taken if I didn't already have a good machine, also was offered one
by an elderly neighbor who doesn't sew anymore and just wanted it to go to
someone she knew. Ask around. In most cases all they'd need is a $50 tuneup
to get them ready for decades more of trouble-free service, and parts and
accessories are generic, you can get 'em at any sewing shop. Check
prospective machines for metal-to-metal wear inside, where the needle passes
thru the bobbin mechanism (the needle shouldn't actually touch anything, if
very worn then pass on it, if slightly worn, get it tuned up), also check
the wires before running them, 50-year old wires usually need replacing. A
few strategic drops of oil can make them purr like a kitten. I value my old
sewing machine as much as any of my shop tools, and use it as often.
(I should state that some of my shop floor tools are over 50 years old....
so I AM biased!)
Paul Lefebvre
got my first table saw, 4 of 'em were oldies I got for free and restored
myself. I learned to sew Frostline kits (down jacket, backpacks, etc.) on a
~$250 'modern' plastic Singer circa 1980 and found that not only was the
plastic case too light to sit still on the table, but also it flexed when
the going got tough, letting the head twist and causing the needle to go out
of alignment with the bobbin, bending and breaking needles and causing
endless frustration. They make 'em plastic so they'll be easy to toss up on
the top shelf of the closet, but IMO that makes 'em useless for sewing
anything heavier than Barbie dresses. Every plastic machine I've ever
borrowed has been problematic for the stuff I do (outdoor gear and such).
Despite the fancy plastic high-tech electronic modern marvels, sewing
machines really haven't changed internally for over half a century (modern
Berninas and Husqvarnas excepted...), and an older cast-iron machine can do
almost anything a newer machine will do, they last forever, and many came
built into a table, which is a very nice amenity for comfort during long
projects. Ancient black Singers are a dime a dozen, motorized or treadle,
most are slow but nothing stops them; but few have zig-zag for sails, and
the slow speeds can get to be a drag on big projects. But alot of machines
of 50's or '60's vintage have the important features (zig-zag, buttonhole,
other lock-stitches), are fast, were still built like the proverbial brick
outhouse, and are a joy to work with, yet are not appreciated due to their
period paint schemes and a general impression that they must be worn out.
But they're like those old red Johnson outboards - they'll run forever if
well maintained, but tend to have had easier lives than an old outboard. I
sewed my Micro sails on my 'newest' acquisition, the 1955 'Fleetwood' Korean
Singer-knockoff my mom got when she was pregnant with me; it's a hideous
turquoise and white enameled cast-iron beast, but boy can that thing sew.
These old machines aren't hard to find cheap, or even free - I've seen
several at the local dump in the 'pick of the litter' swap shop that I
would've taken if I didn't already have a good machine, also was offered one
by an elderly neighbor who doesn't sew anymore and just wanted it to go to
someone she knew. Ask around. In most cases all they'd need is a $50 tuneup
to get them ready for decades more of trouble-free service, and parts and
accessories are generic, you can get 'em at any sewing shop. Check
prospective machines for metal-to-metal wear inside, where the needle passes
thru the bobbin mechanism (the needle shouldn't actually touch anything, if
very worn then pass on it, if slightly worn, get it tuned up), also check
the wires before running them, 50-year old wires usually need replacing. A
few strategic drops of oil can make them purr like a kitten. I value my old
sewing machine as much as any of my shop tools, and use it as often.
(I should state that some of my shop floor tools are over 50 years old....
so I AM biased!)
Paul Lefebvre
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Ryan [mailto:david@...]
> Sent: Sunday, September 29, 2002 1:16 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Sewing Sails?
>
>
> FBBB --
>
> My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
> something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
> "Trading Spaces")
>
> Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
> for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would be
> suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
> --
>
Most sewing machines nowadays have the strength to do work of this type,
but the stitch spacing cannot open up enough to do Canvas or leather. What
we are hoping to do is buy a used school machine at tax time next year.
They are inexpensive, very versatile, and Heavy duty enough for whatever
abuse I put it through. The other option is finding an old Singer Cobblers
machine, if you find a foot pedal model, you can even sew in the boat.
but the stitch spacing cannot open up enough to do Canvas or leather. What
we are hoping to do is buy a used school machine at tax time next year.
They are inexpensive, very versatile, and Heavy duty enough for whatever
abuse I put it through. The other option is finding an old Singer Cobblers
machine, if you find a foot pedal model, you can even sew in the boat.
>David Signalled:
>My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
>something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
>"Trading Spaces")
>Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
>for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would be
>suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
My suggestion exactly. We picked up an old
Bernina at a sewing shop and it has been
running strong ever since. It doesn't have
a lot of fancy stitches but it is heavy
and strong. I have done polytarp, leather,
dacron, canvas, vinyl, plastic, and many
other materials. The few times It strained
to do the work, I just lubricated the needle and
thread and it was happy again.
Brent
Bernina at a sewing shop and it has been
running strong ever since. It doesn't have
a lot of fancy stitches but it is heavy
and strong. I have done polytarp, leather,
dacron, canvas, vinyl, plastic, and many
other materials. The few times It strained
to do the work, I just lubricated the needle and
thread and it was happy again.
Brent
--- In bolger@y..., "Derek Waters" <dgw@d...> wrote:
> Hi David
>
> The Brother weighs about 12 lbs. Sewing your sails will be a more
pleasant
> experience on an old iron head - they tip the scales around 40 lbs
and don't
> get pushed around quite as easily. Sewing machine places often have them
> real cheap, having taken them as trade-ins. Just my 2c.
>
> Cheers
> Derek
I sewed my 90 sqft sail with my wife's necchi home model with no
extra stuff. I kind of burnt up the motor. These days, I can still
sew cuffs on my pants, but when I sewed my bimini, the motor started
smelling after a bit and I had to let it cool down before each long
seam. I saw some replacement motors on ebay for less than $20, so
I'll probably get one of those before my next project.
Frank
extra stuff. I kind of burnt up the motor. These days, I can still
sew cuffs on my pants, but when I sewed my bimini, the motor started
smelling after a bit and I had to let it cool down before each long
seam. I saw some replacement motors on ebay for less than $20, so
I'll probably get one of those before my next project.
Frank
--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --
>
> My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
> something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
> "Trading Spaces")
>
> Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
> for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would
be
> suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
> --
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
Hi David
The Brother weighs about 12 lbs. Sewing your sails will be a more pleasant
experience on an old iron head - they tip the scales around 40 lbs and don't
get pushed around quite as easily. Sewing machine places often have them
real cheap, having taken them as trade-ins. Just my 2c.
Cheers
Derek
The Brother weighs about 12 lbs. Sewing your sails will be a more pleasant
experience on an old iron head - they tip the scales around 40 lbs and don't
get pushed around quite as easily. Sewing machine places often have them
real cheap, having taken them as trade-ins. Just my 2c.
Cheers
Derek
Have her check out old treddle sewing machines. Amish here still use them . I use mine to sew leather, and parts are still available. They run $50 -$100 at auctions around here.
CCG
David Ryan wrote:FBBB --
My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
"Trading Spaces")
Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would be
suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
CCG
David Ryan wrote:FBBB --
My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
"Trading Spaces")
Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would be
suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
New DSL Internet Access from SBC & Yahoo!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You can do some prodigious sewing on a simple machine. Follow the
basic sailrite instructions. There is some thread lubrication advice
that made all the difference, when using a small domestic machine.
You do strain the motor a little, so get something like a Sears with
a good waranty. Idealy find a mcahine that fits an aftermarket hand
crank. It is easier to crank your way through large material
buildups at reefing points and so forth, rather than trying to get
the motor to surge through them.
ee--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
basic sailrite instructions. There is some thread lubrication advice
that made all the difference, when using a small domestic machine.
You do strain the motor a little, so get something like a Sears with
a good waranty. Idealy find a mcahine that fits an aftermarket hand
crank. It is easier to crank your way through large material
buildups at reefing points and so forth, rather than trying to get
the motor to surge through them.
ee--- In bolger@y..., David Ryan <david@c...> wrote:
> FBBB --be
>
> My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
> something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
> "Trading Spaces")
>
> Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
> for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would
> suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
> --
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
> Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at WalmartMy experience with sewing is quite limited. I had no trouble sewing
> for $99.99.
polytarp sails on a home machine once an knowledgeable person gave me
the right thread. The only problem was that I was sewing through
carpet tape and the adhesive gummed things up a little.
The problem with sails is that sometimes, a very big piece of cloth
has to go between the needle and the (whatever y'call it) upright
portion of the machine. Usually the sail is rolled, but that causes
problems too with the patches losing alignment. I think there is an
interesting FAQ on the Sailrite site.
For sails, you want a ziz-zag feature. I might also check out if it
has any advice or special attachments for upholstery. Curtains are
more common that sails, I imagine, at least at Walmart.
Peter
FBBB --
My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
"Trading Spaces")
Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would be
suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
My wife is researching sewing machines in the hope of finding
something inexpensive but serviceable for home projects (think
"Trading Spaces")
Right now she's looking at the Brother LS1217, available at Walmart
for $99.99. Does anyone on here know if this sort of machine would be
suitable for finishing the edges on cut down sails?
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296