Re: Houseboat #481
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dnjost" <davidjost@...> wrote:
the racks out of 1 1/4" square steel pipe 3/16" thickness. It is 5
feet wide and the extension is a 5 foot piece of 1" square pipe which
fits perfectly inside the rack. I just silde it in a foot or so and
voila, start loading the boat! Sometime if space is a problem, I can
store the extension inside the rack. These are the best racks I have
had and total cost was $20, It is on a Honda CR-V and the car part
is a piece of angle iron drilled out to fit the pre-drilled holes on
the roof. I welded pieces of angle on the square pipe that fit the
car piece. The rack is bolted to the car with 3/8 bolts and is put
on or removed in a few minutes. This is a very strong rack. The
Junebug is a snap to load because it is so light but have loaded much
heavier boats easily. The longer the boat, the easier it is.
regards and happy boating, Paul waiting for a major blizzard and
fairing the bottom on a Small clam skiff. I can see it on the roof
rack now.
>That
> Paul -
>
> i would love a picture of the roof rack with the front extension.
> would solve so many issues with long boats. My car's roof wouldNo picture required David but I could send you some off line. I made
> appreciate it.
>
> David Jost
>
the racks out of 1 1/4" square steel pipe 3/16" thickness. It is 5
feet wide and the extension is a 5 foot piece of 1" square pipe which
fits perfectly inside the rack. I just silde it in a foot or so and
voila, start loading the boat! Sometime if space is a problem, I can
store the extension inside the rack. These are the best racks I have
had and total cost was $20, It is on a Honda CR-V and the car part
is a piece of angle iron drilled out to fit the pre-drilled holes on
the roof. I welded pieces of angle on the square pipe that fit the
car piece. The rack is bolted to the car with 3/8 bolts and is put
on or removed in a few minutes. This is a very strong rack. The
Junebug is a snap to load because it is so light but have loaded much
heavier boats easily. The longer the boat, the easier it is.
regards and happy boating, Paul waiting for a major blizzard and
fairing the bottom on a Small clam skiff. I can see it on the roof
rack now.
Paul -
i would love a picture of the roof rack with the front extension. That
would solve so many issues with long boats. My car's roof would
appreciate it.
David Jost
i would love a picture of the roof rack with the front extension. That
would solve so many issues with long boats. My car's roof would
appreciate it.
David Jost
On Jan 27, 2008 2:14 PM, Peter Lenihan <peterlenihan@...> wrote:
June 29, 2004. I was impressed!
>That would be Paul McLellan, and #481 "Happy Adventurer" was launched
>
> There is one esteemed member here who built one.
June 29, 2004. I was impressed!
Peter, I know I am mixed up but in a crazy sort of way and old enough
to remember when we went to the bathroom outside and smoked inside.
The Junebug weighs only 60 pounds or about 25 kilos. It was made
from 4 sheets of luan, glassed on the interior floor and the bottom.
I used eastern white cedar for the dimensional lumber and skimped
where possible. I did not add the sailing features and there are no
seats as I have a box with all the essentials for boating in it which
serves as a step on the Houseboat and a seat on the Junebug. We love
this little boat and it got a lot of use last year with no problems
other than a small wound when I dropped it about eight feet onto a
sharp object. I did put three small skids on the bottom and is is
stiff enough with no oilcanning at high rowing speed or even with the
2 hp Honda pushing it along.
With the clam skiff I am estimating the final weight to be about 200
lbs. It is a heck of a lot of boat for that weight. regards paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
wrote:
to remember when we went to the bathroom outside and smoked inside.
The Junebug weighs only 60 pounds or about 25 kilos. It was made
from 4 sheets of luan, glassed on the interior floor and the bottom.
I used eastern white cedar for the dimensional lumber and skimped
where possible. I did not add the sailing features and there are no
seats as I have a box with all the essentials for boating in it which
serves as a step on the Houseboat and a seat on the Junebug. We love
this little boat and it got a lot of use last year with no problems
other than a small wound when I dropped it about eight feet onto a
sharp object. I did put three small skids on the bottom and is is
stiff enough with no oilcanning at high rowing speed or even with the
2 hp Honda pushing it along.
With the clam skiff I am estimating the final weight to be about 200
lbs. It is a heck of a lot of boat for that weight. regards paul
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <peterlenihan@...>
wrote:
>1/4
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@> wrote:
> >
> > I am amazed that it is only 60lbs. It comes out of 4 sheets of
> indo
> > which are usually 25lbs apiece, plus dimensional lumber. Did you
> > anything different to lighten it?around
>
> Harry,
>
> a)After building the houseboat,everything feels lighter to Paul:-)
>
> b)Paul is mixing up metric and english measures.:-)
>
> c)If you only ever have to lift one end at a time, you are probably
> lifting only half the total weight,thus 60lbs X 2 would put it
> your guestimate.....just a thought. :-)
>
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
a)After building the houseboat,everything feels lighter to Paul:-)
b)Paul is mixing up metric and english measures.:-)
c)If you only ever have to lift one end at a time, you are probably
lifting only half the total weight,thus 60lbs X 2 would put it around
your guestimate.....just a thought. :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
>in
> I am amazed that it is only 60lbs. It comes out of 4 sheets of 1/4
> which are usually 25lbs apiece, plus dimensional lumber. Did you doHarry,
> anything different to lighten it?
a)After building the houseboat,everything feels lighter to Paul:-)
b)Paul is mixing up metric and english measures.:-)
c)If you only ever have to lift one end at a time, you are probably
lifting only half the total weight,thus 60lbs X 2 would put it around
your guestimate.....just a thought. :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
I am amazed that it is only 60lbs. It comes out of 4 sheets of 1/4 in
which are usually 25lbs apiece, plus dimensional lumber. Did you do
anything different to lighten it?
HJ
Paul McLellan wrote:
which are usually 25lbs apiece, plus dimensional lumber. Did you do
anything different to lighten it?
HJ
Paul McLellan wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
>
>> Is there any pictures of him getting the Junebug up on that roof?
>>
>> HJ
>>
> The Junebug only weighs about 60 pounds and is easy to put on the roof
> of the Houseboat at dock, harder when it is on the trailer or in the
> water. To launch just slide it off the side and let it drop once a bit
> of flotation is achieved at the stern. Storing it upright allows me to
> have the oars, paddle and life jackets in it ready to go. When some
> ask too many questions, as can happen with a bolger boat, I tell them
> when the Houseboat sinks, we sit in the dingy and wait for it to float
> off. I lift it on and off alone but it is nice to have a steadying
> hand. To get it on the roof racks of the car, I have an extension for
> the front rack and put the bow on it, lift the stern on the rear rack
> then slide the boat into position for securing. It is so easy it
> amazes me. Happy boating and building, Today I will be gluing the shoe
> on the Small Clam Skiff. regards Paul McLellan so many boats, so
> little time.
>
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
of the Houseboat at dock, harder when it is on the trailer or in the
water. To launch just slide it off the side and let it drop once a bit
of flotation is achieved at the stern. Storing it upright allows me to
have the oars, paddle and life jackets in it ready to go. When some
ask too many questions, as can happen with a bolger boat, I tell them
when the Houseboat sinks, we sit in the dingy and wait for it to float
off. I lift it on and off alone but it is nice to have a steadying
hand. To get it on the roof racks of the car, I have an extension for
the front rack and put the bow on it, lift the stern on the rear rack
then slide the boat into position for securing. It is so easy it
amazes me. Happy boating and building, Today I will be gluing the shoe
on the Small Clam Skiff. regards Paul McLellan so many boats, so
little time.
>The Junebug only weighs about 60 pounds and is easy to put on the roof
> Is there any pictures of him getting the Junebug up on that roof?
>
> HJ
of the Houseboat at dock, harder when it is on the trailer or in the
water. To launch just slide it off the side and let it drop once a bit
of flotation is achieved at the stern. Storing it upright allows me to
have the oars, paddle and life jackets in it ready to go. When some
ask too many questions, as can happen with a bolger boat, I tell them
when the Houseboat sinks, we sit in the dingy and wait for it to float
off. I lift it on and off alone but it is nice to have a steadying
hand. To get it on the roof racks of the car, I have an extension for
the front rack and put the bow on it, lift the stern on the rear rack
then slide the boat into position for securing. It is so easy it
amazes me. Happy boating and building, Today I will be gluing the shoe
on the Small Clam Skiff. regards Paul McLellan so many boats, so
little time.
Is there any pictures of him getting the Junebug up on that roof?
HJ
Peter Lenihan wrote:
HJ
Peter Lenihan wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "deserttoad64" <deserttoad64@...> wrote:[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>> Does anyone know anything about this "boat"? I have been trying to
>>
> find
>
>> a small houseboat plans (18-20ft) that can carry a good load. I like
>> the looks of this, although the only picture I have seen looks to
>>
> have
>
>> too many windows. Cute... Has Bolger designed any othe small
>> houseboats?? Where the heck does one find plans??
>>
>
> Here ya go:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/houseboat%20%23%20481/
>
> it is in the file section of this group :-) and Paul can sing the
> praises of it too :-)
>
>
> Peter
>
>
>
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "deserttoad64" <deserttoad64@...> wrote:
20481/
it is in the file section of this group :-) and Paul can sing the
praises of it too :-)
Peter
>find
> Does anyone know anything about this "boat"? I have been trying to
> a small houseboat plans (18-20ft) that can carry a good load. I likehave
> the looks of this, although the only picture I have seen looks to
> too many windows. Cute... Has Bolger designed any othe smallHere ya go:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/houseboat%20%23%
> houseboats?? Where the heck does one find plans??
20481/
it is in the file section of this group :-) and Paul can sing the
praises of it too :-)
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "deserttoad64" <deserttoad64@...> wrote:
the home page. There is one esteemed member here who built one.You jut
have to dig around the groups files/photo sections to find it.
Peter
>find
> Does anyone know anything about this "boat"? I have been trying to
> a small houseboat plans (18-20ft) that can carry a good load. I likehave
> the looks of this, although the only picture I have seen looks to
> too many windows. Cute... Has Bolger designed any othe smallThe plans are available from the designer whose address is right on
> houseboats?? Where the heck does one find plans??
the home page. There is one esteemed member here who built one.You jut
have to dig around the groups files/photo sections to find it.
Peter
>
Does anyone know anything about this "boat"? I have been trying to find
a small houseboat plans (18-20ft) that can carry a good load. I like
the looks of this, although the only picture I have seen looks to have
too many windows. Cute... Has Bolger designed any othe small
houseboats?? Where the heck does one find plans??
a small houseboat plans (18-20ft) that can carry a good load. I like
the looks of this, although the only picture I have seen looks to have
too many windows. Cute... Has Bolger designed any othe small
houseboats?? Where the heck does one find plans??
Paul-
Looks real nice.....the 481 is one of the sharpest shanty boats out
there. What are the dimensions.....8x16 or 20?
I know those pics will make someone want to build the superbrick :)
Jason
Looks real nice.....the 481 is one of the sharpest shanty boats out
there. What are the dimensions.....8x16 or 20?
I know those pics will make someone want to build the superbrick :)
Jason
> It's out of the barn and on the homemade trailer.Way cool!
It's out of the barn and on the homemade trailer. I have posted 2
pictures in Bolger 2 Houseboat photos # 17 and 18. Yesterday we
inatalled the old motor with new controls and today I spliced all
the wires and the engine actually turned over. All the wiring is
done at he helm station as well as the house lights, water pumps and
accessories. Still lots of piddly things but if the motor will
start tomorrow John Bartlett and I plan to test launch next week.
we offset the motor off the back to give full clearance for the rear
deck. John the boat enlarger is trying to convince me to add to the
front and the swim platform on the back and add 6 feet to the boat
even before it gets wet. This will be something to discuss at the
kingston messabout. I am more than pleased with the results to date
and hope it is as much fun and interesting cruising as it is
building it. Thanks Mr. Bolger for some wonderful fantasies and dry
sailing, now for the test. Will keep you posted.
Paul McLellan, elated that I may make my deadline to be on the water
to see the Canada day fireworks from the boat in out nations
capital, Ottawa
pictures in Bolger 2 Houseboat photos # 17 and 18. Yesterday we
inatalled the old motor with new controls and today I spliced all
the wires and the engine actually turned over. All the wiring is
done at he helm station as well as the house lights, water pumps and
accessories. Still lots of piddly things but if the motor will
start tomorrow John Bartlett and I plan to test launch next week.
we offset the motor off the back to give full clearance for the rear
deck. John the boat enlarger is trying to convince me to add to the
front and the swim platform on the back and add 6 feet to the boat
even before it gets wet. This will be something to discuss at the
kingston messabout. I am more than pleased with the results to date
and hope it is as much fun and interesting cruising as it is
building it. Thanks Mr. Bolger for some wonderful fantasies and dry
sailing, now for the test. Will keep you posted.
Paul McLellan, elated that I may make my deadline to be on the water
to see the Canada day fireworks from the boat in out nations
capital, Ottawa
Great progress in the last few weeks after taking a long time off to
actually use some of those !#%% boats hanging around here and truly
enjoying the kingston messabout and the great intelectual hangover I
recieved. so much teriffic information to absorb with all the talent
and beautiful boats to learn from. Hope this event gets better every
year.
The houseboat exterior is complete and ready for a spring final round
of gluing and painting. The results far exceed my humble expectations
and the final look is much better than the effect of the two
dimensional drawing. The very large windows are really functional and
with the dark tint add the dimension of mystery. The double doors at
the front piano hinge ope and virtually disappear flush against the
port bulkhead off the forward deck. The rear door slides to the short
side and disappears.
Today I mocked up a helm station and the counter top for the stove,
sink and food prep area using some scraps. I like this method of
learning and will make the communication easier with the first mate.
We are currently discussing the bed and have decided on a day bed in
place all the time right behind the helm station. This day bed would
slide out to a width of 56 inches x 75 inches and use the foam from
the day bed. The headboard will be a cut out shelf from the head wall
and conveniently hold the reading lights and serve as half a
bookshelf. On the other half of this shelf in the head it will hold
various toiletries with the dry towels hanging over it and the wall
covered with a shower curtain to keep everything accessable and dry.
Right now I am planning the mechanicals and hope to build in both
batteries into the helm station as well as battery switch, condition
indicators, fuse panel, tachometer, depth finder, marine radio and any
other electronice. This should make all wire runs short and
electronice easy to secure.
PS The roof is incredible --- Sixteen feet long and over 8 feet
wide , all shiny and bright. Cracky, people live inb smaller spaces
than that.
Any comments or discussion on this is welcome although I am only on
line when I get the daily digest.
regards paul McLellan knowing that the frost is on the pumpkin and my
epoxy and painting days are over for this season, but happy the boat
is closed in and looking great for the long winter sleep til and early
may start.
actually use some of those !#%% boats hanging around here and truly
enjoying the kingston messabout and the great intelectual hangover I
recieved. so much teriffic information to absorb with all the talent
and beautiful boats to learn from. Hope this event gets better every
year.
The houseboat exterior is complete and ready for a spring final round
of gluing and painting. The results far exceed my humble expectations
and the final look is much better than the effect of the two
dimensional drawing. The very large windows are really functional and
with the dark tint add the dimension of mystery. The double doors at
the front piano hinge ope and virtually disappear flush against the
port bulkhead off the forward deck. The rear door slides to the short
side and disappears.
Today I mocked up a helm station and the counter top for the stove,
sink and food prep area using some scraps. I like this method of
learning and will make the communication easier with the first mate.
We are currently discussing the bed and have decided on a day bed in
place all the time right behind the helm station. This day bed would
slide out to a width of 56 inches x 75 inches and use the foam from
the day bed. The headboard will be a cut out shelf from the head wall
and conveniently hold the reading lights and serve as half a
bookshelf. On the other half of this shelf in the head it will hold
various toiletries with the dry towels hanging over it and the wall
covered with a shower curtain to keep everything accessable and dry.
Right now I am planning the mechanicals and hope to build in both
batteries into the helm station as well as battery switch, condition
indicators, fuse panel, tachometer, depth finder, marine radio and any
other electronice. This should make all wire runs short and
electronice easy to secure.
PS The roof is incredible --- Sixteen feet long and over 8 feet
wide , all shiny and bright. Cracky, people live inb smaller spaces
than that.
Any comments or discussion on this is welcome although I am only on
line when I get the daily digest.
regards paul McLellan knowing that the frost is on the pumpkin and my
epoxy and painting days are over for this season, but happy the boat
is closed in and looking great for the long winter sleep til and early
may start.
Here is a link to the page of Paul McLellan's houseboat article and pictures:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/projects/mclellan/two.htm
chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/projects/mclellan/two.htm
chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bruce Hallman wrote
"I have long been curious about the
reason for the rectangular dashed
lines that show in the Common
Sense Designs catalogue?
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/481/481.gif
My guess is that integral wheel
wells could be built into the
hull at these locations to either
allow pemanently mounted trailer
wheels, or to allow a lower slung
trailer to have wheel clearance.
Bolger shows them as areas to keep free for bailing. It isn't clear
whether he means on the floor or on the bottom. I read it as a place
to remove any water from the bilge because there are drains on either
side of the floor timbers. Hopefully the entire area is water tight
but it seems like a good idea to have the capicty to remove it if it
soes accumulate there. In my climate, condensation would be a worse
foe than the rivers. Probably this would be an area to put a small
watertight hatch. Any ideas----?
To Captjbturtle, I checked the idea of the ice boat with the sled
dogs and although they love Bolgers functionability and all his other
wonderful concepts, they all agreed it was too "box like" to be seen
on the rivers in winter. They thought the Bantam #653 had finer lines
and was much more suited for that purpose. With the built in wells
between the hulls the dogs thought it would be easy to ice fish
through the floor. When you finish it bring it up for the winter.
regards from the moaning chair. On the houseboat I had to deconstruct
the frames from the sides because of operator error. Fortunately it
was so cold that after 40 hours of curing the epoxy was still green
enough to break apart. After it cured a bit I am able to remove the
epoxy via an electric hand plane and some 36 grit on a 3" belt sander.
Shot with a ball of my own epoxy. A minor setback but a life lesson
that I should have known already. Happy boating
"I have long been curious about the
reason for the rectangular dashed
lines that show in the Common
Sense Designs catalogue?
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/481/481.gif
My guess is that integral wheel
wells could be built into the
hull at these locations to either
allow pemanently mounted trailer
wheels, or to allow a lower slung
trailer to have wheel clearance.
Bolger shows them as areas to keep free for bailing. It isn't clear
whether he means on the floor or on the bottom. I read it as a place
to remove any water from the bilge because there are drains on either
side of the floor timbers. Hopefully the entire area is water tight
but it seems like a good idea to have the capicty to remove it if it
soes accumulate there. In my climate, condensation would be a worse
foe than the rivers. Probably this would be an area to put a small
watertight hatch. Any ideas----?
To Captjbturtle, I checked the idea of the ice boat with the sled
dogs and although they love Bolgers functionability and all his other
wonderful concepts, they all agreed it was too "box like" to be seen
on the rivers in winter. They thought the Bantam #653 had finer lines
and was much more suited for that purpose. With the built in wells
between the hulls the dogs thought it would be easy to ice fish
through the floor. When you finish it bring it up for the winter.
regards from the moaning chair. On the houseboat I had to deconstruct
the frames from the sides because of operator error. Fortunately it
was so cold that after 40 hours of curing the epoxy was still green
enough to break apart. After it cured a bit I am able to remove the
epoxy via an electric hand plane and some 36 grit on a 3" belt sander.
Shot with a ball of my own epoxy. A minor setback but a life lesson
that I should have known already. Happy boating
Hi -
These mark an area in the interior which is to be kept clear for
bailing -- that is the lowest point in the boat on each side. Put a
bilge pump there on each side.
Mike
These mark an area in the interior which is to be kept clear for
bailing -- that is the lowest point in the boat on each side. Put a
bilge pump there on each side.
Mike
--- In bolger@y..., "brucehallman" <brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- "Paul McLellan" > wrote [of design 481]:
> [snip]
>
> I have long been curious about the
> reason for the rectangular dashed
> lines that show in the Common
> Sense Designs catalogue?
>
> I have long been curious about theWater ballast tanks?
> reason for the rectangular dashed
> lines that show in the Common
> Sense Designs catalogue?
--- "Paul McLellan" > wrote [of design 481]:
[snip]
I have long been curious about the
reason for the rectangular dashed
lines that show in the Common
Sense Designs catalogue?
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/481/481.gif
My guess is that integral wheel
wells could be built into the
hull at these locations to either
allow pemanently mounted trailer
wheels, or to allow a lower slung
trailer to have wheel clearance.
[snip]
I have long been curious about the
reason for the rectangular dashed
lines that show in the Common
Sense Designs catalogue?
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/481/481.gif
My guess is that integral wheel
wells could be built into the
hull at these locations to either
allow pemanently mounted trailer
wheels, or to allow a lower slung
trailer to have wheel clearance.
--- In bolger@y..., "mikestockstill" <mkstocks@b...> wrote:
will be ready tomorrow and I will scan and post.
> Hi Paul -Thanks Mike and the others for the excellent suggestions. Pictures
>
> Note the transverse beams for the rockered bottom and the pontoon
> boat style bow pulpit.
>
> Happy building.
>
> Mike
>
> ps - POST SOME PHOTOS OF WHAT YOU HAVE DONE TO DATE!!
will be ready tomorrow and I will scan and post.
Hi Paul -
scrapes off with no effort.
floor anyway. What space does exist you can access from inside the
house - best to keep it free of junk I think. Use a deck box on the
outside of the deck for some storage space - they make great seats
too.
that down close to the floor. A rockered bottom like this doesn't
lend itself well to be cranked up a trailer, so you will find that
you do most of the work positioning the boat on the trailer by simply
backing the trailer down a bit further in the water. If any space
remains between the boat and the winch, just pull forward a few feet
in the parking lot and give the brakes a strong push. It will bump
the boat up the rest of the way. The winch will hold the boat on the
trailer.
For the trailer, go buy a bow pulpit as is sold for the pontoon boat
trailers. This will give you a vertical post for the winch and it is
much easier to work with. You will find it allows a great deal of
vertical adjustment too.
Photos of my trailer:
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/as19/
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/trailer/
Note the transverse beams for the rockered bottom and the pontoon
boat style bow pulpit.
Happy building.
Mike
ps - POST SOME PHOTOS OF WHAT YOU HAVE DONE TO DATE!!
> constuction is underway. Chipping of any excess with a chiselI also recommend using a heat gun - soften the epoxy slightly and it
> seems
> to work well and use of sharp scrapers when green as well as a
> shurform.
scrapes off with no effort.
> I am having some problem finding a few cheap watertight, flushYes. Don't bother. There is not much space up under the exterior
> hatches for the forward and stern watertight compartments. Any
> ideas?
floor anyway. What space does exist you can access from inside the
house - best to keep it free of junk I think. Use a deck box on the
outside of the deck for some storage space - they make great seats
too.
> Also I need some idea of putting a bow hook in for trailering andThe bow transom is a 2x6 I think - just run a bow eye right through
> retreival.
that down close to the floor. A rockered bottom like this doesn't
lend itself well to be cranked up a trailer, so you will find that
you do most of the work positioning the boat on the trailer by simply
backing the trailer down a bit further in the water. If any space
remains between the boat and the winch, just pull forward a few feet
in the parking lot and give the brakes a strong push. It will bump
the boat up the rest of the way. The winch will hold the boat on the
trailer.
For the trailer, go buy a bow pulpit as is sold for the pontoon boat
trailers. This will give you a vertical post for the winch and it is
much easier to work with. You will find it allows a great deal of
vertical adjustment too.
Photos of my trailer:
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/as19/
http://mkstocks.tripod.com/boats/martha_jane/trailer/
Note the transverse beams for the rockered bottom and the pontoon
boat style bow pulpit.
Happy building.
Mike
ps - POST SOME PHOTOS OF WHAT YOU HAVE DONE TO DATE!!
Check out
http://www.thriftymariner.com/products/access.html
for cheap hatches
brucehallman wrote:
http://www.thriftymariner.com/products/access.html
for cheap hatches
brucehallman wrote:
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Paul McLellan" <bysc@i...> wrote:
> > I am having some problem finding a few cheap watertight, flush
> > hatches for the forward and stern watertight compartments. Any
> > ideas?
>
> The Jamestown Distributors catalogue
> I got in the mail yesterday shows
> they sell a variety of deck plates
> ranging in price from $8.85 to
> $21.94.
>
> Kind of cheap it seems...
>
> www.JamestownDistributors.com
>.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul McLellan" <bysc@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 03, 2002 7:35 AM
Subject: [bolger] Houseboat #481
http://www.thriftymariner.com
Buy at own risk.
> I am having some problem finding a few cheap watertight, flush
> hatches for the forward and stern watertight compartments. Any ideas?
> Also I need some idea of putting a bow hook in for trailering and
> retreival.
--- In bolger@y..., "Paul McLellan" <bysc@i...> wrote:
I got in the mail yesterday shows
they sell a variety of deck plates
ranging in price from $8.85 to
$21.94.
Kind of cheap it seems...
www.JamestownDistributors.com
> I am having some problem finding a few cheap watertight, flushThe Jamestown Distributors catalogue
> hatches for the forward and stern watertight compartments. Any
> ideas?
I got in the mail yesterday shows
they sell a variety of deck plates
ranging in price from $8.85 to
$21.94.
Kind of cheap it seems...
www.JamestownDistributors.com
Sorry about the typo on the number. Bolger sells the plans for $150
US and is quick to respond to intelligent questions about the
building. He seems to mercifully ignore the dumb questions that you
already have the answer but haven't figured it out yet. I am
building it as designed remembering the sage advice that anytime
someone changes HIS design they regret it later. So far all of my
insecurity seems to have been in vain as the construction has been
very straignt forward. Having spent considerable time preparing the
work area has paid off in many ways including the ability to convince
someone to "lend a hand " at critical times. I expect some difficulty
in cutting the bevels for some of the bottom floor timbers but plan to
put them in place temporarily then carve the excess with an electric
plane for the final fit and gluing. I plan to do little or no
sanding on this boat after any epoxy is used. The orange peel look is
fine and I am fanatical about clean up of drips and drops as the
constuction is underway. Chipping of any excess with a chisel seems
to work well and use of sharp scrapers when green as well as a
shurform.
I am having some problem finding a few cheap watertight, flush
hatches for the forward and stern watertight compartments. Any ideas?
Also I need some idea of putting a bow hook in for trailering and
retreival.
I expect the weather to cool down considerably in Eastern ontario but
still am boating seriously between bouts of sawdust and epoxy. Last
night my wife helped me glue all the frames on the sides in
preparation for the big day Friday when the assembly begins. --------
Paul McLellan going skating with the old timeRs this morning waiting
for the epoxy and cabisol to set.
US and is quick to respond to intelligent questions about the
building. He seems to mercifully ignore the dumb questions that you
already have the answer but haven't figured it out yet. I am
building it as designed remembering the sage advice that anytime
someone changes HIS design they regret it later. So far all of my
insecurity seems to have been in vain as the construction has been
very straignt forward. Having spent considerable time preparing the
work area has paid off in many ways including the ability to convince
someone to "lend a hand " at critical times. I expect some difficulty
in cutting the bevels for some of the bottom floor timbers but plan to
put them in place temporarily then carve the excess with an electric
plane for the final fit and gluing. I plan to do little or no
sanding on this boat after any epoxy is used. The orange peel look is
fine and I am fanatical about clean up of drips and drops as the
constuction is underway. Chipping of any excess with a chisel seems
to work well and use of sharp scrapers when green as well as a
shurform.
I am having some problem finding a few cheap watertight, flush
hatches for the forward and stern watertight compartments. Any ideas?
Also I need some idea of putting a bow hook in for trailering and
retreival.
I expect the weather to cool down considerably in Eastern ontario but
still am boating seriously between bouts of sawdust and epoxy. Last
night my wife helped me glue all the frames on the sides in
preparation for the big day Friday when the assembly begins. --------
Paul McLellan going skating with the old timeRs this morning waiting
for the epoxy and cabisol to set.