Re: drawknife, spoke shave
Tyhe effectiveness of a drawknife depends on the quality of the
wood. If you get a lot fo reversing grain, it can be a nightmare,
with decent stock it is great.
There are two basic types that one sees these days, ones that have a
planner like blade, with a bevel running the width. others, and my
personal preference, have a foil section and a lower overall bevel.
There are many types, however, even among the straight ones.
wood. If you get a lot fo reversing grain, it can be a nightmare,
with decent stock it is great.
There are two basic types that one sees these days, ones that have a
planner like blade, with a bevel running the width. others, and my
personal preference, have a foil section and a lower overall bevel.
There are many types, however, even among the straight ones.
I concurr with Paul here. A good sharp drawknife is a wonder. I've
seen a cooper make an entire barrel out of a log with only an axe
(actually some sort of half axe thingy for splitting shingles) and a
drawknife. There are all different kinds for different kinds of
work, and using the wrong one can lead to big mistakes.
Sometimes I cut myself when sharpening my drawknives for some reason.
By the way, I think the best places to find good drawknives are
antique stores. Just recently, I found an awsome collection of old
tools at Joy's Antiques in Quarryville, PA. I bought a mortising
slick for $12 (the ones you find at Woodcraft are $75 and up). And if
you make the treck, there is an incredible hardwood yard in Oxford,
PA called Hearne Hardwoods,http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/
Ebay is another good place. Good drawknives regularly go for $10 -
$30.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=714465993
Frank
seen a cooper make an entire barrel out of a log with only an axe
(actually some sort of half axe thingy for splitting shingles) and a
drawknife. There are all different kinds for different kinds of
work, and using the wrong one can lead to big mistakes.
Sometimes I cut myself when sharpening my drawknives for some reason.
By the way, I think the best places to find good drawknives are
antique stores. Just recently, I found an awsome collection of old
tools at Joy's Antiques in Quarryville, PA. I bought a mortising
slick for $12 (the ones you find at Woodcraft are $75 and up). And if
you make the treck, there is an incredible hardwood yard in Oxford,
PA called Hearne Hardwoods,http://www.hearnehardwoods.com/
Ebay is another good place. Good drawknives regularly go for $10 -
$30.http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=714465993
Frank
--- In bolger@y..., "pauldayau" <wattleweedooseeds@b...> wrote:
> It stated that a drawknife is a tool of last resort. It
> > is only to be used for removing large amounts of wood. They
> implied that a
> > drawknife is inherently too difficult to control for fine work
>
>
> Sorry to disagree folks BUT, when i carved the handles on 6 oars
the
> drawknife was used from start to finish No sanding required. I also
> make all of my tool handles. ie picks, shovels, mattocks ,
> my "adze" , also belay pins.
> They just need to be sharp. eg sharp enough to shave hairs off
your
> arm , cut up meat etc
>
> . My
> > experience on the first oar verified that. :( That oar is a
> little thinner
> > than optimum in a critical location. :o :)
> >
> > Luckily last week I was able to find a spokeshave and scraper at
> the same
> > swapmeet. Once sharpened they work sweet. So keep looking for a
> > spokeshave. Good Luck.
>
>
> Inever had much luck with a spokeshave tho
> Cheers Paul
> >
> /
Howdy Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "pauldayau" <wattleweedooseeds@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 07, 2002 2:24 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: drawknife, spoke shave
> They
> implied that a
> > drawknife is inherently too difficult to control for fine work
>
>
> Sorry to disagree folks BUT, when i carved the handles on 6 oars the
> drawknife was used from start to finish No sanding required. I also
Could just be operator error on my part :)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
It stated that a drawknife is a tool of last resort. It
drawknife was used from start to finish No sanding required. I also
make all of my tool handles. ie picks, shovels, mattocks ,
my "adze" , also belay pins.
They just need to be sharp. eg sharp enough to shave hairs off your
arm , cut up meat etc
. My
Cheers Paul
> is only to be used for removing large amounts of wood. Theyimplied that a
> drawknife is inherently too difficult to control for fine workSorry to disagree folks BUT, when i carved the handles on 6 oars the
drawknife was used from start to finish No sanding required. I also
make all of my tool handles. ie picks, shovels, mattocks ,
my "adze" , also belay pins.
They just need to be sharp. eg sharp enough to shave hairs off your
arm , cut up meat etc
. My
> experience on the first oar verified that. :( That oar is alittle thinner
> than optimum in a critical location. :o :)the same
>
> Luckily last week I was able to find a spokeshave and scraper at
> swapmeet. Once sharpened they work sweet. So keep looking for aInever had much luck with a spokeshave tho
> spokeshave. Good Luck.
Cheers Paul
>/
Derek-or anybody- I'd like to learn the trick to cutting really long
tapers, such as 20', for making a birdsmouth mast. Leo
tapers, such as 20', for making a birdsmouth mast. Leo
Howdy Lincoln
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, October 05, 2002 4:03 PM
Subject: [bolger] drawknife, spoke shave
> Drawknife seems to need a lot of force, so I end
> up sliding it along with some speed, which works sort of ok except
> when it tears out at knots, even tho it's pretty sharp. Thanks.
>
> P.S. Thinking of trying to make some paddles and oars.
Looks like I'm 2 weeks ahead of you. :) I did the same thing after looking
at a $25 drawknife at the swapmeet . Should have bought it but instead when
home and made my own. I hollow ground the edge on the grinder, and was
also able to get a sharp edge. With the hollow grind the cutting angle is
pretty shallow.
After using it on the first oar, I found an old high school woodworking book
at the library auction. That book described the use and care of hand
woodworking tools. It stated that a drawknife is a tool of last resort. It
is only to be used for removing large amounts of wood. They implied that a
drawknife is inherently too difficult to control for fine work. My
experience on the first oar verified that. :( That oar is a little thinner
than optimum in a critical location. :o :)
Luckily last week I was able to find a spokeshave and scraper at the same
swapmeet. Once sharpened they work sweet. So keep looking for a
spokeshave. Good Luck.
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
Get a book at Lib. by Roy Undrehill-- The Woodright series. My draw knifes all look like a 30 -35 degree angle. Always pull the knife toward you and down on the grain of the wood (with grain). If it splits you or going the wrong way
CCG
Lincoln Ross
wrote:Gave up on finding one at reasonable cost and made a drawknife out of
an enormous old file that was round on one side. Anyone have any idea
what angle I should have ground the bevel at? Hints on use? Hints on
use of my new spoke shaves? Spokeshave tends to jump and/or oscillate
leaving little marks. Drawknife seems to need a lot of force, so I end
up sliding it along with some speed, which works sort of ok except
when it tears out at knots, even tho it's pretty sharp. Thanks.
P.S. Thinking of trying to make some paddles and oars.
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more
faith.yahoo.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
CCG
Lincoln Ross
wrote:Gave up on finding one at reasonable cost and made a drawknife out of
an enormous old file that was round on one side. Anyone have any idea
what angle I should have ground the bevel at? Hints on use? Hints on
use of my new spoke shaves? Spokeshave tends to jump and/or oscillate
leaving little marks. Drawknife seems to need a lot of force, so I end
up sliding it along with some speed, which works sort of ok except
when it tears out at knots, even tho it's pretty sharp. Thanks.
P.S. Thinking of trying to make some paddles and oars.
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more
faith.yahoo.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
with no final bevel.
This is how I discovered it under a pile of hay in a workshop of a
coach station that had closed during WW1 after over 50 years of use.
It is the sharpest meanest cutting tool I've got. It cuts knots to
a smooth finish. Ehen using it I give it a touch every 10 mins or so
with a wet , fine hone that is supposed to be for grinding glass
fish tanks.
The angle may seem fine , but I bought an axe that was 35 degrees
and i ground it back to 20 degrees to get it sharp.
cheers Paul
> Gave up on finding one at reasonable cost and made a drawknife outof
> an enormous old file that was round on one side. Anyone have anyidea
> what angle I should have ground the bevel at? Hints on use? Hintson
> use of my new spoke shaves? Spokeshave tends to jump and/oroscillate
> leaving little marks. Drawknife seems to need a lot of force, so Iend
> up sliding it along with some speed, which works sort of ok exceptI just got my drawknife out of the shed and measured it. 16 degrees.
> when it tears out at knots, even tho it's pretty sharp. Thanks.
>
> P.S. Thinking of trying to make some paddles and oars.
with no final bevel.
This is how I discovered it under a pile of hay in a workshop of a
coach station that had closed during WW1 after over 50 years of use.
It is the sharpest meanest cutting tool I've got. It cuts knots to
a smooth finish. Ehen using it I give it a touch every 10 mins or so
with a wet , fine hone that is supposed to be for grinding glass
fish tanks.
The angle may seem fine , but I bought an axe that was 35 degrees
and i ground it back to 20 degrees to get it sharp.
cheers Paul
http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/assets/html/homepage.asp
Try these folks
Eric
--- Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
Try these folks
Eric
--- Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
> Gave up on finding one at reasonable cost and made a__________________________________________________
> drawknife out of
> an enormous old file that was round on one side.
> Anyone have any idea
> what angle I should have ground the bevel at? Hints
> on use? Hints on
> use of my new spoke shaves? Spokeshave tends to jump
> and/or oscillate
> leaving little marks. Drawknife seems to need a lot
> of force, so I end
> up sliding it along with some speed, which works
> sort of ok except
> when it tears out at knots, even tho it's pretty
> sharp. Thanks.
>
> P.S. Thinking of trying to make some paddles and
> oars.
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos & More
http://faith.yahoo.com
Hi Lincoln
My drawknife came ground to 35 degrees, and I put a microbevel on that, so
maybe 36 degrees. Sounds a lot, and I went out to the shop to check it. Yup,
35 / 36 it is. If you haven't already done so, add handles somehow (bolt
short sections of bar to the ends?). It will be hard to control the angle of
attack otherwise. Viewed from above the drawknife shouldn't be at 90 degrees
to the direction of cut - try about 30 degrees to start with.
Once upon a time (before some scummy burglar made off with it) I used to own
a "push knife". Swedish steel, cheaper than dirt from Lee Valley, it was a
great tool. Their blurb waxes a bit lyrical describing it as being all
things to all folk, from a hatchet to a spokeshave. Snake oil
notwithstanding, it was a handy item.
'Budget' spokeshaves are a nightmare to set up and tune (IMO). Assuming the
blade is really really sharp, the sort of 'chatter' you describe usually
means that the blade is not being properly clamped and supported - the short
body of these tools really emphasises poor manufacturing tolerances.
** required Bolger content**
Tonight we (finally) laid up the birdsmouth mast for our Navigator-rigged
Micro. Nearly at the end of the gluing season here, but looking good!
Cheers
Derek
My drawknife came ground to 35 degrees, and I put a microbevel on that, so
maybe 36 degrees. Sounds a lot, and I went out to the shop to check it. Yup,
35 / 36 it is. If you haven't already done so, add handles somehow (bolt
short sections of bar to the ends?). It will be hard to control the angle of
attack otherwise. Viewed from above the drawknife shouldn't be at 90 degrees
to the direction of cut - try about 30 degrees to start with.
Once upon a time (before some scummy burglar made off with it) I used to own
a "push knife". Swedish steel, cheaper than dirt from Lee Valley, it was a
great tool. Their blurb waxes a bit lyrical describing it as being all
things to all folk, from a hatchet to a spokeshave. Snake oil
notwithstanding, it was a handy item.
'Budget' spokeshaves are a nightmare to set up and tune (IMO). Assuming the
blade is really really sharp, the sort of 'chatter' you describe usually
means that the blade is not being properly clamped and supported - the short
body of these tools really emphasises poor manufacturing tolerances.
** required Bolger content**
Tonight we (finally) laid up the birdsmouth mast for our Navigator-rigged
Micro. Nearly at the end of the gluing season here, but looking good!
Cheers
Derek
Gave up on finding one at reasonable cost and made a drawknife out of
an enormous old file that was round on one side. Anyone have any idea
what angle I should have ground the bevel at? Hints on use? Hints on
use of my new spoke shaves? Spokeshave tends to jump and/or oscillate
leaving little marks. Drawknife seems to need a lot of force, so I end
up sliding it along with some speed, which works sort of ok except
when it tears out at knots, even tho it's pretty sharp. Thanks.
P.S. Thinking of trying to make some paddles and oars.
an enormous old file that was round on one side. Anyone have any idea
what angle I should have ground the bevel at? Hints on use? Hints on
use of my new spoke shaves? Spokeshave tends to jump and/or oscillate
leaving little marks. Drawknife seems to need a lot of force, so I end
up sliding it along with some speed, which works sort of ok except
when it tears out at knots, even tho it's pretty sharp. Thanks.
P.S. Thinking of trying to make some paddles and oars.