Re: Trailer stuff - OT

FWIW in my experience, good corrosion treatments do not make good
lubricants. I'd stick to the reccomended waterproof EP extreme
pressure greese in the bearing, anti-seize is good on studs, but
torque correctly, and use a fluid film rust protection on the
trailler (bolts, fittings, wheels, electrics, etc) Rust Check in
Canada, Corrosion Block from West Marine in the sunny south.
Could it be a lithium grease. That stuff is good in the water.
My experience with "Neversieze", the brand of silver anti-sieze goop
I cover myself with, is that it is zinc based. As a result it works
very well with heat intensified corrosion, but is not so hot with
electrolysis (metal wet with salt water). I have had better luck
with Teflon based lubes when I want things to slip and with Loc-tite
when I need the things to stay put.

Best,

George W.

> > I do use Antisieze on just about everything (That my safety does
not
> ride
> > on). One of the best places that I have found it useful have
been
> on the
> > O2 sensors, as well I use it on exhaust clamps, and just about
> anywhere
> > else where heat increases the rusting process.
In my experience, the service manual for any heavy duty product (like
cars, engines, etc. and of course I assume marine engines) specifies
torque range to be used when tightening all important bolts, so I'm
kinda surprised if Chevy dropped the ball on this. Something to watch
for when you're fixing up that diesel that's going to push you off of
a lee shore someday. (Or on ANYTHING on your boat that is bolted metal
to metal. You may have to do a little digging if the value isn't in a
manual. I forget where the values are found, but they're out there. I
used to be able to calculate what these values should be.) Per blurb
for that anti seize I mentioned yesterday, with their stuff you
probably need to use 20% LESS torque to avoid overstressing things. It
might be in Machinery's Handbook.

Ok, now I remember, I think. You take the torque divided by the pitch
dia, divide by coefficient of friction (0.3, as I recall, is not far
off), divide by cross section to minor dia (i.e. pir^2 for minor dia),
and compare to strength of bolt material. Also take the force (not
divided by area of bolt cross section) and divide by area at pitch dia
of 3 threads or so (I think), I'm a little foggy on this part, and
compare to strength of material the inside threads are in.
Unfortunately, I don't remember exactly what fraction of the yield
strength is best, but I think it is supposed to be substantial. I
suppose by this point no one is following as you either know what I'm
talking about or I'm not explaining very well.

(P.S. I need a job doing this stuff so it doesn't pile up until it
leaks out here.)
--- In bolger@y..., "Michial Thompson (At Work)" <michialt@u...>
wrote:
> I've never had problems with the Spark Plugs and the Antisieze. It
was
> with the Exhaust Studs that I had problems. There are no
"specified"
> torque ratings for the Headers. Headers are notorious for causing
the
> studs to back out without help the antisieze just made the problem
more
> frequent.
>
> I would never use it on lug nuts, I would rather break the stud than
take
> even the remote chance that the lugs would back off.
>
> I do use Antisieze on just about everything (That my safety does not
ride
> on). One of the best places that I have found it useful have been
on the
> O2 sensors, as well I use it on exhaust clamps, and just about
anywhere
> else where heat increases the rusting process.
>
> At 06:50 PM 10/8/2002 +0000, you wrote:
> >My spark plugs and wheel nuts have all stayed put. But then none of
> >them were brand new when I added anti seize. I believe there are
some
> >medium strength threadlocking compounds which are supposed to
prevent
> >corrosion as well, don't know about temperature rating. Did you use
> >specified torque?
> >--- In bolger@y..., "Michial Thompson (At Work)" <michialt@u...>
> >wrote:
> > > That stuff works too good on exhaust studs. I put it on a set
of
> >exhaust
> > > studs for headers on a Vette, and after replacing the studs 3
> >different
> > > times because they kept backing out, I ended up drilling the
heads
> >and
> > > running safe tie wire to keep them from backing out.
> > >
> > > Be careful using on things where your safety is at risk of the
nuts
> >back
> > > out, especially on lug nuts.
> > >
> > > I was given a bottle of this specifically for using on the spark
> >plugs of
> > > my airplane.
> >snip
> >
> >
> >
> >Bolger rules!!!
> >- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> >- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> >- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
away
> >- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA,
> >01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> >- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> >- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> >Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- In bolger@y..., "wmrpage" <wmrpage@a...> wrote:
Does anyone have
> any idea what the appropriate "goop" for this application is?

I have never had a problem with anti-sieze on lug nut threads. It
is "anti-sieze" not "anti-friction". I think it has better corrosion
protection and longer life than grease but it is not primarily a
lubricant.

>
>
> The hubs on this trailer are threaded for bolts, rather than having
> studs and lug nuts. Does anyone
> know if there are double-threaded studs and lug nuts available
which
> would thread into the existing threads of the hub and provide
threaded
> studs for the wheels?

If you do not have brakes, you should be able to put a fine thread
bolt in from the back side. Use a full thread bolt that is the length
of the lug bolt plus the flange thickness and tighten the head
against the back side of the flange. Grade 5 or grade 8 will work.

Charles
I've never had problems with the Spark Plugs and the Antisieze. It was
with the Exhaust Studs that I had problems. There are no "specified"
torque ratings for the Headers. Headers are notorious for causing the
studs to back out without help the antisieze just made the problem more
frequent.

I would never use it on lug nuts, I would rather break the stud than take
even the remote chance that the lugs would back off.

I do use Antisieze on just about everything (That my safety does not ride
on). One of the best places that I have found it useful have been on the
O2 sensors, as well I use it on exhaust clamps, and just about anywhere
else where heat increases the rusting process.

At 06:50 PM 10/8/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>My spark plugs and wheel nuts have all stayed put. But then none of
>them were brand new when I added anti seize. I believe there are some
>medium strength threadlocking compounds which are supposed to prevent
>corrosion as well, don't know about temperature rating. Did you use
>specified torque?
>--- In bolger@y..., "Michial Thompson (At Work)" <michialt@u...>
>wrote:
> > That stuff works too good on exhaust studs. I put it on a set of
>exhaust
> > studs for headers on a Vette, and after replacing the studs 3
>different
> > times because they kept backing out, I ended up drilling the heads
>and
> > running safe tie wire to keep them from backing out.
> >
> > Be careful using on things where your safety is at risk of the nuts
>back
> > out, especially on lug nuts.
> >
> > I was given a bottle of this specifically for using on the spark
>plugs of
> > my airplane.
>snip
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
My spark plugs and wheel nuts have all stayed put. But then none of
them were brand new when I added anti seize. I believe there are some
medium strength threadlocking compounds which are supposed to prevent
corrosion as well, don't know about temperature rating. Did you use
specified torque?
--- In bolger@y..., "Michial Thompson (At Work)" <michialt@u...>
wrote:
> That stuff works too good on exhaust studs. I put it on a set of
exhaust
> studs for headers on a Vette, and after replacing the studs 3
different
> times because they kept backing out, I ended up drilling the heads
and
> running safe tie wire to keep them from backing out.
>
> Be careful using on things where your safety is at risk of the nuts
back
> out, especially on lug nuts.
>
> I was given a bottle of this specifically for using on the spark
plugs of
> my airplane.
snip
That stuff works too good on exhaust studs. I put it on a set of exhaust
studs for headers on a Vette, and after replacing the studs 3 different
times because they kept backing out, I ended up drilling the heads and
running safe tie wire to keep them from backing out.

Be careful using on things where your safety is at risk of the nuts back
out, especially on lug nuts.

I was given a bottle of this specifically for using on the spark plugs of
my airplane.

At 10:08 AM 10/8/2002 -0400, you wrote:
>My second biggest hobby is working on my aging motorcycle. I have a jar of
>anti-sieze that I've had forever, it's silver in color, appears to have
>aluminum (or something) powder in a base of some kind of grease. It comes in
>a plastic jar with a little flux brush attached to the inside of the lid,
>ready to go. As Lincoln said, it even works on exhausts (and spark plugs).
>It's very high-temperature stuff, and boy is it great, really does what the
>name implies, especially if you do as he recommends and re-coat on some
>regular interval. I always put it on wheel bolts when rotating car tires,
>and never have a problem getting them off. The only very minor drawback that
>I've noticed is that it seems to have a remarkable propensity for getting
>where you don't want it - hands, clothes, face, etc. and the shiny silver
>color really makes it noticeable. I always make a point of getting into my
>greasemonkey clothes before reaching for this stuff, cuz no matter how
>careful I am, I know I'll wind up wearing it.
>
>I would also guess that the creamy stuff you found on the bolts was some
>kind of grease; just make sure it's high-temp grease so it won't melt as
>your bearings heat up, and get flung elsewhere by the centrifugal force of
>the wheel spinning. This is important to keep it where it'll do the most
>good, but is also tremendously important when using it near any exposed
>brake surfaces, such as on a car. Any hi-temp bearing grease (like what you
>probably have to shoot into your bearing buddies) should serve just fine if
>you don't want a special jar of silver goo to add to your shelves.
>
>Paul Lefebvre
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
My second biggest hobby is working on my aging motorcycle. I have a jar of
anti-sieze that I've had forever, it's silver in color, appears to have
aluminum (or something) powder in a base of some kind of grease. It comes in
a plastic jar with a little flux brush attached to the inside of the lid,
ready to go. As Lincoln said, it even works on exhausts (and spark plugs).
It's very high-temperature stuff, and boy is it great, really does what the
name implies, especially if you do as he recommends and re-coat on some
regular interval. I always put it on wheel bolts when rotating car tires,
and never have a problem getting them off. The only very minor drawback that
I've noticed is that it seems to have a remarkable propensity for getting
where you don't want it - hands, clothes, face, etc. and the shiny silver
color really makes it noticeable. I always make a point of getting into my
greasemonkey clothes before reaching for this stuff, cuz no matter how
careful I am, I know I'll wind up wearing it.

I would also guess that the creamy stuff you found on the bolts was some
kind of grease; just make sure it's high-temp grease so it won't melt as
your bearings heat up, and get flung elsewhere by the centrifugal force of
the wheel spinning. This is important to keep it where it'll do the most
good, but is also tremendously important when using it near any exposed
brake surfaces, such as on a car. Any hi-temp bearing grease (like what you
probably have to shoot into your bearing buddies) should serve just fine if
you don't want a special jar of silver goo to add to your shelves.

Paul Lefebvre
I have SOME idea. It was probably some variety of anti seize compound.
You can find some flavor of this at car parts places or fancy hardware
stores. The only anti-seize I've seen that was near that color was
wjote and rated for food purposes. It was from STL Compound Corp.
Phone on package is (630)953-1515, not sure about heat rating. We
used it because it was non-conductive, unlike the usual car stuff,
which contains metal and is silver colored. It's probably a good idea
not only to use anti seize compound but to unscrew the bolts and put
them back in now and then with more anti seize, or at least budge
them(say every year or two?????).

I'm supposing it's possible they just used some kind of grease, which
I've seen in that color. Anti seize compound, at least the kind in car
parts stores, will take more heat than grease. I think it is supposed
to be usable even on exhast pipe stuff.

A friend of mine who was a mechanic used to put anti seize on any
threads he took apart, especially on his own car. It's too bad all the
manufactured items we get that will be out in the weather don't get
this treatment. I'll bet it would be a real good idea to use on
rigging and that kind of thing.

If there's some kind of brake, don't get any of this goop in it.
--- In bolger@y..., "wmrpage" <wmrpage@a...> wrote:
> I replaced some very badly corroded wheels on a 20 yr. old E-Z
Loader
> trailer this summer. I was VERY pleasantly surprised to find the the
> wheel bolts were NOT corroded frozen. Inspection of the bolts seemed
> to indicate traces of some cream-colored(?) "goop" that had been
> smeared on the threads at some time. I'm assuming that the lack of
> corrosion was the successful result of using this "goop". I'd like
to
> achieve similar results with my fancy new wheels. Does anyone have
> any idea what the appropriate "goop" for this application is?
snip
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
I replaced some very badly corroded wheels on a 20 yr. old E-Z Loader
trailer this summer. I was VERY pleasantly surprised to find the the
wheel bolts were NOT corroded frozen. Inspection of the bolts seemed
to indicate traces of some cream-colored(?) "goop" that had been
smeared on the threads at some time. I'm assuming that the lack of
corrosion was the successful result of using this "goop". I'd like to
achieve similar results with my fancy new wheels. Does anyone have
any idea what the appropriate "goop" for this application is?

The care and feeding of a trailer of any description is a new
responsibility for me. I consider myself a master of car-topping, but
I'm exploring new territory (for me)here!Any suggestions on useful
reading on the topic? I've read what Michalak has to say about bunks,
goalposts,etc. That is stuff I fancy I could pretty much figure out
by myself. I'm more concerned about what I don't know about trailers
in general: inspection, lubrication and adjustment of wheel
bearings, "goop" on wheel bolts and the sort of stuff one needs to
know to go safely down the road.

The hubs on this trailer are threaded for bolts, rather than having
studs and lug nuts. Based on my experience changing the wheels on a
dry, level concrete floor inside a well-lit shop, I'd venture to
guess that changing a tire outside, in the dark, wet and cold, by the
side of the road, would be a challenging task. West Marine has hub
sets with the studs, but my hubs, bearings and "Bearing Buddies"
seem, at least as far as I can tell, to be in good shape. Does anyone
know if there are double-threaded studs and lug nuts available which
would thread into the existing threads of the hub and provide threaded
studs for the wheels? This would seem technically feasible, but if
they had to be custom-machined, buying replacement hubs would be a
much cheaper route, I'm sure.

BTW, I purchased my new wheels and tires from a FleetFarm store. It
had a wide selection of mounted tires on replacement rims for about
1/2 the cost of similar sizes and ratings as those offered by West
Marine, not including shipping cost. I don't know if the quality is
comparable or not. Mine are white spoked jobs with patriotic red and
blue pinstripes around the rims. Very spiffy looking!

Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN