Re: [bolger] Dakota Album Update
Vince,
Perhaps you could add the Dakota's spec's to the database. That's too fine a boat you're making there to not let folks look up more about her. (Besides, I don't know how many times I've gone to the db for a quick refresh on her numbers, only to be thwarted. But at least I have paper plans from PCB and I can pull them out for a gander:).
Once again, looking good.
Stew
Perhaps you could add the Dakota's spec's to the database. That's too fine a boat you're making there to not let folks look up more about her. (Besides, I don't know how many times I've gone to the db for a quick refresh on her numbers, only to be thwarted. But at least I have paper plans from PCB and I can pull them out for a gander:).
Once again, looking good.
Stew
Howdy
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 5:08 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Dakota Album Update
> and drills can do a real job on it, especially if not special type of
> drill bit. I don't know about relative UV performance between Lexan
You can easily modify a regular metal cutting twist drill bit to cut
plastic. Just grind a small area at the cutting edge so that it is in line
with the long axis of the drill bit. That flat curls up the plastic shaving
and prevents the drill from digging into the plastic. Next time you are at
the hardware store take a look at the drills meant for plastic
Good Luck
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
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`
end
Glass is brittle while Lexan is not. I always tape both sides of my
cut line with masking tape to prevent any chipping in Plexiglas or
lexan. Even over the paper covering it comes packed in. I always use
box joints if the frame is going to be of wood. Then I use a liberal
amount of fish tank adhesive to mount the material so if it is
removed it must be from the outside.
When it comes to Plexiglas or lexan I always use a half to one inch
overlap bed in the window frame side That way if enough force is
exerted in the center the (plastic) material will not be forced off
its mounting surface. The real benefit between glass Lexan or
Plexiglas is weight savings. Plastic is much lighter than glass but
glass is dense. Also very few makers of glass do so without lead
content. Double glazed glass with plastic core is safety glass. The
last time I was in an accident the shards from that glass popped an
expanding airbag. I don't think it should be called safety glass. If
it is a window that can't be opened the put a storable awning for it
on the out side, less UV and the window heating factor wll be minimal.
You have an excellent boat! No matter how you install the windows or
decorate the interior your Dakota looks wonderful and the way you
built it should provide years of enjoyment. I find myself being
jealous but may your Dakota exceed your expectations and may your
shop sailing be limited now.
cut line with masking tape to prevent any chipping in Plexiglas or
lexan. Even over the paper covering it comes packed in. I always use
box joints if the frame is going to be of wood. Then I use a liberal
amount of fish tank adhesive to mount the material so if it is
removed it must be from the outside.
When it comes to Plexiglas or lexan I always use a half to one inch
overlap bed in the window frame side That way if enough force is
exerted in the center the (plastic) material will not be forced off
its mounting surface. The real benefit between glass Lexan or
Plexiglas is weight savings. Plastic is much lighter than glass but
glass is dense. Also very few makers of glass do so without lead
content. Double glazed glass with plastic core is safety glass. The
last time I was in an accident the shards from that glass popped an
expanding airbag. I don't think it should be called safety glass. If
it is a window that can't be opened the put a storable awning for it
on the out side, less UV and the window heating factor wll be minimal.
You have an excellent boat! No matter how you install the windows or
decorate the interior your Dakota looks wonderful and the way you
built it should provide years of enjoyment. I find myself being
jealous but may your Dakota exceed your expectations and may your
shop sailing be limited now.
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> I found in automotive experience that RainX made things worse below
30
> or 40mph. Of course the friend who introduced me to it never went
that
> slowly!
>
> I'm pretty sure that Lexan is NOT hard, just tough. I've played
with
> it and made some engineering prototype gadgets with it. It is VERY
> tough. THin sections especially don't get up to a strain rate that
> will propagate cracks easily (at least I think I recall that strain
> rate is the issue). You can hit 1/8" Lexan with a hammer (not sure
how
> hard, but I've seen it stop window breaking burglars, or at least
> I've seen the aftermath (glass was on outside)). THicker Lexan
> sections might be more vulnerable to point impact but I perhaps
will
> be very resistant to waves. Lexan will be much easier to install,
too,
> as you don't have to worry about cracking it. Just keep your
cutting
> (or drilling?) slow so it doesn't melt and fuse to your cutting
tools,
> which can do a real job, for instance, on a bandsaw blade. Acrylic
> glazing is very easy to crack. You can score and break it like
glass,
> and drills can do a real job on it, especially if not special type
of
> drill bit. I don't know about relative UV performance between Lexan
> and Plexiglass (aka acrylic).
>
> Glass is hard.
> --- In bolger@y..., "John Cupp" <caj@k...> wrote:
> >
> > I use the best professional plastic polish that can make old
> plastic
> > windows look like new. snip
> > If you do use glass then use rain-X
> > the chemical window wiper. snip
> > --- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
> > >
> > > You might also look into Lexan -brand name for polycarbonate.
Its
> > harder and even bullet proof. In any case never use windex with
> > ammonia on any plasic, it will fog it
> > > CCG
> snipd]
Used to demonstrate the toughness of Lexan safety glass lenses (slightly more than 1/8" ) by letting the students try to break them with a ball peen hammer on the sidewalk. The Lexan always survived ( did not "break" ). Kids liked wearing their glasses after that. Scratches about as easily as plexiglass, though.
Richard
rate is the issue). You can hit 1/8" Lexan with a hammer (not sure how
hard, but I've seen it stop window breaking burglars, or at least
I've seen the aftermath (glass was on outside)). THicker Lexan
sections might be more vulnerable to point impact but I perhaps will
be very resistant to waves. Lexan will be much easier to install, too,
as you don't have to worry about cracking it. Just keep your cutting
(or drilling?) slow so it doesn't melt and fuse to your cutting tools,
which can do a real job, for instance, on a bandsaw blade. Acrylic
glazing is very easy to crack. You can score and break it like glass,
and drills can do a real job on it, especially if not special type of
drill bit. I don't know about relative UV performance between Lexan
and Plexiglass (aka acrylic).
Glass is hard.
Richard
rate is the issue). You can hit 1/8" Lexan with a hammer (not sure how
hard, but I've seen it stop window breaking burglars, or at least
I've seen the aftermath (glass was on outside)). THicker Lexan
sections might be more vulnerable to point impact but I perhaps will
be very resistant to waves. Lexan will be much easier to install, too,
as you don't have to worry about cracking it. Just keep your cutting
(or drilling?) slow so it doesn't melt and fuse to your cutting tools,
which can do a real job, for instance, on a bandsaw blade. Acrylic
glazing is very easy to crack. You can score and break it like glass,
and drills can do a real job on it, especially if not special type of
drill bit. I don't know about relative UV performance between Lexan
and Plexiglass (aka acrylic).
Glass is hard.
--- In bolger@y..., "John Cupp" <caj@k...> wrote:
>
> I use the best professional plastic polish that can make old
plastic
> windows look like new. snip
> If you do use glass then use rain-X
> the chemical window wiper. snip
> --- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
> >
> > You might also look into Lexan -brand name for polycarbonate. Its
> harder and even bullet proof. In any case never use windex with
> ammonia on any plasic, it will fog it
> > CCG
snipd]
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
We have the same problem on the helicopters. We fly in the rain for
hours and the RainX works so well it is almost like there is no rain.
From 30-40 kts on down you have to turn to the windshield wiper.
HJ
Lincoln Ross wrote:
hours and the RainX works so well it is almost like there is no rain.
From 30-40 kts on down you have to turn to the windshield wiper.
HJ
Lincoln Ross wrote:
>
> I found in automotive experience that RainX made things worse below 30
> or 40mph. Of course the friend who introduced me to it never went that
> slowly!
>
I found in automotive experience that RainX made things worse below 30
or 40mph. Of course the friend who introduced me to it never went that
slowly!
I'm pretty sure that Lexan is NOT hard, just tough. I've played with
it and made some engineering prototype gadgets with it. It is VERY
tough. THin sections especially don't get up to a strain rate that
will propagate cracks easily (at least I think I recall that strain
rate is the issue). You can hit 1/8" Lexan with a hammer (not sure how
hard, but I've seen it stop window breaking burglars, or at least
I've seen the aftermath (glass was on outside)). THicker Lexan
sections might be more vulnerable to point impact but I perhaps will
be very resistant to waves. Lexan will be much easier to install, too,
as you don't have to worry about cracking it. Just keep your cutting
(or drilling?) slow so it doesn't melt and fuse to your cutting tools,
which can do a real job, for instance, on a bandsaw blade. Acrylic
glazing is very easy to crack. You can score and break it like glass,
and drills can do a real job on it, especially if not special type of
drill bit. I don't know about relative UV performance between Lexan
and Plexiglass (aka acrylic).
Glass is hard.
or 40mph. Of course the friend who introduced me to it never went that
slowly!
I'm pretty sure that Lexan is NOT hard, just tough. I've played with
it and made some engineering prototype gadgets with it. It is VERY
tough. THin sections especially don't get up to a strain rate that
will propagate cracks easily (at least I think I recall that strain
rate is the issue). You can hit 1/8" Lexan with a hammer (not sure how
hard, but I've seen it stop window breaking burglars, or at least
I've seen the aftermath (glass was on outside)). THicker Lexan
sections might be more vulnerable to point impact but I perhaps will
be very resistant to waves. Lexan will be much easier to install, too,
as you don't have to worry about cracking it. Just keep your cutting
(or drilling?) slow so it doesn't melt and fuse to your cutting tools,
which can do a real job, for instance, on a bandsaw blade. Acrylic
glazing is very easy to crack. You can score and break it like glass,
and drills can do a real job on it, especially if not special type of
drill bit. I don't know about relative UV performance between Lexan
and Plexiglass (aka acrylic).
Glass is hard.
--- In bolger@y..., "John Cupp" <caj@k...> wrote:
>
> I use the best professional plastic polish that can make old
plastic
> windows look like new. snip
> If you do use glass then use rain-X
> the chemical window wiper. snip
> --- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
> >
> > You might also look into Lexan -brand name for polycarbonate. Its
> harder and even bullet proof. In any case never use windex with
> ammonia on any plasic, it will fog it
> > CCG
snipd]
I use the best professional plastic polish that can make old plastic
windows look like new. I even use it on my plastic bifocal lenses. I
use it on my helmet face shield. If you do use glass then use rain-X
the chemical window wiper. The plastic polish is made by Meguiars. It
is mirror glaze 10 professional plastic polish. No streaks, not to
much work and very clear plastic. Try it you'll like it.
John
windows look like new. I even use it on my plastic bifocal lenses. I
use it on my helmet face shield. If you do use glass then use rain-X
the chemical window wiper. The plastic polish is made by Meguiars. It
is mirror glaze 10 professional plastic polish. No streaks, not to
much work and very clear plastic. Try it you'll like it.
John
--- In bolger@y..., Chance Curtis <sneakeasy2002@y...> wrote:
>
> You might also look into Lexan -brand name for polycarbonate. Its
harder and even bullet proof. In any case never use windex with
ammonia on any plasic, it will fog it
> CCG
> Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:Peter,
>
> The Dakota plans and building key cover the hull without any cabin.
There is
> a drawing of the cabin with no key provided. The accomodation is
pretty much
> up to the builder.
>
> I am not insulatin the cabin sides, but I do have Celotex foam w/
two-sided
> aluminum foil facing on parts of the lower hull such as outboard of
water
> tanks, and inside of lockers. The purpose is as much for radar
reflection as
> for insulation.
>
> I plan to use acrylic plastic for windows except for laminated
glass in the
> small forward facing windows. I have been thinking that all windows
will be
> fixed. That could change when I actually get into installing them.
It might
> be handy and pleasant to have opening side windows beside the helm
and
> passenger seats. However, with flow-through ventilation when cabin
doars are
> open, and the forward cockpit only a step away, it might not be
worth the
> extra complexity and potential for leaks.
>
> Vince Chew
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester,
MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
>
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>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
You might also look into Lexan -brand name for polycarbonate. Its harder and even bullet proof. In any case never use windex with ammonia on any plasic, it will fog it
CCG
Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@...> wrote:Peter,
The Dakota plans and building key cover the hull without any cabin. There is
a drawing of the cabin with no key provided. The accomodation is pretty much
up to the builder.
I am not insulatin the cabin sides, but I do have Celotex foam w/ two-sided
aluminum foil facing on parts of the lower hull such as outboard of water
tanks, and inside of lockers. The purpose is as much for radar reflection as
for insulation.
I plan to use acrylic plastic for windows except for laminated glass in the
small forward facing windows. I have been thinking that all windows will be
fixed. That could change when I actually get into installing them. It might
be handy and pleasant to have opening side windows beside the helm and
passenger seats. However, with flow-through ventilation when cabin doars are
open, and the forward cockpit only a step away, it might not be worth the
extra complexity and potential for leaks.
Vince Chew
Yahoo! Groups SponsorADVERTISEMENT
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
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Faith Hill - Exclusive Performances, Videos, & more
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
CCG
Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@...> wrote:Peter,
The Dakota plans and building key cover the hull without any cabin. There is
a drawing of the cabin with no key provided. The accomodation is pretty much
up to the builder.
I am not insulatin the cabin sides, but I do have Celotex foam w/ two-sided
aluminum foil facing on parts of the lower hull such as outboard of water
tanks, and inside of lockers. The purpose is as much for radar reflection as
for insulation.
I plan to use acrylic plastic for windows except for laminated glass in the
small forward facing windows. I have been thinking that all windows will be
fixed. That could change when I actually get into installing them. It might
be handy and pleasant to have opening side windows beside the helm and
passenger seats. However, with flow-through ventilation when cabin doars are
open, and the forward cockpit only a step away, it might not be worth the
extra complexity and potential for leaks.
Vince Chew
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Peter,
The Dakota plans and building key cover the hull without any cabin. There is
a drawing of the cabin with no key provided. The accomodation is pretty much
up to the builder.
I am not insulatin the cabin sides, but I do have Celotex foam w/ two-sided
aluminum foil facing on parts of the lower hull such as outboard of water
tanks, and inside of lockers. The purpose is as much for radar reflection as
for insulation.
I plan to use acrylic plastic for windows except for laminated glass in the
small forward facing windows. I have been thinking that all windows will be
fixed. That could change when I actually get into installing them. It might
be handy and pleasant to have opening side windows beside the helm and
passenger seats. However, with flow-through ventilation when cabin doars are
open, and the forward cockpit only a step away, it might not be worth the
extra complexity and potential for leaks.
Vince Chew
The Dakota plans and building key cover the hull without any cabin. There is
a drawing of the cabin with no key provided. The accomodation is pretty much
up to the builder.
I am not insulatin the cabin sides, but I do have Celotex foam w/ two-sided
aluminum foil facing on parts of the lower hull such as outboard of water
tanks, and inside of lockers. The purpose is as much for radar reflection as
for insulation.
I plan to use acrylic plastic for windows except for laminated glass in the
small forward facing windows. I have been thinking that all windows will be
fixed. That could change when I actually get into installing them. It might
be handy and pleasant to have opening side windows beside the helm and
passenger seats. However, with flow-through ventilation when cabin doars are
open, and the forward cockpit only a step away, it might not be worth the
extra complexity and potential for leaks.
Vince Chew
Hi Vince,
Holy smokes! What a beautiful chunk of work you've done there!!
Ain't that MDO just about the nicest stuff to work with?! I like the
way you've done your roof.Is this per plan or did you add the camber
or crown yourself? Also,in light of all that insulation on the roof
top,do you intend on doing the cabin walls also?Hmmm....lets see here
what else do I want to know.....oh yes!...how do you plan on doing
your windows and with what? That is,are they out of glass,double
insulated,opening or fixed?
Sorry for the dis-jointed questions but these are all things that
I too will have to address next spring for the WINDERMERE I am
doing.Some pictures of which you can find in the files section of
Bolger2.
Anyway Vince,great bit of work and a wonderful boost of
encouragement for me(and others?!)....I look forward to seeing more
of your wonderful pictures of the work in progress!Perhaps one day
your Dakota and my Windermere will cross paths on some lovely stretch
of water!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,wishing like hell that he had a heated indoor building
shop to work off all the excitement caused by Vinces' latest
pictures,along the shores of the mighty cold St.Lawrence......
Holy smokes! What a beautiful chunk of work you've done there!!
Ain't that MDO just about the nicest stuff to work with?! I like the
way you've done your roof.Is this per plan or did you add the camber
or crown yourself? Also,in light of all that insulation on the roof
top,do you intend on doing the cabin walls also?Hmmm....lets see here
what else do I want to know.....oh yes!...how do you plan on doing
your windows and with what? That is,are they out of glass,double
insulated,opening or fixed?
Sorry for the dis-jointed questions but these are all things that
I too will have to address next spring for the WINDERMERE I am
doing.Some pictures of which you can find in the files section of
Bolger2.
Anyway Vince,great bit of work and a wonderful boost of
encouragement for me(and others?!)....I look forward to seeing more
of your wonderful pictures of the work in progress!Perhaps one day
your Dakota and my Windermere will cross paths on some lovely stretch
of water!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,wishing like hell that he had a heated indoor building
shop to work off all the excitement caused by Vinces' latest
pictures,along the shores of the mighty cold St.Lawrence......
--- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> I have added a few photos to the album "Vince's Dakota" in the
Bolger Photos
> section.
>
> Vince Chew
I have added a few photos to the album "Vince's Dakota" in the Bolger Photos
section.
Vince Chew
section.
Vince Chew