Re: June Bug Shoe

I built a Junebug pretty much as designed and had some problems with
the 1/4" superply bottom. I trailer my boat, which may be harder
service than your boat will see. Originally I had the trailer bunks
running fore and aft and this ended up hammering the bottom so badly
that it cracked and eventually leaked. Last winter I replaced the
entire bottom with 3/8" Occume 5-ply marine plywood. Both sides of
the plywood were covered with 4 oz fg cloth set in WEST epoxy. The
exterior of the bottom is coated with WEST epoxy mixed with their
graphite powder. It seems tough and looks pretty decent. I also added
a half frame of 2x2 clear Douglas Fir between the middle thwart and
the aft water tight bulkhead. A similar half frame was added between
the middle thwart and the mast step. I have 3 3/4" x 1 1/2" fir
runners on the bottom as per the plans. I also changed the trailer
bunks to run perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of the boat, this
seems to support the bottom more evenly.

All this work added about 20 pounds to the boat but I didn't actually
weigh it. I can still horse the boat around without too much trouble.
I didn't add limber holes to the half frames which was a mistake. The
bottom is very stiff now and hopefully I'll have no more problems.

-Mike

--- In bolger@y..., "alaskamaz" <mzeiger@h...> wrote:
<snip>
> I'm really interested in keeping this boat light, so I'm thinking of
> building it as originally designed. Have any of you who didn't put
the
> shoe on run into problems with the bottom being too thin? I saw
> references to the shoe improving performance on rocky beaches, and
> since that accounts for 99% of our beaches, I may have to go for the
> extra weight to have a boat that lasts longer.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Zeiger
> Juneau, Alaska
>
>I'm really interested in keeping this boat light, so I'm thinking of
>building it as originally designed. Have any of you who didn't put the
>shoe on run into problems with the bottom being too thin? I saw
>references to the shoe improving performance on rocky beaches, and
>since that accounts for 99% of our beaches, I may have to go for the
>extra weight to have a boat that lasts longer.

I pull my Gull onto rocky beaches now and then, but with the oak skeg
taking most of the punishment, the bottom is in surprisingly good
shape. They're cobble beaches, so the skeg slides over them pretty
easily.

I don't have a June Bug, but my teal is a much better tender than my
Gull owing to the Teal's reduced flare. I think you'll be *ver* happy
with the June Bug's plumb sides.

YIBB,

David
--

C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
As soon as my Martha Jane is pulled out of the water for the winter,
we begin work on a June Bug as her new tender. Even my wife is excited
about building this one, so it's time to strike while the iron's hot
as it were.

I searched the list, and saw several posts mentioning modifications to
the plans, including a 1/2" plywood shoe that runs the length of the
bottom. My set of plans is several years old now. Were the
modifications published anywhere, and if so, can someone shoot me a scan?

I'm really interested in keeping this boat light, so I'm thinking of
building it as originally designed. Have any of you who didn't put the
shoe on run into problems with the bottom being too thin? I saw
references to the shoe improving performance on rocky beaches, and
since that accounts for 99% of our beaches, I may have to go for the
extra weight to have a boat that lasts longer.

Thanks,

Mark Zeiger
Juneau, Alaska


"An té a mbíon mbád aige, geibheann sé cóir." (He who has a boat, will
get a breeze.)