Re: Sneakeasy Modification - Why?
Not as fast, but how 'bout an electric one?
http://www.psnw.com/~jmrudholm/etekoutboard4.html
Mark
Lincoln Ross wrote:
http://www.psnw.com/~jmrudholm/etekoutboard4.html
Mark
Lincoln Ross wrote:
> I'll admit that a ride in your Sneakeasy made me think about
> building one, even tho I generally can't stand gas motors except in my
> car.
When I ask Mr. Bolger about putting a keel of sorts on the Wyo versus a CB,
he came back saying that a double layer of 2x4's for most of her length
would work as well except in close in handling.
With the CB, Mr. Bolger states that she could probably turn a 360 in her
length but with the keelsom it would be more like 3 times her length.
Heck, I'd leave it off and see what happens.
Jeff
he came back saying that a double layer of 2x4's for most of her length
would work as well except in close in handling.
With the CB, Mr. Bolger states that she could probably turn a 360 in her
length but with the keelsom it would be more like 3 times her length.
Heck, I'd leave it off and see what happens.
Jeff
You might gain a lot. A board would have a higher aspect ratio, which
would make it respond better to changes in drift angle. Of course it
might just stall easier, too. Another possibility is that when
drifting sideways the chine would create separated flow along the
bottom which would "blanket" most of the keel, but not the board which
sticks out more. Hard to say. I admit I haven't followed most of this
thread. I'll admit that a ride in your Sneakeasy made me think about
building one, even tho I generally can't stand gas motors except in my
car.
would make it respond better to changes in drift angle. Of course it
might just stall easier, too. Another possibility is that when
drifting sideways the chine would create separated flow along the
bottom which would "blanket" most of the keel, but not the board which
sticks out more. Hard to say. I admit I haven't followed most of this
thread. I'll admit that a ride in your Sneakeasy made me think about
building one, even tho I generally can't stand gas motors except in my
car.
--- In bolger@y..., "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...> wrote:
> I have decided
> not to build a cb box and cb. I was in discussion with Peter
Lenihan
> off line and when calculating the size of my present keel 2" x 8'
> about 1.3 sq ft area I realized that a scaled down Wyoming board
> would be about the same size! What would I gain? snip
Just a comment on Gregg's bimini dodger idea. I made a bimini like
in Bolger's design with open sides and a gap above the windshield but
the spray was still annoying. Even in the summer the water temp here
in Maine is only 60 degrees. Our season is short so I figured an
enclosed hard cabin would be in order. I would like to see your
bimini and dodger setup though Gregg. Are there any pictures?
Steve Bosquette
in Bolger's design with open sides and a gap above the windshield but
the spray was still annoying. Even in the summer the water temp here
in Maine is only 60 degrees. Our season is short so I figured an
enclosed hard cabin would be in order. I would like to see your
bimini and dodger setup though Gregg. Are there any pictures?
Steve Bosquette
Hi Gregg
It's nice to hear from you, hope all is well. Thanks for your kind
words about my cabin idea. Your site was what convinced me to build
Sneakeasy in the first place. After reading all the posts on this
topic, a great worthwhile discussion in my opinion, I have decided
not to build a cb box and cb. I was in discussion with Peter Lenihan
off line and when calculating the size of my present keel 2" x 8'
about 1.3 sq ft area I realized that a scaled down Wyoming board
would be about the same size! What would I gain? I had a temporary
hard cover over the cockpit area a while back and still had ok
control coming into a dock. I did learn that using the wind to push
me to the dock was good technique, when I was on the downwind side of
the dock I was usually pushed away. I think it makes great sense on
Jeff's Wyoming but on a flat bottom Sneakeasy a permanent keel is
sufficient, with careful use of the wind instead of fighting it.
Steve Bosquette
It's nice to hear from you, hope all is well. Thanks for your kind
words about my cabin idea. Your site was what convinced me to build
Sneakeasy in the first place. After reading all the posts on this
topic, a great worthwhile discussion in my opinion, I have decided
not to build a cb box and cb. I was in discussion with Peter Lenihan
off line and when calculating the size of my present keel 2" x 8'
about 1.3 sq ft area I realized that a scaled down Wyoming board
would be about the same size! What would I gain? I had a temporary
hard cover over the cockpit area a while back and still had ok
control coming into a dock. I did learn that using the wind to push
me to the dock was good technique, when I was on the downwind side of
the dock I was usually pushed away. I think it makes great sense on
Jeff's Wyoming but on a flat bottom Sneakeasy a permanent keel is
sufficient, with careful use of the wind instead of fighting it.
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "ghartc" <gcarlson@c...> wrote:
> I don't see Steve's clever cabin affecting the windage on the front
> end of the boat much at all.
> of the side slip. As long as it was 10% ahead of the center of lateralarea
> it would work great and be easy to use.I though I should add that on the Wyo, that is located about 32 feet aft of
>
> If you mounted it to angle forward about 15 degrees it would even have a
> good chance of sliding up should you hit bottom.
the bow. That should make it about 16 feet on the Sneakeasy. Wouldn't it
be handy to have it just outside the window at the helm?
Jeff
Another option might be a removable side board. Slip in place when heading
for the docks or as needed. It would be simple to make the supports, one on
the chine and another just above the water line. You could even mount it
closer to the center since it's use would be usually limited to docking and
close in handling. All you really need then is a pivot point and limiting
of the side slip. As long as it was 10% ahead of the center of lateral area
it would work great and be easy to use.
If you mounted it to angle forward about 15 degrees it would even have a
good chance of sliding up should you hit bottom.
Jeff
for the docks or as needed. It would be simple to make the supports, one on
the chine and another just above the water line. You could even mount it
closer to the center since it's use would be usually limited to docking and
close in handling. All you really need then is a pivot point and limiting
of the side slip. As long as it was 10% ahead of the center of lateral area
it would work great and be easy to use.
If you mounted it to angle forward about 15 degrees it would even have a
good chance of sliding up should you hit bottom.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "ghartc" <gcarlson@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, November 01, 2002 7:04 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification - Why?
> I don't see Steve's clever cabin affecting the windage on the front
> end of the boat much at all. The Sneakeasy being a fast, small,
> planing boat; a centerboard will be irrelevent (and maybe dry) in
> that mode. Were it wet, you'd better plan on sealing about 30 psi
> water in your trunk. If you figured you really, really had to have
> a "forwardboard" to get that 4' wide boat in a 15' slip (drunk? ;-),
> you could mount a permanent one that would still clear the outdive of
> a motor (plus the screw holes would easy to seal on subsequent
> removal). Flat-bottom boats used to handle poor handling by nailing
> a plain ol' ~2"x2" keel down the middle of the bottom.
>
> Steve doesn't have the luxury of the building the box-keel Sneakeasy,
> but that version includes the keel in a stronger bottom that probably
> pounds less. Mine handles like an arrow. I'd posit the hard chines of
> the square version probably provides a similar effect.
>
> The hard cabin's cool, as are the centerboard mechanisms, but I don't
> see the necessity. I put a nice bimimi on my Sneakeasy - Steve, have
> you looked into a soft bimini and dodger?
>
> Gregg Carlson
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...> wrote:
> > Hey Peter
> > I actually understand your excellent "word picture". It would
> > involve a pipe or rod threaded on boths ends with nuts and large
> > washers securing it to the sides of the case with rubber gaskets.
> > The whole thing would pivot? How would I secure the cb to the rod?
> > You would have to take into account the cb needs to be secured to
> the
> > rod while inside the cb trunk! No?
> > As to your computer disability, it may be easier to send me an e-
> > to sbosquette@c... When you compose the message go
> > to "attach file" ,browse to where the drawing is(my documents) or
> > wherever and click on the drawing file name, hit enter to attach
> and
> > hit send!
> > Thanks
> > Steve Bosquette
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> > > So,I'll attempt through text to describe the centerboard case.
> > > Imagine,if you will,your typical centerboard case with the top
> > > opening completely sealed(with a gasket!).Where the centerboard
> pin
> > > normally would exit the case,imagine a rubber gland(perhaps inner
> > > tube material) secured tightly around a lever arm with lots of
> > slack
> > > in the inner tube to allow 90 degree rotation.
> > > This lever arm is secured to the centerboard pin which in turn is
> > > secured to the centerboard itself.
> > > With the arm laying flat against the bottom and toward you the
> > > centerboard is in the down postion.Pushing the lever up and
> forward
> > > to the "straight up"position will raise the centerboard to the
> > fully
> > > raised postion.
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I don't see Steve's clever cabin affecting the windage on the front
end of the boat much at all. The Sneakeasy being a fast, small,
planing boat; a centerboard will be irrelevent (and maybe dry) in
that mode. Were it wet, you'd better plan on sealing about 30 psi
water in your trunk. If you figured you really, really had to have
a "forwardboard" to get that 4' wide boat in a 15' slip (drunk? ;-),
you could mount a permanent one that would still clear the outdive of
a motor (plus the screw holes would easy to seal on subsequent
removal). Flat-bottom boats used to handle poor handling by nailing
a plain ol' ~2"x2" keel down the middle of the bottom.
Steve doesn't have the luxury of the building the box-keel Sneakeasy,
but that version includes the keel in a stronger bottom that probably
pounds less. Mine handles like an arrow. I'd posit the hard chines of
the square version probably provides a similar effect.
The hard cabin's cool, as are the centerboard mechanisms, but I don't
see the necessity. I put a nice bimimi on my Sneakeasy - Steve, have
you looked into a soft bimini and dodger?
Gregg Carlson
end of the boat much at all. The Sneakeasy being a fast, small,
planing boat; a centerboard will be irrelevent (and maybe dry) in
that mode. Were it wet, you'd better plan on sealing about 30 psi
water in your trunk. If you figured you really, really had to have
a "forwardboard" to get that 4' wide boat in a 15' slip (drunk? ;-),
you could mount a permanent one that would still clear the outdive of
a motor (plus the screw holes would easy to seal on subsequent
removal). Flat-bottom boats used to handle poor handling by nailing
a plain ol' ~2"x2" keel down the middle of the bottom.
Steve doesn't have the luxury of the building the box-keel Sneakeasy,
but that version includes the keel in a stronger bottom that probably
pounds less. Mine handles like an arrow. I'd posit the hard chines of
the square version probably provides a similar effect.
The hard cabin's cool, as are the centerboard mechanisms, but I don't
see the necessity. I put a nice bimimi on my Sneakeasy - Steve, have
you looked into a soft bimini and dodger?
Gregg Carlson
--- In bolger@y..., "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...> wrote:
> Hey Peter
> I actually understand your excellent "word picture". It would
> involve a pipe or rod threaded on boths ends with nuts and large
> washers securing it to the sides of the case with rubber gaskets.
> The whole thing would pivot? How would I secure the cb to the rod?
> You would have to take into account the cb needs to be secured to
the
> rod while inside the cb trunk! No?
> As to your computer disability, it may be easier to send me an e-
> to sbosquette@c... When you compose the message go
> to "attach file" ,browse to where the drawing is(my documents) or
> wherever and click on the drawing file name, hit enter to attach
and
> hit send!
> Thanks
> Steve Bosquette
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> > So,I'll attempt through text to describe the centerboard case.
> > Imagine,if you will,your typical centerboard case with the top
> > opening completely sealed(with a gasket!).Where the centerboard
pin
> > normally would exit the case,imagine a rubber gland(perhaps inner
> > tube material) secured tightly around a lever arm with lots of
> slack
> > in the inner tube to allow 90 degree rotation.
> > This lever arm is secured to the centerboard pin which in turn is
> > secured to the centerboard itself.
> > With the arm laying flat against the bottom and toward you the
> > centerboard is in the down postion.Pushing the lever up and
forward
> > to the "straight up"position will raise the centerboard to the
> fully
> > raised postion.
I'll give all the details, failed or working!
Fortunately I'm not going to have to go the surgery route, hooray! Looks
like a case of severe arthritis with lot's of bad joint inflammation. I'm
home for the week undergoing a nasty dose of anti-inflammatory treatment.
It's got it's up and downs including euphoria, headaches, etc. so I'm busy
researching and drawing up my centerboard option. Hopefully when the
swelling on the nerve goes down, I can get back to some building.
It'll be a lifelong battle with Stenosis of the Spine but controllable most
of the time. The boat is still on, the trip is still on, and I'm happy!
To Dave regarding his and his wife's book! It's great, I'm halfway through
and am impressed! Like you said, maybe not for everyone but a good thought
provoking book. Very educational with it's historical content. Well Done!
Jeff
Fortunately I'm not going to have to go the surgery route, hooray! Looks
like a case of severe arthritis with lot's of bad joint inflammation. I'm
home for the week undergoing a nasty dose of anti-inflammatory treatment.
It's got it's up and downs including euphoria, headaches, etc. so I'm busy
researching and drawing up my centerboard option. Hopefully when the
swelling on the nerve goes down, I can get back to some building.
It'll be a lifelong battle with Stenosis of the Spine but controllable most
of the time. The boat is still on, the trip is still on, and I'm happy!
To Dave regarding his and his wife's book! It's great, I'm halfway through
and am impressed! Like you said, maybe not for everyone but a good thought
provoking book. Very educational with it's historical content. Well Done!
Jeff
> Good luck. I think the lever-controlled board is a great idea that workedcracking!!
> very well on the O'Day, as far as my limited experience goes. I think the
> designer who comes up with a workable mechanism suitable for a homebuilder
> would be a worthy recipient of one of those "genius" awards. Get
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
In a message dated 10/30/02 6:26:10 PM Central Standard Time,
boatbuilding@...writes:
One of the virtues of a centerboard is that it generally rides up when it
strikes the bottom with no damage to the boat and little, if any, to the
board. The O'Day rig allowed the board to swing up if it struck an obstacle
as the board's position was held by friction rather than any positive stop.
I'd be cautious about using any scheme that prevented the board from rotating
under impact. Using a bungee cord to hold the board in its down position,
while permitting it to rotate aft in the event of a collision would probably
work.
I've decided that my "stepped pin" idea is a perfectly dopey idea, for
reasons not limited to the difficulty of fabricating such a pin, so I've come
up with another dopey idea:
"The Removable Centerboard Trunk"
In this scheme, the trunk rests on bed logs permanently affixed to the hull,
but the trunk, including the pivot pin, bearing, seals and board, is
mechanically fastened to the bed logs and sealed with appropriate caulking
goop. The side of the case that the pin protrudes from would likewise be
mechanically fastened and gooped.
The pin could be permanently fixed to the board and the hole in the trunk no
larger than required to provide a bearing surface for the pin.
The repair/painting scenario would involve separating the trunk from the bed
logs and removing the removable side of the trunk. The then disassembled
trunk, the board and the removed side could all then toted ashore to be
scraped clean of zebra mussels or other unneccesary biological excresences,
cleaned, painted, repaired or modified as circumstances require before being
reinstalled.
Of course, if the top of the bed logs is near or below the waterline, this
would require that the boat be pulled out (or some equivalent) to prevent it
from sinking or at least filling with water when the trunk is pulled off. It
might require a pin located higher in the hull than designed, which may pose
some geometric difficulties and require re-design of the board, etc. It would
probably be advisable that the mechanically fastened, caulked surfaces be
rabbeted, tenoned or the equivalent so that the water pressure under way is
inhibited from forcing the goop out. Perhaps a stronger gasket assembly than
"goop" might be required to seal the edges of the removable portions given
the pressures that might be experienced under power. I certainly don't know.
This doesn't address how the pin is to be affixed to the board, how the
handle-side pin bearing is to be sealed, what the geometry would be and
probably a host of other issues that do not immediately occur to me.
The best feature of this scheme, I think, is that if you don't get it right
the first time, you could go back and re-do whatever the failings were of the
first iteration without having do any destructive disassembly.
Good luck. I think the lever-controlled board is a great idea that worked
very well on the O'Day, as far as my limited experience goes. I think the
designer who comes up with a workable mechanism suitable for a homebuilder
would be a worthy recipient of one of those "genius" awards. Get cracking!!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
boatbuilding@...writes:
> Unfortunately it's all in my head right now but will be a project thisI hope you do, and let us know!
> winter so I'll get it figured out hopefully.
>
One of the virtues of a centerboard is that it generally rides up when it
strikes the bottom with no damage to the boat and little, if any, to the
board. The O'Day rig allowed the board to swing up if it struck an obstacle
as the board's position was held by friction rather than any positive stop.
I'd be cautious about using any scheme that prevented the board from rotating
under impact. Using a bungee cord to hold the board in its down position,
while permitting it to rotate aft in the event of a collision would probably
work.
I've decided that my "stepped pin" idea is a perfectly dopey idea, for
reasons not limited to the difficulty of fabricating such a pin, so I've come
up with another dopey idea:
"The Removable Centerboard Trunk"
In this scheme, the trunk rests on bed logs permanently affixed to the hull,
but the trunk, including the pivot pin, bearing, seals and board, is
mechanically fastened to the bed logs and sealed with appropriate caulking
goop. The side of the case that the pin protrudes from would likewise be
mechanically fastened and gooped.
The pin could be permanently fixed to the board and the hole in the trunk no
larger than required to provide a bearing surface for the pin.
The repair/painting scenario would involve separating the trunk from the bed
logs and removing the removable side of the trunk. The then disassembled
trunk, the board and the removed side could all then toted ashore to be
scraped clean of zebra mussels or other unneccesary biological excresences,
cleaned, painted, repaired or modified as circumstances require before being
reinstalled.
Of course, if the top of the bed logs is near or below the waterline, this
would require that the boat be pulled out (or some equivalent) to prevent it
from sinking or at least filling with water when the trunk is pulled off. It
might require a pin located higher in the hull than designed, which may pose
some geometric difficulties and require re-design of the board, etc. It would
probably be advisable that the mechanically fastened, caulked surfaces be
rabbeted, tenoned or the equivalent so that the water pressure under way is
inhibited from forcing the goop out. Perhaps a stronger gasket assembly than
"goop" might be required to seal the edges of the removable portions given
the pressures that might be experienced under power. I certainly don't know.
This doesn't address how the pin is to be affixed to the board, how the
handle-side pin bearing is to be sealed, what the geometry would be and
probably a host of other issues that do not immediately occur to me.
The best feature of this scheme, I think, is that if you don't get it right
the first time, you could go back and re-do whatever the failings were of the
first iteration without having do any destructive disassembly.
Good luck. I think the lever-controlled board is a great idea that worked
very well on the O'Day, as far as my limited experience goes. I think the
designer who comes up with a workable mechanism suitable for a homebuilder
would be a worthy recipient of one of those "genius" awards. Get cracking!!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
No, it was thinking out loud by several members. John was talking about a rotory engine, and I am designing a mod with a motor well. But the Sneak is not designed for the HP, speed or weight of a large motor.
CCG
Norm Blitch <normblitch@...> wrote:Speaking of Sneakeasy mods, I seem to recall occasional mentions of
inboard-powered Sneaks...is/are there any cartoons / sketches available for
this alternative power mod?
Norm
CCG
Norm Blitch <normblitch@...> wrote:Speaking of Sneakeasy mods, I seem to recall occasional mentions of
inboard-powered Sneaks...is/are there any cartoons / sketches available for
this alternative power mod?
Norm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 3:45 PM
Subject: [bolger] Sneakeasy Modification
> Hi Group
> I have decided to make a hardtop sedan for my Sneakeasy to deflect
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> > Make the top of the CBto
> > removable but will bedded to prevent leaks. This would allow
> > the CB to be removed from the top for repairs and such.
> >
>
> It seems to me that the pin would have to be removable to permit the board
> be inserted or removed from the case. Am I missing something obvious?hexagonal
>
> I'm thinking that pin would have to be "stepped" - i.e. a square or
> or whatever section to engage the handle, a "large" round section toprovide
> the bearing and sealing surface on the open end, a smaller o.d. square orthe
> hexagonal or whatever section to engage a corresponding polygonal hole in
> board, followed by a smaller o.d. round section to fit the bearing surfaceon
> the other side of the case.Yes to most of the above. The axle is a 1" round stock with a 3/8" flat
ground down if full length for set screws, collars, etc to be firmly
attached. Using set screws only, it would be a simple matter to loose the
appropriate screws and pull the shaft. The CB would simply mount on a
floating collar kept centered by the flax packing or such.
The CB trunk is designed to be fairly tight fitting on the Wyo so I'm
thinking of a padded "pinch bolt" mounted towards the top that could be
turned in to lock it all into place to stop rattling in place, maybe two,
one for the down position too as I understand the CB has advantages in
reducing the swing at anchor.
Unfortunately it's all in my head right now but will be a project this
winter so I'll get it figured out hopefully.
Jeff
In a message dated 10/30/02 10:35:28 AM Central Standard Time,
boatbuilding@...writes:
be inserted or removed from the case. Am I missing something obvious?
I'm thinking that pin would have to be "stepped" - i.e. a square or hexagonal
or whatever section to engage the handle, a "large" round section to provide
the bearing and sealing surface on the open end, a smaller o.d. square or
hexagonal or whatever section to engage a corresponding polygonal hole in the
board, followed by a smaller o.d. round section to fit the bearing surface on
the other side of the case.
I definitely think access through the top of the case makes good sense. The
O'Day case had no such access. I suppose one of those could be heeled over if
the board ever had to come out for painting or repair, but this would seem
pretty impreactical for most boats.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
boatbuilding@...writes:
> Make the top of the CBIt seems to me that the pin would have to be removable to permit the board to
> removable but will bedded to prevent leaks. This would allow
> the CB to be removed from the top for repairs and such.
>
be inserted or removed from the case. Am I missing something obvious?
I'm thinking that pin would have to be "stepped" - i.e. a square or hexagonal
or whatever section to engage the handle, a "large" round section to provide
the bearing and sealing surface on the open end, a smaller o.d. square or
hexagonal or whatever section to engage a corresponding polygonal hole in the
board, followed by a smaller o.d. round section to fit the bearing surface on
the other side of the case.
I definitely think access through the top of the case makes good sense. The
O'Day case had no such access. I suppose one of those could be heeled over if
the board ever had to come out for painting or repair, but this would seem
pretty impreactical for most boats.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 10/30/02 7:01:36 AM Central Standard Time,
ellengaest@...writes:
slack innertube however. There was a controlled amount of friction in the
system so that the board didn't move once positioned. I really don't recall
anything about the mechanism or how the seal was made between the pin and the
trunk, but I'm sure a look at one would be instructive.
I was very impressed with the one I used. I'm sort of surprised that it
hasn't caught on more generally. A glance at the lever tells you how far up
or down the board is and adjustment up and down is quicker and more positive
than the typical pennant arrangement. I seem to recall that it was possible
to re-position the board, at least in light air, without luffing, something
that generally couldn't be done on most of the conventionally set up boards
I've used.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
ellengaest@...writes:
> Where the centerboard pinIf memory serves, O'Day Daysailors use this system, or a variant. There is no
> normally would exit the case,imagine a rubber gland(perhaps inner
> tube material) secured tightly around a lever arm with lots of slack
> in the inner tube to allow 90 degree rotation.
>
slack innertube however. There was a controlled amount of friction in the
system so that the board didn't move once positioned. I really don't recall
anything about the mechanism or how the seal was made between the pin and the
trunk, but I'm sure a look at one would be instructive.
I was very impressed with the one I used. I'm sort of surprised that it
hasn't caught on more generally. A glance at the lever tells you how far up
or down the board is and adjustment up and down is quicker and more positive
than the typical pennant arrangement. I seem to recall that it was possible
to re-position the board, at least in light air, without luffing, something
that generally couldn't be done on most of the conventionally set up boards
I've used.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Awww Peter,
Don't get me wrong. My boat (and floating domicile/asylum) is just
chock-a-block with ingenious gizmos and workarounds that The Admiral
holds me responsible for... Just turning on the damn TV involves FIVE
separate electronic thingumajigs (I am NOT making this up). Don't get
her started on the heating/cooling systems.... A centerboard seemed to
be a good place to start trying to redeem myself toward L. Francis
Herreshoff's mystic ideal of simplicity as embodied in a cedar
bucket.... (do you think he had indoor plumbing at the Castle?)
David Romasco
Starting to turn on the elctric blanket (single control) on the Isle of
Kent in Chesapeake Bay
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 1:40 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
Shucks David,just when things were getting nice an' juicy you have ta
come around an' calm us all down :-)
Of course we could all go back to a felled tree floating in a swamp
to keep things really simple but what kinda use would this list be
other then to go "grunt-grunt,uggg-uggg,nice tree ya got there Org"
and "how ya get those branches to stick out sideways like that?"
But YES,your idea is dirt simple and perhaps best suited for what is
being looked into....
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,perhaps beginning to suffer from ever decreasing
daylight hours here above the 49th,just shy of cabin fever,along the
shores of the St.Lawrence.........
Don't get me wrong. My boat (and floating domicile/asylum) is just
chock-a-block with ingenious gizmos and workarounds that The Admiral
holds me responsible for... Just turning on the damn TV involves FIVE
separate electronic thingumajigs (I am NOT making this up). Don't get
her started on the heating/cooling systems.... A centerboard seemed to
be a good place to start trying to redeem myself toward L. Francis
Herreshoff's mystic ideal of simplicity as embodied in a cedar
bucket.... (do you think he had indoor plumbing at the Castle?)
David Romasco
Starting to turn on the elctric blanket (single control) on the Isle of
Kent in Chesapeake Bay
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 1:40 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
Shucks David,just when things were getting nice an' juicy you have ta
come around an' calm us all down :-)
Of course we could all go back to a felled tree floating in a swamp
to keep things really simple but what kinda use would this list be
other then to go "grunt-grunt,uggg-uggg,nice tree ya got there Org"
and "how ya get those branches to stick out sideways like that?"
But YES,your idea is dirt simple and perhaps best suited for what is
being looked into....
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,perhaps beginning to suffer from ever decreasing
daylight hours here above the 49th,just shy of cabin fever,along the
shores of the St.Lawrence.........
--- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> I am feeling humble in the presence of so much applied rocket
science,
> but wouldn't it be simpler to have an elongated ear on the CB
sticking
> up out of a slot on top of the trunk, with a direct connection to a
> pushrod attached to a lever? Using a 3/16" aluminium plate CB and a
> simple slit rubber gasket at the top of the trunk should eliminate
much
> linkage and sealing liabilities, it seems to me... many older sail
> designs had strangely shaped CBs with curved ears designed to allow
as
> much accommodation space as possible.
>
> Your experience may vary,
>
> David "Simple" Romasco
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01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I like it. Sealing the trunk might be necessary. PCB has a lively
recollection of sea trialing a lobster boat design of his that had a
lovely 1" wide square stem; said surface generated a jet of water that
apparently went straight up and back down in the cockpit, completely
soaking the designer's vanity.....
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Pope [mailto:jpope@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 1:45 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
That does sound simpler. But even simpler, imho, might be to weight the
centerboard, or make it of
metal in the first place. Then lead the pennant up through the sealed
case top into a short length of
pipe if necessary to get the end above the waterline, arrange a sheave
to lead the pennant back to
the steering position and tie it off there. The pivot pin will have to
pass through the case below
the waterline but that can be pretty easily sealed at both ends.
Failure mode: The pennant breaks or wears out. The board simply drops
straight down. Put her on the
beach or trailer, remove the case top and replace the pennant. Done.
Jim
David Romasco wrote:
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
recollection of sea trialing a lobster boat design of his that had a
lovely 1" wide square stem; said surface generated a jet of water that
apparently went straight up and back down in the cockpit, completely
soaking the designer's vanity.....
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Pope [mailto:jpope@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 1:45 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
That does sound simpler. But even simpler, imho, might be to weight the
centerboard, or make it of
metal in the first place. Then lead the pennant up through the sealed
case top into a short length of
pipe if necessary to get the end above the waterline, arrange a sheave
to lead the pennant back to
the steering position and tie it off there. The pivot pin will have to
pass through the case below
the waterline but that can be pretty easily sealed at both ends.
Failure mode: The pennant breaks or wears out. The board simply drops
straight down. Put her on the
beach or trailer, remove the case top and replace the pennant. Done.
Jim
David Romasco wrote:
> I am feeling humble in the presence of so much applied rocket science,much
> but wouldn't it be simpler to have an elongated ear on the CB sticking
> up out of a slot on top of the trunk, with a direct connection to a
> pushrod attached to a lever? Using a 3/16" aluminium plate CB and a
> simple slit rubber gasket at the top of the trunk should eliminate
> linkage and sealing liabilities, it seems to me... many older sail<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egroupweb/S=1705
> designs had strangely shaped CBs with curved ears designed to allow as
> much accommodation space as possible.
>
> Your experience may vary,
>
> David "Simple" Romasco
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 12:17 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
>
> > I'm not certain if this detail cannot be seen in the profile
> > drawing of WINDERMERE over in the files section of Bolger2.
>
> Jeff,
> I just checked Bolger2 to make sure it is there and if you have
> really good eyes or a huge monitor you may be able to make things out
> in the port side elevation showing the inside of the centerboard box
> just bellow the dinette with cleats on the forward face of the
> helmsmans seat.........
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
>
>065791:HM/A=810373/R=0/*http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info?.refer=blrecs
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>
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> ><http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egrou
>
>
> pmail/S=:HM/A=810373/rand=757007904>posts
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,posts
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comhttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
That does sound simpler. But even simpler, imho, might be to weight the centerboard, or make it of
metal in the first place. Then lead the pennant up through the sealed case top into a short length of
pipe if necessary to get the end above the waterline, arrange a sheave to lead the pennant back to
the steering position and tie it off there. The pivot pin will have to pass through the case below
the waterline but that can be pretty easily sealed at both ends.
Failure mode: The pennant breaks or wears out. The board simply drops straight down. Put her on the
beach or trailer, remove the case top and replace the pennant. Done.
Jim
David Romasco wrote:
metal in the first place. Then lead the pennant up through the sealed case top into a short length of
pipe if necessary to get the end above the waterline, arrange a sheave to lead the pennant back to
the steering position and tie it off there. The pivot pin will have to pass through the case below
the waterline but that can be pretty easily sealed at both ends.
Failure mode: The pennant breaks or wears out. The board simply drops straight down. Put her on the
beach or trailer, remove the case top and replace the pennant. Done.
Jim
David Romasco wrote:
> I am feeling humble in the presence of so much applied rocket science,
> but wouldn't it be simpler to have an elongated ear on the CB sticking
> up out of a slot on top of the trunk, with a direct connection to a
> pushrod attached to a lever? Using a 3/16" aluminium plate CB and a
> simple slit rubber gasket at the top of the trunk should eliminate much
> linkage and sealing liabilities, it seems to me... many older sail
> designs had strangely shaped CBs with curved ears designed to allow as
> much accommodation space as possible.
>
> Your experience may vary,
>
> David "Simple" Romasco
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
> Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 12:17 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
>
> > I'm not certain if this detail cannot be seen in the profile
> > drawing of WINDERMERE over in the files section of Bolger2.
>
> Jeff,
> I just checked Bolger2 to make sure it is there and if you have
> really good eyes or a huge monitor you may be able to make things out
> in the port side elevation showing the inside of the centerboard box
> just bellow the dinette with cleats on the forward face of the
> helmsmans seat.........
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> ADVERTISEMENT
>
>
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egroupweb/S=1705
> 065791:HM/A=810373/R=0/*http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info?.refer=blrecs
> >
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egroupweb/S=1705
> 065791:HM/A=810373/R=1/*http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info?.refer=blrecs
> >
>
> <http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egrou
> pmail/S=:HM/A=810373/rand=757007904>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Shucks David,just when things were getting nice an' juicy you have ta
come around an' calm us all down :-)
Of course we could all go back to a felled tree floating in a swamp
to keep things really simple but what kinda use would this list be
other then to go "grunt-grunt,uggg-uggg,nice tree ya got there Org"
and "how ya get those branches to stick out sideways like that?"
But YES,your idea is dirt simple and perhaps best suited for what is
being looked into....
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,perhaps beginning to suffer from ever decreasing
daylight hours here above the 49th,just shy of cabin fever,along the
shores of the St.Lawrence.........
come around an' calm us all down :-)
Of course we could all go back to a felled tree floating in a swamp
to keep things really simple but what kinda use would this list be
other then to go "grunt-grunt,uggg-uggg,nice tree ya got there Org"
and "how ya get those branches to stick out sideways like that?"
But YES,your idea is dirt simple and perhaps best suited for what is
being looked into....
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,perhaps beginning to suffer from ever decreasing
daylight hours here above the 49th,just shy of cabin fever,along the
shores of the St.Lawrence.........
--- In bolger@y..., "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> I am feeling humble in the presence of so much applied rocket
science,
> but wouldn't it be simpler to have an elongated ear on the CB
sticking
> up out of a slot on top of the trunk, with a direct connection to a
> pushrod attached to a lever? Using a 3/16" aluminium plate CB and a
> simple slit rubber gasket at the top of the trunk should eliminate
much
> linkage and sealing liabilities, it seems to me... many older sail
> designs had strangely shaped CBs with curved ears designed to allow
as
> much accommodation space as possible.
>
> Your experience may vary,
>
> David "Simple" Romasco
I am feeling humble in the presence of so much applied rocket science,
but wouldn't it be simpler to have an elongated ear on the CB sticking
up out of a slot on top of the trunk, with a direct connection to a
pushrod attached to a lever? Using a 3/16" aluminium plate CB and a
simple slit rubber gasket at the top of the trunk should eliminate much
linkage and sealing liabilities, it seems to me... many older sail
designs had strangely shaped CBs with curved ears designed to allow as
much accommodation space as possible.
Your experience may vary,
David "Simple" Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 12:17 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
I just checked Bolger2 to make sure it is there and if you have
really good eyes or a huge monitor you may be able to make things out
in the port side elevation showing the inside of the centerboard box
just bellow the dinette with cleats on the forward face of the
helmsmans seat.........
Peter Lenihan
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=810373/R=0/*http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info?.refer=blrecs
065791:HM/A=810373/R=1/*http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info?.refer=blrecs
pmail/S=:HM/A=810373/rand=757007904>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
but wouldn't it be simpler to have an elongated ear on the CB sticking
up out of a slot on top of the trunk, with a direct connection to a
pushrod attached to a lever? Using a 3/16" aluminium plate CB and a
simple slit rubber gasket at the top of the trunk should eliminate much
linkage and sealing liabilities, it seems to me... many older sail
designs had strangely shaped CBs with curved ears designed to allow as
much accommodation space as possible.
Your experience may vary,
David "Simple" Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Wednesday, October 30, 2002 12:17 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
> I'm not certain if this detail cannot be seen in the profileJeff,
> drawing of WINDERMERE over in the files section of Bolger2.
I just checked Bolger2 to make sure it is there and if you have
really good eyes or a huge monitor you may be able to make things out
in the port side elevation showing the inside of the centerboard box
just bellow the dinette with cleats on the forward face of the
helmsmans seat.........
Peter Lenihan
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=810373/R=0/*http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info?.refer=blrecs
><http://rd.yahoo.com/M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=810373/R=1/*http://geocities.yahoo.com/ps/info?.refer=blrecs
><http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=212804.2460941.3878106.2273195/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=810373/rand=757007904>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> I'm not certain if this detail cannot be seen in the profileJeff,
> drawing of WINDERMERE over in the files section of Bolger2.
I just checked Bolger2 to make sure it is there and if you have
really good eyes or a huge monitor you may be able to make things out
in the port side elevation showing the inside of the centerboard box
just bellow the dinette with cleats on the forward face of the
helmsmans seat.........
Peter Lenihan
Jeff,
On WINDERMERE,Bolger shows a really nifty method of employing a
centerboard without any holes through the centerboard case sides but
two lines to handle the board;that is to say,the board is unballasted
and through the use of two seperate but closely positioned lines,the
helmsman can "dial in" the exact amount of board desired.These two
lines exit the centerboard box through two small hole in the upper
forward face of the box and are also well booted against possible
splashes.
I'm not certain if this detail cannot be seen in the profile
drawing of WINDERMERE over in the files section of Bolger2.
Wedges cut to fit perfectly the cut out slots in the centerboard box
are used to hold the board snuggly within its pivot point and the cap
is gasketed to keep the water out yet the wedges in.In the area of
these cut outs,a sort of backing plate is secured on the outside of
the centerboard case to maintain overall integrity of the cb case/box.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
On WINDERMERE,Bolger shows a really nifty method of employing a
centerboard without any holes through the centerboard case sides but
two lines to handle the board;that is to say,the board is unballasted
and through the use of two seperate but closely positioned lines,the
helmsman can "dial in" the exact amount of board desired.These two
lines exit the centerboard box through two small hole in the upper
forward face of the box and are also well booted against possible
splashes.
I'm not certain if this detail cannot be seen in the profile
drawing of WINDERMERE over in the files section of Bolger2.
Wedges cut to fit perfectly the cut out slots in the centerboard box
are used to hold the board snuggly within its pivot point and the cap
is gasketed to keep the water out yet the wedges in.In the area of
these cut outs,a sort of backing plate is secured on the outside of
the centerboard case to maintain overall integrity of the cb case/box.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> I have been thinking of just this thing for the Wyo. The pivot
> pin could could protrude through the case on both sides. You
> could use a washer on the inside and make the hole big enough
> for a good packing material like flax, a washer and clamped
> collar on the outside. Handles could be attached by through
> bolting on both sides. With an unweighted centerboad a hold
> down of some sort could be adapted using strong bungee on the
> inside handle so it's hidden from view while the outside could
> be made up fancy with an adjustable lock for holding it up to
> the desired depth.
>
> There are sources for these axles in go cart catalogs that have
> flats ground on to it's full length. (Jack shafts) Custom
> clamping collars and all. Not SS but with a good rust proof
> paint, maybe even epoxy, it would last many many years and the
> replacement cost would be minimal. With the flax packing,
> removing for inspection would be easy. Make the top of the CB
> removable but will bedded to prevent leaks. This would allow
> the CB to be removed from the top for repairs and such.
>
> Seems to be a better solution than the complicated block and
> tackle setup Bolger shows for the Wyo.
> The pin which goes through the centerboard is what isI have been thinking of just this thing for the Wyo. The pivot
> secured/fastened permanently to the centerboard.
> The end of the pin opposite the lever resides in a slot
> within the inside wall of the centerboard case....no hole
> through the case!
> The other side of the pin does indeed have to penetrate the
> centerboard case wall.This is where a nice big washer on the
> inside can be used with the gland or boot on the outside
> secured to both the case and lower lever arm.
pin could could protrude through the case on both sides. You
could use a washer on the inside and make the hole big enough
for a good packing material like flax, a washer and clamped
collar on the outside. Handles could be attached by through
bolting on both sides. With an unweighted centerboad a hold
down of some sort could be adapted using strong bungee on the
inside handle so it's hidden from view while the outside could
be made up fancy with an adjustable lock for holding it up to
the desired depth.
There are sources for these axles in go cart catalogs that have
flats ground on to it's full length. (Jack shafts) Custom
clamping collars and all. Not SS but with a good rust proof
paint, maybe even epoxy, it would last many many years and the
replacement cost would be minimal. With the flax packing,
removing for inspection would be easy. Make the top of the CB
removable but will bedded to prevent leaks. This would allow
the CB to be removed from the top for repairs and such.
Seems to be a better solution than the complicated block and
tackle setup Bolger shows for the Wyo.
Steve,
I'll give your computer tip a go when I get home...provided my
Pesky Crew doesn't need it!
In the mean time,comsider the following;
The pin which goes through the centerboard is what is
secured/fastened permanently to the centerboard.
The end of the pin opposite the lever resides in a slot within the
inside wall of the centerboard case....no hole through the case!
The other side of the pin does indeed have to penetrate the
centerboard case wall.This is where a nice big washer on the inside
can be used with the gland or boot on the outside secured to both the
case and lower lever arm.
So only one end of the pipe or rod needs to be"machined" in a fashion
as to permit attachment of the lever arm.Threaded pipe would work as
would a keyed rod end.
Both the pin and centerboard must remain"loose" within the
centerboard case.
Pictures at eleven :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
I'll give your computer tip a go when I get home...provided my
Pesky Crew doesn't need it!
In the mean time,comsider the following;
The pin which goes through the centerboard is what is
secured/fastened permanently to the centerboard.
The end of the pin opposite the lever resides in a slot within the
inside wall of the centerboard case....no hole through the case!
The other side of the pin does indeed have to penetrate the
centerboard case wall.This is where a nice big washer on the inside
can be used with the gland or boot on the outside secured to both the
case and lower lever arm.
So only one end of the pipe or rod needs to be"machined" in a fashion
as to permit attachment of the lever arm.Threaded pipe would work as
would a keyed rod end.
Both the pin and centerboard must remain"loose" within the
centerboard case.
Pictures at eleven :-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- In bolger@y..., "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...> wrote:
> Hey Peter
> I actually understand your excellent "word picture". It would
> involve a pipe or rod threaded on boths ends with nuts and large
> washers securing it to the sides of the case with rubber gaskets.
> The whole thing would pivot? How would I secure the cb to the rod?
> You would have to take into account the cb needs to be secured to
the
> rod while inside the cb trunk! No?
> As to your computer disability, it may be easier to send me an e-
> to sbosquette@c... When you compose the message go
> to "attach file" ,browse to where the drawing is(my documents) or
> wherever and click on the drawing file name, hit enter to attach
and
> hit send!
> Thanks
> Steve Bosquette
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> > So,I'll attempt through text to describe the centerboard case.
> > Imagine,if you will,your typical centerboard case with the top
> > opening completely sealed(with a gasket!).Where the centerboard
pin
> > normally would exit the case,imagine a rubber gland(perhaps inner
> > tube material) secured tightly around a lever arm with lots of
> slack
> > in the inner tube to allow 90 degree rotation.
> > This lever arm is secured to the centerboard pin which in turn is
> > secured to the centerboard itself.
> > With the arm laying flat against the bottom and toward you the
> > centerboard is in the down postion.Pushing the lever up and
forward
> > to the "straight up"position will raise the centerboard to the
> fully
> > raised postion.
Hey Peter
I actually understand your excellent "word picture". It would
involve a pipe or rod threaded on boths ends with nuts and large
washers securing it to the sides of the case with rubber gaskets.
The whole thing would pivot? How would I secure the cb to the rod?
You would have to take into account the cb needs to be secured to the
rod while inside the cb trunk! No?
As to your computer disability, it may be easier to send me an e-mail
tosbosquette@.... When you compose the message go
to "attach file" ,browse to where the drawing is(my documents) or
wherever and click on the drawing file name, hit enter to attach and
hit send!
Thanks
Steve Bosquette
I actually understand your excellent "word picture". It would
involve a pipe or rod threaded on boths ends with nuts and large
washers securing it to the sides of the case with rubber gaskets.
The whole thing would pivot? How would I secure the cb to the rod?
You would have to take into account the cb needs to be secured to the
rod while inside the cb trunk! No?
As to your computer disability, it may be easier to send me an e-mail
tosbosquette@.... When you compose the message go
to "attach file" ,browse to where the drawing is(my documents) or
wherever and click on the drawing file name, hit enter to attach and
hit send!
Thanks
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> So,I'll attempt through text to describe the centerboard case.
> Imagine,if you will,your typical centerboard case with the top
> opening completely sealed(with a gasket!).Where the centerboard pin
> normally would exit the case,imagine a rubber gland(perhaps inner
> tube material) secured tightly around a lever arm with lots of
slack
> in the inner tube to allow 90 degree rotation.
> This lever arm is secured to the centerboard pin which in turn is
> secured to the centerboard itself.
> With the arm laying flat against the bottom and toward you the
> centerboard is in the down postion.Pushing the lever up and forward
> to the "straight up"position will raise the centerboard to the
fully
> raised postion.
Steve,
I tried to get a drawing from paintbrush attatched to a private e-
mail to you but for some reason was not successful......actually,I
fear the real reason is my incredible lack of skill with
computers,but that is another story!
So,I'll attempt through text to describe the centerboard case.
Imagine,if you will,your typical centerboard case with the top
opening completely sealed(with a gasket!).Where the centerboard pin
normally would exit the case,imagine a rubber gland(perhaps inner
tube material) secured tightly around a lever arm with lots of slack
in the inner tube to allow 90 degree rotation.
This lever arm is secured to the centerboard pin which in turn is
secured to the centerboard itself.
With the arm laying flat against the bottom and toward you the
centerboard is in the down postion.Pushing the lever up and forward
to the "straight up"position will raise the centerboard to the fully
raised postion.
I don't know if this makes any sense to you Steve or if you can
visualize what I'm getting at but if so,it should work well.If
however,the arm is just too far forward,then a simple system of ropes
and craftly placed blocks(pulleys) should resolve that
problem,especially if the ropes are lead aft to another lever arm
just bellow the throttle controls.:-)
Hope this helps or at least inspires a workable solution for you
Steve.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,wondering just what the hell I was thinking of when I
turned down the chance to take a"free" course in computers,many years
ago.........
I tried to get a drawing from paintbrush attatched to a private e-
mail to you but for some reason was not successful......actually,I
fear the real reason is my incredible lack of skill with
computers,but that is another story!
So,I'll attempt through text to describe the centerboard case.
Imagine,if you will,your typical centerboard case with the top
opening completely sealed(with a gasket!).Where the centerboard pin
normally would exit the case,imagine a rubber gland(perhaps inner
tube material) secured tightly around a lever arm with lots of slack
in the inner tube to allow 90 degree rotation.
This lever arm is secured to the centerboard pin which in turn is
secured to the centerboard itself.
With the arm laying flat against the bottom and toward you the
centerboard is in the down postion.Pushing the lever up and forward
to the "straight up"position will raise the centerboard to the fully
raised postion.
I don't know if this makes any sense to you Steve or if you can
visualize what I'm getting at but if so,it should work well.If
however,the arm is just too far forward,then a simple system of ropes
and craftly placed blocks(pulleys) should resolve that
problem,especially if the ropes are lead aft to another lever arm
just bellow the throttle controls.:-)
Hope this helps or at least inspires a workable solution for you
Steve.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,wondering just what the hell I was thinking of when I
turned down the chance to take a"free" course in computers,many years
ago.........
--- In bolger@y..., "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...> wrote:
> Peter
> Your location of the cb seems to coincide with where I have placed
> the forward hatch. How would I make the box with a lever. I like
> the idea of having a sealed cb box.
Jeff
Thanks for the specs. I'll work it out on my Sneakeasy plans and see
what I get.
Steve Bosquette
Thanks for the specs. I'll work it out on my Sneakeasy plans and see
what I get.
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> I believe the Wyo's CB starts at 16' 8" aft of the bow and is 42
inches
> long. I drops to a depth of 36 inches. It is also mounted 14
inches to the
> side of the centerline. This is to keep it in it undisturbed water.
>
> It's made of 1 inch laminated plwood. Be sure to relieve the
trailing edge
> of the slot to very gradual slope and put a wedge block in front of
the
> leading edge of the slot glued to the bottom panel. This is to
keep the
> water pressure from building up and shooting out the top of the CB
trunk.
> On the Wyo, he shows a wedge about 6" inches long and a max of 1"
tall.
>
> Jeff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 7:25 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
>
>
> > Peter,
> > I don't know what Bolger would think, he hasn't answered my last
> > fax. As to light weight I will be removing the heavy maple
coamings
> > to build the cabin structure of 1/4 luan. I don't think it will
> > weigh any more, or maybe slightly more. As to windage I have had
a
> > temporary luan cabin on for about 2 months and it didn't seem to
be
> > much worse. Once I got used to planning my approach allowing for
> > windage I had no problems. I am contemplating a daggerboard
forward
> > instead of the shallow keel as designed. I will be able to reach
it
> > now with the useable cabin forward. I think it will be more
> > effective than the long narrow keel. I thought I would place it
> > proportional to the one designed into Wyoming, that is, the same
> > distance from the bow, What do you think.
> >
> > Steve Bosquette
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> > > Steve,
> > > Your modification looks really swell and despite looking
> > > somewhat highsided will probably work since it is also narrow
for >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
Peter
Your location of the cb seems to coincide with where I have placed
the forward hatch. How would I make the box with a lever. I like
the idea of having a sealed cb box.
Steve Bosquette
Your location of the cb seems to coincide with where I have placed
the forward hatch. How would I make the box with a lever. I like
the idea of having a sealed cb box.
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> Steve,
> The luan sounds like just about right regarding weight.As to
the
> placement of the cb,I would be inclined to make a paper or
cardboard
Yes there are, go to,
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/Modified%
20Sneakeasy/Modified%20Sneakeasy%20with%20spray%20cockpit.JPG
A lower cabin and modified bow with added lenght. The top can be made
with a foam mould, an extra step but worth the spray shield.
John
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/files/Modified%
20Sneakeasy/Modified%20Sneakeasy%20with%20spray%20cockpit.JPG
A lower cabin and modified bow with added lenght. The top can be made
with a foam mould, an extra step but worth the spray shield.
John
--- In bolger@y..., "Norm Blitch" <normblitch@m...> wrote:
> Speaking of Sneakeasy mods, I seem to recall occasional mentions of
> inboard-powered Sneaks...is/are there any cartoons / sketches
available for
> this alternative power mod?
>
> Norm
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 3:45 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Sneakeasy Modification
>
>
> > Hi Group
> > I have decided to make a hardtop sedan for my Sneakeasy to deflect
I believe the Wyo's CB starts at 16' 8" aft of the bow and is 42 inches
long. I drops to a depth of 36 inches. It is also mounted 14 inches to the
side of the centerline. This is to keep it in it undisturbed water.
It's made of 1 inch laminated plwood. Be sure to relieve the trailing edge
of the slot to very gradual slope and put a wedge block in front of the
leading edge of the slot glued to the bottom panel. This is to keep the
water pressure from building up and shooting out the top of the CB trunk.
On the Wyo, he shows a wedge about 6" inches long and a max of 1" tall.
Jeff
long. I drops to a depth of 36 inches. It is also mounted 14 inches to the
side of the centerline. This is to keep it in it undisturbed water.
It's made of 1 inch laminated plwood. Be sure to relieve the trailing edge
of the slot to very gradual slope and put a wedge block in front of the
leading edge of the slot glued to the bottom panel. This is to keep the
water pressure from building up and shooting out the top of the CB trunk.
On the Wyo, he shows a wedge about 6" inches long and a max of 1" tall.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 29, 2002 7:25 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Sneakeasy Modification
> Peter,
> I don't know what Bolger would think, he hasn't answered my last
> fax. As to light weight I will be removing the heavy maple coamings
> to build the cabin structure of 1/4 luan. I don't think it will
> weigh any more, or maybe slightly more. As to windage I have had a
> temporary luan cabin on for about 2 months and it didn't seem to be
> much worse. Once I got used to planning my approach allowing for
> windage I had no problems. I am contemplating a daggerboard forward
> instead of the shallow keel as designed. I will be able to reach it
> now with the useable cabin forward. I think it will be more
> effective than the long narrow keel. I thought I would place it
> proportional to the one designed into Wyoming, that is, the same
> distance from the bow, What do you think.
>
> Steve Bosquette
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> > Steve,
> > Your modification looks really swell and despite looking
> > somewhat highsided will probably work since it is also narrow for >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Steve,
The luan sounds like just about right regarding weight.As to the
placement of the cb,I would be inclined to make a paper or cardboard
cutout of the entire boat(with modification) then place it on a pin
on its pivot point(like a windvane).Wherever the pivot point is
located,I would then divide the distance between it and the bow.The
forward leading edge of the cb would line up with this halfway point.
Also,I would try and make a water tight box with only a lever of some
type sticking out with which to activate/control the depth of the new
cb.
Just my thoughts so far,but I am looking forward to seeing how
you get it all together.I confident it will be just as sweet as your
past work!
Good luck!
Peter Lenihan
The luan sounds like just about right regarding weight.As to the
placement of the cb,I would be inclined to make a paper or cardboard
cutout of the entire boat(with modification) then place it on a pin
on its pivot point(like a windvane).Wherever the pivot point is
located,I would then divide the distance between it and the bow.The
forward leading edge of the cb would line up with this halfway point.
Also,I would try and make a water tight box with only a lever of some
type sticking out with which to activate/control the depth of the new
cb.
Just my thoughts so far,but I am looking forward to seeing how
you get it all together.I confident it will be just as sweet as your
past work!
Good luck!
Peter Lenihan
--- In bolger@y..., "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...> wrote:
> Peter,
> I don't know what Bolger would think, he hasn't answered my last
> fax. As to light weight I will be removing the heavy maple
coamings
> to build the cabin structure of 1/4 luan. I don't think it will
> weigh any more, or maybe slightly more. As to windage I have had a
> temporary luan cabin on for about 2 months and it didn't seem to be
> much worse. Once I got used to planning my approach allowing for
> windage I had no problems. I am contemplating a daggerboard
forward
> instead of the shallow keel as designed. I will be able to reach
it
> now with the useable cabin forward. I think it will be more
> effective than the long narrow keel. I thought I would place it
> proportional to the one designed into Wyoming, that is, the same
> distance from the bow, What do you think.
>
> Steve Bosquette
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> > Steve,
> > Your modification looks really swell and despite looking
> > somewhat highsided will probably work since it is also narrow for
>
> >
> >
> >
Peter,
I don't know what Bolger would think, he hasn't answered my last
fax. As to light weight I will be removing the heavy maple coamings
to build the cabin structure of 1/4 luan. I don't think it will
weigh any more, or maybe slightly more. As to windage I have had a
temporary luan cabin on for about 2 months and it didn't seem to be
much worse. Once I got used to planning my approach allowing for
windage I had no problems. I am contemplating a daggerboard forward
instead of the shallow keel as designed. I will be able to reach it
now with the useable cabin forward. I think it will be more
effective than the long narrow keel. I thought I would place it
proportional to the one designed into Wyoming, that is, the same
distance from the bow, What do you think.
Steve Bosquette
I don't know what Bolger would think, he hasn't answered my last
fax. As to light weight I will be removing the heavy maple coamings
to build the cabin structure of 1/4 luan. I don't think it will
weigh any more, or maybe slightly more. As to windage I have had a
temporary luan cabin on for about 2 months and it didn't seem to be
much worse. Once I got used to planning my approach allowing for
windage I had no problems. I am contemplating a daggerboard forward
instead of the shallow keel as designed. I will be able to reach it
now with the useable cabin forward. I think it will be more
effective than the long narrow keel. I thought I would place it
proportional to the one designed into Wyoming, that is, the same
distance from the bow, What do you think.
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
> Steve,
> Your modification looks really swell and despite looking
> somewhat highsided will probably work since it is also narrow for >
>
>
>
Speaking of Sneakeasy mods, I seem to recall occasional mentions of
inboard-powered Sneaks...is/are there any cartoons / sketches available for
this alternative power mod?
Norm
inboard-powered Sneaks...is/are there any cartoons / sketches available for
this alternative power mod?
Norm
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 3:45 PM
Subject: [bolger] Sneakeasy Modification
> Hi Group
> I have decided to make a hardtop sedan for my Sneakeasy to deflect
Steve,
Your modification looks really swell and despite looking
somewhat highsided will probably work since it is also narrow for all
of its height.
However,I would certainly be concerned about cross winds blowing
the bow off course at low speeds.Perhaps a small centerboard up
forward?
Also,the structure would indeed have to be light...very
light.Maybe a light fiberglass shell popped off a simple mold and
made to be removable from the hull for later refinement,if needed.
What does Bolger think?
Good Luck!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Your modification looks really swell and despite looking
somewhat highsided will probably work since it is also narrow for all
of its height.
However,I would certainly be concerned about cross winds blowing
the bow off course at low speeds.Perhaps a small centerboard up
forward?
Also,the structure would indeed have to be light...very
light.Maybe a light fiberglass shell popped off a simple mold and
made to be removable from the hull for later refinement,if needed.
What does Bolger think?
Good Luck!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- In bolger@y..., "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...> wrote:
> Hi Group
> I have decided to make a hardtop sedan for my Sneakeasy to deflect
> the spray and make her more useable in bad weather and to extend
the
> season here in Maine on both ends. I have posted a drawing in the
> Sneakeasy file section of Bolger2. I designed it to look like the
> Hinckley
> Picnic Boat in profile. It will be very light with an extended
trunk
> cabin forward which will give more useable space forward.
>
> Steve Bosquette
Hi Jeff
I used Microsoft Paint which is part of Windows 95 & 98. I pulled
the line drawinf off from Payson's site and modified it accordingly.
Its a nice little program which zooms in so I can modify one pixel at
a time if I wanted to. Hope you are feeling better soon!
Steve Bosquette
I used Microsoft Paint which is part of Windows 95 & 98. I pulled
the line drawinf off from Payson's site and modified it accordingly.
Its a nice little program which zooms in so I can modify one pixel at
a time if I wanted to. Hope you are feeling better soon!
Steve Bosquette
--- In bolger@y..., "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
> What did you use to do the drawing?
>
> Jeff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@c...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 1:45 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Sneakeasy Modification
>
>
> > Hi Group
> > I have decided to make a hardtop sedan for my Sneakeasy to deflect
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
What did you use to do the drawing?
Jeff
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Bosquette" <sbosquette@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, October 28, 2002 1:45 PM
Subject: [bolger] Sneakeasy Modification
> Hi Group
> I have decided to make a hardtop sedan for my Sneakeasy to deflect
> the spray and make her more useable in bad weather and to extend the
> season here in Maine on both ends. I have posted a drawing in the
> Sneakeasy file section of Bolger2. I designed it to look like the
> Hinckley
> Picnic Boat in profile. It will be very light with an extended trunk
> cabin forward which will give more useable space forward.
>
> Steve Bosquette
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi Group
I have decided to make a hardtop sedan for my Sneakeasy to deflect
the spray and make her more useable in bad weather and to extend the
season here in Maine on both ends. I have posted a drawing in the
Sneakeasy file section of Bolger2. I designed it to look like the
Hinckley
Picnic Boat in profile. It will be very light with an extended trunk
cabin forward which will give more useable space forward.
Steve Bosquette
I have decided to make a hardtop sedan for my Sneakeasy to deflect
the spray and make her more useable in bad weather and to extend the
season here in Maine on both ends. I have posted a drawing in the
Sneakeasy file section of Bolger2. I designed it to look like the
Hinckley
Picnic Boat in profile. It will be very light with an extended trunk
cabin forward which will give more useable space forward.
Steve Bosquette