Re: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
Sorry for the poor information. The greenhouse was built using
polycarbonate.
James
polycarbonate.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: "soussouchew" <vachew@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 1:47 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
> James,
>
> Which did you use in your greenhouse--acrylic or polycarbonate?
>
> Vince
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "James Fuller" <james@p...> wrote:
> > Richard,
> >
> > I have had a greenhouse in my back yard for six years.
> > This is in New Mexico at 4600' altitude with summer
> > temps that are 90 and up. I can see no yellowing whatever in
> that amount of
> > time. In addition we have had
> > several sever hailstorms in that time with no damage
> whatever.
> >
> > James Fuller
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...>
> > To: <bolger@y...>
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:41 AM
> > Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
> >
> >
> > > I agree. Even buying a special drill bit, I cracked the acrylic
> drilling
> > the
> > > holes to mount it.
> > >
> > > Acrylic MAY be the same ultimate strength, but the ability to
> work
> > > polycarbonate with ordinary woodworking tools without
> having to worry
> > about
> > > cracking it makes up for the extra expense, hands down.
> > >
> > > Besides, don't forget the coolness factor of Lexan!
> > >
> > > As for the yellowing of polycarbonate, we'll just have to see. I
> think the
> > > newer stuff is better, but I try to keep the boat under a cover
> anyway.
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...>
> > > To: <bolger@y...>
> > > Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:22 AM
> > > Subject: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
> > >
> > >
> > > > I'm inclined to believe that info regarding acrylic vs.
> polycarbonate,
> > > > but in order to get the high numbers for the acrylic, you
> probably
> > > > have to be very careful to avoid stress concentrations on
> the acrylic,
> > > > as it will crack instead of failing gracefully the way
> polycarbonate
> > > > does. Kind of like the difference between glass and metal.
> I've cut
> > > > acrylic easily by scoring it and then just snapping it off. This
> > > > raises the required standard of building considerably, I
> should
> > > > think, as well as the standard of making sure deck gear
> doesn't bang
> > > > into the window now and then. When you scratch and bend
> polycarbonate,
> > > > be prepared to bend it a very long way before it fails. I seem
> to
> > > > recall hearing that polycarbonate's properties are better in
> thin
> > > > layers. Wonder if anyone makes laminated version, and if
> so if it's
> > > > really better.
> > > > --- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...>
> wrote:
> > > > > There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago.
> Since I am about
> > > > ready to
> > > > > install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for
> information
> > > > about the
> > > > > relative merits of glazing materials. snip
> > > > (A bunch of info here about relative merits of Acrylic and
> Lexan)
> > > > > Vince Chew
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> > > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
> Fred' posts
> > > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
> <snip> away
> > > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA,
> > > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> > > >
> > > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
> horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
> Fred' posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
> <snip> away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
> Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
James,
Which did you use in your greenhouse--acrylic or polycarbonate?
Vince
Which did you use in your greenhouse--acrylic or polycarbonate?
Vince
--- In bolger@y..., "James Fuller" <james@p...> wrote:
> Richard,
>
> I have had a greenhouse in my back yard for six years.
> This is in New Mexico at 4600' altitude with summer
> temps that are 90 and up. I can see no yellowing whatever in
that amount of
> time. In addition we have had
> several sever hailstorms in that time with no damage
whatever.
>
> James Fuller
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@c...>
> To: <bolger@y...>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
>
>
> > I agree. Even buying a special drill bit, I cracked the acrylic
drilling
> the
> > holes to mount it.
> >
> > Acrylic MAY be the same ultimate strength, but the ability to
work
> > polycarbonate with ordinary woodworking tools without
having to worry
> about
> > cracking it makes up for the extra expense, hands down.
> >
> > Besides, don't forget the coolness factor of Lexan!
> >
> > As for the yellowing of polycarbonate, we'll just have to see. I
think the
> > newer stuff is better, but I try to keep the boat under a cover
anyway.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...>
> > To: <bolger@y...>
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:22 AM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
> >
> >
> > > I'm inclined to believe that info regarding acrylic vs.
polycarbonate,
> > > but in order to get the high numbers for the acrylic, you
probably
> > > have to be very careful to avoid stress concentrations on
the acrylic,
> > > as it will crack instead of failing gracefully the way
polycarbonate
> > > does. Kind of like the difference between glass and metal.
I've cut
> > > acrylic easily by scoring it and then just snapping it off. This
> > > raises the required standard of building considerably, I
should
> > > think, as well as the standard of making sure deck gear
doesn't bang
> > > into the window now and then. When you scratch and bend
polycarbonate,
> > > be prepared to bend it a very long way before it fails. I seem
to
> > > recall hearing that polycarbonate's properties are better in
thin
> > > layers. Wonder if anyone makes laminated version, and if
so if it's
> > > really better.
> > > --- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...>
wrote:
> > > > There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago.
Since I am about
> > > ready to
> > > > install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for
information
> > > about the
> > > > relative merits of glazing materials. snip
> > > (A bunch of info here about relative merits of Acrylic and
Lexan)
> > > > Vince Chew
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead
horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks,
Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and
<snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,
Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@y...
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@y...
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
I had pretty much the same experiance.
You have to be careful not to scratch the lexan though, and bug spray or
sunblock will permantly haze. So will Rain-X.
Some people recommend waxing it to protect it, but I haven't tried that yet.
You have to be careful not to scratch the lexan though, and bug spray or
sunblock will permantly haze. So will Rain-X.
Some people recommend waxing it to protect it, but I haven't tried that yet.
----- Original Message -----
From: "struelpeter" <daveb@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 11:15 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
>
> I tried the acrylic first (trying to save a buck)and will never waste
> a dime on that @#$% again it is brittle chips easly and any minor
> imperfection on the cut edge will cause it to crack and break like
> glass if stressed,,and the breaks are sharp, forked out the doe for
> the lexan and it worked great!! you can cut it with your table saw or
> cut curves with a jigsaw no chipping no cracking you can even file on
> it to smooth out,, good stuff!! oh ya this was for a wind shield
>
> David bosworth
>
> --- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> > There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago. Since I am about
> ready to
> > install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information
> about the
> > relative merits of glazing materials. I came across the quote below
> on a
> > site for owners of Hunter Yachts. You may find it interesting:
> >
> > "All hull port lights are 7/16" thick polycarbonate sealed in place
> with Dow
> > Corning 795. Deck hatches and opening ports Lewmar aluminum framed
> ocean
> > series polycarbonate (lexan). Deck port lights are acrylic and also
> sealed
> > into a 4" wide embossed flange set in 1" of DC795. Note: the use of
> acrylic
> > in the larger deck ports is safer than the use of polycarbonate.
> They both
> > are good materials and have similar strengths. The point impact
> strength of
> > Lexan (polycarbonate) is 200 times greater than acrylic. While this
> is good
> > for bullet proofing it does not indicate the best loading
> strengths. The
> > tensile strength of Acrylic is 10,000psi and for Lexan is 9,000psi.
> The
> > tensile modulus for acrylic is 400,000psi and Lexan is 345,000psi.
> Flexural
> > strength of acrylic Vs Lexan is 15,000psi Vs 13,500psi while the
> flexural
> > modulus for acrylic Vs Lexan is 450,000psi Vs 340,000psi. These are
> results
> > from G.E. on 1/4" thick material and using the various cataloged
> test
> > methods. ASTM D-638 and 790. The thermal coefficient of expansion
> for both
> > materials is the same."
> >
> > I have a friend who is an engineer at a nearby company that makes
> street
> > lamps. They use both polycarbonate and acrylic depending on the
> situation.
> > He says that while Lexan is very tough, it will yellow and lose
> clarity over
> > time when exposed to UV. There are coatings to prevent this, but
> they add
> > considerable expense.
> >
> > I would be interested in hearing from group members who have had
> long term
> > experience with either or both.
> >
> > Vince Chew
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I tried the acrylic first (trying to save a buck)and will never waste
a dime on that @#$% again it is brittle chips easly and any minor
imperfection on the cut edge will cause it to crack and break like
glass if stressed,,and the breaks are sharp, forked out the doe for
the lexan and it worked great!! you can cut it with your table saw or
cut curves with a jigsaw no chipping no cracking you can even file on
it to smooth out,, good stuff!! oh ya this was for a wind shield
David bosworth
a dime on that @#$% again it is brittle chips easly and any minor
imperfection on the cut edge will cause it to crack and break like
glass if stressed,,and the breaks are sharp, forked out the doe for
the lexan and it worked great!! you can cut it with your table saw or
cut curves with a jigsaw no chipping no cracking you can even file on
it to smooth out,, good stuff!! oh ya this was for a wind shield
David bosworth
--- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago. Since I am about
ready to
> install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information
about the
> relative merits of glazing materials. I came across the quote below
on a
> site for owners of Hunter Yachts. You may find it interesting:
>
> "All hull port lights are 7/16" thick polycarbonate sealed in place
with Dow
> Corning 795. Deck hatches and opening ports Lewmar aluminum framed
ocean
> series polycarbonate (lexan). Deck port lights are acrylic and also
sealed
> into a 4" wide embossed flange set in 1" of DC795. Note: the use of
acrylic
> in the larger deck ports is safer than the use of polycarbonate.
They both
> are good materials and have similar strengths. The point impact
strength of
> Lexan (polycarbonate) is 200 times greater than acrylic. While this
is good
> for bullet proofing it does not indicate the best loading
strengths. The
> tensile strength of Acrylic is 10,000psi and for Lexan is 9,000psi.
The
> tensile modulus for acrylic is 400,000psi and Lexan is 345,000psi.
Flexural
> strength of acrylic Vs Lexan is 15,000psi Vs 13,500psi while the
flexural
> modulus for acrylic Vs Lexan is 450,000psi Vs 340,000psi. These are
results
> from G.E. on 1/4" thick material and using the various cataloged
test
> methods. ASTM D-638 and 790. The thermal coefficient of expansion
for both
> materials is the same."
>
> I have a friend who is an engineer at a nearby company that makes
street
> lamps. They use both polycarbonate and acrylic depending on the
situation.
> He says that while Lexan is very tough, it will yellow and lose
clarity over
> time when exposed to UV. There are coatings to prevent this, but
they add
> considerable expense.
>
> I would be interested in hearing from group members who have had
long term
> experience with either or both.
>
> Vince Chew
Several years ago when I was seriously thinking of building a BirdWatcher, I
investigate the acrylic vs poly issue with a couple shops. One shop built
bus stop shelters and switched to Polycarbonate because the Acrylic would
warp after a year or two. Not bad enough to distort the shelter but enough
that when the sun hit the panels they looked distorted by reflecting light
strangely.
The flip side was that the Poly did not stand up to people brushing up
against it and required an annual polishing to get the scuff marks off.
There response was to use Poly for any flat panels that are heat directly by
the sun as it will expand and contract linear without undo warping.
Jeff
investigate the acrylic vs poly issue with a couple shops. One shop built
bus stop shelters and switched to Polycarbonate because the Acrylic would
warp after a year or two. Not bad enough to distort the shelter but enough
that when the sun hit the panels they looked distorted by reflecting light
strangely.
The flip side was that the Poly did not stand up to people brushing up
against it and required an annual polishing to get the scuff marks off.
There response was to use Poly for any flat panels that are heat directly by
the sun as it will expand and contract linear without undo warping.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Fuller" <james@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
> Richard,
>
> I have had a greenhouse in my back yard for six years.
> This is in New Mexico at 4600' altitude with summer
> temps that are 90 and up. I can see no yellowing whatever in that amount
of
> time. In addition we have had
> several sever hailstorms in that time with no damage whatever.
>
> James Fuller
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:41 AM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
>
>
> > I agree. Even buying a special drill bit, I cracked the acrylic drilling
> the
> > holes to mount it.
> >
> > Acrylic MAY be the same ultimate strength, but the ability to work
> > polycarbonate with ordinary woodworking tools without having to worry
> about
> > cracking it makes up for the extra expense, hands down.
> >
> > Besides, don't forget the coolness factor of Lexan!
> >
> > As for the yellowing of polycarbonate, we'll just have to see. I think
the
> > newer stuff is better, but I try to keep the boat under a cover anyway.
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:22 AM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
> >
> >
> > > I'm inclined to believe that info regarding acrylic vs. polycarbonate,
> > > but in order to get the high numbers for the acrylic, you probably
> > > have to be very careful to avoid stress concentrations on the acrylic,
> > > as it will crack instead of failing gracefully the way polycarbonate
> > > does. Kind of like the difference between glass and metal. I've cut
> > > acrylic easily by scoring it and then just snapping it off. This
> > > raises the required standard of building considerably, I should
> > > think, as well as the standard of making sure deck gear doesn't bang
> > > into the window now and then. When you scratch and bend polycarbonate,
> > > be prepared to bend it a very long way before it fails. I seem to
> > > recall hearing that polycarbonate's properties are better in thin
> > > layers. Wonder if anyone makes laminated version, and if so if it's
> > > really better.
> > > --- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> > > > There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago. Since I am about
> > > ready to
> > > > install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information
> > > about the
> > > > relative merits of glazing materials. snip
> > > (A bunch of info here about relative merits of Acrylic and Lexan)
> > > > Vince Chew
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Richard,
I have had a greenhouse in my back yard for six years.
This is in New Mexico at 4600' altitude with summer
temps that are 90 and up. I can see no yellowing whatever in that amount of
time. In addition we have had
several sever hailstorms in that time with no damage whatever.
James Fuller
I have had a greenhouse in my back yard for six years.
This is in New Mexico at 4600' altitude with summer
temps that are 90 and up. I can see no yellowing whatever in that amount of
time. In addition we have had
several sever hailstorms in that time with no damage whatever.
James Fuller
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:41 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
> I agree. Even buying a special drill bit, I cracked the acrylic drilling
the
> holes to mount it.
>
> Acrylic MAY be the same ultimate strength, but the ability to work
> polycarbonate with ordinary woodworking tools without having to worry
about
> cracking it makes up for the extra expense, hands down.
>
> Besides, don't forget the coolness factor of Lexan!
>
> As for the yellowing of polycarbonate, we'll just have to see. I think the
> newer stuff is better, but I try to keep the boat under a cover anyway.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:22 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
>
>
> > I'm inclined to believe that info regarding acrylic vs. polycarbonate,
> > but in order to get the high numbers for the acrylic, you probably
> > have to be very careful to avoid stress concentrations on the acrylic,
> > as it will crack instead of failing gracefully the way polycarbonate
> > does. Kind of like the difference between glass and metal. I've cut
> > acrylic easily by scoring it and then just snapping it off. This
> > raises the required standard of building considerably, I should
> > think, as well as the standard of making sure deck gear doesn't bang
> > into the window now and then. When you scratch and bend polycarbonate,
> > be prepared to bend it a very long way before it fails. I seem to
> > recall hearing that polycarbonate's properties are better in thin
> > layers. Wonder if anyone makes laminated version, and if so if it's
> > really better.
> > --- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> > > There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago. Since I am about
> > ready to
> > > install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information
> > about the
> > > relative merits of glazing materials. snip
> > (A bunch of info here about relative merits of Acrylic and Lexan)
> > > Vince Chew
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
I agree. Even buying a special drill bit, I cracked the acrylic drilling the
holes to mount it.
Acrylic MAY be the same ultimate strength, but the ability to work
polycarbonate with ordinary woodworking tools without having to worry about
cracking it makes up for the extra expense, hands down.
Besides, don't forget the coolness factor of Lexan!
As for the yellowing of polycarbonate, we'll just have to see. I think the
newer stuff is better, but I try to keep the boat under a cover anyway.
holes to mount it.
Acrylic MAY be the same ultimate strength, but the ability to work
polycarbonate with ordinary woodworking tools without having to worry about
cracking it makes up for the extra expense, hands down.
Besides, don't forget the coolness factor of Lexan!
As for the yellowing of polycarbonate, we'll just have to see. I think the
newer stuff is better, but I try to keep the boat under a cover anyway.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, November 05, 2002 7:22 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: acrylic vs polycarbonate (Lexan)
> I'm inclined to believe that info regarding acrylic vs. polycarbonate,
> but in order to get the high numbers for the acrylic, you probably
> have to be very careful to avoid stress concentrations on the acrylic,
> as it will crack instead of failing gracefully the way polycarbonate
> does. Kind of like the difference between glass and metal. I've cut
> acrylic easily by scoring it and then just snapping it off. This
> raises the required standard of building considerably, I should
> think, as well as the standard of making sure deck gear doesn't bang
> into the window now and then. When you scratch and bend polycarbonate,
> be prepared to bend it a very long way before it fails. I seem to
> recall hearing that polycarbonate's properties are better in thin
> layers. Wonder if anyone makes laminated version, and if so if it's
> really better.
> --- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> > There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago. Since I am about
> ready to
> > install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information
> about the
> > relative merits of glazing materials. snip
> (A bunch of info here about relative merits of Acrylic and Lexan)
> > Vince Chew
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I'm inclined to believe that info regarding acrylic vs. polycarbonate,
but in order to get the high numbers for the acrylic, you probably
have to be very careful to avoid stress concentrations on the acrylic,
as it will crack instead of failing gracefully the way polycarbonate
does. Kind of like the difference between glass and metal. I've cut
acrylic easily by scoring it and then just snapping it off. This
raises the required standard of building considerably, I should
think, as well as the standard of making sure deck gear doesn't bang
into the window now and then. When you scratch and bend polycarbonate,
be prepared to bend it a very long way before it fails. I seem to
recall hearing that polycarbonate's properties are better in thin
layers. Wonder if anyone makes laminated version, and if so if it's
really better.
but in order to get the high numbers for the acrylic, you probably
have to be very careful to avoid stress concentrations on the acrylic,
as it will crack instead of failing gracefully the way polycarbonate
does. Kind of like the difference between glass and metal. I've cut
acrylic easily by scoring it and then just snapping it off. This
raises the required standard of building considerably, I should
think, as well as the standard of making sure deck gear doesn't bang
into the window now and then. When you scratch and bend polycarbonate,
be prepared to bend it a very long way before it fails. I seem to
recall hearing that polycarbonate's properties are better in thin
layers. Wonder if anyone makes laminated version, and if so if it's
really better.
--- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago. Since I am about
ready to
> install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information
about the
> relative merits of glazing materials. snip
(A bunch of info here about relative merits of Acrylic and Lexan)
> Vince Chew
Those statistics are very interesting Vince, I didn't realise that
acrylic was relatively strong in some respects.
Another point is that Lexan has a softer surface, in spite of it's
strength, and is easily scratched.
My Navigator has acrylic for the curved windows, and 5mm toughened
glass for the front 3 panes which must be regularly cleaned for
visibility.
Bolger says use glass for the angled front and flat front panes. I
wonder if you should look at this, because your design is fully
enclosed?
DonB
acrylic was relatively strong in some respects.
Another point is that Lexan has a softer surface, in spite of it's
strength, and is easily scratched.
My Navigator has acrylic for the curved windows, and 5mm toughened
glass for the front 3 panes which must be regularly cleaned for
visibility.
Bolger says use glass for the angled front and flat front panes. I
wonder if you should look at this, because your design is fully
enclosed?
DonB
--- In bolger@y..., Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...> wrote:
> There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago. Since I am
about ready to
> install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information
about the
> relative merits of glazing materials. I came across the quote
below on a
> site for owners of Hunter Yachts. You may find it interesting:
>
> "All hull port lights are 7/16" thick polycarbonate sealed in
place with Dow
> Corning 795. Deck hatches and opening ports Lewmar aluminum framed
ocean
> series polycarbonate (lexan). Deck port lights are acrylic and
also sealed
> into a 4" wide embossed flange set in 1" of DC795. Note: the use
of acrylic
> in the larger deck ports is safer than the use of polycarbonate.
They both
> are good materials and have similar strengths. The point impact
strength of
> Lexan (polycarbonate) is 200 times greater than acrylic. While
this is good
> for bullet proofing it does not indicate the best loading
strengths. The
> tensile strength of Acrylic is 10,000psi and for Lexan is
9,000psi. The
> tensile modulus for acrylic is 400,000psi and Lexan is 345,000psi.
Flexural
> strength of acrylic Vs Lexan is 15,000psi Vs 13,500psi while the
flexural
> modulus for acrylic Vs Lexan is 450,000psi Vs 340,000psi. These
are results
> from G.E. on 1/4" thick material and using the various cataloged
test
> methods. ASTM D-638 and 790. The thermal coefficient of expansion
for both
> materials is the same."
>
> I have a friend who is an engineer at a nearby company that makes
street
> lamps. They use both polycarbonate and acrylic depending on the
situation.
> He says that while Lexan is very tough, it will yellow and lose
clarity over
> time when exposed to UV. There are coatings to prevent this, but
they add
> considerable expense.
>
> I would be interested in hearing from group members who have had
long term
> experience with either or both.
>
> Vince Chew
There was some discussion of this a few weeks ago. Since I am about ready to
install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information about the
relative merits of glazing materials. I came across the quote below on a
site for owners of Hunter Yachts. You may find it interesting:
"All hull port lights are 7/16" thick polycarbonate sealed in place with Dow
Corning 795. Deck hatches and opening ports Lewmar aluminum framed ocean
series polycarbonate (lexan). Deck port lights are acrylic and also sealed
into a 4" wide embossed flange set in 1" of DC795. Note: the use of acrylic
in the larger deck ports is safer than the use of polycarbonate. They both
are good materials and have similar strengths. The point impact strength of
Lexan (polycarbonate) is 200 times greater than acrylic. While this is good
for bullet proofing it does not indicate the best loading strengths. The
tensile strength of Acrylic is 10,000psi and for Lexan is 9,000psi. The
tensile modulus for acrylic is 400,000psi and Lexan is 345,000psi. Flexural
strength of acrylic Vs Lexan is 15,000psi Vs 13,500psi while the flexural
modulus for acrylic Vs Lexan is 450,000psi Vs 340,000psi. These are results
from G.E. on 1/4" thick material and using the various cataloged test
methods. ASTM D-638 and 790. The thermal coefficient of expansion for both
materials is the same."
I have a friend who is an engineer at a nearby company that makes street
lamps. They use both polycarbonate and acrylic depending on the situation.
He says that while Lexan is very tough, it will yellow and lose clarity over
time when exposed to UV. There are coatings to prevent this, but they add
considerable expense.
I would be interested in hearing from group members who have had long term
experience with either or both.
Vince Chew
install windows in the Dakota, I have been looking for information about the
relative merits of glazing materials. I came across the quote below on a
site for owners of Hunter Yachts. You may find it interesting:
"All hull port lights are 7/16" thick polycarbonate sealed in place with Dow
Corning 795. Deck hatches and opening ports Lewmar aluminum framed ocean
series polycarbonate (lexan). Deck port lights are acrylic and also sealed
into a 4" wide embossed flange set in 1" of DC795. Note: the use of acrylic
in the larger deck ports is safer than the use of polycarbonate. They both
are good materials and have similar strengths. The point impact strength of
Lexan (polycarbonate) is 200 times greater than acrylic. While this is good
for bullet proofing it does not indicate the best loading strengths. The
tensile strength of Acrylic is 10,000psi and for Lexan is 9,000psi. The
tensile modulus for acrylic is 400,000psi and Lexan is 345,000psi. Flexural
strength of acrylic Vs Lexan is 15,000psi Vs 13,500psi while the flexural
modulus for acrylic Vs Lexan is 450,000psi Vs 340,000psi. These are results
from G.E. on 1/4" thick material and using the various cataloged test
methods. ASTM D-638 and 790. The thermal coefficient of expansion for both
materials is the same."
I have a friend who is an engineer at a nearby company that makes street
lamps. They use both polycarbonate and acrylic depending on the situation.
He says that while Lexan is very tough, it will yellow and lose clarity over
time when exposed to UV. There are coatings to prevent this, but they add
considerable expense.
I would be interested in hearing from group members who have had long term
experience with either or both.
Vince Chew