Re: Epoxy Additive Question
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
a fairing compound. Anything can be pressed into use, but that
didn't seem to be the question. I still hold with the drywall
anology, the ultra lite compound is so creamy compare to standard,
and smooths out much more nicely. On the other hand, if we are just
mounding little dribs and drips onto holes, and fairing them with
samdpaper, it may not mater what compound is used, and your suggested
choices would work as well as mine.
> I think there are different sorts of wood flour. I wouldn't expectvery
> problems like this with the wood flour I have.My woodflour feels
> smooth. THe maple wood flour feels REALLY smooth.The stuff I use in System Three, it is very fine, but it still isn't
a fairing compound. Anything can be pressed into use, but that
didn't seem to be the question. I still hold with the drywall
anology, the ultra lite compound is so creamy compare to standard,
and smooths out much more nicely. On the other hand, if we are just
mounding little dribs and drips onto holes, and fairing them with
samdpaper, it may not mater what compound is used, and your suggested
choices would work as well as mine.
> --- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:balloons
> > I don't like wood flour for this, straight microlight, or
> > with silica as you suggest, for me. The flour isn't fine grainedin.
> > enough, and will peel out of some places the ballons would fair
>you
> > This is basicaly drywall work, like filling screw holes, would
> > shake a lot of sawdust into light drywall compound, and expect aa
> > smooth job?
> >
> >
> > --- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> > > If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
> > > combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only
> > > LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
Actualy one of the "bad" things about wood flour is it probably won't
swell up with water: it already swelled up with epoxy, which means
poor yield, poor sanding, and poor granularity for surfacing. For
really small dings, and if the boat won't be permanently in the
water, the west 5 minute is pretty cool.
swell up with water: it already swelled up with epoxy, which means
poor yield, poor sanding, and poor granularity for surfacing. For
really small dings, and if the boat won't be permanently in the
water, the west 5 minute is pretty cool.
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> I don't really like wood flower, especially on the bottom. I would
be
> afraid that if ever this area got exposed to water, the wood fibers
might
> soak up enough water to make the problems worse.
A tester sized microlight would be great
--- In bolger@y..., "Richard Barnes" <oakbowerybarnes@e...> wrote:
that means more small batches, but the refrigerator can help with
that. Also since this isn't structural , you can go to a mix just
short of too stiff to trowel smoothly and it isn't runny anymore.
Well who says it isn't strutural. It isn't the mainstrength
bulkhead, but it is all you got in that spot.
Making hot batches, using a fridge, is this supposed to be an
improvement on using silic?
If it works, do it.
> Am I missing the reason why no one seems to be blending hardenersto get a slightly faster cure for this kind of work? Yes, I know
that means more small batches, but the refrigerator can help with
that. Also since this isn't structural , you can go to a mix just
short of too stiff to trowel smoothly and it isn't runny anymore.
Well who says it isn't strutural. It isn't the mainstrength
bulkhead, but it is all you got in that spot.
Making hot batches, using a fridge, is this supposed to be an
improvement on using silic?
If it works, do it.
I think there are different sorts of wood flour. I wouldn't expect
problems like this with the wood flour I have.My woodflour feels very
smooth. THe maple wood flour feels REALLY smooth.
problems like this with the wood flour I have.My woodflour feels very
smooth. THe maple wood flour feels REALLY smooth.
--- In bolger@y..., "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> I don't like wood flour for this, straight microlight, or balloons
> with silica as you suggest, for me. The flour isn't fine grained
> enough, and will peel out of some places the ballons would fair in.
> This is basicaly drywall work, like filling screw holes, would you
> shake a lot of sawdust into light drywall compound, and expect a
> smooth job?
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> > If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
> > combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
> > LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
O.K. Michial,
Sounds like a big project! If I am thinking of the right
boat,she has a centerboard and a rather flat bottom,yes? This is good
if it allows you to lower the boat enough to work laying on your back
as apposed to standing up and dremmelling(sp) around! Since you have
the epoxy already,I would really only be concerned about ensuring
that the area worked on is very DRY before proceeding with the epoxy.
Without actually seeing the size of the area it is hard to toss up a
tip but you may wish to use a thickened epoxy held in place(in part)
by using a large enough piece of cardboard(the thick stuff like they
use in shipping appliances) with a layer of waxpaper on the side to
be applied to the hull.Duct tape this cardboard over the epoxy and
run several lines around the hull in that area to give the cardboard
a firm,even pressure over the area being"patched".
Sorry about the soreness.:-( ,hope things work out to your
satisfaction.You may even want to post a picture for us to see
whatsup!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Sounds like a big project! If I am thinking of the right
boat,she has a centerboard and a rather flat bottom,yes? This is good
if it allows you to lower the boat enough to work laying on your back
as apposed to standing up and dremmelling(sp) around! Since you have
the epoxy already,I would really only be concerned about ensuring
that the area worked on is very DRY before proceeding with the epoxy.
Without actually seeing the size of the area it is hard to toss up a
tip but you may wish to use a thickened epoxy held in place(in part)
by using a large enough piece of cardboard(the thick stuff like they
use in shipping appliances) with a layer of waxpaper on the side to
be applied to the hull.Duct tape this cardboard over the epoxy and
run several lines around the hull in that area to give the cardboard
a firm,even pressure over the area being"patched".
Sorry about the soreness.:-( ,hope things work out to your
satisfaction.You may even want to post a picture for us to see
whatsup!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> This project is a 25' Macgreger that has been sunken. The only
area where
> there is moisture inside the glass is around the damage that caused
it to
> sink, and I dremmeled it away until I was into solid dry glass.
>
> There are several layers of "stuff" on the bottom of this boat, gel-
coat,
> then what looks like a Epoxy/AL mixture for barrier coat, then on
top of
> this is what looks like some kind of ant-fouling paint, and last
but not
> least the ever loving "latex try to make it look good cheap house
paint"
>
>
>
This project is a 25' Macgreger that has been sunken. The only area where
there is moisture inside the glass is around the damage that caused it to
sink, and I dremmeled it away until I was into solid dry glass.
There are several layers of "stuff" on the bottom of this boat, gel-coat,
then what looks like a Epoxy/AL mixture for barrier coat, then on top of
this is what looks like some kind of ant-fouling paint, and last but not
least the ever loving "latex try to make it look good cheap house paint"
At 01:14 PM 11/19/2002 +0000, you wrote:
---
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there is moisture inside the glass is around the damage that caused it to
sink, and I dremmeled it away until I was into solid dry glass.
There are several layers of "stuff" on the bottom of this boat, gel-coat,
then what looks like a Epoxy/AL mixture for barrier coat, then on top of
this is what looks like some kind of ant-fouling paint, and last but not
least the ever loving "latex try to make it look good cheap house paint"
At 01:14 PM 11/19/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Michial,----------
> Just read your post and am curious about chips going "through
>the barrier coating to the gel-coat" Is there indeed ANOTHER layer
>over your gel-coat?
> Also,does your boat suffer from osmosis? If it does,then the
>only real long term solution is to indeed remove all the layers of
>coating right down to the glass,let this dry or use heat lamps to
>accelerate this process then proceed with Interlux Barriercoat.
> I've peeled a hull bottom once with a small modified electric
>plane.Noisy,dusty work and you have to keep an eye on things so that
>you do not take off the underlaying glass.It was,however,quick work
>and allowed for the entire affected hull bottom to rif itself of
>several years worth of entrapped water(this was a case well beyond
>simple moisture,we had water dripping off the hull!).
> Still,this can be a relatively easy job and not too expensive.It
>all depends on what size boat...small=cheap,big=sell some
>stocks.Doing it yourself will save you BIG BUCKS and pretty much
>gobble up all of your Christmas holidays.
> Good Luck!
>Peter Lenihan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> > She is a Glass boat, and the "dings" More like chips are as deep as
>maybe
> > an 8th of an inch, to as shallow as barely being able to feel.
>but near the bow there were several chips through
> > the barrier coating to the gel-coat, and a couple chips through the
>gel to
> > the glass.
> >
>I
> > really want to take the entire bottom coating off, and start over
>so my
> > plan is to fill the blemished, smooth her and then put a good
>bottom coat
> > on perhaps a little thicker than normal.
> >
> > I have a 3 week vacation for Christmas, and I am hoping to have her
>on the
> > water for that vacation
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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>
>
>
>
>
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The sore shoulders and arms are already working on me. The boat is too big
to flip, and has been too neglected to really go with a simple gel coat repair.
At 12:44 PM 11/19/2002 +0000, you wrote:
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to flip, and has been too neglected to really go with a simple gel coat repair.
At 12:44 PM 11/19/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>Hello Michial,----------
> If this is a fiberglass boat,then are your dings only in the
>gelcoat? If this is the case,why not go with a gelcoat repair kit
>sold at most marina hardware stores.This stuff comes in many colours
>and can thus be matched to your own hull colour.
> If the dings are perhaps more serious,that is,exposing big
>chunks of mat,roving or raw fiberglass,then perhaps it would be best
>to first seal these areas with straight epoxy thickened only slightly
>with some silica.Do not worry too much about runs with the epoxy
>since you will then have to do some sanding anyway to prepare the
>surface for a barrier coat like that made by Interlux.I cannot recall
>its exact name but it is a two part product that will effectively
>stop further moisture penetration(no osmosis :-)) and will sand to a
>glass-like finish.
> If the boat in question is small enough to flip over,this will
>greatly ease your efforts otherwise get out some Tiger Balm for the
>sore neck and shoulder muscles sure to follow in the wake of your
>restoration project!
> Sincerely,
>Peter Lenihan,with not too bad memories of doing a similar job many
>years ago,from the banks of the St.Lawrence........
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> > Can someone help me with some suggestions. I am using West Systems
>105
> > Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair this
>project
> > (restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keep
>it in/on
> > the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?
> >
> > The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull,
>and are
> > mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be painting
>with an
> > Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).
> >
> > ----------
> >
> >
> > ---
> > Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
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> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
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Michial,
Just read your post and am curious about chips going "through
the barrier coating to the gel-coat" Is there indeed ANOTHER layer
over your gel-coat?
Also,does your boat suffer from osmosis? If it does,then the
only real long term solution is to indeed remove all the layers of
coating right down to the glass,let this dry or use heat lamps to
accelerate this process then proceed with Interlux Barriercoat.
I've peeled a hull bottom once with a small modified electric
plane.Noisy,dusty work and you have to keep an eye on things so that
you do not take off the underlaying glass.It was,however,quick work
and allowed for the entire affected hull bottom to rif itself of
several years worth of entrapped water(this was a case well beyond
simple moisture,we had water dripping off the hull!).
Still,this can be a relatively easy job and not too expensive.It
all depends on what size boat...small=cheap,big=sell some
stocks.Doing it yourself will save you BIG BUCKS and pretty much
gobble up all of your Christmas holidays.
Good Luck!
Peter Lenihan
Just read your post and am curious about chips going "through
the barrier coating to the gel-coat" Is there indeed ANOTHER layer
over your gel-coat?
Also,does your boat suffer from osmosis? If it does,then the
only real long term solution is to indeed remove all the layers of
coating right down to the glass,let this dry or use heat lamps to
accelerate this process then proceed with Interlux Barriercoat.
I've peeled a hull bottom once with a small modified electric
plane.Noisy,dusty work and you have to keep an eye on things so that
you do not take off the underlaying glass.It was,however,quick work
and allowed for the entire affected hull bottom to rif itself of
several years worth of entrapped water(this was a case well beyond
simple moisture,we had water dripping off the hull!).
Still,this can be a relatively easy job and not too expensive.It
all depends on what size boat...small=cheap,big=sell some
stocks.Doing it yourself will save you BIG BUCKS and pretty much
gobble up all of your Christmas holidays.
Good Luck!
Peter Lenihan
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> She is a Glass boat, and the "dings" More like chips are as deep as
maybe
> an 8th of an inch, to as shallow as barely being able to feel.
but near the bow there were several chips through
> the barrier coating to the gel-coat, and a couple chips through the
gel to
> the glass.
>
I
> really want to take the entire bottom coating off, and start over
so my
> plan is to fill the blemished, smooth her and then put a good
bottom coat
> on perhaps a little thicker than normal.
>
> I have a 3 week vacation for Christmas, and I am hoping to have her
on the
> water for that vacation
Hello Michial,
If this is a fiberglass boat,then are your dings only in the
gelcoat? If this is the case,why not go with a gelcoat repair kit
sold at most marina hardware stores.This stuff comes in many colours
and can thus be matched to your own hull colour.
If the dings are perhaps more serious,that is,exposing big
chunks of mat,roving or raw fiberglass,then perhaps it would be best
to first seal these areas with straight epoxy thickened only slightly
with some silica.Do not worry too much about runs with the epoxy
since you will then have to do some sanding anyway to prepare the
surface for a barrier coat like that made by Interlux.I cannot recall
its exact name but it is a two part product that will effectively
stop further moisture penetration(no osmosis :-)) and will sand to a
glass-like finish.
If the boat in question is small enough to flip over,this will
greatly ease your efforts otherwise get out some Tiger Balm for the
sore neck and shoulder muscles sure to follow in the wake of your
restoration project!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,with not too bad memories of doing a similar job many
years ago,from the banks of the St.Lawrence........
If this is a fiberglass boat,then are your dings only in the
gelcoat? If this is the case,why not go with a gelcoat repair kit
sold at most marina hardware stores.This stuff comes in many colours
and can thus be matched to your own hull colour.
If the dings are perhaps more serious,that is,exposing big
chunks of mat,roving or raw fiberglass,then perhaps it would be best
to first seal these areas with straight epoxy thickened only slightly
with some silica.Do not worry too much about runs with the epoxy
since you will then have to do some sanding anyway to prepare the
surface for a barrier coat like that made by Interlux.I cannot recall
its exact name but it is a two part product that will effectively
stop further moisture penetration(no osmosis :-)) and will sand to a
glass-like finish.
If the boat in question is small enough to flip over,this will
greatly ease your efforts otherwise get out some Tiger Balm for the
sore neck and shoulder muscles sure to follow in the wake of your
restoration project!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,with not too bad memories of doing a similar job many
years ago,from the banks of the St.Lawrence........
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> Can someone help me with some suggestions. I am using West Systems
105
> Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair this
project
> (restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keep
it in/on
> the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?
>
> The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull,
and are
> mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be painting
with an
> Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).
>
> ----------
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
> Version: 6.0.410 / Virus Database: 231 - Release Date: 10/31/2002
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I personally am not really prepared to deviate much from the directions on
the cans right now. I do not have lots of experience with Epoxy Resins,
and right now I am pressed for time to finish this project in time to get
her on the water, so I would rather NOT have to re-trace steps because I
screwed up.
I will be buying some of the West Fast curing hardener this week for this
project, I'll probably pick up the micro balloons while I am there.
At 08:38 PM 11/17/2002 -0600, you wrote:
---
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the cans right now. I do not have lots of experience with Epoxy Resins,
and right now I am pressed for time to finish this project in time to get
her on the water, so I would rather NOT have to re-trace steps because I
screwed up.
I will be buying some of the West Fast curing hardener this week for this
project, I'll probably pick up the micro balloons while I am there.
At 08:38 PM 11/17/2002 -0600, you wrote:
>Am I missing the reason why no one seems to be blending hardeners to get a----------
>slightly faster cure for this kind of work? Yes, I know that means more
>small batches, but the refrigerator can help with that. Also since this
>isn't structural , you can go to a mix just short of too stiff to trowel
>smoothly and it isn't runny anymore.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: proaconstrictor
> To: bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 8:24 PM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Epoxy Additive Question
>
>
> --- In bolger@y..., "Richard Barnes" <oakbowerybarnes@e...> wrote:
> >
> > If you mix enough microballoons into the epoxy ( make a stiff
> mix) it will hang in place without the silica. Don't overdo it, but
> not runny anymore. Unless the dings are very deep you won't need
> anything but the balloons.
>
> Obviously that works for you, but just as often the epoxy will sag
> out. Sometimes just as the cure fires off. You go for coffee, and
> come back to find junk sagged all over. The silica is unique in its
> ability to hold the runny glue in place, there isn't any downside to
> using it, if you use the right amount.
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
>
>
>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
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I don't really like wood flower, especially on the bottom. I would be
afraid that if ever this area got exposed to water, the wood fibers might
soak up enough water to make the problems worse. I'll look for micro
balloons later this week. I don't need much, most of the work is in the
leading 3 feet of the bow.
At 02:21 AM 11/18/2002 +0000, you wrote:
---
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afraid that if ever this area got exposed to water, the wood fibers might
soak up enough water to make the problems worse. I'll look for micro
balloons later this week. I don't need much, most of the work is in the
leading 3 feet of the bow.
At 02:21 AM 11/18/2002 +0000, you wrote:
>I don't like wood flour for this, straight microlight, or balloons----------
>with silica as you suggest, for me. The flour isn't fine grained
>enough, and will peel out of some places the ballons would fair in.
>This is basicaly drywall work, like filling screw holes, would you
>shake a lot of sawdust into light drywall compound, and expect a
>smooth job?
>
>
>--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> > If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
> > combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
> > LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
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She is a Glass boat, and the "dings" More like chips are as deep as maybe
an 8th of an inch, to as shallow as barely being able to feel. She sat in
salt water, and had more barnicles on her than I have ever seen on a small
boat. I've scrapped her clean, then come along and sanded with 150 grit
sand paper to roughen the bottom paint.
The majority of the bottom coat is still in excellent shape, especially
considering the abuse, but near the bow there were several chips through
the barrier coating to the gel-coat, and a couple chips through the gel to
the glass.
I've opened all the chips through the gel to get the loose pieces free. I
really want to take the entire bottom coating off, and start over so my
plan is to fill the blemished, smooth her and then put a good bottom coat
on perhaps a little thicker than normal.
I have a 3 week vacation for Christmas, and I am hoping to have her on the
water for that vacation
At 08:18 PM 11/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
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an 8th of an inch, to as shallow as barely being able to feel. She sat in
salt water, and had more barnicles on her than I have ever seen on a small
boat. I've scrapped her clean, then come along and sanded with 150 grit
sand paper to roughen the bottom paint.
The majority of the bottom coat is still in excellent shape, especially
considering the abuse, but near the bow there were several chips through
the barrier coating to the gel-coat, and a couple chips through the gel to
the glass.
I've opened all the chips through the gel to get the loose pieces free. I
really want to take the entire bottom coating off, and start over so my
plan is to fill the blemished, smooth her and then put a good bottom coat
on perhaps a little thicker than normal.
I have a 3 week vacation for Christmas, and I am hoping to have her on the
water for that vacation
At 08:18 PM 11/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
>Another question that has to be asked: Is this on a wooden, planked boat,----------
>a plywood boat, or a glass
>one?
>
>If she's plywood or glass then a fairing compound made up with
>microballoons and epoxy spread on the
>hull and then worked smooth with a grinder of some sort would seem to be
>the thing that would work
>well.
>
>If she's a planked boat then allowance has to be made for the movement of
>the planking as well as
>preserving the flexibility of her caulked seams and might lead to
>an approach of spot filling with
>daubs of filled epoxy or the use of old fashioned trowel cement.
>Jim
>
>
>
>Lincoln Ross wrote:
>
> > If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
> > combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
> > LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
> > --- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> > > Can someone help me with some suggestions. I am using West Systems
> > 105
> > > Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair this
> > project
> > > (restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keep
> > it in/on
> > > the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?
> > >
> > > The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull,
> > and are
> > > mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be painting
> > with an
> > > Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).
> > >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
>01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe: bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion: bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
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Am I missing the reason why no one seems to be blending hardeners to get a slightly faster cure for this kind of work? Yes, I know that means more small batches, but the refrigerator can help with that. Also since this isn't structural , you can go to a mix just short of too stiff to trowel smoothly and it isn't runny anymore.
----- Original Message -----
From: proaconstrictor
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, November 17, 2002 8:24 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Epoxy Additive Question
--- In bolger@y..., "Richard Barnes" <oakbowerybarnes@e...> wrote:
>
> If you mix enough microballoons into the epoxy ( make a stiff
mix) it will hang in place without the silica. Don't overdo it, but
not runny anymore. Unless the dings are very deep you won't need
anything but the balloons.
Obviously that works for you, but just as often the epoxy will sag
out. Sometimes just as the cure fires off. You go for coffee, and
come back to find junk sagged all over. The silica is unique in its
ability to hold the runny glue in place, there isn't any downside to
using it, if you use the right amount.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
If you mix enough microballoons into the epoxy ( make a stiff mix) it will hang in place without the silica. Don't overdo it, but not runny anymore. Unless the dings are very deep you won't need anything but the balloons.
If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> Can someone help me with some suggestions. I am using West Systems
105
> Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair this
project
> (restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keep
it in/on
> the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?
>
> The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull,
and are
> mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be painting
with an
> Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).
>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
of their 410 additive, and some silica.
> Can someone help me with some suggestions. I am using West Systems105
> Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair thisproject
> (restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keepit in/on
> the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?and are
>
> The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull,
> mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be paintingwith an
> Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).Since you have already paid the big bucks for WEST, why not get some
of their 410 additive, and some silica.
>
> ----------
>
>
> ---
> Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free.
> Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com).
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>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- In bolger@y..., "Richard Barnes" <oakbowerybarnes@e...> wrote:
not runny anymore. Unless the dings are very deep you won't need
anything but the balloons.
Obviously that works for you, but just as often the epoxy will sag
out. Sometimes just as the cure fires off. You go for coffee, and
come back to find junk sagged all over. The silica is unique in its
ability to hold the runny glue in place, there isn't any downside to
using it, if you use the right amount.
>mix) it will hang in place without the silica. Don't overdo it, but
> If you mix enough microballoons into the epoxy ( make a stiff
not runny anymore. Unless the dings are very deep you won't need
anything but the balloons.
Obviously that works for you, but just as often the epoxy will sag
out. Sometimes just as the cure fires off. You go for coffee, and
come back to find junk sagged all over. The silica is unique in its
ability to hold the runny glue in place, there isn't any downside to
using it, if you use the right amount.
I don't like wood flour for this, straight microlight, or balloons
with silica as you suggest, for me. The flour isn't fine grained
enough, and will peel out of some places the ballons would fair in.
This is basicaly drywall work, like filling screw holes, would you
shake a lot of sawdust into light drywall compound, and expect a
smooth job?
with silica as you suggest, for me. The flour isn't fine grained
enough, and will peel out of some places the ballons would fair in.
This is basicaly drywall work, like filling screw holes, would you
shake a lot of sawdust into light drywall compound, and expect a
smooth job?
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
> combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
> LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
Another question that has to be asked: Is this on a wooden, planked boat, a plywood boat, or a glass
one?
If she's plywood or glass then a fairing compound made up with microballoons and epoxy spread on the
hull and then worked smooth with a grinder of some sort would seem to be the thing that would work
well.
If she's a planked boat then allowance has to be made for the movement of the planking as well as
preserving the flexibility of her caulked seams and might lead to an approach of spot filling with
daubs of filled epoxy or the use of old fashioned trowel cement.
Jim
Lincoln Ross wrote:
one?
If she's plywood or glass then a fairing compound made up with microballoons and epoxy spread on the
hull and then worked smooth with a grinder of some sort would seem to be the thing that would work
well.
If she's a planked boat then allowance has to be made for the movement of the planking as well as
preserving the flexibility of her caulked seams and might lead to an approach of spot filling with
daubs of filled epoxy or the use of old fashioned trowel cement.
Jim
Lincoln Ross wrote:
> If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
> combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
> LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
> --- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> > Can someone help me with some suggestions. I am using West Systems
> 105
> > Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair this
> project
> > (restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keep
> it in/on
> > the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?
> >
> > The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull,
> and are
> > mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be painting
> with an
> > Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).
> >
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
If you are just filling dents non-structurally, wouldn't some
combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
combination of microballoons, wood flour, and silica (but only a
LITTLE BIT) be appropriate?
--- In bolger@y..., Michial Thompson <michialt@u...> wrote:
> Can someone help me with some suggestions. I am using West Systems
105
> Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair this
project
> (restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keep
it in/on
> the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?
>
> The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull,
and are
> mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be painting
with an
> Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).
>
Can someone help me with some suggestions. I am using West Systems 105
Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair this project
(restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keep it in/on
the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?
The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull, and are
mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be painting with an
Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).
----------
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Epoxy with 206 Slow Hardener. I am getting ready to fair this project
(restoration), and now need an additive for the epoxy to help keep it in/on
the hull while it cures. Anyone have some suggestions?
The majority of the work I need to do is on the bottom of the hull, and are
mainly chips/dings and repairs. After fairing I will be painting with an
Epoxy bottom paint (probably something from West).
----------
---
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want buy good old boat magazine back issues