Re: [bolger] Re: Nymph Progress
I have found that working the tape with a chip brush will usually take
care of the wrinkles working gently from the center of the tape out.
Cheap source of brushes is;
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4181
or just harborfrieght.com and search for chip brushes
HJ
Steven Lewis wrote:
care of the wrinkles working gently from the center of the tape out.
Cheap source of brushes is;
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=4181
or just harborfrieght.com and search for chip brushes
HJ
Steven Lewis wrote:
>I usually do, but I cut a dart or two along the curves to keep it
>from wrinkling. Cutting a little, narrow triangle out where the
>buckle forms naturally, seems to do the trick.
>
>Steve
>
--- In bolger@y..., "gbb132000" <gbb132000@y...> wrote:
dangerous stuff to enhale or get on your skin. Follow handling
instructions carefully. Especially don't use any solvents to clean it
off your skin. It actually helps the epoxy penetrate easier. It can
create extreme allergic reactions and lead to cancer.
Personally, I really enjoy the smell, so have to keep reminding
myself, whereas polyester really bothers me.
Nels
> Thanks to Paul, David, Derik and Steven for helpful replys. Epoxy,Hi George, Don't let the lack of odor from epoxy fool you. It is very
> by the way, not poly. Hate the price, but like the work time and
> lack of fumes. David's comments about polyester made me feel a bit
> better about the money I spent.
>
dangerous stuff to enhale or get on your skin. Follow handling
instructions carefully. Especially don't use any solvents to clean it
off your skin. It actually helps the epoxy penetrate easier. It can
create extreme allergic reactions and lead to cancer.
Personally, I really enjoy the smell, so have to keep reminding
myself, whereas polyester really bothers me.
Nels
Thanks to Paul, David, Derik and Steven for helpful replys. Epoxy,
by the way, not poly. Hate the price, but like the work time and
lack of fumes. David's comments about polyester made me feel a bit
better about the money I spent.
Familiy in town for the holidays, so there might not be much progress
for a day or two. Looking at last night's work, it is less of a
disaster than I thought. (new day, fresh perspective) I am
reasonably handy, and when my work looks sloppy I tend to freak out a
bit.
Once again, this group is super. Extremely friendly. Happy
holidays, everyone!
George
North Georgia/USA
by the way, not poly. Hate the price, but like the work time and
lack of fumes. David's comments about polyester made me feel a bit
better about the money I spent.
Familiy in town for the holidays, so there might not be much progress
for a day or two. Looking at last night's work, it is less of a
disaster than I thought. (new day, fresh perspective) I am
reasonably handy, and when my work looks sloppy I tend to freak out a
bit.
Once again, this group is super. Extremely friendly. Happy
holidays, everyone!
George
North Georgia/USA
--- In bolger@y..., "Derek Waters" <dgw@d...> wrote:
> >> On the bilge to side seams I'm planning to do 24" sections
maximum,
> overlapping the ends. Figure I can deal with the wrinkles better
that
> way.<<
>
> Don't cut the tape up on those long runs - the resultant ends will
be far
> more bother than the wrinkle potential could ever be. One
wrinklefree method
> goes as follows: Paint unthickened resin onto joint area, as wide
as the
> tape you are using. Putty fillet with thickened resin. Starting at
one end
> of the seam apply the centreline of the tape to the centre of the
fillet.
> Squish it gently into contact using the goop covered brush you used
to paint
> the resin onto the joint area. Ignore the edges of the tape. Work
your way
> along the seam applying the centreline to the, well, to the
centreline,
> still ignoring the edges of the tape. Now take the resin brush and
go to the
> middle of the seam. Gently dab the tape down either side of the
fillet. Work
> your way out from the middle doing the dab down thing every foot or
so, and
> the tape never gathers up enough to wrinkle. Go back and work the
edges down
> between dabs. Takes longer to write than to do, or nearly.
>
> If you do get a wrinkle, don't worry, and don't leave it. You'll be
amazed
> at how huge a mess you can 'float' away by applying more resin and
gently
> brushing the wrinkle out. Sometimes a little gentle pulling on the
offending
> tape end helps.
>
> IMO, taping is like most jobs in that it gets easier the more you
do. (not
> that I'm any expert - maybe 100 yards in total so far :) There are
bits of
> my Nymph that won't bear close scrutiny.
> Perhaps 'fun' is putting it a bit strongly - taped seam
construction is a
> good fit with my carpentry skills.
>
> Cheers
> Derek
Are you using polyester or epoxy? That could change your whole
approach here. The epoxy will give enough time to cut darts and
smooth out nice and even (although it will be a sticky mess); the
polyester will be setting up real fast without enough time to get
fancy, although a piece of sandpaper on a drill will take care of the
lumps quickly. Be sure to wear a proper respirator when working with
this stuff. I developed cancer shortly after building Nymph.
Probably not connected to the chemicals involved in polyester, but I
will always have that thought in my mind.
David Jost
approach here. The epoxy will give enough time to cut darts and
smooth out nice and even (although it will be a sticky mess); the
polyester will be setting up real fast without enough time to get
fancy, although a piece of sandpaper on a drill will take care of the
lumps quickly. Be sure to wear a proper respirator when working with
this stuff. I developed cancer shortly after building Nymph.
Probably not connected to the chemicals involved in polyester, but I
will always have that thought in my mind.
David Jost
I usually do, but I cut a dart or two along the curves to keep it
from wrinkling. Cutting a little, narrow triangle out where the
buckle forms naturally, seems to do the trick.
Steve
from wrinkling. Cutting a little, narrow triangle out where the
buckle forms naturally, seems to do the trick.
Steve
> Question; Do you guys (and gals) try to run the tape full lengthon
> a long curved seam, or do you do it in shorter sections? I had aDOG
> of a time trying to keep wrinkles out of the tape on thelongitudinal
> seams (bottom to bilge). I measured the tape, rolled it up, andthen
> rolled it out onto the seam. On the bilge to side seams I'mplanning
> to do 24" sections maximum, overlapping the ends. Figure I candeal
> with the wrinkles better that way.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> gbb
>> On the bilge to side seams I'm planning to do 24" sections maximum,overlapping the ends. Figure I can deal with the wrinkles better that
way.<<
Don't cut the tape up on those long runs - the resultant ends will be far
more bother than the wrinkle potential could ever be. One wrinklefree method
goes as follows: Paint unthickened resin onto joint area, as wide as the
tape you are using. Putty fillet with thickened resin. Starting at one end
of the seam apply the centreline of the tape to the centre of the fillet.
Squish it gently into contact using the goop covered brush you used to paint
the resin onto the joint area. Ignore the edges of the tape. Work your way
along the seam applying the centreline to the, well, to the centreline,
still ignoring the edges of the tape. Now take the resin brush and go to the
middle of the seam. Gently dab the tape down either side of the fillet. Work
your way out from the middle doing the dab down thing every foot or so, and
the tape never gathers up enough to wrinkle. Go back and work the edges down
between dabs. Takes longer to write than to do, or nearly.
If you do get a wrinkle, don't worry, and don't leave it. You'll be amazed
at how huge a mess you can 'float' away by applying more resin and gently
brushing the wrinkle out. Sometimes a little gentle pulling on the offending
tape end helps.
IMO, taping is like most jobs in that it gets easier the more you do. (not
that I'm any expert - maybe 100 yards in total so far :) There are bits of
my Nymph that won't bear close scrutiny.
Perhaps 'fun' is putting it a bit strongly - taped seam construction is a
good fit with my carpentry skills.
Cheers
Derek
Random observations;
-Anybody who claims epoxy and 'glass is fun ought to be punished
severely.
-I probably shouldn't expect to be good at something I've never tried
before.
-The beer I drank before I tried it might not have been that great an
idea....
But seriously, folks... I just finished filling and taping the chine
seams (between the bottom and bilge panels), and the junctures of
frames to bottom. It looks like the guy who did it was smoking a bit
of dope, if I do say so myself. Whew!!!
Good news is, I was feeling quite a bit more skilfull when I finished
than when I started. I suspect things will go a lot smoother
tomorrow.
Question; Do you guys (and gals) try to run the tape full length on
a long curved seam, or do you do it in shorter sections? I had a DOG
of a time trying to keep wrinkles out of the tape on the longitudinal
seams (bottom to bilge). I measured the tape, rolled it up, and then
rolled it out onto the seam. On the bilge to side seams I'm planning
to do 24" sections maximum, overlapping the ends. Figure I can deal
with the wrinkles better that way.
Thoughts?
gbb
-Anybody who claims epoxy and 'glass is fun ought to be punished
severely.
-I probably shouldn't expect to be good at something I've never tried
before.
-The beer I drank before I tried it might not have been that great an
idea....
But seriously, folks... I just finished filling and taping the chine
seams (between the bottom and bilge panels), and the junctures of
frames to bottom. It looks like the guy who did it was smoking a bit
of dope, if I do say so myself. Whew!!!
Good news is, I was feeling quite a bit more skilfull when I finished
than when I started. I suspect things will go a lot smoother
tomorrow.
Question; Do you guys (and gals) try to run the tape full length on
a long curved seam, or do you do it in shorter sections? I had a DOG
of a time trying to keep wrinkles out of the tape on the longitudinal
seams (bottom to bilge). I measured the tape, rolled it up, and then
rolled it out onto the seam. On the bilge to side seams I'm planning
to do 24" sections maximum, overlapping the ends. Figure I can deal
with the wrinkles better that way.
Thoughts?
gbb