Re: [bolger] Re: oar warp
> You can straighten it, but it won't be permenant. We had a couple ofMabe laminating two or three thin boards together to make oars is an option.
> oars we carved for the Instant Klondike Boat
>
They would be less likely to warp though I've had mast warp some if I tie
them down to tight for long periods but for oars maybe the boards would
counter each other somewhat to keep from warping.
Jeff
You can straighten it, but it won't be permenant. We had a couple of
oars we carved for the Instant Klondike Boat
http://209.193.28.16/Boats/Klondike/Klondike.htm
last summer out of clear but not so stright grain spruce and they bent
good when carved. We hung wieghts and got them to get reasonably
straight but you could tell it wasn't going to last all the way down the
Yukon. We had to go to the stack of the Good Stuff to get usable oars.
When you run a board through a table saw and it just lays there with the
kerf width staying constant the board will probably not bend later. When
one side bends down and the other comes up and heads for the other side
of the shop, then you can count on not being satisfied with the results.
HJ
Steven Lewis wrote:
oars we carved for the Instant Klondike Boat
http://209.193.28.16/Boats/Klondike/Klondike.htm
last summer out of clear but not so stright grain spruce and they bent
good when carved. We hung wieghts and got them to get reasonably
straight but you could tell it wasn't going to last all the way down the
Yukon. We had to go to the stack of the Good Stuff to get usable oars.
When you run a board through a table saw and it just lays there with the
kerf width staying constant the board will probably not bend later. When
one side bends down and the other comes up and heads for the other side
of the shop, then you can count on not being satisfied with the results.
HJ
Steven Lewis wrote:
>Perhaps some moist heat and the judicious application of pressure...
>
>Or you could put it bow up, across something, and hang a cinderblock
>or two from it until it straightens.
>
>--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
>
>>Made an oar, and it was pretty straight when I finished it, but it
>>is now rapidly acquiring a lot of bow. Any suggestions for
>>
>preventing
>
>>this in the future and/or fixing this one? Is it just because I
>>
>used
>
>>a crappy 2X4 for practice purposes? Thanks
>>
Well this goes to show that I should read all my emails first before I
start answering as some other Bolgerado will have already got a reply out.
Derek must be a wise man as he has the same answer as me almost word for
word.
HJ
Derek Waters wrote:
start answering as some other Bolgerado will have already got a reply out.
Derek must be a wise man as he has the same answer as me almost word for
word.
HJ
Derek Waters wrote:
>Hi Lincoln
>
>>>Is it just because I used a crappy 2X4 for practice purposes? <<
>>>
>
>Probably, but that's not to say it wouldn't happen with a much more
>expensive stick. The internal tensions set up when timbers are dried can be
>released once you start cutting away at them.
>
>The 'traditional' method for easing the problem won't help you with this
>oar. Take your 'soon to be next oar' stick and rip it down the middle.
>Bookmatch the grain and glue it back together. That way the stresses in each
>half work against one another, and things have a chance of staying
>straighter.
>
>Cheers
>Derek
>
>
Lincoln Ross wrote:
internal stresses and as you cut away wood it started adjusting.
Use really good straight grain wood or saw the piece in half reverse it
and glue together, usually this will let the stresses even out.
HJ
>Made an oar, and it was pretty straight when I finished it, but itYep , The wood you used was dried in a kiln in a stack. It had a lot of
>is now rapidly acquiring a lot of bow. Any suggestions for preventing
>this in the future and/or fixing this one?
>
internal stresses and as you cut away wood it started adjusting.
Use really good straight grain wood or saw the piece in half reverse it
and glue together, usually this will let the stresses even out.
HJ
>Is it just because I used
>a crappy 2X4 for practice purposes? Thanks
>
I recall Dynamite Payson suggesting a very scientific method for
straightening a bowed board. Leave it out on your lawn in the sun
with the bow upward. The board will soak up moisture from the grass,
while the sun dries the other side.
Course I live in Saskatchewan, where we don't have lawns, so I have
never tried this method. All our lumber is permanently warped but so
are our carpenters:-)
Or it could be trimmed down to make a bent shaft paddle?
Nels
straightening a bowed board. Leave it out on your lawn in the sun
with the bow upward. The board will soak up moisture from the grass,
while the sun dries the other side.
Course I live in Saskatchewan, where we don't have lawns, so I have
never tried this method. All our lumber is permanently warped but so
are our carpenters:-)
Or it could be trimmed down to make a bent shaft paddle?
Nels
--- In bolger@y..., "Steven Lewis" <numbaoneman@b...> wrote:
> Perhaps some moist heat and the judicious application of
pressure...
>
> Or you could put it bow up, across something, and hang a
cinderblock
> or two from it until it straightens.
>
Perhaps some moist heat and the judicious application of pressure...
Or you could put it bow up, across something, and hang a cinderblock
or two from it until it straightens.
Or you could put it bow up, across something, and hang a cinderblock
or two from it until it straightens.
--- In bolger@y..., "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
> Made an oar, and it was pretty straight when I finished it, but it
> is now rapidly acquiring a lot of bow. Any suggestions for
preventing
> this in the future and/or fixing this one? Is it just because I
used
> a crappy 2X4 for practice purposes? Thanks
Hi Lincoln
expensive stick. The internal tensions set up when timbers are dried can be
released once you start cutting away at them.
The 'traditional' method for easing the problem won't help you with this
oar. Take your 'soon to be next oar' stick and rip it down the middle.
Bookmatch the grain and glue it back together. That way the stresses in each
half work against one another, and things have a chance of staying
straighter.
Cheers
Derek
>> Is it just because I used a crappy 2X4 for practice purposes? <<Probably, but that's not to say it wouldn't happen with a much more
expensive stick. The internal tensions set up when timbers are dried can be
released once you start cutting away at them.
The 'traditional' method for easing the problem won't help you with this
oar. Take your 'soon to be next oar' stick and rip it down the middle.
Bookmatch the grain and glue it back together. That way the stresses in each
half work against one another, and things have a chance of staying
straighter.
Cheers
Derek
Made an oar, and it was pretty straight when I finished it, but it
is now rapidly acquiring a lot of bow. Any suggestions for preventing
this in the future and/or fixing this one? Is it just because I used
a crappy 2X4 for practice purposes? Thanks
is now rapidly acquiring a lot of bow. Any suggestions for preventing
this in the future and/or fixing this one? Is it just because I used
a crappy 2X4 for practice purposes? Thanks