Re: [bolger] Re: leeboards
> Bolgeristas,Cool, I would like to see some pictures!
> I have 36' version of the Meadowlark (Called
> "Meadowlark", > Mark Hall
> Stockton
Bolgeristas,
I have 36' version of the Meadowlark (Called
"Meadowlark", my father was not very original in the
naming department.) The leeboards are attached with a
custom made fitting that allows the board to not only
rotate for and aft, but away from the side. So, if
you tack and don't lift the weather board right away,
it floats away from the hull with a "broken wing"
look. This is a different manner of attachment that
Bolger has used on the WBJ schooner which is a hard
attachment wherein you can leave the boards down on
both tacks. There is some merit to his solution, as
in a slop with little wind, we can't leave the boards
down on the Meadowlark as they have a tendency to slam
against the boat. However, on our boat, we have a
Sabb diesel (450 lbs) and an additional 500 lbs of
lead. Basically, she rides several inches lower in
the water than designed, and there is at least an
additional six inches added to keel aft to allow for
the large variable pitch prop. As a result, the boat
does have more bite in the water, and the leeboards
help, but are not essential. Our draft increased from
the designed 18" to about 27". This boat has never
been a great "beater to windward" but she goes like a
bat out of hell off the wind. My most recent mods to
the boat make her a gracious "Delta Queen." Friends
at the marina are threatening me with finding the
correct Humphrey Bogart style hat.
Mark Hall
Stockton
__________________________________
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I have 36' version of the Meadowlark (Called
"Meadowlark", my father was not very original in the
naming department.) The leeboards are attached with a
custom made fitting that allows the board to not only
rotate for and aft, but away from the side. So, if
you tack and don't lift the weather board right away,
it floats away from the hull with a "broken wing"
look. This is a different manner of attachment that
Bolger has used on the WBJ schooner which is a hard
attachment wherein you can leave the boards down on
both tacks. There is some merit to his solution, as
in a slop with little wind, we can't leave the boards
down on the Meadowlark as they have a tendency to slam
against the boat. However, on our boat, we have a
Sabb diesel (450 lbs) and an additional 500 lbs of
lead. Basically, she rides several inches lower in
the water than designed, and there is at least an
additional six inches added to keel aft to allow for
the large variable pitch prop. As a result, the boat
does have more bite in the water, and the leeboards
help, but are not essential. Our draft increased from
the designed 18" to about 27". This boat has never
been a great "beater to windward" but she goes like a
bat out of hell off the wind. My most recent mods to
the boat make her a gracious "Delta Queen." Friends
at the marina are threatening me with finding the
correct Humphrey Bogart style hat.
Mark Hall
Stockton
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today!
http://my.yahoo.com
Grain along the length of the board is good, but if it's in the
middle
of the board it isn't going to do much. You want grain running along
the board near the faces. The material well inside the board is
acting
only as a shear web. This is why they make tubing and I beams: put
the
material where it does the most good. If the thicker part of you ply
is running the right way, you'll still be ok.
I just broke a leeboard today, haven't looked it over. However, there
is no way to build a boat stronger than human stupidity.
middle
of the board it isn't going to do much. You want grain running along
the board near the faces. The material well inside the board is
acting
only as a shear web. This is why they make tubing and I beams: put
the
material where it does the most good. If the thicker part of you ply
is running the right way, you'll still be ok.
I just broke a leeboard today, haven't looked it over. However, there
is no way to build a boat stronger than human stupidity.
--- Inbolger@egroups.com, "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> To the group:
>
> After witnessing first hand Tim Webber's Scram Pram leeboard
failure, and reading on this DG about Phil Lea's similar experience
with his Junebug, It occurred to me that plywood might not be the
best
material to use. The board for the Jim Michalak Caprice that I am
building is 20 inches wide, an inch and a half thick, and over six
feet long. It is designed to be made out of two layers of 3/4" ply.
Since what these boards seem to need most is more grain oriented
along
the length of the board, it occurred to me to use 3/4" lumber in the
center of the board, and 3/8" ply on the faces. snip
To the group:
After witnessing first hand Tim Webber's Scram Pram
leeboard failure, and reading on this DG about Phil Lea's similar experience
with his Junebug, It occurred to me that plywood might not be the best material
to use. The board for the Jim Michalak Caprice that I am building is 20
inches wide, an inch and a half thick, and over six feet long. It is
designed to be made out of two layers of 3/4" ply. Since what these boards
seem to need most is more grain oriented along the length of the board, it
occurred to me to use 3/4" lumber in the center of the board, and 3/8" ply
on the faces. I got some nice Ponderosa Pine 1 X 6's with small
knots, and used Fir MDO for the outsides.
First I predrilled the ply about 3/16" in a pattern
to clamp it to the face of the edge glued 1 X 6's. Then I glued the lumber and
clamped the edges. Next, I screwed them to the first piece of ply.
After that, I laid down the second piece of ply, and screwed that
down.
This system might not work on small leeboards, but
I think you could use 3/4" lumber, and 1/8" ply for a total thickness of
1". For even smaller boards, rip 2X to 1/2" thick strips and, again use
1/8" ply for the face giving 3/4" thickness.
I have posted a couple of snapshots of the process
here:
Chuck Leinweber
>Simon,Stan ,
> Seeing your posting about the Chebacco leeboards prompts me to ask a
>favor. A neighbor of mine had asked if the Micro would work with
>Leeboards and internal ballast, and I am not schooled enough to be able
>to answer. The only thing I have been able to find on the net in this
>subject was on a Long Micro where they did a fine job. But there was a
>reference to a Micro that the fellow wasn't able to make them work.
> I bring this up at this point, not only to answer my neighbor, but
>the information would also be helpful to those on the list looking to
>getting around the infamous "terminal" keel anxiety.
> I'm sure any help you could be would be appreciated by all.
>Thanks, Stan, Snow Goose
>
I cant see any reason why leeboards wouldnt work on Micro or Long
Micro , I havent done any calculations to be able to tell you whether the
sailplan might need to be changed or not .... but there are plenty of M and
LM owners in the group ... maybe they could field the question best ... as
for internal ballast ,I would only consider water as anything else would
severely hamper trailability .... hope this helps some ... if I can help in
any more specific way , dont hesitate to ask .... Cheers Simon.
Jim Michalak has worked out a Micro alternative for the
keel-anxious--gaff cat rig, internal ballast of bolted steel bars, and
his signature single pivoting leeboard. It's in his catalog of
prototypes, and called Musicbox. He intended it to be a variation on
the Micro theme that would be simpler to build, quicker to rig, and
easier to beach.
Matthew "the Brick guy" Long
stan muller <smulle-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2570
keel-anxious--gaff cat rig, internal ballast of bolted steel bars, and
his signature single pivoting leeboard. It's in his catalog of
prototypes, and called Musicbox. He intended it to be a variation on
the Micro theme that would be simpler to build, quicker to rig, and
easier to beach.
Matthew "the Brick guy" Long
stan muller <smulle-@...> wrote:
original article:http://www.egroups.com/group/bolger/?start=2570
> Simon,a
> Seeing your posting about the Chebacco leeboards prompts me to ask
> favor. A neighbor of mine had asked if the Micro would work withable
> Leeboards and internal ballast, and I am not schooled enough to be
> to answer. The only thing I have been able to find on the net in this
> subject was on a Long Micro where they did a fine job. But there was a
> reference to a Micro that the fellow wasn't able to make them work.
> I bring this up at this point, not only to answer my neighbor, but
> the information would also be helpful to those on the list looking to
> getting around the infamous "terminal" keel anxiety.
> I'm sure any help you could be would be appreciated by all.
> Thanks, Stan, Snow Goose
Simon,
Seeing your posting about the Chebacco leeboards prompts me to ask a
favor. A neighbor of mine had asked if the Micro would work with
Leeboards and internal ballast, and I am not schooled enough to be able
to answer. The only thing I have been able to find on the net in this
subject was on a Long Micro where they did a fine job. But there was a
reference to a Micro that the fellow wasn't able to make them work.
I bring this up at this point, not only to answer my neighbor, but
the information would also be helpful to those on the list looking to
getting around the infamous "terminal" keel anxiety.
I'm sure any help you could be would be appreciated by all.
Thanks, Stan, Snow Goose
Seeing your posting about the Chebacco leeboards prompts me to ask a
favor. A neighbor of mine had asked if the Micro would work with
Leeboards and internal ballast, and I am not schooled enough to be able
to answer. The only thing I have been able to find on the net in this
subject was on a Long Micro where they did a fine job. But there was a
reference to a Micro that the fellow wasn't able to make them work.
I bring this up at this point, not only to answer my neighbor, but
the information would also be helpful to those on the list looking to
getting around the infamous "terminal" keel anxiety.
I'm sure any help you could be would be appreciated by all.
Thanks, Stan, Snow Goose
Ed ,
No the Chebacco is not designed for leeboards, however i have done
calculations using L.Francis Herreschoffs work in this area to assure myself
that the design would accept leeboards without any of the problems you
mentioned ... i am intending to use a cross between the Bolger "jochems"
design and a Herreschoff one . I would not be prepared to go with a forward
raking board in order to avoid some of the problems associated with flotsam
and jetsam , however my system will allow a great deal of flexibility so i
will endeavour to give an objective answer to this theory in due course ....
( e.g. after the now belated launching date )
I will also be experimenting with a little " toe in" on the boards to
assess leeway angles .... Simon .
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No the Chebacco is not designed for leeboards, however i have done
calculations using L.Francis Herreschoffs work in this area to assure myself
that the design would accept leeboards without any of the problems you
mentioned ... i am intending to use a cross between the Bolger "jochems"
design and a Herreschoff one . I would not be prepared to go with a forward
raking board in order to avoid some of the problems associated with flotsam
and jetsam , however my system will allow a great deal of flexibility so i
will endeavour to give an objective answer to this theory in due course ....
( e.g. after the now belated launching date )
I will also be experimenting with a little " toe in" on the boards to
assess leeway angles .... Simon .
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Get what you deserve with NextCard Visa! ZERO! Rates as low as
0.0% Intro APR, online balance transfers, Rewards Points, no
hidden fees, and much more! Get NextCard today and get the credit
you deserve! Apply now! Get your NextCard Visa at:
http://click.egroups.com/1/974/5/_/3457/_/950237886/
-- Check out your group's private Chat room
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