Re: [bolger] Re: Coastal Cruising
Peter L.,
In "drudging" you actually drag the anchor enough to slow you down but
not stop you completely. The current flowing past your boat gives
enough steerage way to move the boat downstream at an angle, rather than
directly downstream. It's more useful for getting to shore or out of
the channel than for getting to a chosen destination.
Ford Walton
"Peter Lenihan " wrote:
In "drudging" you actually drag the anchor enough to slow you down but
not stop you completely. The current flowing past your boat gives
enough steerage way to move the boat downstream at an angle, rather than
directly downstream. It's more useful for getting to shore or out of
the channel than for getting to a chosen destination.
Ford Walton
"Peter Lenihan " wrote:
>
> Peter,
> Windermere draws 11" fully stocked for a cruise.I am not too
> sure just how deep the anchor has to be submerged for the"drudging"
> effect to actually begin to work........... unless anchoring is the
> modern term for drudging?
>
> I like the idea of being able to carry full stores for
> protracted periods"away". Getting hold of a mechanics outboard manuel
> and taking a night course in outboard engines may go a long way
> toward minimizing all sorts of powerboat ownership "problems".On
> board repairs/servicing is much easier when you already have all the
> comforts of home at hand.
>
> Ultimately,the ability to just haul the engine off the transom
> and bring it in for repairs is so handy that all the associated
> dynamics of inboard installations are just not worth it,for a boat
> which will never be out of sight from land.
>
> Peter L.
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart <pvanderw@o...>"
> <pvanderw@o...> wrote:
>
> >
> > Bolger uses the term "drudging" to mean "dragging an anchor on a
> > short scope to give steerageway through the water with the bow to
> the
> > stream." (Different Boats, p.79) Your river has plenty of current,
> so
> > all you really need is an emergency rudder.
> >
> > Peter
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I'm with you! Floating plastic,weed,dud batteries and dirty fuel have done in more diesels than I can remember in decades afloat. Remote parts of the world can't fix a diesel and don't count on finding fuel. Maybe only the village generator runs diesel but all the locals are buzzing around in aluminum boats with o/b power and using motorbikes and generators [because the village one breaks down so often or the government has forgotten to ship more fuel....Rarotonga please note!] Take two 10 hp 4 strokes geared down to push,not plane,lots of spares and do a short course on serious maintenance and repair at your local college. I am always beseiged with small engine work when in the third world....mostly the government who can't fix their own stuff! Yamahas seem to survive pretty well and a cage around the prop combined with a Kort nozzle ring around the prop circumference does wonders for prop life and thrust. It's worth the effort to get it right and be free of the boatyard hourly rates that are right up there with brain surgeons! Go to it.
Andy Wilson
Doug Harrison <prototype@...> wrote:1/6/2003 9:21:52 AM, "soussouchew <vachew@...>" <vachew@...> wrote:
with a Japanese outboard if I had it to do again.
Doug
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- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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Andy Wilson
Doug Harrison <prototype@...> wrote:1/6/2003 9:21:52 AM, "soussouchew <vachew@...>" <vachew@...> wrote:
>I agree with you in preferring the 4-cycle outboard. You give up aI got the diesel when the plan was to build a world cruiser. The cost of changing now would not be justified. I would go
>lot of space, and introduce potential for leaks, odors, noise, and
>mess with an inboard.
with a Japanese outboard if I had it to do again.
Doug
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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Around here it seems like at least once every year some idiots out fishing
or crabbing in a small boat on a bay or river have their engine conk out
and the ebb tide pulls them out onto the bar where they get swamped or
capsize and drown. :o( I wonder how many of them get rescued at the last
minute so we don't get to read about them in the paper? I'm not one for
promoting more regulation, but perhaps, in addition to fire extinguisher,
PFDs, and whatnot, an anchor should be required when boating in coastal
waters. Of course often the idiots who drift out onto the bar and drown
aren't wearing PFDs either...
or crabbing in a small boat on a bay or river have their engine conk out
and the ebb tide pulls them out onto the bar where they get swamped or
capsize and drown. :o( I wonder how many of them get rescued at the last
minute so we don't get to read about them in the paper? I'm not one for
promoting more regulation, but perhaps, in addition to fire extinguisher,
PFDs, and whatnot, an anchor should be required when boating in coastal
waters. Of course often the idiots who drift out onto the bar and drown
aren't wearing PFDs either...
On Wed, 8 Jan 2003 00:50:25 EST, Bill in MN wrote:
> ...
> Every once and a while some boater ends up drifting down on lock & dam #0 at
> St. Anthony Falls on the Mississippi River - their motor quits and they end
> up drifting helplessly downstream to the dam. I don't know what the bottom
> conditions are like upstream of the dam, but none of the accounts that I
> recall made any mention of any attempt to anchor. The boats are invariably
> lost and the rescues of the occupants are pretty exciting stuff. The fact
> that any of them are rescued at all seems more attributable to the fact that
> the dam is in downtown Minneapolis, so their plights are quickly observed and
> very capable rescue personnel are close at hand, than to any other factor.
>
> Anyway, I think that a good anchor and rode and a sturdy bitt or cleat to
> attach it to would be a good piece of equipment on any boat, power or sail.
> ...
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
Correlation does not imply causation; except, of course, to your cat.
<Craig O'Donnell>
>anchor + radio = ?Of course, on the St. Lawrence as here on Long Island Sound, the
>An anchor might be a lifesaver.
radio might be in the form of a telephone.
Peter
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
Our recent holiday proved to me beyond doubtthat a good anchor and
line was the bees knees , frequently.
Whilst sailing into one landing area it became quickly apparent that
we had to sail an the wrong side of the channel and eventually
attempt to row the folding schooner into a headwind up the channel(
unsuccessfully).
we ended up throwing the grossly overweight anchor ahead of the
boatand hauling over to the shallows.
lots of un-needed fun, next time I plan to utilize a outboard , soon
to be aquired.
The sand anchor was made by me following the sizes of a friends
anchor. the materials were all a bitt heavier thean the commercial
one . the resulting anchor would just sit on the bottomand go no-
where!
When I looked at the anchors on the local boats they were tiny and
light wieght compared to the howitzer i was lugging. they
were all using a simple fishermans anchor of 3/4 rod with a hammered
point
> For years of boating I had always had an anchor rigged and ready torun
> except in small sailing skiffs. It was just part of getting readyto go,
> halyards free, dingy tied off, anchor ready.AK almost
>
> I was out of boating for a while and my first major trip in western
> cost me my life as well as establishing my dislike for outboardswhen I took
> off with out an anchor.Here, Here.
>
> Hasn't happened again.
Our recent holiday proved to me beyond doubtthat a good anchor and
line was the bees knees , frequently.
Whilst sailing into one landing area it became quickly apparent that
we had to sail an the wrong side of the channel and eventually
attempt to row the folding schooner into a headwind up the channel(
unsuccessfully).
we ended up throwing the grossly overweight anchor ahead of the
boatand hauling over to the shallows.
lots of un-needed fun, next time I plan to utilize a outboard , soon
to be aquired.
The sand anchor was made by me following the sizes of a friends
anchor. the materials were all a bitt heavier thean the commercial
one . the resulting anchor would just sit on the bottomand go no-
where!
When I looked at the anchors on the local boats they were tiny and
light wieght compared to the howitzer i was lugging. they
were all using a simple fishermans anchor of 3/4 rod with a hammered
point
For years of boating I had always had an anchor rigged and ready to run
except in small sailing skiffs. It was just part of getting ready to go,
halyards free, dingy tied off, anchor ready.
I was out of boating for a while and my first major trip in western AK almost
cost me my life as well as establishing my dislike for outboards when I took
off with out an anchor.
Hasn't happened again.
HJ
except in small sailing skiffs. It was just part of getting ready to go,
halyards free, dingy tied off, anchor ready.
I was out of boating for a while and my first major trip in western AK almost
cost me my life as well as establishing my dislike for outboards when I took
off with out an anchor.
Hasn't happened again.
HJ
> Anyway, I think that a good anchor and rode and a sturdy bitt or cleat to
> attach it to would be a good piece of equipment on any boat, power or sail.
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
In a message dated 1/6/03 6:58:16 PM Central Standard Time,
prototype@...writes:
hold against the captain - rather the contrary, as in the proverbial "why
don't you stop and ask for directions, honey?".
An anchor might be a lifesaver. It might give you the opportunity to stop,
and think, and ponder whether using the radio might be the prudent thing to
do or you can fix matters in a more self-sufficient manner. Sailing ships
carried lots of anchors, not to use their radios, but to stop, or attempt to,
when the alternatives were less attractive. (I recall reading an account of
an underwater archeological excavation of an ancient Greek vessel that had 4
or 5 anchors on board. Not enough, or not deployed fast enough, apparently.)
Every once and a while some boater ends up drifting down on lock & dam #0 at
St. Anthony Falls on the Mississippi River - their motor quits and they end
up drifting helplessly downstream to the dam. I don't know what the bottom
conditions are like upstream of the dam, but none of the accounts that I
recall made any mention of any attempt to anchor. The boats are invariably
lost and the rescues of the occupants are pretty exciting stuff. The fact
that any of them are rescued at all seems more attributable to the fact that
the dam is in downtown Minneapolis, so their plights are quickly observed and
very capable rescue personnel are close at hand, than to any other factor.
Anyway, I think that a good anchor and rode and a sturdy bitt or cleat to
attach it to would be a good piece of equipment on any boat, power or sail.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
prototype@...writes:
> >anchor + radio = ?Well, the radio may imply asking for help, but I doubt that the crew will
>
> Ahh! But the radio implies asking for help,
hold against the captain - rather the contrary, as in the proverbial "why
don't you stop and ask for directions, honey?".
An anchor might be a lifesaver. It might give you the opportunity to stop,
and think, and ponder whether using the radio might be the prudent thing to
do or you can fix matters in a more self-sufficient manner. Sailing ships
carried lots of anchors, not to use their radios, but to stop, or attempt to,
when the alternatives were less attractive. (I recall reading an account of
an underwater archeological excavation of an ancient Greek vessel that had 4
or 5 anchors on board. Not enough, or not deployed fast enough, apparently.)
Every once and a while some boater ends up drifting down on lock & dam #0 at
St. Anthony Falls on the Mississippi River - their motor quits and they end
up drifting helplessly downstream to the dam. I don't know what the bottom
conditions are like upstream of the dam, but none of the accounts that I
recall made any mention of any attempt to anchor. The boats are invariably
lost and the rescues of the occupants are pretty exciting stuff. The fact
that any of them are rescued at all seems more attributable to the fact that
the dam is in downtown Minneapolis, so their plights are quickly observed and
very capable rescue personnel are close at hand, than to any other factor.
Anyway, I think that a good anchor and rode and a sturdy bitt or cleat to
attach it to would be a good piece of equipment on any boat, power or sail.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Tuesday, January 7, 2003, at 08:10 AM, Peter Lenihan
<ellengaest@...> wrote:
of locomotion. A well chosen stock of spare parts is also wise
whether it be a sail makers palm, a few blocks, some rope or
some points, spark plugs, and fuel filter.
As a long term power boater I find the concern with engine reliability
amusing. From observation and reading I find that:
-The wind is more likely to fail than your motor.
-Most sail boats with motors spend almost as much time
motoring as sailing.
boat is trailable, it is easier to take the whole rig to the mechanic,
and might just take less time.
I love the variety of opinions/experience found in the group.
hal
<ellengaest@...> wrote:
> I like the idea of being able to carry full stores forIt is always wise to be very familiar with all of your boats means
> protracted periods"away". Getting hold of a mechanics outboard manuel
> and taking a night course in outboard engines may go a long way
> toward minimizing all sorts of powerboat ownership "problems".On
> board repairs/servicing is much easier when you already have all the
> comforts of home at hand.
of locomotion. A well chosen stock of spare parts is also wise
whether it be a sail makers palm, a few blocks, some rope or
some points, spark plugs, and fuel filter.
As a long term power boater I find the concern with engine reliability
amusing. From observation and reading I find that:
-The wind is more likely to fail than your motor.
-Most sail boats with motors spend almost as much time
motoring as sailing.
> Ultimately,the ability to just haul the engine off the transomTrue for small outboards. There is a point however when, if the
> and bring it in for repairs is so handy that all the associated
> dynamics of inboard installations are just not worth it,for a boat
> which will never be out of sight from land.
boat is trailable, it is easier to take the whole rig to the mechanic,
and might just take less time.
I love the variety of opinions/experience found in the group.
hal
Ahhh.... yes, now I remember the fun of standing over a comatose o/b
with manual in one hand and a tool in the other. Shredding becomes much
more practical than when considered in cold blood.....
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 1:14 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Coastal Cruising
David:
I'm thinking that I could shred the manuals up and use them for
filters....
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
with manual in one hand and a tool in the other. Shredding becomes much
more practical than when considered in cold blood.....
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 1:14 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Coastal Cruising
David:
I'm thinking that I could shred the manuals up and use them for
filters....
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
David:
I'm thinking that I could shred the manuals up and use them for filters....
But Chuck....
After your elaborate filtration system clogs, why not board your raft of
OB maintenance manuals and paddle ashore for more filters?
TFIC,
David Romasco
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm thinking that I could shred the manuals up and use them for filters....
But Chuck....
After your elaborate filtration system clogs, why not board your raft of
OB maintenance manuals and paddle ashore for more filters?
TFIC,
David Romasco
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
1/7/2003 10:10:31 AM, "Peter Lenihan <ellengaest@...>" <ellengaest@...> wrote:
comparative simplicity. At $600+ to rebuild an outdrive foot the trade off is really between the repairability (and longer
life if maintained) of the inboard vs the disposability (and higher reliability during it's short life) of the outboard.
A Suzuki dealer once described Japanese engines as being like a tube of toothpaste - the toothpaste will always be
there until you squeeze out the last drop. Then you might as well pitch the tube in the trash because it is not worth
refilling.
Doug
> Ultimately,the ability to just haul the engine off the transomThe first time you have to do any significant repair yourself on an outboard you will begin to appreciate the inboard's
>and bring it in for repairs is so handy that all the associated
>dynamics of inboard installations are just not worth it,for a boat
>which will never be out of sight from land.
>
comparative simplicity. At $600+ to rebuild an outdrive foot the trade off is really between the repairability (and longer
life if maintained) of the inboard vs the disposability (and higher reliability during it's short life) of the outboard.
A Suzuki dealer once described Japanese engines as being like a tube of toothpaste - the toothpaste will always be
there until you squeeze out the last drop. Then you might as well pitch the tube in the trash because it is not worth
refilling.
Doug
But Chuck....
After your elaborate filtration system clogs, why not board your raft of
OB maintenance manuals and paddle ashore for more filters?
TFIC,
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 10:29 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Coastal Cruising
<snip> Ultimately,the ability to just haul the engine off the
transom
I couldn't resist jumping in here. From painful personal experinece, it
is easy to get bad fuel, and it is a bitch when it happens. I intend to
install a water separator and filter in my system. I think that will
serve better than a raft of OB maintenance manuels.
Chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
After your elaborate filtration system clogs, why not board your raft of
OB maintenance manuals and paddle ashore for more filters?
TFIC,
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Chuck Leinweber [mailto:chuck@...]
Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 10:29 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Coastal Cruising
<snip> Ultimately,the ability to just haul the engine off the
transom
> and bring it in for repairs is so handy that all the associatedPeter:
> dynamics of inboard installations are just not worth it,for a boat
> which will never be out of sight from land.
>
> Peter L.
I couldn't resist jumping in here. From painful personal experinece, it
is easy to get bad fuel, and it is a bitch when it happens. I intend to
install a water separator and filter in my system. I think that will
serve better than a raft of OB maintenance manuels.
Chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Howdy Peter
my own work that I have the tools to do. Most outboard engines are
2-Strokes, and really aren't that complicated. They are fairly easy to
troubleshoot and effect field repairs with a minimum of tools. So
getting the manual, taking the course, and carrying the tools will get
you to the point where at least you will know if it's an outboard
engine, or an anchor. :)
Good Luck
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
www.myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson
> -----Original Message-----That is a great Idea. I've been a mechanic since I was 16, and do all
> From: Peter Lenihan <ellengaest@...>
> [mailto:ellengaest@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 07, 2003 8:11 AM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Coastal Cruising
>
> Getting hold of a mechanics outboard manuel
> and taking a night course in outboard engines may go a long way
> toward minimizing all sorts of powerboat ownership "problems"
my own work that I have the tools to do. Most outboard engines are
2-Strokes, and really aren't that complicated. They are fairly easy to
troubleshoot and effect field repairs with a minimum of tools. So
getting the manual, taking the course, and carrying the tools will get
you to the point where at least you will know if it's an outboard
engine, or an anchor. :)
Good Luck
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
www.myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson
> I am not tooI believe the idea is that the anchor is dragging along the bottom. I
> sure just how deep the anchor has to be submerged for the"drudging"
> effect to actually begin to work....
can see that this requires a certain kind of bottom. If the anchor
either gets hooked solid in a rock, or slides along a hard bottom
with little resistance, drudging is not going to work very well. Some
soft silt or sand, free of rocks, is what you want.
Of course, you can't supply your own river bottom.
PHV
Hi Chuck,
Totally agree with you on the filter/water separator approach as
I posted earlier to Harry James. With any kind of luck,a big time
belt and suspenders approach regarding my outboards will mean the
manuals collect nothing more then dust :-) and my hands never have
that permanent grease-under-the-nails-and-in-every-crack-for-life
look that mechanics get........won't my Pesky Crew be pleased!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,who enjoyed looking at the submissions for a houseboat
design over on DUCKWORKS,a whole lot!
Totally agree with you on the filter/water separator approach as
I posted earlier to Harry James. With any kind of luck,a big time
belt and suspenders approach regarding my outboards will mean the
manuals collect nothing more then dust :-) and my hands never have
that permanent grease-under-the-nails-and-in-every-crack-for-life
look that mechanics get........won't my Pesky Crew be pleased!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,who enjoyed looking at the submissions for a houseboat
design over on DUCKWORKS,a whole lot!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Leinweber" <chuck@d...> wrote:
> Peter:
>
> I couldn't resist jumping in here. From painful personal
experinece, it is easy to get bad fuel, and it is a bitch when it
happens. I intend to install a water separator and filter in my
system. I think that will serve better than a raft of OB maintenance
manuels.
>
> Chuck
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
<snip> Ultimately,the ability to just haul the engine off the transom
I couldn't resist jumping in here. From painful personal experinece, it is easy to get bad fuel, and it is a bitch when it happens. I intend to install a water separator and filter in my system. I think that will serve better than a raft of OB maintenance manuels.
Chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> and bring it in for repairs is so handy that all the associatedPeter:
> dynamics of inboard installations are just not worth it,for a boat
> which will never be out of sight from land.
>
> Peter L.
I couldn't resist jumping in here. From painful personal experinece, it is easy to get bad fuel, and it is a bitch when it happens. I intend to install a water separator and filter in my system. I think that will serve better than a raft of OB maintenance manuels.
Chuck
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Peter,
Windermere draws 11" fully stocked for a cruise.I am not too
sure just how deep the anchor has to be submerged for the"drudging"
effect to actually begin to work........... unless anchoring is the
modern term for drudging?
I like the idea of being able to carry full stores for
protracted periods"away". Getting hold of a mechanics outboard manuel
and taking a night course in outboard engines may go a long way
toward minimizing all sorts of powerboat ownership "problems".On
board repairs/servicing is much easier when you already have all the
comforts of home at hand.
Ultimately,the ability to just haul the engine off the transom
and bring it in for repairs is so handy that all the associated
dynamics of inboard installations are just not worth it,for a boat
which will never be out of sight from land.
Peter L.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart <pvanderw@o...>"
<pvanderw@o...> wrote:
Windermere draws 11" fully stocked for a cruise.I am not too
sure just how deep the anchor has to be submerged for the"drudging"
effect to actually begin to work........... unless anchoring is the
modern term for drudging?
I like the idea of being able to carry full stores for
protracted periods"away". Getting hold of a mechanics outboard manuel
and taking a night course in outboard engines may go a long way
toward minimizing all sorts of powerboat ownership "problems".On
board repairs/servicing is much easier when you already have all the
comforts of home at hand.
Ultimately,the ability to just haul the engine off the transom
and bring it in for repairs is so handy that all the associated
dynamics of inboard installations are just not worth it,for a boat
which will never be out of sight from land.
Peter L.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "pvanderwaart <pvanderw@o...>"
<pvanderw@o...> wrote:
>the
> Bolger uses the term "drudging" to mean "dragging an anchor on a
> short scope to give steerageway through the water with the bow to
> stream." (Different Boats, p.79) Your river has plenty of current,so
> all you really need is an emergency rudder.
>
> Peter
> enough to broad reach overBolger uses the term "drudging" to mean "dragging an anchor on a
> into a shallow area and out of the shipping channel.
short scope to give steerageway through the water with the bow to the
stream." (Different Boats, p.79) Your river has plenty of current, so
all you really need is an emergency rudder.
Peter
Harry,
Thanks for an excellent tip regarding protecting my gas
supply.This is not something I would have ever considered.
I plan on doing most,if not all,of my boating in reasonably well
populated regions,with rivers,lakes and canals being my principal
territory.Complete engine failure(s) will not ever be really life
threatening.
Mandatory safety equipement,along with a few crazy electronic devices
will ensure that"panic parties" are kept under control.
The idea of keeping a pair of sweeps on board sounds reasonable
also considering the shallow waters I can find myself in without too
much grief to the boats bottom.
However,an ultimate safety device may be a sail!.It would not be
any great trick to rig a rudder/tiller off Windermeres transom and
with the canterboard lowered,there just may be enough lateral area to
make rigging a sprit sail worthwhile......enough to broad reach over
into a shallow area and out of the shipping channel.The mast could be
fee-standing and stored on the roof most of the time.
Doodle time at the nuthouse is about to begin............
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Thanks for an excellent tip regarding protecting my gas
supply.This is not something I would have ever considered.
I plan on doing most,if not all,of my boating in reasonably well
populated regions,with rivers,lakes and canals being my principal
territory.Complete engine failure(s) will not ever be really life
threatening.
Mandatory safety equipement,along with a few crazy electronic devices
will ensure that"panic parties" are kept under control.
The idea of keeping a pair of sweeps on board sounds reasonable
also considering the shallow waters I can find myself in without too
much grief to the boats bottom.
However,an ultimate safety device may be a sail!.It would not be
any great trick to rig a rudder/tiller off Windermeres transom and
with the canterboard lowered,there just may be enough lateral area to
make rigging a sprit sail worthwhile......enough to broad reach over
into a shallow area and out of the shipping channel.The mast could be
fee-standing and stored on the roof most of the time.
Doodle time at the nuthouse is about to begin............
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
. I was talking to a
> dealer one day in Nome and he stated that it was his opinion that
1/2 to 2/3
> of all failures he delt with could be traced back to bad gas.
Because life
> out there is often lived a long way from fuel pumps, there is a lot
of
> opourtunity for contanimation. He believed strongly that all
outboards
> should have a fuel filter in the fuel system as good as any that
you would
> put on an inboard or deisel system. He didn't mean one of those
whimpy
> inline filters either.
>
> HJ
1/6/2003 8:48:13 PM, "pvanderwaart <pvanderw@...>" <pvanderw@...> wrote:
Doug
>There was an incident here on Long Island Sound 3 or 4 years agoHere is a case for the marine radio and flare gun, which together cost less than a good fishing pole.
>where a couple guys in an OB drifted for about three days after their
>motor failed before they were able to flag someone down. Not in the
>dead of winter, either.
Doug
> > Wife unit would never forgive me if sheThere was an incident here on Long Island Sound 3 or 4 years ago
> > had to spend an hour in a drifting boat.
where a couple guys in an OB drifted for about three days after their
motor failed before they were able to flag someone down. Not in the
dead of winter, either.
Since then, I've always made sure to have a supply of fresh water on
board. I figure it would increase survivability by several days.
Seriously.
Peter
1/6/2003 7:19:37 PM, "jeff" <boatbuilding@...> wrote:
trust them for gas - especially on a boat - due to their habit of eventually leaking. Perhaps I could live with one hung
over the transom. Better to lose a few drops into the lake than blow the boat and contents all over the lake.
Doug
>Also, an old fashion sediment bowl (agriculture equipment) to help separateI like sediment bowls for water separation and use them prior to the filter on all our diesel equipment. However, I don't
>water would be a good idea.
trust them for gas - especially on a boat - due to their habit of eventually leaking. Perhaps I could live with one hung
over the transom. Better to lose a few drops into the lake than blow the boat and contents all over the lake.
Doug
1/6/2003 1:32:36 PM, Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
a market that places less importance on reliability than the diesel market. Sort of a "sure glad we bought that boating
insurance policy with no deductible for SeaTow" mentality.
Doug
>During my sojourn in Western Alaska, I developed a strong dislike forFact is that modern outboards are just as sensitive to fuel quality as the diesel. Outboard fuel systems are designed for
>outboards, partially because of their lack of reliability. I was talking to a
>dealer one day in Nome and he stated that it was his opinion that 1/2 to 2/3
>of all failures he delt with could be traced back to bad gas.
>
a market that places less importance on reliability than the diesel market. Sort of a "sure glad we bought that boating
insurance policy with no deductible for SeaTow" mentality.
Doug
1/6/2003 9:21:52 AM, "soussouchew <vachew@...>" <vachew@...> wrote:
with a Japanese outboard if I had it to do again.
Doug
>I agree with you in preferring the 4-cycle outboard. You give up aI got the diesel when the plan was to build a world cruiser. The cost of changing now would not be justified. I would go
>lot of space, and introduce potential for leaks, odors, noise, and
>mess with an inboard.
with a Japanese outboard if I had it to do again.
Doug
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Doug Harrison
Doug,
All the more reason to carry TWO long oars.
Vince
Doug,
All the more reason to carry TWO long oars.
Vince
> Wife unit would never forgive me if sheunwarranted but the fear would be real nonetheless.
> had to spend an hour in a drifting boat. Her fear may be
>
> Doug
1/6/2003 10:46:18 AM, "pvanderwaart <pvanderw@...>" <pvanderw@...> wrote:
Seriously though, I think self reliance is a worthy goal even in protected waters. Wife unit would never forgive me if she
had to spend an hour in a drifting boat. Her fear may be unwarranted but the fear would be real nonetheless.
Doug
>> Many times I have asked myself precisely what will I do ifAhh! But the radio implies asking for help, and that is anathema to the self reliant (read hardheaded) seadog.:)
>> the engine ever quits out on the St.Lawrence...
>
>anchor + radio = ?
Seriously though, I think self reliance is a worthy goal even in protected waters. Wife unit would never forgive me if she
had to spend an hour in a drifting boat. Her fear may be unwarranted but the fear would be real nonetheless.
Doug
Also, an old fashion sediment bowl (agriculture equipment) to help separate
water would be a good idea.
Jeff
water would be a good idea.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal Lynch" <hal@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 3:32 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Coastal Cruising
>
> On Monday, January 6, 2003, at 03:00 PM, Richard Spelling wrote:
>
> > Emm, wonder where you could get a good, small capacity, one? For, say,
> > a 6hp
> > motor?
>
> Any store that sells outboards, I/Os or inboards, and/or their parts.
> Catalogs such as Overton's, Cabellas, Boat Us will have what
> you want also.
>
> >
> >> opourtunity for contanimation. He believed strongly that all
> >> outboards
> >> should have a fuel filter in the fuel system as good as any that you
> >> would
> >> put on an inboard or deisel system. He didn't mean one of those
> >> whimpy
> >> inline filters either.
>
> The engine in my boat has a water separating fuel filter which I don't
> hesitate to replace if I'm the least bit suspicious.
>
> Fuel conditioner in the tank during the off season helps too.
>
> hal
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
On Monday, January 6, 2003, at 03:00 PM, Richard Spelling wrote:
Catalogs such as Overton's, Cabellas, Boat Us will have what
you want also.
hesitate to replace if I'm the least bit suspicious.
Fuel conditioner in the tank during the off season helps too.
hal
> Emm, wonder where you could get a good, small capacity, one? For, say,Any store that sells outboards, I/Os or inboards, and/or their parts.
> a 6hp
> motor?
Catalogs such as Overton's, Cabellas, Boat Us will have what
you want also.
>The engine in my boat has a water separating fuel filter which I don't
>> opourtunity for contanimation. He believed strongly that all
>> outboards
>> should have a fuel filter in the fuel system as good as any that you
>> would
>> put on an inboard or deisel system. He didn't mean one of those
>> whimpy
>> inline filters either.
hesitate to replace if I'm the least bit suspicious.
Fuel conditioner in the tank during the off season helps too.
hal
West Marine has several that are suitable. You use the gas line that came
with your out board put an appropriate npt to hose fitting in place of the
tank hook up and mount the filter on the transom usually. You then buy some
more fuel ine and put the tank hook up on one end and another hose to npt
fitin at the other for the inbound end on the filter.
HJ
with your out board put an appropriate npt to hose fitting in place of the
tank hook up and mount the filter on the transom usually. You then buy some
more fuel ine and put the tank hook up on one end and another hose to npt
fitin at the other for the inbound end on the filter.
HJ
> Amen to that.
>
> Emm, wonder where you could get a good, small capacity, one? For, say, a
> 6hp motor?
>
> > opourtunity for contanimation. He believed strongly that all outboards
> > should have a fuel filter in the fuel system as good as any that you
> > would put on an inboard or deisel system. He didn't mean one of those
> > whimpy inline filters either.
>
Amen to that.
Emm, wonder where you could get a good, small capacity, one? For, say, a 6hp
motor?
Emm, wonder where you could get a good, small capacity, one? For, say, a 6hp
motor?
> opourtunity for contanimation. He believed strongly that all outboards
> should have a fuel filter in the fuel system as good as any that you would
> put on an inboard or deisel system. He didn't mean one of those whimpy
> inline filters either.
>
During my sojourn in Western Alaska, I developed a strong dislike for
outboards, partially because of their lack of reliability. I was talking to a
dealer one day in Nome and he stated that it was his opinion that 1/2 to 2/3
of all failures he delt with could be traced back to bad gas. Because life
out there is often lived a long way from fuel pumps, there is a lot of
opourtunity for contanimation. He believed strongly that all outboards
should have a fuel filter in the fuel system as good as any that you would
put on an inboard or deisel system. He didn't mean one of those whimpy
inline filters either.
HJ
outboards, partially because of their lack of reliability. I was talking to a
dealer one day in Nome and he stated that it was his opinion that 1/2 to 2/3
of all failures he delt with could be traced back to bad gas. Because life
out there is often lived a long way from fuel pumps, there is a lot of
opourtunity for contanimation. He believed strongly that all outboards
should have a fuel filter in the fuel system as good as any that you would
put on an inboard or deisel system. He didn't mean one of those whimpy
inline filters either.
HJ
>
> Recently I received a pamphlet attached to my Trailer Boats magazine on how
> to choose an outboard(s). It states that with the high reliability of
> outboards now days that the most common of all reasons for a motor to fail
> is fuel and generally if one outboard fails the other is soon to follow.
> Carry a small 6 gallon fuel reserve tank of known good fuel to get the
> engine going again is the best insurance against being adrift with today's
> reliable engines.
>
> They recommended twins for off shore travel only and each should have the
> ability to plane the boat otherwise a small kicker for hull speed is just
> as good.
>
> With all that said, I'm now debating with myself to go with one 70 HP
> engine and a kicker than would work on a dingy rather than a pair of say
> 30's.
>
> Jeff
>
Peter,
Yep, I sure do hope for an early spring. I get asked about the launch date a
lot. I just say that Ijust plan to keep pluggin' away and get her in the
water as soon as I can. Summer '03 is a possibility.
I can't speak from experience, but reading Harlan Hubbard's terrific book,
SHANTY BOAT gives me some ideas about the usefulness of long sweeps (oars)
on a large shallow draft boat. Back in the late '40s he drifted down the
Ohio and Mississippi rivers with no engine at all. He sometimes used a
"water sail" which was a square sail with weight on the bottom edge to catch
extra pull from the current. I'm considering a pair of long sweep/push poles
carried on the cabin top.
Another idea I have is a "poor man's bow thruster" using an electric
trolling motor on a removable mount rigged at the forward cockpit.
As a longtime sailer myself, I don't regard a rudder with no propulsion as
much help. I've spent considerable time becalmed-both cruising and racing.
I've lost auxilliary power in a channel that has a current and can attest to
the helpless feeling of holding on to a tiller that won't steer the boat.
BTW, the book SHANTY BOAT is still available through Amazon.com. I highly
recommend it.
Vince
Yep, I sure do hope for an early spring. I get asked about the launch date a
lot. I just say that Ijust plan to keep pluggin' away and get her in the
water as soon as I can. Summer '03 is a possibility.
I can't speak from experience, but reading Harlan Hubbard's terrific book,
SHANTY BOAT gives me some ideas about the usefulness of long sweeps (oars)
on a large shallow draft boat. Back in the late '40s he drifted down the
Ohio and Mississippi rivers with no engine at all. He sometimes used a
"water sail" which was a square sail with weight on the bottom edge to catch
extra pull from the current. I'm considering a pair of long sweep/push poles
carried on the cabin top.
Another idea I have is a "poor man's bow thruster" using an electric
trolling motor on a removable mount rigged at the forward cockpit.
As a longtime sailer myself, I don't regard a rudder with no propulsion as
much help. I've spent considerable time becalmed-both cruising and racing.
I've lost auxilliary power in a channel that has a current and can attest to
the helpless feeling of holding on to a tiller that won't steer the boat.
BTW, the book SHANTY BOAT is still available through Amazon.com. I highly
recommend it.
Vince
Ya, Jeff, but twins look KOOL!
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 06, 2003 10:47 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Coastal Cruising
> With all that said, I'm now debating with myself to go with one 70 HP
engine
> and a kicker than would work on a dingy rather than a pair of say 30's.
>
> Jeff
>
> powerboat.Many times I have asked myself precisely what will I do ifRecently I received a pamphlet attached to my Trailer Boats magazine on how
> the engine ever quits out on the St.Lawrence.
to choose an outboard(s). It states that with the high reliability of
outboards now days that the most common of all reasons for a motor to fail
is fuel and generally if one outboard fails the other is soon to follow.
Carry a small 6 gallon fuel reserve tank of known good fuel to get the
engine going again is the best insurance against being adrift with today's
reliable engines.
They recommended twins for off shore travel only and each should have the
ability to plane the boat otherwise a small kicker for hull speed is just as
good.
With all that said, I'm now debating with myself to go with one 70 HP engine
and a kicker than would work on a dingy rather than a pair of say 30's.
Jeff
> Many times I have asked myself precisely what will I do ifanchor + radio = ?
> the engine ever quits out on the St.Lawrence...
John,
After more then 27 years sailing,Windermere will be my first
powerboat.Many times I have asked myself precisely what will I do if
the engine ever quits out on the St.Lawrence.The best I have been
able to come up with so far,apart from ensuring a full supply of food
and beverage,is to hope the auxilary engine(9.9hp 4 stroke specified)
will work when and if the main engine dies.
Otherwise,it will be the inspiration for a nice fire-side
tale......and a long posting to this group :-)
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Cupp <caj@k...>" <caj@k...>
wrote:
After more then 27 years sailing,Windermere will be my first
powerboat.Many times I have asked myself precisely what will I do if
the engine ever quits out on the St.Lawrence.The best I have been
able to come up with so far,apart from ensuring a full supply of food
and beverage,is to hope the auxilary engine(9.9hp 4 stroke specified)
will work when and if the main engine dies.
Otherwise,it will be the inspiration for a nice fire-side
tale......and a long posting to this group :-)
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Cupp <caj@k...>" <caj@k...>
wrote:
> Don't get me wrong, I have had my share of outboards I/O's andjets
> but they are no blessing on a thirty foot boat in a river with no
> power. With an anchor and rudder you can at least get to shore
> softly. Even a small sail rigged on a boat with a rudder can make
> waiting for a tow much less miserable and unsafe. I would like a
> rudder and inboard or a rudder and outboard on anything longer than
> 30', rowing and paddling are not options at that point.
>
> John
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "soussouchew <vachew@v...>"
<vachew@v...> wrote:
I did not know this.Thanks! Nevertheless,this "new"combo
appears to spoil things all around being not a pure outboard nor a
pure inboard.
I agree that the inboard does complicate things considerably
and makes things a bit more expensive.
You must be itching something terrible for the arrival of warm
weather!Any plans for a summer launching?
Peter Lenihan
<vachew@v...> wrote:
> >Hi Vince,
> Bolger shows these inboard diesels with outdrives. You would
> steer them the same way you would an outboard motor -- with a
> hydraulic steering system.
>
I did not know this.Thanks! Nevertheless,this "new"combo
appears to spoil things all around being not a pure outboard nor a
pure inboard.
I agree that the inboard does complicate things considerably
and makes things a bit more expensive.
You must be itching something terrible for the arrival of warm
weather!Any plans for a summer launching?
Peter Lenihan
Don't get me wrong, I have had my share of outboards I/O's and jets
but they are no blessing on a thirty foot boat in a river with no
power. With an anchor and rudder you can at least get to shore
softly. Even a small sail rigged on a boat with a rudder can make
waiting for a tow much less miserable and unsafe. I would like a
rudder and inboard or a rudder and outboard on anything longer than
30', rowing and paddling are not options at that point.
John
but they are no blessing on a thirty foot boat in a river with no
power. With an anchor and rudder you can at least get to shore
softly. Even a small sail rigged on a boat with a rudder can make
waiting for a tow much less miserable and unsafe. I would like a
rudder and inboard or a rudder and outboard on anything longer than
30', rowing and paddling are not options at that point.
John
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan
<ellengaest@b...>" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
Bolger shows these inboard diesels with outdrives. You would
steer them the same way you would an outboard motor -- with a
hydraulic steering system.
I agree with you in preferring the 4-cycle outboard. You give up a
lot of space, and introduce potential for leaks, odors, noise, and
mess with an inboard.
Vince Chew
<ellengaest@b...>" <ellengaest@b...> wrote:
Bolger shows these inboard diesels with outdrives. You would
steer them the same way you would an outboard motor -- with a
hydraulic steering system.
I agree with you in preferring the 4-cycle outboard. You give up a
lot of space, and introduce potential for leaks, odors, noise, and
mess with an inboard.
Vince Chew
> The inboard diesel idea is a good one until you have tofigure
> out how you are going to turn the boat.Big rudders and forwardoutboards
> stearing stations are not necessarily easier or better then
> which direct 100% of their thrust in turning the boat,even at no
> headway speeds..... not easy with an inboard.
Doug,
You might also wish to look at the "lakes" series of Bolger
designs like CHAMPLAIN and WINDERMERE.Bolger now has fillet pieces up
around the box keel making for gentle and quiet boating.
The inboard diesel idea is a good one until you have to figure
out how you are going to turn the boat.Big rudders and forward
stearing stations are not necessarily easier or better then outboards
which direct 100% of their thrust in turning the boat,even at no
headway speeds..... not easy with an inboard.
The four cycle outboards today must come very close to the same
type of fuel economy one gets from a diesel,no?
Anyhow,just something to think about as you search for your
perfect boat:-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,Windermere builder and big Bolger fan,from along the
shores of the St.Lawrence...........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "doug6949 <prototype@c...>"
<prototype@c...> wrote:
You might also wish to look at the "lakes" series of Bolger
designs like CHAMPLAIN and WINDERMERE.Bolger now has fillet pieces up
around the box keel making for gentle and quiet boating.
The inboard diesel idea is a good one until you have to figure
out how you are going to turn the boat.Big rudders and forward
stearing stations are not necessarily easier or better then outboards
which direct 100% of their thrust in turning the boat,even at no
headway speeds..... not easy with an inboard.
The four cycle outboards today must come very close to the same
type of fuel economy one gets from a diesel,no?
Anyhow,just something to think about as you search for your
perfect boat:-)
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,Windermere builder and big Bolger fan,from along the
shores of the St.Lawrence...........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "doug6949 <prototype@c...>"
<prototype@c...> wrote:
> >both
> Length (marina fees) is not a problem as I have my own dock here.
> Perhaps the Topaz could be scaled up a little to make room for the
> 35hp diesel I already have. The design seems much simpler to build
> than Buehler's Diesel Duck, which I also like. One advantage of
> designs as opposed to a barge is fuel economy.look
>
> Do you know of any Topaz/Dakota/Wyoming's in central FL we could
> at?
>
> Doug
> The Sitka Explorer is a scaled-up Topaz which wouldI have not been able to locate sketches or information on the Sitka Explorer. Know of any websites?
>be ideal for this pupose.
Doug
>> Perhaps the Topaz could be scaled up a little toAlso have a look at the "New Wyoming" with it's larger main house,
>> make room for the
>> 35hp diesel I already have. The design seems much
>> simpler to build
>> than Buehler's Diesel Duck, which I also like. One
>> advantage of both
>> designs as opposed to a barge is fuel economy.
>
and aft dog house. I think it's a tremendously appealing ICW boat. I
came *this* close to send away for the plans. I think Jeff is
building his Wyo with the larger house but with out the aft cabin,
and he's proving that the boat goes together very quickly. Both
versions are very stylish looking. I'm sure PCB could provide a well
reasoned answer as the suitablity of a 35hp diesel for powering her.
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
> Perhaps the Topaz could be scaled up a little toThe Sitka Explorer is a scaled-up Topaz which would
> make room for the
> 35hp diesel I already have. The design seems much
> simpler to build
> than Buehler's Diesel Duck, which I also like. One
> advantage of both
> designs as opposed to a barge is fuel economy.
be ideal for this pupose. You would have to commision
PB to finish the plans, which I understand he is
interested in doing. The Sitka Explorer is not only
scaled up but beefed-up, but still much lighter in
construction and simpler/cheaper to build than the
Diesel Duck, which I agree is also an appealing
design. Sam
__________________________________________________
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Doug,
Bolger offers a couple of scaled-up versions of Topaz. One is called The
Sitka Explorer, the other, actually for off-shore, is the Tahiti. Both at
bout 38-40' are designed for inboard power with an outdrive. Bolger shows
them with aircooled diesels.
My Dakota is the only one I know of being built. My photos are in the
"FILES" under "Dakota" and in the "PHOTOS" under "Vinces Dakota"
Topaz builder, Bradford Raby, used to be on the Bolger list, but hasn't
contributed for a couple of years. He had a summer home near me in northern
Michigan, but bought waterfront property somewhere on either Lake
Okeechobee, or the Caloosahachee R. in FL where he was keeping his boat and
perhaps building a house. I don't know exactly where.
I got a ride on his Topaz in Michigan before he took it south. It was a
great running and very maneuverable boat. One other advantage of the Topaz
and others in that series is that there is some flare in the hull sides
which increases reserve buoyancy as the boat heels.
Vince
Bolger offers a couple of scaled-up versions of Topaz. One is called The
Sitka Explorer, the other, actually for off-shore, is the Tahiti. Both at
bout 38-40' are designed for inboard power with an outdrive. Bolger shows
them with aircooled diesels.
My Dakota is the only one I know of being built. My photos are in the
"FILES" under "Dakota" and in the "PHOTOS" under "Vinces Dakota"
Topaz builder, Bradford Raby, used to be on the Bolger list, but hasn't
contributed for a couple of years. He had a summer home near me in northern
Michigan, but bought waterfront property somewhere on either Lake
Okeechobee, or the Caloosahachee R. in FL where he was keeping his boat and
perhaps building a house. I don't know exactly where.
I got a ride on his Topaz in Michigan before he took it south. It was a
great running and very maneuverable boat. One other advantage of the Topaz
and others in that series is that there is some flare in the hull sides
which increases reserve buoyancy as the boat heels.
Vince
Doug,
IMHO the best coastal power sharpies are the Topaz style designs
http://jboats.weblogger.com/Journal
I had already begun building Dakota before I got a ride in Brad Rabey's
Topaz. Wyoming,(51'6") as designed, has no more cabin space than Dakota (37'
6"), and not much more than Topaz(31'). What it does have is more flat water
speed with up to 150 HP. It also has lots of deck area aft. Keep in mind
that marinas charge by the foot, and that there are speed limits on much of
the intracoastal and canals. Personally, in choppy conditions I would
prefer a boat with rocker and a buoyant bow so the bow can lift more easily.
Wyoming and Idaho are basically flat in profile. Dakota has the most rocker,
but presents a 5' triangle of flat bottom to oncoming waves so it will
lift, but will be noisier (even at anchor). Topaz has a V forward to
increase buoyancy and reduce pounding. I would fill the false V with foam to
reduce the hollow drum effect.
Vince Chew
IMHO the best coastal power sharpies are the Topaz style designs
http://jboats.weblogger.com/Journal
I had already begun building Dakota before I got a ride in Brad Rabey's
Topaz. Wyoming,(51'6") as designed, has no more cabin space than Dakota (37'
6"), and not much more than Topaz(31'). What it does have is more flat water
speed with up to 150 HP. It also has lots of deck area aft. Keep in mind
that marinas charge by the foot, and that there are speed limits on much of
the intracoastal and canals. Personally, in choppy conditions I would
prefer a boat with rocker and a buoyant bow so the bow can lift more easily.
Wyoming and Idaho are basically flat in profile. Dakota has the most rocker,
but presents a 5' triangle of flat bottom to oncoming waves so it will
lift, but will be noisier (even at anchor). Topaz has a V forward to
increase buoyancy and reduce pounding. I would fill the false V with foam to
reduce the hollow drum effect.
Vince Chew
Thanks Vince;
I just looked at the jboats site and am much impressed with the
Topaz. The swim ladder might also be modified to use as a gangplank
for us geriatrics.
Length (marina fees) is not a problem as I have my own dock here.
Perhaps the Topaz could be scaled up a little to make room for the
35hp diesel I already have. The design seems much simpler to build
than Buehler's Diesel Duck, which I also like. One advantage of both
designs as opposed to a barge is fuel economy.
Do you know of any Topaz/Dakota/Wyoming's in central FL we could look
at?
Doug
I just looked at the jboats site and am much impressed with the
Topaz. The swim ladder might also be modified to use as a gangplank
for us geriatrics.
Length (marina fees) is not a problem as I have my own dock here.
Perhaps the Topaz could be scaled up a little to make room for the
35hp diesel I already have. The design seems much simpler to build
than Buehler's Diesel Duck, which I also like. One advantage of both
designs as opposed to a barge is fuel economy.
Do you know of any Topaz/Dakota/Wyoming's in central FL we could look
at?
Doug