Re: [bolger] Re: Router Bits & Preference (Straight Clean Cuts)
Hi,
The two best blades that I have found are:
20335-BT450J, 4" 10 TPI
Fast, Smooth Cuts in Wood, Plastic and Composition Material: 3/16" - 1-1/2"
( 5-38mm) Thick.
20333-BT320JC 3" 20 TPI
Fine Contour Cutting in Wood, Veneer, Laminate and Plastic: 1/16" - 1/2"
(1.5-13mm) Thick.
I added the description from Lenox web site at:
http://www.lenoxsaw.com/spunvjig.htm
Note that Lenox says that they are designed for wood, but will cut
metal as well.
I would think that anyone who caters to woodworkers and sells Lenox would
have these in stock.
James
The two best blades that I have found are:
20335-BT450J, 4" 10 TPI
Fast, Smooth Cuts in Wood, Plastic and Composition Material: 3/16" - 1-1/2"
( 5-38mm) Thick.
20333-BT320JC 3" 20 TPI
Fine Contour Cutting in Wood, Veneer, Laminate and Plastic: 1/16" - 1/2"
(1.5-13mm) Thick.
I added the description from Lenox web site at:
http://www.lenoxsaw.com/spunvjig.htm
Note that Lenox says that they are designed for wood, but will cut
metal as well.
I would think that anyone who caters to woodworkers and sells Lenox would
have these in stock.
James
----- Original Message -----
From: <wmrpage@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, January 20, 2003 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Router Bits & Preference (Straight Clean Cuts)
> In a message dated 1/19/03 10:04:24 PM Central Standard Time,
>james@...writes:
>
> > Lenox makes a
> > jig saw blade that will rival any circular saw blade I've ever seen for
a
> > smooth cut.
>
> What's the model name or number for this item? Do any big retailers carry
it,
> or does one have to seek out specialty jobbers?
>
> I think of my cheap B&D jig saw as a rather nasty tool which I use only
when
> I can't think of an alternative. Most times that I find myself using it I
> find myself wondering why I haven't bought a hand jig saw or a keyhole saw
or
> regretting not having a Sawzall or a bandsaw. I really don't want any
trial
> blades but I might pick one up sometime if I knew what to look for.
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
In a message dated 1/19/03 10:04:24 PM Central Standard Time,
james@...writes:
or does one have to seek out specialty jobbers?
I think of my cheap B&D jig saw as a rather nasty tool which I use only when
I can't think of an alternative. Most times that I find myself using it I
find myself wondering why I haven't bought a hand jig saw or a keyhole saw or
regretting not having a Sawzall or a bandsaw. I really don't want any trial
blades but I might pick one up sometime if I knew what to look for.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
james@...writes:
> Lenox makes aWhat's the model name or number for this item? Do any big retailers carry it,
> jig saw blade that will rival any circular saw blade I've ever seen for a
> smooth cut.
or does one have to seek out specialty jobbers?
I think of my cheap B&D jig saw as a rather nasty tool which I use only when
I can't think of an alternative. Most times that I find myself using it I
find myself wondering why I haven't bought a hand jig saw or a keyhole saw or
regretting not having a Sawzall or a bandsaw. I really don't want any trial
blades but I might pick one up sometime if I knew what to look for.
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I would like to sample that blade. info do you need.
AARON
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
AARON
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Yahoo! Mail Plus - Powerful. Affordable. Sign up now
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Hi Doug, the Germans must have an aptitude for sabre/jigsaw design.
Mine is an AEG. The tool shop had most brands, but they told me (15
years ago) that the AEG was the best. He compared the blade holding
and bearing design, which was noticeably stronger than the Japanese
models.
Of course designs may have changed since then, but I never regretted
paying a bit more for a better machine.
DonB
Mine is an AEG. The tool shop had most brands, but they told me (15
years ago) that the AEG was the best. He compared the blade holding
and bearing design, which was noticeably stronger than the Japanese
models.
Of course designs may have changed since then, but I never regretted
paying a bit more for a better machine.
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Doug Harrison <prototype@c...> wrote:
> The Bosch saber saw is (or was) made by Scintilla of Swiss fame.
I have several Bosch power tools and love them all.
> Would not buy any more because American Bosch has earned a
reputation for very bad customer support. Bummer!
>
> Bosch tools are getting harder to find because hardware stores are
dropping them for the above reason. Home Depot
> still has them but that won't help much for parts.
>
> Doug
Hi,
I'm in the wholesale distribution business, and one of the lines that we
sell is Lenox saw blades. Lenox makes a
jig saw blade that will rival any circular saw blade I've ever seen for a
smooth cut. I'll send a sample to the first
couple of Bolger group members that ask for one. Only
condition is, cut something with it and then give us a report.
Let me know if you want one.
James Fuller
I'm in the wholesale distribution business, and one of the lines that we
sell is Lenox saw blades. Lenox makes a
jig saw blade that will rival any circular saw blade I've ever seen for a
smooth cut. I'll send a sample to the first
couple of Bolger group members that ask for one. Only
condition is, cut something with it and then give us a report.
Let me know if you want one.
James Fuller
----- Original Message -----
From: <gbb132000@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, January 19, 2003 5:46 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Router Bits & Preference (Straight Clean Cuts)
> I'd agree that table saw, circular saw (with GOOD blade and
> straightedge), and router all are better for clean work. And for a
> curved cut with a super smooth edge, the router may take the prize.
>
> For stich and glue and other applications where you are cutting a
> curve in thin stock, and a super smooth cut is not a major concern,
> the saber saw is the way to go. It's light, handy, fast, and with
> quality blades, the cut quality will suprise you.
> gbb
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
> wrote:
> > I have a Bosch saber saw and agree it's a real tool. However, when
> I want a
> > furniture straight cut that I don't have to finish, I'll use the
> router,
> > especially since I don't have a table saw.
> >
> > Paul Esterle
> > Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
> > Bristol, TN/Newark De
> >http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I'd agree that table saw, circular saw (with GOOD blade and
straightedge), and router all are better for clean work. And for a
curved cut with a super smooth edge, the router may take the prize.
For stich and glue and other applications where you are cutting a
curve in thin stock, and a super smooth cut is not a major concern,
the saber saw is the way to go. It's light, handy, fast, and with
quality blades, the cut quality will suprise you.
gbb
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
wrote:
straightedge), and router all are better for clean work. And for a
curved cut with a super smooth edge, the router may take the prize.
For stich and glue and other applications where you are cutting a
curve in thin stock, and a super smooth cut is not a major concern,
the saber saw is the way to go. It's light, handy, fast, and with
quality blades, the cut quality will suprise you.
gbb
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
wrote:
> I have a Bosch saber saw and agree it's a real tool. However, whenI want a
> furniture straight cut that I don't have to finish, I'll use therouter,
> especially since I don't have a table saw.
>
> Paul Esterle
> Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
> Bristol, TN/Newark De
>http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
The Bosch saber saw is (or was) made by Scintilla of Swiss fame. I have several Bosch power tools and love them all.
Would not buy any more because American Bosch has earned a reputation for very bad customer support. Bummer!
Bosch tools are getting harder to find because hardware stores are dropping them for the above reason. Home Depot
still has them but that won't help much for parts.
Doug
Would not buy any more because American Bosch has earned a reputation for very bad customer support. Bummer!
Bosch tools are getting harder to find because hardware stores are dropping them for the above reason. Home Depot
still has them but that won't help much for parts.
Doug
I have a Bosch saber saw and agree it's a real tool. However, when I want a
furniture straight cut that I don't have to finish, I'll use the router,
especially since I don't have a table saw.
Paul Esterle
Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
Bristol, TN/Newark De
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
furniture straight cut that I don't have to finish, I'll use the router,
especially since I don't have a table saw.
Paul Esterle
Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
Bristol, TN/Newark De
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
I prefer using a jigsaw to cut out the plywood. Just follow the
pencil line. I can't imagine using a router OR a circular saw. But
that is a preference - not a rule. ;o)
Speaking of 'getting what you pay for', I've used a $35.00 jig saw,
and my current $125.00+ Bosch jig saw. There is so much difference
it can't be described. Anyone who has ever used a cheap jig saw and
become frustrated should beg, borrow or steal a real one. You will
be amazed. If nothing else, try quality blades. Bosch makes both
the 'T' shank for quality saws and the 'universal' style for the old
fashioned kind. Good blades make a difference.
I have the Bosch jig saw, and a Porter Cable circular saw. I love
them both. If I was forced to give one of them up, it would be the
Porter Cable circular. It's a great tool, but I'd rather be stuck
with a cheap circular saw than a cheap jig saw.
gbb
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
pencil line. I can't imagine using a router OR a circular saw. But
that is a preference - not a rule. ;o)
Speaking of 'getting what you pay for', I've used a $35.00 jig saw,
and my current $125.00+ Bosch jig saw. There is so much difference
it can't be described. Anyone who has ever used a cheap jig saw and
become frustrated should beg, borrow or steal a real one. You will
be amazed. If nothing else, try quality blades. Bosch makes both
the 'T' shank for quality saws and the 'universal' style for the old
fashioned kind. Good blades make a difference.
I have the Bosch jig saw, and a Porter Cable circular saw. I love
them both. If I was forced to give one of them up, it would be the
Porter Cable circular. It's a great tool, but I'd rather be stuck
with a cheap circular saw than a cheap jig saw.
gbb
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
> Hi Paul,of
>
> I'm wondering...
>
> Has anyone used a router with a straight bit (1/2" or 5/8") to cut
> out hull and side panels?
>
> I imagine one could lay down the offsets (adjusting for the width
> the router base)... set the batten in place... and when a faircurve
> is achieved, run the router along the batten to cut out the panel.with
> The curve that is cut would mirror the curve of the batten.
>
> A circular saw can be somewhat brutish at times.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
> wrote:
> > > Also, My favorite router bit is a 1/2"x 1" cutter, Trim bit,
> a
> > > 1/2" bearing on the end, with a 1/2" shank.
> > > I used one of those to "Cut Out" most of the plywood on my boat.
> >
> > Yup, that is also my favorite bit. I use it to cut plywood panels
> > accurately without having to resort to a table saw.
> >
> > Paul Esterle
> > Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
> > Bristol, TN/Newark De
> >http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
If you offset the batten by the distance from the edge of the router base to
the cutting edge of the bit, you can just nail or screw the batten in place.
No danger of hitting the nails or screws then.
Paul Esterle
Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
Bristol, TN/Newark De
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
the cutting edge of the bit, you can just nail or screw the batten in place.
No danger of hitting the nails or screws then.
Paul Esterle
Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
Bristol, TN/Newark De
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
----- Original Message -----
From: <jhkohnen@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2003 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Router Bits & Preference
> I did that on my aborted foam sandwich brick. It worked fine, but the
setup
> was a PITA. More trouble than it was worth. How do you plan to hold the
> batten in place? Clamps are out, and you can't have any nails sticking
> through the ply where the router base is going to go, if you're using a
> standard bottom bearing bit. I used a bit with the bearing _above_ the
> cutting blades, made sure the heads of the nails were below the top of the
> batten and put a few _through_ the batten to hold it straight (hard on the
> batten). I glued a piece of wood the same height as the batten to the
bottom
> of my router base to hold the machine flat. I cut close to the line with a
> saber saw, then, after all that, it only took a few moments to cut neatly
to
> the curve. I won't try it again. <g>
>
> On Fri, 17 Jan 2003 13:41:22 -0000, Tom wrote:
> > Hi Paul,
> >
> > I'm wondering...
> >
> > Has anyone used a router with a straight bit (1/2" or 5/8") to cut
> > out hull and side panels?
> >
> > I imagine one could lay down the offsets (adjusting for the width of
> > the router base)... set the batten in place... and when a fair curve
> > is achieved, run the router along the batten to cut out the panel.
> > The curve that is cut would mirror the curve of the batten.
> >
> > A circular saw can be somewhat brutish at times.
> >
> > Thoughts?
>
> --
> John <jkohnen@...>
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> People say that life is the thing, but I prefer reading.
> <Logan Pearsall Smith>
>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I did that on my aborted foam sandwich brick. It worked fine, but the setup
was a PITA. More trouble than it was worth. How do you plan to hold the
batten in place? Clamps are out, and you can't have any nails sticking
through the ply where the router base is going to go, if you're using a
standard bottom bearing bit. I used a bit with the bearing _above_ the
cutting blades, made sure the heads of the nails were below the top of the
batten and put a few _through_ the batten to hold it straight (hard on the
batten). I glued a piece of wood the same height as the batten to the bottom
of my router base to hold the machine flat. I cut close to the line with a
saber saw, then, after all that, it only took a few moments to cut neatly to
the curve. I won't try it again. <g>
was a PITA. More trouble than it was worth. How do you plan to hold the
batten in place? Clamps are out, and you can't have any nails sticking
through the ply where the router base is going to go, if you're using a
standard bottom bearing bit. I used a bit with the bearing _above_ the
cutting blades, made sure the heads of the nails were below the top of the
batten and put a few _through_ the batten to hold it straight (hard on the
batten). I glued a piece of wood the same height as the batten to the bottom
of my router base to hold the machine flat. I cut close to the line with a
saber saw, then, after all that, it only took a few moments to cut neatly to
the curve. I won't try it again. <g>
On Fri, 17 Jan 2003 13:41:22 -0000, Tom wrote:
> Hi Paul,
>
> I'm wondering...
>
> Has anyone used a router with a straight bit (1/2" or 5/8") to cut
> out hull and side panels?
>
> I imagine one could lay down the offsets (adjusting for the width of
> the router base)... set the batten in place... and when a fair curve
> is achieved, run the router along the batten to cut out the panel.
> The curve that is cut would mirror the curve of the batten.
>
> A circular saw can be somewhat brutish at times.
>
> Thoughts?
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
People say that life is the thing, but I prefer reading.
<Logan Pearsall Smith>
I agree, John. If you are building a chine log boat, you want to trim the ply to match the log after the latter is attached. There is no other way to get a good fit. If you are building a S&G boat, the tape covers the edges of the plywood, so the smoothness of the edge is irrelevant. Either way, the original cut does not need to be nice.
Chuck
I've used a trimming bit many times for cutting up to 1/2" plywood to
shape after its already on the boat.
Sounds like your idea might work pretty well as long as your nesting
can tolerate the loss of 1/2" or more for each cut. But I also wonder
if you underestimate the complexity of laying out and fixing the
batten you'd need to guide the router. Try it out and let us know the
results!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Chuck
I've used a trimming bit many times for cutting up to 1/2" plywood to
shape after its already on the boat.
Sounds like your idea might work pretty well as long as your nesting
can tolerate the loss of 1/2" or more for each cut. But I also wonder
if you underestimate the complexity of laying out and fixing the
batten you'd need to guide the router. Try it out and let us know the
results!
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
99.9% of the time, I use the router and trimmer bit to produce panels with
straight edges. I don't have any stationary power tools. I use a bench
consisting of a flush core door sitting on two plastic saw horses. One end
of the door has a piece of aluminum angle screwed to it, one leg vertical on
the end and the other side below. This becomes the guide for the ball
bearing on the router bit. I mark the piece to be cut and clamp it to the
table with the mark aligned with the edge of the aluminum. The router makes
a quick and clean cut. You can see some of the router work on page 108 of
the January issue of SAIL. In particular, the white cabinet in one photo was
made by this method. 1/2" MDO ply covered with White Formica laminate and
trimmed to size with the router/table combination.
I've completely rebuilt the interior of my Columbia 10.7 using this method.
Paul Esterle
Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
Bristol, TN/Newark De
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
straight edges. I don't have any stationary power tools. I use a bench
consisting of a flush core door sitting on two plastic saw horses. One end
of the door has a piece of aluminum angle screwed to it, one leg vertical on
the end and the other side below. This becomes the guide for the ball
bearing on the router bit. I mark the piece to be cut and clamp it to the
table with the mark aligned with the edge of the aluminum. The router makes
a quick and clean cut. You can see some of the router work on page 108 of
the January issue of SAIL. In particular, the white cabinet in one photo was
made by this method. 1/2" MDO ply covered with White Formica laminate and
trimmed to size with the router/table combination.
I've completely rebuilt the interior of my Columbia 10.7 using this method.
Paul Esterle
Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
Bristol, TN/Newark De
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
That would work, but I can't see the point unless the router is the
only tool you own, or you own a shopbot.com. The router smooths
pretty well, but is more trouble than a plane. It could be a good
deal for paired or or multiple pieces, and I have used it to ensure a
second piece is identical to the first I cut. More frequently, i use
it to start the rounding over of decks, or to open out daggerboar
slots.
There will be a lot of side thrust trying to cut 1/2" ply, so your
batten would need to be pretty stiff, and well secured. You will
produce massive amounts of dust and noise. I would never do it for a
preglassed panel, though I haven't tried any of the routers that have
built in dust extraction.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
only tool you own, or you own a shopbot.com. The router smooths
pretty well, but is more trouble than a plane. It could be a good
deal for paired or or multiple pieces, and I have used it to ensure a
second piece is identical to the first I cut. More frequently, i use
it to start the rounding over of decks, or to open out daggerboar
slots.
There will be a lot of side thrust trying to cut 1/2" ply, so your
batten would need to be pretty stiff, and well secured. You will
produce massive amounts of dust and noise. I would never do it for a
preglassed panel, though I haven't tried any of the routers that have
built in dust extraction.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
> Hi Paul,of
>
> I'm wondering...
>
> Has anyone used a router with a straight bit (1/2" or 5/8") to cut
> out hull and side panels?
>
> I imagine one could lay down the offsets (adjusting for the width
> the router base)... set the batten in place... and when a faircurve
> is achieved, run the router along the batten to cut out the panel.with
> The curve that is cut would mirror the curve of the batten.
>
> A circular saw can be somewhat brutish at times.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Tom
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
> wrote:
> > > Also, My favorite router bit is a 1/2"x 1" cutter, Trim bit,
> a
> > > 1/2" bearing on the end, with a 1/2" shank.
> > > I used one of those to "Cut Out" most of the plywood on my boat.
> >
> > Yup, that is also my favorite bit. I use it to cut plywood panels
> > accurately without having to resort to a table saw.
> >
> > Paul Esterle
> > Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
> > Bristol, TN/Newark De
> >http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
I've used a trimming bit many times for cutting up to 1/2" plywood to
shape after its already on the boat.
Sounds like your idea might work pretty well as long as your nesting
can tolerate the loss of 1/2" or more for each cut. But I also wonder
if you underestimate the complexity of laying out and fixing the
batten you'd need to guide the router. Try it out and let us know the
results!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
shape after its already on the boat.
Sounds like your idea might work pretty well as long as your nesting
can tolerate the loss of 1/2" or more for each cut. But I also wonder
if you underestimate the complexity of laying out and fixing the
batten you'd need to guide the router. Try it out and let us know the
results!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
> Hi Paul,of
>
> I'm wondering...
>
> Has anyone used a router with a straight bit (1/2" or 5/8") to cut
> out hull and side panels?
>
> I imagine one could lay down the offsets (adjusting for the width
> the router base)... set the batten in place... and when a faircurve
> is achieved, run the router along the batten to cut out the panel.
> The curve that is cut would mirror the curve of the batten.
>
> A circular saw can be somewhat brutish at times.
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Tom
Hi Paul,
I'm wondering...
Has anyone used a router with a straight bit (1/2" or 5/8") to cut
out hull and side panels?
I imagine one could lay down the offsets (adjusting for the width of
the router base)... set the batten in place... and when a fair curve
is achieved, run the router along the batten to cut out the panel.
The curve that is cut would mirror the curve of the batten.
A circular saw can be somewhat brutish at times.
Thoughts?
Tom
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
wrote:
I'm wondering...
Has anyone used a router with a straight bit (1/2" or 5/8") to cut
out hull and side panels?
I imagine one could lay down the offsets (adjusting for the width of
the router base)... set the batten in place... and when a fair curve
is achieved, run the router along the batten to cut out the panel.
The curve that is cut would mirror the curve of the batten.
A circular saw can be somewhat brutish at times.
Thoughts?
Tom
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
wrote:
> > Also, My favorite router bit is a 1/2"x 1" cutter, Trim bit, witha
> > 1/2" bearing on the end, with a 1/2" shank.
> > I used one of those to "Cut Out" most of the plywood on my boat.
>
> Yup, that is also my favorite bit. I use it to cut plywood panels
> accurately without having to resort to a table saw.
>
> Paul Esterle
> Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
> Bristol, TN/Newark De
>http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
> Also, My favorite router bit is a 1/2"x 1" cutter, Trim bit, with aYup, that is also my favorite bit. I use it to cut plywood panels
> 1/2" bearing on the end, with a 1/2" shank.
> I used one of those to "Cut Out" most of the plywood on my boat.
accurately without having to resort to a table saw.
Paul Esterle
Bryn Awel (Columbia 10.7)
Bristol, TN/Newark De
http://pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
I just stumbled back in here after being away for a while.
I have to admit, while I was gone, I built a 20 non-Bolger power boat.
I'm an amateur boat builder, but professonal furniture builder.
I have found as important as the brand of bit, maybe more so, is
where you get them sharpened Well.
Carbide bits do get dull, and having them sharpened by someone that
knows how to do it Right is important.
See is you can find a Small shop, nearby, and talk to them.
A Good bit Can be sharpened many times, if done right.
BTW, one way to tell if you are getting you money's worth on a bit
is to see how much carbide Is there.
Some have a lot. (ususaly the more expensive) Some have very little.
Even some carbide bits are made as throw aways after they get dull.
(some cheap laminate cutters that get all gummed up with contact
cement.)
A person that Knows how to sharpen a bit will only take off as much
as necessary to get a sharp edge and save you a Lot of money.
Some shops go for fast, and just hog off a Lot.
The less you can take off and still get a good edge, the more times
a bit can be sharpened.
A $30 bit that can be sharpened many times is cheaper than a $10 bit
that can only be sharpened once, if at all.
Also try to be Very carful when using or storing the bits, so they
don't get chipped. Don't hit any hidden nails or screws. Duh
A dull bit can just be "Touched Up" to get it sharp.
A Chipped bit will take a lot of grinding.
Some small places will even charge by the time they have to spend to
sharpen at bit. A "Touch Up" will be cheaper than a Grind down.
Watch them grind some bits, if you get chance.
If you find a Good Place to get them sharpened, buy the bits from
them.
If they are a good place, they will be doing business with
professionals.
Being a professional doen't mean you have all kinds of money and
alway buy the most expensive bits.
Repeat buisiness is the key to most business, so, if you buy your
bits from the same guy that sharpens them. He will want You to be
happy, and sell you good bits, at a reasonable price, and make sure
you are happy with his bits, and his sharpening. He'll even tell you
when it is not worth Trying to sharpen a bit. Very thin, unsuppored
carbide can fly off, like a bullet. Not a good thing.
(Were good eye protection. Duh, again.)
He may even stop what he's doing to sharpen The Bit you just Have to
have Right now. (Buy a backup from him when you can afford it, when
he does that, and everybody will be happy)
He may be able to find (or make) a special bit you might need too.
You can just call him up, and say, "I need a bit" and it will usually
be there, the next day, so if your Time is worth anythig to you,
that is important too.
I'd rather be building a boat, than wandering around some big Box
store, trying to save a couple of bucks on a router bit.
Do try to keep the bits sharp. I Know that's hard to do, especially
if you only have One bit of a kind and just have to use it " Just A
little longer" befor you get it sharpened.
Dull bits cause chipping, tear out, burning, and can be dangerous,
are just harder to use and, finally, just don't cut any more.
It is also important to Get a good router that has the power to drive
the bits a max speed, too. An under powered router can damage bits,
and is just a pain to use. A good router will last a Long time, if
cared for properly. Much nicer to use, and will last three times as
long as one that cost half the money. (You do the math)
Always get and use 1/2" shank router bits where you can.
The difference in 1/2" and 1/4" is amazing, and they usually cost no
more.
Also, My favorite router bit is a 1/2"x 1" cutter, Trim bit, with a
1/2" bearing on the end, with a 1/2" shank.
I used one of those to "Cut Out" most of the plywood on my boat.
I really need to get that bit sharpend. I think I will buy another
when I take it in, too.
Well
My Two "Bits" worth.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
"PK-20" Designer <g>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
I have to admit, while I was gone, I built a 20 non-Bolger power boat.
I'm an amateur boat builder, but professonal furniture builder.
I have found as important as the brand of bit, maybe more so, is
where you get them sharpened Well.
Carbide bits do get dull, and having them sharpened by someone that
knows how to do it Right is important.
See is you can find a Small shop, nearby, and talk to them.
A Good bit Can be sharpened many times, if done right.
BTW, one way to tell if you are getting you money's worth on a bit
is to see how much carbide Is there.
Some have a lot. (ususaly the more expensive) Some have very little.
Even some carbide bits are made as throw aways after they get dull.
(some cheap laminate cutters that get all gummed up with contact
cement.)
A person that Knows how to sharpen a bit will only take off as much
as necessary to get a sharp edge and save you a Lot of money.
Some shops go for fast, and just hog off a Lot.
The less you can take off and still get a good edge, the more times
a bit can be sharpened.
A $30 bit that can be sharpened many times is cheaper than a $10 bit
that can only be sharpened once, if at all.
Also try to be Very carful when using or storing the bits, so they
don't get chipped. Don't hit any hidden nails or screws. Duh
A dull bit can just be "Touched Up" to get it sharp.
A Chipped bit will take a lot of grinding.
Some small places will even charge by the time they have to spend to
sharpen at bit. A "Touch Up" will be cheaper than a Grind down.
Watch them grind some bits, if you get chance.
If you find a Good Place to get them sharpened, buy the bits from
them.
If they are a good place, they will be doing business with
professionals.
Being a professional doen't mean you have all kinds of money and
alway buy the most expensive bits.
Repeat buisiness is the key to most business, so, if you buy your
bits from the same guy that sharpens them. He will want You to be
happy, and sell you good bits, at a reasonable price, and make sure
you are happy with his bits, and his sharpening. He'll even tell you
when it is not worth Trying to sharpen a bit. Very thin, unsuppored
carbide can fly off, like a bullet. Not a good thing.
(Were good eye protection. Duh, again.)
He may even stop what he's doing to sharpen The Bit you just Have to
have Right now. (Buy a backup from him when you can afford it, when
he does that, and everybody will be happy)
He may be able to find (or make) a special bit you might need too.
You can just call him up, and say, "I need a bit" and it will usually
be there, the next day, so if your Time is worth anythig to you,
that is important too.
I'd rather be building a boat, than wandering around some big Box
store, trying to save a couple of bucks on a router bit.
Do try to keep the bits sharp. I Know that's hard to do, especially
if you only have One bit of a kind and just have to use it " Just A
little longer" befor you get it sharpened.
Dull bits cause chipping, tear out, burning, and can be dangerous,
are just harder to use and, finally, just don't cut any more.
It is also important to Get a good router that has the power to drive
the bits a max speed, too. An under powered router can damage bits,
and is just a pain to use. A good router will last a Long time, if
cared for properly. Much nicer to use, and will last three times as
long as one that cost half the money. (You do the math)
Always get and use 1/2" shank router bits where you can.
The difference in 1/2" and 1/4" is amazing, and they usually cost no
more.
Also, My favorite router bit is a 1/2"x 1" cutter, Trim bit, with a
1/2" bearing on the end, with a 1/2" shank.
I used one of those to "Cut Out" most of the plywood on my boat.
I really need to get that bit sharpend. I think I will buy another
when I take it in, too.
Well
My Two "Bits" worth.
Pat Patteson
Molalla, Oregon
"PK-20" Designer <g>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
> Hello Group:unable
>
> I joined this group last summer and have been reading up once in a
> while. I had planned to build a Gloucester Gull in the fall, but my
> budget was cut due to moving to a new house. Since I have been
> to build any boats, I've focused some time on honing my router
> skills.
>
> My question to the group is:
>
> How important is brand when it comes to router bits?
>
> I use carbide tipped, but which is the best for a back yard builder?
>
> Comments welcome.
>
> Tom Rund
>
> p.s. I hope this isn't too far off topic.
In general the bits (shaper and router ) from Grizzly are a fair trade of price and quality.
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "trund1024 <trund1024@a...>"
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
right size, I don't see a lot of evidence that super premium bits are
all that much of a deal. For instance bits with some beef supporting
the carbide insert are a good thing, they reduce chipping. On the
other hand expensive safety bits don't seem any more sape for having
the metal go full circle, at least not int he smaller sizes.
Colourful point? Couldn't care less, but they might be safer if one
is using a table mounted router unsafely. Ball bearing failure can
be a problem, but it has only happened to me a few times. bearing
loss? I prefer bits with capscrews holding the bearing on, rather
thant he lower part of the bit having a threaded stud to with a tiny
nut.
For myself, I rate premium bits as excessive in most cases, cheap
bits are occasionaly a poor investment, while midpriced bits the best
value, generaly. In production set-ups, I would not be the least bit
surprised if better bits are more durable. But unless you are
working in a millwork situation, that isn't likely to be an issue.
By the way, you can sharpen carbide on some japanese waterstones.
<trund1024@a...> wrote:
> Thanks for the replies everyone.Well actualy I don't go for that. As long as the shanks are the
>
> I'll stick with "You get what you pay for".
>
> Tom
right size, I don't see a lot of evidence that super premium bits are
all that much of a deal. For instance bits with some beef supporting
the carbide insert are a good thing, they reduce chipping. On the
other hand expensive safety bits don't seem any more sape for having
the metal go full circle, at least not int he smaller sizes.
Colourful point? Couldn't care less, but they might be safer if one
is using a table mounted router unsafely. Ball bearing failure can
be a problem, but it has only happened to me a few times. bearing
loss? I prefer bits with capscrews holding the bearing on, rather
thant he lower part of the bit having a threaded stud to with a tiny
nut.
For myself, I rate premium bits as excessive in most cases, cheap
bits are occasionaly a poor investment, while midpriced bits the best
value, generaly. In production set-ups, I would not be the least bit
surprised if better bits are more durable. But unless you are
working in a millwork situation, that isn't likely to be an issue.
By the way, you can sharpen carbide on some japanese waterstones.
Thanks for the replies everyone.
I'll stick with "You get what you pay for".
Tom
I'll stick with "You get what you pay for".
Tom
>How important is brand when it comes to router bits?As somebody else said, "ya (sometimes) get what ya paid for"
But, on the other hand, I picked up a boxed set of 18 bits at Costco yesterday, for around $50. "Mastergrip", made in China. I figure when I wear one out, its replacement will be higher quality...
Curtis
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I do use routers in boat production, usualy roundovers and bearing
trims. These are the cheapest bits around, and all give reasonable
results. So I don't care what brand they are.
Odder types are usualy profile driven. For instance I needed a
particular type of finger joint bit. I had to take the profile from
the supplier that had the size I wanted, and not worry about
quality. It wasn't a comon thing.
The best quality I have ever seen was the 1/2" Hitachi that came with
my TR 12 router. It actualy shaved hair off my forearm.
Power sanding/drywall/autobody skills are closer to what you need for
modern wood boats.
trims. These are the cheapest bits around, and all give reasonable
results. So I don't care what brand they are.
Odder types are usualy profile driven. For instance I needed a
particular type of finger joint bit. I had to take the profile from
the supplier that had the size I wanted, and not worry about
quality. It wasn't a comon thing.
The best quality I have ever seen was the 1/2" Hitachi that came with
my TR 12 router. It actualy shaved hair off my forearm.
Power sanding/drywall/autobody skills are closer to what you need for
modern wood boats.
1/14/2003 9:42:19 AM, "trund1024 <trund1024@...>" <trund1024@...> wrote:
brands. You get anything from top to bottom, and no way of knowing in advance, with bargain brands.
The Chinese can make carbide just as well as anyone else but they are quite happy to make junk if that is what the
customer is willing to accept. There are importers that have enough buying power to get quality carbide. I have had
good luck with pricecutter.com router bits.
real advantage now is the slightly better finish it produces.
Doug
>Brand preference is a difficult issue to discuss. Generally, you get consistently good tools from consistently expensive
>How important is brand when it comes to router bits?
brands. You get anything from top to bottom, and no way of knowing in advance, with bargain brands.
The Chinese can make carbide just as well as anyone else but they are quite happy to make junk if that is what the
customer is willing to accept. There are importers that have enough buying power to get quality carbide. I have had
good luck with pricecutter.com router bits.
>Carbide has dropped in price to the point where high speed steel is no longer a less expensive alternative. It's only
>I use carbide tipped, but which is the best for a back yard builder?
real advantage now is the slightly better finish it produces.
Doug
Hello Group:
I joined this group last summer and have been reading up once in a
while. I had planned to build a Gloucester Gull in the fall, but my
budget was cut due to moving to a new house. Since I have been unable
to build any boats, I've focused some time on honing my router
skills.
My question to the group is:
How important is brand when it comes to router bits?
I use carbide tipped, but which is the best for a back yard builder?
Comments welcome.
Tom Rund
p.s. I hope this isn't too far off topic.
I joined this group last summer and have been reading up once in a
while. I had planned to build a Gloucester Gull in the fall, but my
budget was cut due to moving to a new house. Since I have been unable
to build any boats, I've focused some time on honing my router
skills.
My question to the group is:
How important is brand when it comes to router bits?
I use carbide tipped, but which is the best for a back yard builder?
Comments welcome.
Tom Rund
p.s. I hope this isn't too far off topic.
I thought the same thing when I built my first S&G boat. I try to stack cut all identical panels at
the same time. Dynamite Payson says use a circular saw to cut out the panels in his books so I
decided to give a try. I use a big Model 77 Skill worm drive, and I found it easier to stay on the
line than with a very good quality jig saw. If you are building 2-3 boats at a time and stack sawing
4-6 panels, you will find that the jig saw leans on the corners and doesn't stay perpendicular, so
the panels aren't identical
HJ
"gbb132000 " wrote:
the same time. Dynamite Payson says use a circular saw to cut out the panels in his books so I
decided to give a try. I use a big Model 77 Skill worm drive, and I found it easier to stay on the
line than with a very good quality jig saw. If you are building 2-3 boats at a time and stack sawing
4-6 panels, you will find that the jig saw leans on the corners and doesn't stay perpendicular, so
the panels aren't identical
HJ
"gbb132000 " wrote:
> I prefer using a jigsaw to cut out the plywood. Just follow the
> pencil line. I can't imagine using a router OR a circular saw. But
> that is a preference - not a rule. ;o)