Re: teal
I tried for about 5 minutes to bend a 1" sticknon my Teal. Follow the
drawings.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@y...>"
<brucehallman@y...> wrote:
drawings.
Bob Chamberland
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@y...>"
<brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- "Ken Kongslie" <ken@k...> wrote:
> > would it be ok to use a single
> > 1 x 4 fir vert. grain chine instead of two
> > 1/2 x 3's?
> > ken
>
> I might not understand your question
> but my free opinion would be:
>
> Yes, but good luck getting
> it to bend. I am guessing
> that the doubled 1/2 inch
> is for the purpose of making
> the wood bend easier.
On Thursday, February 13, 2003, at 08:12 PM, Bruce Hallman
<brucehallman@...> wrote:
did them in two layers.
hal
<brucehallman@...> wrote:
> --- "Ken Kongslie" <ken@k...> wrote:When I bent the chines onto my Teal I was glad I
>> would it be ok to use a single
>> 1 x 4 fir vert. grain chine instead of two
>> 1/2 x 3's?
>> ken
>
> I might not understand your question
> but my free opinion would be:
>
> Yes, but good luck getting
> it to bend. I am guessing
> that the doubled 1/2 inch
> is for the purpose of making
> the wood bend easier.
did them in two layers.
hal
My advice is don't do it! If I remember correctly, I tried that on my
Teal, and it was very difficult, and possibly a disaster (funny, as
time passes, the horror fades). The doubling's a little harder to keep
going as you put it on, but much less wear and tear on the builder,
and waste of wood.
Mark Zeiger
Juneau, Alaska
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@y...>"
<brucehallman@y...> wrote:
Teal, and it was very difficult, and possibly a disaster (funny, as
time passes, the horror fades). The doubling's a little harder to keep
going as you put it on, but much less wear and tear on the builder,
and waste of wood.
Mark Zeiger
Juneau, Alaska
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@y...>"
<brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- "Ken Kongslie" <ken@k...> wrote:
> > would it be ok to use a single
> > 1 x 4 fir vert. grain chine instead of two
> > 1/2 x 3's?
> > ken
>
> I might not understand your question
> but my free opinion would be:
>
> Yes, but good luck getting
> it to bend. I am guessing
> that the doubled 1/2 inch
> is for the purpose of making
> the wood bend easier.
--- "Ken Kongslie" <ken@k...> wrote:
but my free opinion would be:
Yes, but good luck getting
it to bend. I am guessing
that the doubled 1/2 inch
is for the purpose of making
the wood bend easier.
> would it be ok to use a singleI might not understand your question
> 1 x 4 fir vert. grain chine instead of two
> 1/2 x 3's?
> ken
but my free opinion would be:
Yes, but good luck getting
it to bend. I am guessing
that the doubled 1/2 inch
is for the purpose of making
the wood bend easier.
would it be ok to use a single 1 x 4 fir vert. grain chine instead of two
1/2 x 3's?
ken
1/2 x 3's?
ken
On Friday, January 31, 2003, at 10:22 PM, Ken Kongslie wrote:
I think the best time to do that is before assembly.
I did the bevels on my Teal after the sides and logs were
assembled and the boast was 3D. I used a four foot 1X4
and sandpaper. Worked just fine but I am not sure I
recommend it.
hal
> Question:The sides and the chine logs must be beveled. In retrospect
> do I cut the side panels at a bevel?
> Payson book doesnt mention it, however, the section drawing on bolger's
> plans indicates a bevel. maybe unintended drafting?
> thanks
> ken
I think the best time to do that is before assembly.
I did the bevels on my Teal after the sides and logs were
assembled and the boast was 3D. I used a four foot 1X4
and sandpaper. Worked just fine but I am not sure I
recommend it.
hal
Hi Ken, saw out your panels without the bevel. There is no bevel on
the sheer. Plane lightly on the chine edge to get the correct bevel.
The chine logs are cut with the bevel. Assemble the sides to the
frames. After the chine logs are attached touch up the bevel with a
sanding board. This is a 2x4 longer than the width of the boat.
Sandpaper is attached on one end. Lay the board across the beam and sand.
Bob Chamberland
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ken Kongslie" <ken@k...> wrote:
the sheer. Plane lightly on the chine edge to get the correct bevel.
The chine logs are cut with the bevel. Assemble the sides to the
frames. After the chine logs are attached touch up the bevel with a
sanding board. This is a 2x4 longer than the width of the boat.
Sandpaper is attached on one end. Lay the board across the beam and sand.
Bob Chamberland
-- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Ken Kongslie" <ken@k...> wrote:
> Question:
> do I cut the side panels at a bevel?
> Payson book doesnt mention it, however, the section drawing on bolger's
> plans indicates a bevel. maybe unintended drafting?
> thanks
> ken
> Question:bolger's
> do I cut the side panels at a bevel?
> Payson book doesnt mention it, however, the section drawing on
> plans indicates a bevel. maybe unintended drafting?There is very little that is unintended in PCB's drafting, especially
in plans meant for sale to beginners as the Payson plans are. When I
built my Elegant Punt, which is basically the same as the Teal, I cut
the side panels without bevel, and attached the chines without bevel.
It took about an hour to plane the bevel on the chines, using a
straightedge across the bottom to guage the angle. I think that is
what was intended. Using a sharp plane is one of the pleasantest
parts of boatbuilding.
There is no point in trying to cut 1/4" ply at a bevel since it takes
a single pass with a Surform tool to bevel it. At least, that's how I
see it.
Peter
Question:
do I cut the side panels at a bevel?
Payson book doesnt mention it, however, the section drawing on bolger's
plans indicates a bevel. maybe unintended drafting?
thanks
ken
do I cut the side panels at a bevel?
Payson book doesnt mention it, however, the section drawing on bolger's
plans indicates a bevel. maybe unintended drafting?
thanks
ken