Re: Taped fiberglass but joints
I have a snap of it, if I can make an OK copy with my digital camera,
I will post it. Currently the jig is out of the way in the attic of
my shop.
I will post it. Currently the jig is out of the way in the attic of
my shop.
>make
> > Would you have a diagram or a pictures of this jig So I could
> > one of my own?
> >
>
> I'll the second this motion.
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 2/11/03 11:08:08 AM Central Standard Time,ktsrfer@...
writes:
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
writes:
> Would you have a diagram or a pictures of this jig So I could makeI'll the second this motion.
> one of my own?
>
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Would you have a diagram or a pictures of this jig So I could make
one of my own?
one of my own?
> I have a jig that is made out of a full width lumber/ply hollowcore
> panels, say 12" by 48" by 2". A bit like an offcut from a coredoor,
> though it was just anything I had around and could nock together.will
> Hanging down from the front of this is a piece of 3/8-1/2" plywood,
> accross the bottom of which is a cleat for the edge of the saw base
> to ride on. This dropped section is angled back so that the saw
> cut a perfect scarf from any piece of ply snugged up to the edge.
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Leoandsandy@J... wrote:
panels, say 12" by 48" by 2". A bit like an offcut from a core door,
though it was just anything I had around and could nock together.
Hanging down from the front of this is a piece of 3/8-1/2" plywood,
accross the bottom of which is a cleat for the edge of the saw base
to ride on. This dropped section is angled back so that the saw will
cut a perfect scarf from any piece of ply snugged up to the edge.
My unit which was mostly used to cut 1/8" ply also had a series of
holes drilled along the edge, that penetrate the core of the panel,
to which a vac could be attached to hold the feathered edge of the
ply down.
There is a simpler jig called a scarfer that WEST sells, and that can
also be made of ply. Frankly I am so delighted with the performance
of my unit, the hour it took to make is of little concequence.
This will cut up to 3/8" ply. 1/2" ply requires that a small amount
of wood be removed by other means, but ut is still about 80% cut.
> Could you explain exactly how you make your plywood scarph jointwith
> your circular saw? LeoI have a jig that is made out of a full width lumber/ply hollow core
panels, say 12" by 48" by 2". A bit like an offcut from a core door,
though it was just anything I had around and could nock together.
Hanging down from the front of this is a piece of 3/8-1/2" plywood,
accross the bottom of which is a cleat for the edge of the saw base
to ride on. This dropped section is angled back so that the saw will
cut a perfect scarf from any piece of ply snugged up to the edge.
My unit which was mostly used to cut 1/8" ply also had a series of
holes drilled along the edge, that penetrate the core of the panel,
to which a vac could be attached to hold the feathered edge of the
ply down.
There is a simpler jig called a scarfer that WEST sells, and that can
also be made of ply. Frankly I am so delighted with the performance
of my unit, the hour it took to make is of little concequence.
This will cut up to 3/8" ply. 1/2" ply requires that a small amount
of wood be removed by other means, but ut is still about 80% cut.
Could you explain exactly how you make your plywood scarph joint with
your circular saw? Leo
your circular saw? Leo
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Todd <ktsrfer@m...>" <ktsrfer@m...>
wrote:
think of a single reason to make a Payson patch joint, except: A lot
of the Bolger plans were drawn to make full use of ply lengths, so
loosing 2" of length or more was a problem begging a non-ply butt
joint solution. If you have the space, acarph. Faster, cheaper and
better results.
wrote:
> I found everything except what width of cloth to use on the jointof
> 1/4 plywood in my search. I have 6'' 8.7 oz. fiberglass tape.Would
> a three inch overlap be enough ?Yeah, I'm off topic, but if you own a hand held circular saw, I can't
>
> Todd
think of a single reason to make a Payson patch joint, except: A lot
of the Bolger plans were drawn to make full use of ply lengths, so
loosing 2" of length or more was a problem begging a non-ply butt
joint solution. If you have the space, acarph. Faster, cheaper and
better results.
I agree, 3" is overkill and un-economical both in tape and epoxy. On
1/4" inch or inch and a half is fine. But only with epoxy. I wouldn't
try it with polester resin as Payson suggests in his books.
Bruce Hector
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freeboatexchange
A site to arrange free short term boat swaps with over 30 members
from around the world now and growing.
1/4" inch or inch and a half is fine. But only with epoxy. I wouldn't
try it with polester resin as Payson suggests in his books.
Bruce Hector
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freeboatexchange
A site to arrange free short term boat swaps with over 30 members
from around the world now and growing.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Todd <ktsrfer@m...>"
<ktsrfer@m...> wrote:
Actually, 3" is more than ample for 1/4" with regard to the width of
overlap. I only used 2" overlap for 1/2" ply on Dakota (9 oz, bias
tape). More important is thickness of the fiberglass at the joint. I
would double at least the exterior tapes. To avoid a hump at the
joint, it is helpful to sand away enough of the surface layer of the
ply so the tape can be flush with the rest of the surface. If you
don't want to recess the tape, then probably the wider the better
to help you to blend the joint into the surface of the ply . Also, I
would double the exterior with two different widths of tape to help
feather the seam into the ply surface.
Vince
<ktsrfer@m...> wrote:
> I found everything except what width of cloth to use on the jointof
> 1/4 plywood in my search. I have 6'' 8.7 oz. fiberglass tape.Would
> a three inch overlap be enough ?Todd,
>
> Todd
Actually, 3" is more than ample for 1/4" with regard to the width of
overlap. I only used 2" overlap for 1/2" ply on Dakota (9 oz, bias
tape). More important is thickness of the fiberglass at the joint. I
would double at least the exterior tapes. To avoid a hump at the
joint, it is helpful to sand away enough of the surface layer of the
ply so the tape can be flush with the rest of the surface. If you
don't want to recess the tape, then probably the wider the better
to help you to blend the joint into the surface of the ply . Also, I
would double the exterior with two different widths of tape to help
feather the seam into the ply surface.
Vince
I'm not sure but I would think that's more than adequate. On my Wyoming,
I'm using 1/2" plywood and my overlap is about 1 1/2" on either side of the
joint using 3 layers staggered of 2" wide, 4 ounce tape plus a 8" butt joint
on the back side.
Jeff
I'm using 1/2" plywood and my overlap is about 1 1/2" on either side of the
joint using 3 layers staggered of 2" wide, 4 ounce tape plus a 8" butt joint
on the back side.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <ktsrfer@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 09, 2003 10:37 AM
Subject: [bolger] Taped fiberglass but joints
> I found everything except what width of cloth to use on the joint of
> 1/4 plywood in my search. I have 6'' 8.7 oz. fiberglass tape. Would
> a three inch overlap be enough ?
>
> Todd
>
>
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I found everything except what width of cloth to use on the joint of
1/4 plywood in my search. I have 6'' 8.7 oz. fiberglass tape. Would
a three inch overlap be enough ?
Todd
1/4 plywood in my search. I have 6'' 8.7 oz. fiberglass tape. Would
a three inch overlap be enough ?
Todd