Re: [bolger] Re: Non-Skid stuff
On Thursday 13 February 2003 09:28,wmrpage@...wrote:
a much neater finish.
--
Bruce Fountain (fountainb@...)
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch and Signal Pty Ltd
Perth Western Australia
tel: +618 9256 0083
> Thanks for the instructions! I don't think I will bother with masking offThere is no great work in masking off the edges, and it makes for
> areas - the deck/sole areas I'll be dealing with will all be well below the
> shear of a power boat, so aesthetics are not an issue
a much neater finish.
--
Bruce Fountain (fountainb@...)
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch and Signal Pty Ltd
Perth Western Australia
tel: +618 9256 0083
Nor would I mix again in the paint. I just doesn't make for an even
coating. It's more visual than a functional problem.
Jeff
coating. It's more visual than a functional problem.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <wmrpage@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 7:26 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] RE: Non-Skid stuff
> In a message dated 2/12/03 7:38:07 PM Central Standard Time,
glen@...
> writes:
>
> > On my Micro (Jack of Hearts, in Bolger2) I used fine sand, purchased
from
> > OSH Hardware store, mixed with my white deck paint. It's very
effective,
> > the only real problem is there were some spots that got more sand than
> > others,
>
> Hmmm! Loosemoose says he would only advise his worst enemy to mix sand
into
> the paint, but you seem to have had relatively satisfactory results. Is
the
> variation in sand quantities enough to make the surface treacherous in
that
> footing varies considerably from one area to another, or is this just an
> aesthetic issue? (in my application, the decks/soles are all underfoot and
> well below the sheer of this powerboat, so aesthetics are not a major
issue).
> Did you apply with brush or roller? Or did you spray? Do you think that
the
> variation was due to the problem of keeping the sand uniformly mixed in
the
> paint? Or was it an artifact of the application technique? What kind of
deck
> paint did you use?
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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>
>
In a message dated 2/12/03 7:38:07 PM Central Standard Time,glen@...
writes:
the paint, but you seem to have had relatively satisfactory results. Is the
variation in sand quantities enough to make the surface treacherous in that
footing varies considerably from one area to another, or is this just an
aesthetic issue? (in my application, the decks/soles are all underfoot and
well below the sheer of this powerboat, so aesthetics are not a major issue).
Did you apply with brush or roller? Or did you spray? Do you think that the
variation was due to the problem of keeping the sand uniformly mixed in the
paint? Or was it an artifact of the application technique? What kind of deck
paint did you use?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
writes:
> On my Micro (Jack of Hearts, in Bolger2) I used fine sand, purchased fromHmmm! Loosemoose says he would only advise his worst enemy to mix sand into
> OSH Hardware store, mixed with my white deck paint. It's very effective,
> the only real problem is there were some spots that got more sand than
> others,
the paint, but you seem to have had relatively satisfactory results. Is the
variation in sand quantities enough to make the surface treacherous in that
footing varies considerably from one area to another, or is this just an
aesthetic issue? (in my application, the decks/soles are all underfoot and
well below the sheer of this powerboat, so aesthetics are not a major issue).
Did you apply with brush or roller? Or did you spray? Do you think that the
variation was due to the problem of keeping the sand uniformly mixed in the
paint? Or was it an artifact of the application technique? What kind of deck
paint did you use?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 2/12/03 7:28:37 PM Central Standard Time,
pvanderw@...writes:
sand. I hadn't considered the non-sandable character of the stuff. Now I have
to think again. I HATE it when I have to try to do that! Thanks, anyway. The
virtues of a technique that gives a second chance if the first attempt
doesn't work out is always worth consideration for a bricoleur like me!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
pvanderw@...writes:
> The answer to the second question is that I found it (andHmmm. This is interesting. I was just getting persuaded of the virtues of
> two other non-skid products) here via a Google search:
>http://www.epoxyproducts.com/6_nonskid.html
>
sand. I hadn't considered the non-sandable character of the stuff. Now I have
to think again. I HATE it when I have to try to do that! Thanks, anyway. The
virtues of a technique that gives a second chance if the first attempt
doesn't work out is always worth consideration for a bricoleur like me!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Re Non skid stuff:
On my Micro (Jack of Hearts, in Bolger2) I used fine sand, purchased from OSH Hardware store, mixed with my white deck paint. It's very effective, the only real problem is there were some spots that got more sand than others, so it's a little un-even. Bigger problem is that because the sand is "sand color", when the paint wears through to the sand, it looks "dingy".
I got a sample of stuff from System3 that's clear, grainy stuff, just for non-skid, and I'd suggest you take a look at it. I haven't used it, but it looks like a good solution....
Glen
On my Micro (Jack of Hearts, in Bolger2) I used fine sand, purchased from OSH Hardware store, mixed with my white deck paint. It's very effective, the only real problem is there were some spots that got more sand than others, so it's a little un-even. Bigger problem is that because the sand is "sand color", when the paint wears through to the sand, it looks "dingy".
I got a sample of stuff from System3 that's clear, grainy stuff, just for non-skid, and I'd suggest you take a look at it. I haven't used it, but it looks like a good solution....
Glen
>Sand blasting medium ( really just graded and DRY sand) works great
>and is very easy to use. It also holds up well.
>Bob
In a message dated 2/12/03 7:11:40 PM Central Standard Time,
loosemoosefilmworks@...writes:
areas - the deck/sole areas I'll be dealing with will all be well below the
shear of a power boat, so aesthetics are not an issue. If you have a
photograph of the "moose" nonskid area, I do wish you would post it - such a
work of art deserves an audience!
Thanks again for the instructions,
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
loosemoosefilmworks@...writes:
> Well all of the above seems to work for some...though adding it TOThanks for the instructions! I don't think I will bother with masking off
> paint is something I would only advise for your worst enemy!
>
areas - the deck/sole areas I'll be dealing with will all be well below the
shear of a power boat, so aesthetics are not an issue. If you have a
photograph of the "moose" nonskid area, I do wish you would post it - such a
work of art deserves an audience!
Thanks again for the instructions,
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> I suppose the virtue of this stuff is that it would stayThat's an observation plus two questions. The observation is seconded
> more evenly dispersed in paint that heavier media.
> Do you have any experience with the stuff?
> Do you recall which paint companies still sells it?
at the link below. The answer the first question is no, but I first
heard about walnut shells when it was used on a 12-meter America's
Cup boat. The answer to the second question is that I found it (and
two other non-skid products) here via a Google search:
http://www.epoxyproducts.com/6_nonskid.html
A Google search on the phrase "ground walnut shells" turned up an
amusing variety of uses for the product.
Peter
Well all of the above seems to work for some...though adding it TO
paint is something I would only advise for your worst enemy!
What worked on Loose Moose's 1 & 2...
Glass deck and fair so you are happy with the finish then prime for
wahtever particular paint you are using.
Now wait at least three days (VERY IMPORTANT)
Now comes the fun part!
Mask the deck into patterns that make sense for your deck
layout...this can be pretty creative (Loose Moose 2 sported a non
skid Moose infront of the cockpit!) now paint the deck and when the
paint gets to a tacky stage cover the deck with a light even coat of
sand.
Next day VERY GeENTLY sweep and then vacum the excess sand off then
remove the tape.
NExt day just paint the deck and again the day after.
Thats it!
It should last for the life of the boat with only a simple paint
every three+ years for maintainence...
Bob
paint is something I would only advise for your worst enemy!
What worked on Loose Moose's 1 & 2...
Glass deck and fair so you are happy with the finish then prime for
wahtever particular paint you are using.
Now wait at least three days (VERY IMPORTANT)
Now comes the fun part!
Mask the deck into patterns that make sense for your deck
layout...this can be pretty creative (Loose Moose 2 sported a non
skid Moose infront of the cockpit!) now paint the deck and when the
paint gets to a tacky stage cover the deck with a light even coat of
sand.
Next day VERY GeENTLY sweep and then vacum the excess sand off then
remove the tape.
NExt day just paint the deck and again the day after.
Thats it!
It should last for the life of the boat with only a simple paint
every three+ years for maintainence...
Bob
In a message dated 2/12/03 8:30:24 AM Central Standard Time,
pvanderw@...writes:
dispersed in paint that heavier media, but it would be pretty readily
biodegradable and I wonder about its longevity. Do you have any experience
with the stuff? Do you recall which paint companies still sells it?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
pvanderw@...writes:
> The classic additive for nonskid on classic yachts was ground walnutI suppose the virtue of this stuff is that it would stay more evenly
> shells. One of the big paint companies still sells it by the can.
dispersed in paint that heavier media, but it would be pretty readily
biodegradable and I wonder about its longevity. Do you have any experience
with the stuff? Do you recall which paint companies still sells it?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In a message dated 2/11/03 10:16:22 PM Central Standard Time,
loosemoosefilmworks@...writes:
goop? Or sprinkle it over the epoxy? or over the paint? If sprinkling, what's
the technique? Do you just broadcast it generously and sweep off the excess?
Or does it have to be carefully and evenly sifted onto the surface - using
what? a colander? sieve? flour sifter? I'm entirely without experience and
hoping for detailed guidance from someone who knows!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
loosemoosefilmworks@...writes:
> Sand blasting medium is just about the best thing around for doing aDo you mix it into the paint? Or the epoxy? If so, how much sand to how much
> sand non skid its cheap and lasts forever!
>
goop? Or sprinkle it over the epoxy? or over the paint? If sprinkling, what's
the technique? Do you just broadcast it generously and sweep off the excess?
Or does it have to be carefully and evenly sifted onto the surface - using
what? a colander? sieve? flour sifter? I'm entirely without experience and
hoping for detailed guidance from someone who knows!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Salt and sugar went through a fad back when we were building Loose
Moose 2 and seveal boats that I know of went that route. Within a
year all of the decks in question had peeling decks.
The reason apparently is that the salt or sugar do go away leaving
voids and traffic on the decks then does the rest.
Sand blasting medium ( really just graded and DRY sand) works great
and is very easy to use. It also holds up well.
Bob
Moose 2 and seveal boats that I know of went that route. Within a
year all of the decks in question had peeling decks.
The reason apparently is that the salt or sugar do go away leaving
voids and traffic on the decks then does the rest.
Sand blasting medium ( really just graded and DRY sand) works great
and is very easy to use. It also holds up well.
Bob
In a message dated 2/11/03 11:06:57 PM Central Standard Time,
isdkelly@...writes:
sail-or surf-boards which recommended using salt or sugar in resin. This
sounds daring, but I'm not sure how one could evaluate the effectiveness
other than full-scale on the water. I'm more concerned about a "idiot-proof"
solution than the cheapest or most interesting one. I'm not sure I want to do
any more experiments - meeting my Memorial Day launch objective is going to
be difficult enough at my present rate of progress!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
isdkelly@...writes:
> Best I have heard of is from Boatbuilder or MAIB dont remember but ifDoing a google search I ran across an exchange dealing (I think) with either
> you apply the paint and then sprinkle salt on
sail-or surf-boards which recommended using salt or sugar in resin. This
sounds daring, but I'm not sure how one could evaluate the effectiveness
other than full-scale on the water. I'm more concerned about a "idiot-proof"
solution than the cheapest or most interesting one. I'm not sure I want to do
any more experiments - meeting my Memorial Day launch objective is going to
be difficult enough at my present rate of progress!
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
i just used ordinary sand sprinkled on the first coat of wet paint-
you need *much* less than you would expect, or the surface gets
way too rough - like sandpaper ;-)
hannes
you need *much* less than you would expect, or the surface gets
way too rough - like sandpaper ;-)
hannes
The classic additive for non-skid on classic yachts was ground walnut
shells. One of the big paint companies still sells it by the can. -
Peter
shells. One of the big paint companies still sells it by the can. -
Peter
Here's a link to a paint company that makes rubberized pool deck
paint, that have to be non skid.
Also, hidden way down the list is a non-skid additive sold quite
cheaply. Don't know them and have never used the products.
Might be worth a call to ask for a sample.
Visit:
http://www.recreonics.com/ramuc_pool_paints.htm
I found it with a Yahoo search on:
+rubber +"non skid" +paint
Hope it helps.
Bruce Hector
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freeboatexchange
Where I've been contacted by the Belgian owner of a 80' Luxe Motor
who'd like to swap for time onm my little Adagio, cool!
paint, that have to be non skid.
Also, hidden way down the list is a non-skid additive sold quite
cheaply. Don't know them and have never used the products.
Might be worth a call to ask for a sample.
Visit:
http://www.recreonics.com/ramuc_pool_paints.htm
I found it with a Yahoo search on:
+rubber +"non skid" +paint
Hope it helps.
Bruce Hector
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freeboatexchange
Where I've been contacted by the Belgian owner of a 80' Luxe Motor
who'd like to swap for time onm my little Adagio, cool!
The best anti skid I ever walked on was on a 45 foot Chris Craft
Aquahome houseboat. I don't know what it was, or even if was from the
factory, or applied later. It was walking on tire rubber, only white,
smooth, semi glossy, squeaky clean and nothing would slide on it.
Not sure, but I always felt it was finely milled rubber mixed into
the paint. Anyone familiar with this?
Bruce Hector
Aquahome houseboat. I don't know what it was, or even if was from the
factory, or applied later. It was walking on tire rubber, only white,
smooth, semi glossy, squeaky clean and nothing would slide on it.
Not sure, but I always felt it was finely milled rubber mixed into
the paint. Anyone familiar with this?
Bruce Hector
The sandblasting medium works well as mentioned, I assume that every body is
masking out the pattern they want, painting, sprinkling on the wet paint
sweeping up or vacuuming, then painting again.
Something new that I want to try is the ballast used in model railroading. It
makes a good antiskid and you can sand it down when the time comes to re
coat, something that is difficult with sandbasting medium.
HJ
masking out the pattern they want, painting, sprinkling on the wet paint
sweeping up or vacuuming, then painting again.
Something new that I want to try is the ballast used in model railroading. It
makes a good antiskid and you can sand it down when the time comes to re
coat, something that is difficult with sandbasting medium.
HJ
> Anyone have any experience or recommendations regarding non-skid
> additives for deck paint? I'm going to have quite an expanse of
> glassed-plywood sole/deck to cover on my current project. I've been
> thinking of using Interlux or Pettit or the like proprietary grit in
> acrylic porch and deck paint. Is this another of my not very good
> ideas?
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
Best I have heard of is from Boatbuilder or MAIB dont remember but if
you apply the paint and then sprinkle salt on to of it it will finish
with the salt in the top layer of paint. Next wash out the salt with
regular water. This leaves a multitude of small pockets. Try it and
tell us how it goes. The folks in the mag used it when varnishing
stairs of a companionway.
Ian
you apply the paint and then sprinkle salt on to of it it will finish
with the salt in the top layer of paint. Next wash out the salt with
regular water. This leaves a multitude of small pockets. Try it and
tell us how it goes. The folks in the mag used it when varnishing
stairs of a companionway.
Ian
Sand blasting medium is just about the best thing around for doing a
sand non skid its cheap and lasts forever!
sand non skid its cheap and lasts forever!
The sand available to me is dirty and damp enough to mess with the paint and
the color. By the time I cleaned and dried it, the $5.00 I spent is cheap
considering it's enough to do the entire Wyo.
It doesn't take much to cover an area the size of a 10 x 10 deck, maybe a
cup full?
Jeff
the color. By the time I cleaned and dried it, the $5.00 I spent is cheap
considering it's enough to do the entire Wyo.
It doesn't take much to cover an area the size of a 10 x 10 deck, maybe a
cup full?
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "AARON PRYOR" <thnudrstrk@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Non-Skid stuff
>
> what happened to simple but effective sand? fine grain of course.
>
> Aaron
>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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>
>
what happened to simple but effective sand? fine grain of course.
Aaron
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Aaron
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Shopping - Send Flowers for Valentine's Day
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've added the non-skid to the paint and it's really hard to get an even
coating. On the cockpit area of the Wyo, I'm going to first lay down a coat
of paint, then sprinkle on the non-skid evenly and fairly thick. When
dried, I'll sweep off the excess that didn't stick and save for later, then
add another coat on top to seal it. I think you'll get a more uniform
coverage and look. You could even cut out cardboard patterns to make it
look very proffessional.
The non-skid I used is just fine ground silica from the hardware store paint
supplies.
Jeff
coating. On the cockpit area of the Wyo, I'm going to first lay down a coat
of paint, then sprinkle on the non-skid evenly and fairly thick. When
dried, I'll sweep off the excess that didn't stick and save for later, then
add another coat on top to seal it. I think you'll get a more uniform
coverage and look. You could even cut out cardboard patterns to make it
look very proffessional.
The non-skid I used is just fine ground silica from the hardware store paint
supplies.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: <wmrpage@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, February 11, 2003 6:22 PM
Subject: [bolger] Non-Skid stuff
> Anyone have any experience or recommendations regarding non-skid
> additives for deck paint? I'm going to have quite an expanse of
> glassed-plywood sole/deck to cover on my current project. I've been
> thinking of using Interlux or Pettit or the like proprietary grit in
> acrylic porch and deck paint. Is this another of my not very good
> ideas?
>
> Ciao for Niao,
> Bill in MN
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Anyone have any experience or recommendations regarding non-skid
additives for deck paint? I'm going to have quite an expanse of
glassed-plywood sole/deck to cover on my current project. I've been
thinking of using Interlux or Pettit or the like proprietary grit in
acrylic porch and deck paint. Is this another of my not very good
ideas?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN
additives for deck paint? I'm going to have quite an expanse of
glassed-plywood sole/deck to cover on my current project. I've been
thinking of using Interlux or Pettit or the like proprietary grit in
acrylic porch and deck paint. Is this another of my not very good
ideas?
Ciao for Niao,
Bill in MN