Re: Scarf Jig Drawing
My work area is an outside slab of concrete roughly 20'x 10'. I
opted to scarf using the 6'' wide 8.7 oz cloth and epoxy.(Its what I
had) I have one side of the hull done need to do the other side but
we got rain and will for at least a few more days, couple a storms
lined up down south working there way up to us. Thanks for everyones
helpful hints, tips, and ,suggestions.
Todd
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...>
wrote:
opted to scarf using the 6'' wide 8.7 oz cloth and epoxy.(Its what I
had) I have one side of the hull done need to do the other side but
we got rain and will for at least a few more days, couple a storms
lined up down south working there way up to us. Thanks for everyones
helpful hints, tips, and ,suggestions.
Todd
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...>
wrote:
> Todd,planks
>
> The table is just a luxury--not a necessity. Simply lay a couple of
> across two saw horses (trestles, if you're British) and clamp thejig to the
> ends of the planks. Life is so-o-o much easier when you get yourwork up off
> the floor!in mind
>
> I don't know what you're building, but if you deside to scarf, keep
> that a 1:8 scarf shortens the combined length by 2" in 1/4"material, --by
> 4" in 1/2", etc. A 1:6 ratio is probably adequate for 1/4", and iseasier.
> I've done both scarfs and taped splices. Both work fine, but a wellcut
> scarf will be less likely to show a hump.perfectly flat
>
> To cut a good scarf, it is important that your material lie
> on the jig. The vacuum discussed in a previous post is one way. Youcould
> also use dabs of hot glue or twosided tape.
>
>
> Vince
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...>
wrote:
the feathered edge the most. That is what is so cool about the vac,
it holds them down really well, under where the saw is cutting. A
tiny rise in the panel converts into a curved edge, as you know, and
a tiny mismatch on ply with very fine top sheets means little
strength. I learned this when the panel I was carrying for one boat
folded up like a road map. I just bogged it back together, and
handled it gingerly, until It was assembled and glassed.
I guess this probably isn't the time to mention we vacuum bagged all
the panels for 6x8 sheets in one go. I wanted to believe there were
easier ways.
wrote:
> Also:between two
>
> If your material has a tendency to cup or curl, you can clamp it
> straight boards just far enough back from the end to avoidinterfering with
> the scarfing jig.Probably would work. The thing is that you really need to control
>
> Vince
the feathered edge the most. That is what is so cool about the vac,
it holds them down really well, under where the saw is cutting. A
tiny rise in the panel converts into a curved edge, as you know, and
a tiny mismatch on ply with very fine top sheets means little
strength. I learned this when the panel I was carrying for one boat
folded up like a road map. I just bogged it back together, and
handled it gingerly, until It was assembled and glassed.
I guess this probably isn't the time to mention we vacuum bagged all
the panels for 6x8 sheets in one go. I wanted to believe there were
easier ways.
Also:
If your material has a tendency to cup or curl, you can clamp it between two
straight boards just far enough back from the end to avoid interfering with
the scarfing jig.
Vince
If your material has a tendency to cup or curl, you can clamp it between two
straight boards just far enough back from the end to avoid interfering with
the scarfing jig.
Vince
Todd,
The table is just a luxury--not a necessity. Simply lay a couple of planks
across two saw horses (trestles, if you're British) and clamp the jig to the
ends of the planks. Life is so-o-o much easier when you get your work up off
the floor!
I don't know what you're building, but if you deside to scarf, keep in mind
that a 1:8 scarf shortens the combined length by 2" in 1/4" material, --by
4" in 1/2", etc. A 1:6 ratio is probably adequate for 1/4", and is easier.
I've done both scarfs and taped splices. Both work fine, but a well cut
scarf will be less likely to show a hump.
To cut a good scarf, it is important that your material lie perfectly flat
on the jig. The vacuum discussed in a previous post is one way. You could
also use dabs of hot glue or twosided tape.
Vince
The table is just a luxury--not a necessity. Simply lay a couple of planks
across two saw horses (trestles, if you're British) and clamp the jig to the
ends of the planks. Life is so-o-o much easier when you get your work up off
the floor!
I don't know what you're building, but if you deside to scarf, keep in mind
that a 1:8 scarf shortens the combined length by 2" in 1/4" material, --by
4" in 1/2", etc. A 1:6 ratio is probably adequate for 1/4", and is easier.
I've done both scarfs and taped splices. Both work fine, but a well cut
scarf will be less likely to show a hump.
To cut a good scarf, it is important that your material lie perfectly flat
on the jig. The vacuum discussed in a previous post is one way. You could
also use dabs of hot glue or twosided tape.
Vince
Thanks for the diagram. I see much clearer now. Only thing I work on
the floor with 4x8 sheets of ply wood. I have no room for a table to
support 4x8 sheets of ply wood.
Todd
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@y...>"
<brucehallman@y...> wrote:
the floor with 4x8 sheets of ply wood. I have no room for a table to
support 4x8 sheets of ply wood.
Todd
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@y...>"
<brucehallman@y...> wrote:
> --- <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> > > Re: Scarf Jig Drawing
> > >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Dakota/
>
> I like this scarf jig, as it relys
> on the 'Dynamite Payson' principle
> of bringing the saw to the wood
> not the wood to the saw.
--- <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
on the 'Dynamite Payson' principle
of bringing the saw to the wood
not the wood to the saw.
> > Re: Scarf Jig DrawingI like this scarf jig, as it relys
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Dakota/
on the 'Dynamite Payson' principle
of bringing the saw to the wood
not the wood to the saw.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Vince and Mary Ann Chew <vachew@v...>
wrote:
wrote:
> I drew one up on my Mac with APPLEWORKS. It's how I visualize thejig from
> the description. I posted it in the files under "Dakota". Let meknow if I
> came close.That is it Vince. Nice job. I posted a photo.
>
> Vince Chew
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Dakota/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Vince and Mary Ann Chew
<vachew@v...> wrote:
Well, I see I got one thing wrong. I should have said to measure
from the LEFT edge of the saw bottom plate to the LEFT side of
the blade. (Unless you are using one of those trim saws with the
blade on the left).
Vince
<vachew@v...> wrote:
Well, I see I got one thing wrong. I should have said to measure
from the LEFT edge of the saw bottom plate to the LEFT side of
the blade. (Unless you are using one of those trim saws with the
blade on the left).
Vince
> I drew one up on my Mac with APPLEWORKS. It's how Ivisualize the jig from
> the description. I posted it in the files under "Dakota". Let meknow if I
> came close.
>
> Vince Chew
>
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Dakota/
I drew one up on my Mac with APPLEWORKS. It's how I visualize the jig from
the description. I posted it in the files under "Dakota". Let me know if I
came close.
Vince Chew
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Dakota/
the description. I posted it in the files under "Dakota". Let me know if I
came close.
Vince Chew
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Dakota/