Re: Digest # 1400 -'Non-Skid' & Scarfing
>All jigs are based on the idea that the time to make/set-up/store the
> re: Scarping Jig
> Nice idea, but a bit complex & time consuming, I think.
jig is less than the time to cut by other means, so obviously you can
always say "hey mightn't it be faster to do it by hand". Of course
the answer under the circumstances is "no".
What I hate about jigs is how they accumulate, this one hasn't got
much use in recent years. I think like a lot of things, I wanted to
make the complex version shown here in order to see if it would
work. A simpler version of say a 2x8 run through the saw, and with
the ply nailed on edge would take less time than one scarph to make.
There are other reasons. Scarphs in some of the luan ply material
need perfect feathers, and perfect alignment to get higher strength,
because the material is brittle, and the topsheets are very thin.
This jig made that easy. You can do it with a hand plane, but it
does take a lot longer because the glueline dulls the blade, and you
need a sharp, fine set plane not to tear out the luan feathers. On
other types of wood like say 1/3,1/3,1/3 DFir, the task is easier.
Build a boat with 100 sheets of 1/8" ply, and you will warm to the
idea.
>Why not
> Your mention of having to '. . . touch-up with a plane', and '. . .
> {questioning} the angle & slope ratio . .' beggars the question:
> do the entire task with the plane? In the time to drag out and setup
> this equipment, a decent scarf {for epoxy 'gluing'} could be cutwith a
> simple Jack plane. To make things even simpler, make a 'referencecard'
> for the dimensions. All you need do is write down the thickness ofthe
> sheet goods you normally use, then 'pre-calculate' the edge set-back for
> the different ration {6:1, 8:1, 12:1} and write those down oppositethe
Believe me I can do the math, you need a dead level and firm surface
for planing, by the time that is set up over 4x8' I could have this
set up. It doesn't even begin to need to be as solid as a planing
beam should be
You only have to touch up the thicker sheets, and it requires the
removal of only the last, say 15% of wood.
A real Jack plane, has a curved blade, which ain't much of a help.
The problem with the feathers is that the practical way to plane the
edge is across grain, so one tends to tear the very fine edges. Not
a problem with 1088, you just have the problem of time.
> thickness'. For more 'finesse' a sliding t-bevel can be used tomark the
> edge as a guide, and check progress . . . or to set-up 'odd'ratios.
Marking gauge
If
> a 'MORE POWER' approach is desired . . . use a light weight BELTSANDER.
> [NOTE: I find this took MUCH more controllable and 'error tolerantthan
> a Power Plane] Not only that, I find it to be a 'multi-tasking'tool . .
> . a concept I personally like better than any 'single-use' variety!!Yuck slow and dusty, since when can one not use a circular saw for
>
something else? The jig itself takes up about the amount of space of
a table saw fence. Not negligible, but not horrible
I fully agree you don't need this jig, if your scarph production
falls into the hardly ever through to barely ever category. It will
please those who may be intimidated by scarphs, or those who need a
fast way to get them. People who want a slow way, with lots of dust,
to hardly ever make scarphs, should make other plans. ;0)
>
> Regards & Good Luck,
> Ron Magen
> Backyard Boatshop
>
>
re: 'Non-Skid'
Of course all of this is moot, the project is already complete . . .
The 'trick' with salt is good. The concept is to use something that is
easily soluble in water - I've heard sugar mentioned, as well.
What you want is something COARSE {like the 'model train ballast' that
was mentioned}. 'Table Salt' is too fine, in my opinion {and so is sand
. . }. I recommend either Kosher Salt or the 'rock salt' {*really*
course}we are now spreading on our sidewalks!! Just 'drizzle' it down on
the layer of wet paint. Wait a couple of days for the paint to really
dry, then hose & scrub the salt off. NOW {and this is the reason you
want COARSE stuff and BIG 'pockets'} apply another coat of PAINT over
the exposed surface. Thin it, or not, to your desire. This BOTH
encapsulates any remaining residue, and slightly 'rounds off' the razor
sharp edges & points. You can even apply an additional coat on top of
this one.
re: Scarping Jig
Nice idea, but a bit complex & time consuming, I think.
Your mention of having to '. . . touch-up with a plane', and '. . .
{questioning} the angle & slope ratio . .' beggars the question: Why not
do the entire task with the plane? In the time to drag out and set up
this equipment, a decent scarf {for epoxy 'gluing'} could be cut with a
simple Jack plane. To make things even simpler, make a 'reference card'
for the dimensions. All you need do is write down the thickness of the
sheet goods you normally use, then 'pre-calculate' the edge set-back for
the different ration {6:1, 8:1, 12:1} and write those down opposite the
thickness'. For more 'finesse' a sliding t-bevel can be used to mark the
edge as a guide, and check progress . . . or to set-up 'odd' ratios. If
a 'MORE POWER' approach is desired . . . use a light weight BELT SANDER.
[NOTE: I find this took MUCH more controllable and 'error tolerant than
a Power Plane] Not only that, I find it to be a 'multi-tasking' tool . .
. a concept I personally like better than any 'single-use' variety!!
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
Of course all of this is moot, the project is already complete . . .
The 'trick' with salt is good. The concept is to use something that is
easily soluble in water - I've heard sugar mentioned, as well.
What you want is something COARSE {like the 'model train ballast' that
was mentioned}. 'Table Salt' is too fine, in my opinion {and so is sand
. . }. I recommend either Kosher Salt or the 'rock salt' {*really*
course}we are now spreading on our sidewalks!! Just 'drizzle' it down on
the layer of wet paint. Wait a couple of days for the paint to really
dry, then hose & scrub the salt off. NOW {and this is the reason you
want COARSE stuff and BIG 'pockets'} apply another coat of PAINT over
the exposed surface. Thin it, or not, to your desire. This BOTH
encapsulates any remaining residue, and slightly 'rounds off' the razor
sharp edges & points. You can even apply an additional coat on top of
this one.
re: Scarping Jig
Nice idea, but a bit complex & time consuming, I think.
Your mention of having to '. . . touch-up with a plane', and '. . .
{questioning} the angle & slope ratio . .' beggars the question: Why not
do the entire task with the plane? In the time to drag out and set up
this equipment, a decent scarf {for epoxy 'gluing'} could be cut with a
simple Jack plane. To make things even simpler, make a 'reference card'
for the dimensions. All you need do is write down the thickness of the
sheet goods you normally use, then 'pre-calculate' the edge set-back for
the different ration {6:1, 8:1, 12:1} and write those down opposite the
thickness'. For more 'finesse' a sliding t-bevel can be used to mark the
edge as a guide, and check progress . . . or to set-up 'odd' ratios. If
a 'MORE POWER' approach is desired . . . use a light weight BELT SANDER.
[NOTE: I find this took MUCH more controllable and 'error tolerant than
a Power Plane] Not only that, I find it to be a 'multi-tasking' tool . .
. a concept I personally like better than any 'single-use' variety!!
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
> Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 04:56:15 -0000________________________________________________________________________
> From: "rsmboatbuilder <isdkelly@...>" <isdkelly@...>
> Subject: Re: Non-Skid stuff
> {snip}
> you apply the paint and then sprinkle salt on to it, it will finish
> with the salt in the top layer of paint. Next wash out the salt with
> regular water. This leaves a multitude of small pockets. {snip}
> Ian
>________________________________________________________________________
> Date: Wed, 12 Feb 2003 05:51:20 -0000<proaconstrictor@...>
> From: "proaconstrictor <proaconstrictor@...>"
> Subject: AScarpher photo{BIG snip of a couple of complex instructions paragraphs}
>
> From Vince's drawing and the photo I put in the Photo files, you can
> see what I am talking about.
>
> At the left edge (and to some extent right)you can see the layered
> core base. On the right, there is a black object exiting, . . .
> The presence of the plane indicates that the sheet was about 1/2"thick, and needed a few strokes to fair the top edge.
>