Re: to fiberglass or not to fiberglass?
Some Bolger skiffs have really heavy bends in their panels. I don't
think that a panel breaking during the bend is unthinkable. Once the
panels are in place, however, it takes relatively modest strenght for
them to live out a useful life. I wouldn't worry too much about the
strength of the resultant boat, particularly if it is expected to be
used only in situations you could swim out of.
My advice would continue to be to find ways to make the panel
stronger, rather than finding ways to shake the boat apart.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <brucehallman@y...>
wrote:
think that a panel breaking during the bend is unthinkable. Once the
panels are in place, however, it takes relatively modest strenght for
them to live out a useful life. I wouldn't worry too much about the
strength of the resultant boat, particularly if it is expected to be
used only in situations you could swim out of.
My advice would continue to be to find ways to make the panel
stronger, rather than finding ways to shake the boat apart.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <brucehallman@y...>
wrote:
> --- lon wells <lononriver@y...> wrote:
>
> > ...boat yard dropped a sea going yacht
> > and it cost them $10,000.00 to fix it,
>
> > > Simulate the dreaded on-water collision by
> > > dropping the boat from a height of six feet
> > > onto your driveway.
>
> Dropping a yacht is different than dropping
> a Pointy Skiff. <grin>
>
> I dropped both my Tortoise [8ft],
> and my Michalak Roar [5 ft] and the
> fact that they survived gives me
> peace of mind that they are strong.
>
> Proof testing.
>
> Last night, I dropped my Micro Navigator two
> feet while I was jacking it up on its side.
> {The piece of window trim [glued with polyurethane
> glue <g>] parted way under the stress of my come-a-long
> cable jack.} I was glad I didn't get squished, and
> the neighbor came over to check on me due to the
> loud boom, but there was not a scratch on the boat.
>
> Plus, I feel better now knowing that the side to
> bottom chine joints withstood the stress.
--- lon wells <lononriver@y...> wrote:
a Pointy Skiff. <grin>
I dropped both my Tortoise [8ft],
and my Michalak Roar [5 ft] and the
fact that they survived gives me
peace of mind that they are strong.
Proof testing.
Last night, I dropped my Micro Navigator two
feet while I was jacking it up on its side.
{The piece of window trim [glued with polyurethane
glue <g>] parted way under the stress of my come-a-long
cable jack.} I was glad I didn't get squished, and
the neighbor came over to check on me due to the
loud boom, but there was not a scratch on the boat.
Plus, I feel better now knowing that the side to
bottom chine joints withstood the stress.
> ...boat yard dropped a sea going yachtDropping a yacht is different than dropping
> and it cost them $10,000.00 to fix it,
> > Simulate the dreaded on-water collision by
> > dropping the boat from a height of six feet
> > onto your driveway.
a Pointy Skiff. <grin>
I dropped both my Tortoise [8ft],
and my Michalak Roar [5 ft] and the
fact that they survived gives me
peace of mind that they are strong.
Proof testing.
Last night, I dropped my Micro Navigator two
feet while I was jacking it up on its side.
{The piece of window trim [glued with polyurethane
glue <g>] parted way under the stress of my come-a-long
cable jack.} I was glad I didn't get squished, and
the neighbor came over to check on me due to the
loud boom, but there was not a scratch on the boat.
Plus, I feel better now knowing that the side to
bottom chine joints withstood the stress.
It should be, I built an 11 foot row boat, and put about 500 lbs in it, and I didn't use fiberglass or epoxy. Hence the reason I know about the rot factor. If you are using 1/4 in Ply, it should be ok pending on the length of the boat, width, and how many much you want it to hold. some of the other guys on this site say that epoxy and fiber is the fix all from strength to shape.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I have been in Navy sea trials and we never did any
thing like that hmmm....
Is this a new certification I have not heard about. I
was there when a boat yard dropped a sea going yacht
and it cost them $10,000.00 to fix it, but that was a
accident.
It would not be a good idea to deliberately drop your
boat.
Lon
--- Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
thing like that hmmm....
Is this a new certification I have not heard about. I
was there when a boat yard dropped a sea going yacht
and it cost them $10,000.00 to fix it, but that was a
accident.
It would not be a good idea to deliberately drop your
boat.
Lon
--- Bruce Hallman <brucehallman@...> wrote:
> --- "Randy Beach" <rbeach@b...> wrote:__________________________________________________
> > have found several cracks
>
> My advice depends upon your goal(s).
>
> If you want peace of mind that the boat
> isn't going to explode and sink when
> you need it most, give is a good shake
> down test in the safety of your back yard.
>
> Simulate the dreaded on-water collision by
> dropping the boat from a height of six feet
> onto your driveway.
>
> If it survives the bounce, you can feel safe
> that it won't explode & sink from a bump on a rock.
>
> If it breaks, it's much better to know about
> the weakness when & where it is easy to fix.
>
> I believe that if one's rowboat can't survive
> a drop off of the car roof rack, it isn't strong
> enough to risk your life upon.
>
> [I dropped my Tortoise (by mistake) off the top
> of my RV...it bounced with hardly a scratch.]
>
> If you are after longevity, spread epoxy
> [and perhaps fiberglass] all over the place.
>
>
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, more
http://taxes.yahoo.com/
--- "Randy Beach" <rbeach@b...> wrote:
If you want peace of mind that the boat
isn't going to explode and sink when
you need it most, give is a good shake
down test in the safety of your back yard.
Simulate the dreaded on-water collision by
dropping the boat from a height of six feet
onto your driveway.
If it survives the bounce, you can feel safe
that it won't explode & sink from a bump on a rock.
If it breaks, it's much better to know about
the weakness when & where it is easy to fix.
I believe that if one's rowboat can't survive
a drop off of the car roof rack, it isn't strong
enough to risk your life upon.
[I dropped my Tortoise (by mistake) off the top
of my RV...it bounced with hardly a scratch.]
If you are after longevity, spread epoxy
[and perhaps fiberglass] all over the place.
> have found several cracksMy advice depends upon your goal(s).
If you want peace of mind that the boat
isn't going to explode and sink when
you need it most, give is a good shake
down test in the safety of your back yard.
Simulate the dreaded on-water collision by
dropping the boat from a height of six feet
onto your driveway.
If it survives the bounce, you can feel safe
that it won't explode & sink from a bump on a rock.
If it breaks, it's much better to know about
the weakness when & where it is easy to fix.
I believe that if one's rowboat can't survive
a drop off of the car roof rack, it isn't strong
enough to risk your life upon.
[I dropped my Tortoise (by mistake) off the top
of my RV...it bounced with hardly a scratch.]
If you are after longevity, spread epoxy
[and perhaps fiberglass] all over the place.
Fiberglass is great for preserving the boat from rot. It will have
little impact on the structural failure you are experiencing. You
need to fix that.
1) is the failure so bad that bilateral unfairness has been
introduced?
2) if the unfairness is just local, a little pooch, then you haven't
got much of a problem, but if it has changed the left right symetry
of the panels, and particularly if the panels are just being held
down with screws, or something, at this point, then I would undo
them, make repairs, and put them back together.
3) figure out whether the pooch is a compresion failure. say around a
knot hole, or a tension failure on the outside. If possible make a
panel repair on the inside, possibly using stuff that needs to be
there anyway like stuff to suport the seats, blend it in.
4) once the inside is bombproof again, smooth the outside, and apply
glass.
5) How much of a repair do you need on the inside. well a buttblock
would repair a complet failure in the panel, so less than that should
do it.
6) The limits of glass are that is is more flexible than wood,with
the grain. Anyway if the problem is inside, and you put glass on the
outside, massive amounts of it would be required. Glass is best as a
replacemnt for the top few mils of wood fiber.
I wouldn't worry about fir in terms of big picture strength, it can
be quite good. Check the edge of the panel to see if there is a gap
in the core, running right through the panle, this can allow the
panel to collapse, but baring a big thing like that, Fir ply should
be as reliable as marine though there can be little ares than need
patching. you should plan on glassing any surface that will be
weather exposed in storage. Fur will check all over it's surface, if
only painted.
little impact on the structural failure you are experiencing. You
need to fix that.
1) is the failure so bad that bilateral unfairness has been
introduced?
2) if the unfairness is just local, a little pooch, then you haven't
got much of a problem, but if it has changed the left right symetry
of the panels, and particularly if the panels are just being held
down with screws, or something, at this point, then I would undo
them, make repairs, and put them back together.
3) figure out whether the pooch is a compresion failure. say around a
knot hole, or a tension failure on the outside. If possible make a
panel repair on the inside, possibly using stuff that needs to be
there anyway like stuff to suport the seats, blend it in.
4) once the inside is bombproof again, smooth the outside, and apply
glass.
5) How much of a repair do you need on the inside. well a buttblock
would repair a complet failure in the panel, so less than that should
do it.
6) The limits of glass are that is is more flexible than wood,with
the grain. Anyway if the problem is inside, and you put glass on the
outside, massive amounts of it would be required. Glass is best as a
replacemnt for the top few mils of wood fiber.
I wouldn't worry about fir in terms of big picture strength, it can
be quite good. Check the edge of the panel to see if there is a gap
in the core, running right through the panle, this can allow the
panel to collapse, but baring a big thing like that, Fir ply should
be as reliable as marine though there can be little ares than need
patching. you should plan on glassing any surface that will be
weather exposed in storage. Fur will check all over it's surface, if
only painted.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Will the walls be strong enough after fiberglassing the outer hull?
Randy
Will the walls be strong enough after fiberglassing the outer hull?
Randy
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, AARON PRYOR <thnudrstrk@y...> wrote:
> Go ahead and fiberglass it. One thing I have found out about wood
is that even if it is in good shape, it tends to rot faster with just
paint on it. especially at the ends of the of the ply.
>
>
> ---------------------------------
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Go ahead and fiberglass it. One thing I have found out about wood is that even if it is in good shape, it tends to rot faster with just paint on it. especially at the ends of the of the ply.
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! Tax Center - forms, calculators, tips, and more
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I am building a pointy skiff and after bending the sides to shape,
have found several cracks in the outer walls forward of the second
bulkhead. The plans don't call for any fiberglass other than taping
the seems. The cracks are not all the way through but I can feel the
indention on the inside wall. Should I go ahead and fiber glass the
outer hull or start over with Marine grade instead of ac fir?
have found several cracks in the outer walls forward of the second
bulkhead. The plans don't call for any fiberglass other than taping
the seems. The cracks are not all the way through but I can feel the
indention on the inside wall. Should I go ahead and fiber glass the
outer hull or start over with Marine grade instead of ac fir?