Re: pointy skiff
Absolutely correct -
Low cost boatbuilding and cheap ply has its hazards. If I had used
good stuff to begin with, I would not have had to do it over.
David Jost
Low cost boatbuilding and cheap ply has its hazards. If I had used
good stuff to begin with, I would not have had to do it over.
David Jost
that was my grand fathers axe.
On Wednesday, March 26, 2003, at 04:12 PM,stephensonhw@...wrote:
> No offence meant, David, but your story about the Pointy Skiff that
> needed all those panels relaced reminds me about the man who boasted
> about the wonderful axe he'd owned for thirty years, and only needed
> to replace the handle four times and the head twice.
>
> Howard
>
<image.tiff>
>
>
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> away
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Peter Page
0409 388 168
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
No offence meant, David, but your story about the Pointy Skiff that needed all those panels relaced reminds me about the man who boasted about the wonderful axe he'd owned for thirty years, and only needed to replace the handle four times and the head twice.
Howard
Howard
I built a Pointy Skiff about 15 years ago that is still going
strong. The sides were luan ply and the bottom 3/8 marine ply. I
fastened it as directed with the external chine logs loving slathered
in epoxy and fastened with ring nails.
There has been virtually no wear and tear on the bottom (I boat in
relatively sandy areas) without glass on the chines. The inside is
real easy to hose or brush out.
Repairs so far -
glass and repair luan ply sides that rotted.
repair motor board that rotted (luan ply, once again).
replace stern thwart (luan ply)
Do we see a pattern here. If I had used AC exterior for all in the
first place the rot would not have been as severe.
My diablo has also had a number of repairs including a complete
transom replacement where the stern knee rotted. I have now
completely glassed the entire stern compartment. Since I only use a
10 hp there is no problem with strength here. Between the glassed in
seats and glassed in transom it is plenty strong. I have been
thinking about adding a splash well for a little more piece of mind
when operating in the sloppy stuff. This boat really scoots!
David Jost
"between boats as the Micro has been sold to another Bolger nut"
strong. The sides were luan ply and the bottom 3/8 marine ply. I
fastened it as directed with the external chine logs loving slathered
in epoxy and fastened with ring nails.
There has been virtually no wear and tear on the bottom (I boat in
relatively sandy areas) without glass on the chines. The inside is
real easy to hose or brush out.
Repairs so far -
glass and repair luan ply sides that rotted.
repair motor board that rotted (luan ply, once again).
replace stern thwart (luan ply)
Do we see a pattern here. If I had used AC exterior for all in the
first place the rot would not have been as severe.
My diablo has also had a number of repairs including a complete
transom replacement where the stern knee rotted. I have now
completely glassed the entire stern compartment. Since I only use a
10 hp there is no problem with strength here. Between the glassed in
seats and glassed in transom it is plenty strong. I have been
thinking about adding a splash well for a little more piece of mind
when operating in the sloppy stuff. This boat really scoots!
David Jost
"between boats as the Micro has been sold to another Bolger nut"
Randy,
Are you sure it was 25 feet and not 25 yards?
For any stitch and glue boat I would fillet the inside of all seams
and glass all the seams inside and out with at least one layer of
cloth. On my Nymph I taped the inside, but not the outside of the
seams, but did sheath the entire outside of the hull with 6 oz.
cloth - it seams (no pun intended) to be holding up just fine.
Paul
Are you sure it was 25 feet and not 25 yards?
For any stitch and glue boat I would fillet the inside of all seams
and glass all the seams inside and out with at least one layer of
cloth. On my Nymph I taped the inside, but not the outside of the
seams, but did sheath the entire outside of the hull with 6 oz.
cloth - it seams (no pun intended) to be holding up just fine.
Paul
Randy,
You asked about glassing the chines and shoe. Someone who actually knows something about the Pointy Skiff will be sure to give you a proper answer, but here's something to go on with.
Twenty years ago I built a small canoe, my first attempt at stitch-and-glue. I finished the inside seams and, seeing how strong the result was, decided not to apply resin and tape to the outside of the seams. I just filled and sanded the seam, then painted the hull. All seemed OK until we picked the boat up. The seams opened up a fraction of an inch as the hull flexed slightly. Although the boat was strong enough, and probably watertight, it just didn't look right and no doubt water would have got into the edges of the ply sheets.
So I had to sand the paint off along the seams and finish the job properly.
Howard
You asked about glassing the chines and shoe. Someone who actually knows something about the Pointy Skiff will be sure to give you a proper answer, but here's something to go on with.
Twenty years ago I built a small canoe, my first attempt at stitch-and-glue. I finished the inside seams and, seeing how strong the result was, decided not to apply resin and tape to the outside of the seams. I just filled and sanded the seam, then painted the hull. All seemed OK until we picked the boat up. The seams opened up a fraction of an inch as the hull flexed slightly. Although the boat was strong enough, and probably watertight, it just didn't look right and no doubt water would have got into the edges of the ply sheets.
So I had to sand the paint off along the seams and finish the job properly.
Howard
I am at the point in construction that I am Glassing the chines and
shoes. I am not able to find any reference that tells me what should
be taped and what shouldn't. The plans only call for 25 feet of
tape. This sounds like only the chines and shoes but what about all
other seams? Do I only fillet the inside seems? Anyone that has
done this project please help.
Thanks,
Randy
shoes. I am not able to find any reference that tells me what should
be taped and what shouldn't. The plans only call for 25 feet of
tape. This sounds like only the chines and shoes but what about all
other seams? Do I only fillet the inside seems? Anyone that has
done this project please help.
Thanks,
Randy