Re:[bolger] Neophyte brick builder questions
>I've been wondering about using a sunfish rig and ruder..What do you think?I've been using a Sunfish sail on my Teal for a few years. Very nice
>
for light air. Not so good for stronger breeze. A death trap running
before a strong wind -- absolutely uncontrolable on the Teal hull. I
don't know if it's any better on the Sunfish.
Give it a whirl and see how you like it.
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
I'd think way too big for brick---just right for 14'-16' sharpie like Carnell's 200dollar skiff.
----- Original Message -----
From: Fred Klitzke
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2003 6:39 PM
Subject: Re:[bolger] Neophyte brick builder questions
I've been wondering about using a sunfish rig and ruder..What do you think?
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I've been wondering about using a sunfish rig and ruder..What do you think?
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
and rain, looks basicaly the same as the day it was launched.
Actualy I'm talking about my elegant punt, a boat I prefer, but
that's a whole other story..
> Well, other than being harder and slower to build, especially foranyone
> who has carpentry experience but not glass experience. If you stayaway
> from polyester resin, use only occasionally, and keep undershelter,
> even a quick and dirty Brick won't take much maintenance.True enough. My storage is 10 years of ground contact, loads of snow
and rain, looks basicaly the same as the day it was launched.
Actualy I'm talking about my elegant punt, a boat I prefer, but
that's a whole other story..
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "captreed2000" <captreed@a...> wrote:
was my approach.
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> > The disposability of Brick is relative to theft as I recall.about the hull twisting so much in strong winds.
>
> I recall that too. His letter to me was in response to my comment
>built on the dock alongside the boat I live on, so quick and dirty
> I agree that there are many ways to skin this cat. My boats were
was my approach.
>Sounds like appropriate technology to me!
> Reed
Well, other than being harder and slower to build, especially for anyone
who has carpentry experience but not glass experience. If you stay away
from polyester resin, use only occasionally, and keep under shelter,
even a quick and dirty Brick won't take much maintenance.
Of course I'd be tempted to have an MDO, glassed seam one, but that's a
different can of worms.
who has carpentry experience but not glass experience. If you stay away
from polyester resin, use only occasionally, and keep under shelter,
even a quick and dirty Brick won't take much maintenance.
Of course I'd be tempted to have an MDO, glassed seam one, but that's a
different can of worms.
>proaconstrictor wrote:
>
> There are a million ways to do
>it, but getting rid of the cost of the lumber and replacing it with
>wire epoxy and glass will give you all the attributes of the current
>boat and none of the disadvantages. It siginificantly increases
>cost, but will give you zerro maintenance in ten year blocks. As
>long as the ply has waterproof glue, and few voids, you can use what
>you want if you glass. Without glass the opions narrow slightly.
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "440ford" <440ford@v...> wrote:
on glass over foam.
If that clear resin was epoxy with no paint over it, how long did it
last before ultraviolet sunlight turned it yellow and brittle?
> Hello ,I dont know if this will help but....... I used to buildsurfboard for a bunch of low budget folks. Most were clear resin
on glass over foam.
If that clear resin was epoxy with no paint over it, how long did it
last before ultraviolet sunlight turned it yellow and brittle?
Good choice of boat, unless you want to go fast. You ought to be able to
take 3 friends sailing with you as the interior is enormous for such a
short boat. Very stable too.It's also quite comfortable and I'm not sure
it would be with interior framing. One person sits on each side and all
you have to do to tack is move the tiller and still sit there. With the
Bohndell sail (which I think Payson sells) it even seems to go upwind ok.
Our brick is luan, and so far it's holding up quite well except for the
polyester and glass tapes on the corners. Epoxy and glass tape might be
nice to protect exposed plywood edges, but I'm not sure you should
bother with epoxy anywhere else on the boat. You may want to check out
your luan carefully as it is not all the same. None of it seems to hold
up to boiling for too long, but some is worse than others. Maybe leave
samples in your dishwasher for a month if you have time? (I haven't
tried this.) You might consider some intermediate type of wood like some
kind of exterior or marine ply, but the nice thing about luan (and
occume, so I hear) is that it doesn't seem to check too easily (small
cracks appearing in surface ply). If you use two layers of luan for the
daggerboard, you may want to put the surface plies horizontal as I don't
think the surface plies will be thick enough to carry the increased
load, particularly if you hit something (don't ask me how I know).
Our Brick weighs something like 75lbs. Not too hard for one stubborn
person to carry, it doesn't feel heavy, just awkward. Almost fits over a
Nymph if you want two boats on one small car! If weight is not important
or you always have two people to carry it I bet 3/8" MDO would solve all
checking problems and make the Brick more abusable. I'm not sure you
could bend it over that bottom curve, though. Maybe easier to stay with
the 1/4"? There's some Canadian source for 5/16" MDO.
I have found PL Premium construction adhesive to be quite nice for Brick
repairs and for some work on other boats I put together. I didn't build
our Brick but I bet the PL (make sure you get the right type) would be
good and would make fits less critical. It comes in a caulking tube.
Make sure you get it warm enough (70F) or you will wear out your hands
squeezing. 3M 5200 is supposed to be good for this kind of thing also,
but is much more expensive.
I wouldn't make the Brick too fancy, at least in ways that use up your
time. Getting in the water ASAP is the point. Build it now if you can.
take 3 friends sailing with you as the interior is enormous for such a
short boat. Very stable too.It's also quite comfortable and I'm not sure
it would be with interior framing. One person sits on each side and all
you have to do to tack is move the tiller and still sit there. With the
Bohndell sail (which I think Payson sells) it even seems to go upwind ok.
Our brick is luan, and so far it's holding up quite well except for the
polyester and glass tapes on the corners. Epoxy and glass tape might be
nice to protect exposed plywood edges, but I'm not sure you should
bother with epoxy anywhere else on the boat. You may want to check out
your luan carefully as it is not all the same. None of it seems to hold
up to boiling for too long, but some is worse than others. Maybe leave
samples in your dishwasher for a month if you have time? (I haven't
tried this.) You might consider some intermediate type of wood like some
kind of exterior or marine ply, but the nice thing about luan (and
occume, so I hear) is that it doesn't seem to check too easily (small
cracks appearing in surface ply). If you use two layers of luan for the
daggerboard, you may want to put the surface plies horizontal as I don't
think the surface plies will be thick enough to carry the increased
load, particularly if you hit something (don't ask me how I know).
Our Brick weighs something like 75lbs. Not too hard for one stubborn
person to carry, it doesn't feel heavy, just awkward. Almost fits over a
Nymph if you want two boats on one small car! If weight is not important
or you always have two people to carry it I bet 3/8" MDO would solve all
checking problems and make the Brick more abusable. I'm not sure you
could bend it over that bottom curve, though. Maybe easier to stay with
the 1/4"? There's some Canadian source for 5/16" MDO.
I have found PL Premium construction adhesive to be quite nice for Brick
repairs and for some work on other boats I put together. I didn't build
our Brick but I bet the PL (make sure you get the right type) would be
good and would make fits less critical. It comes in a caulking tube.
Make sure you get it warm enough (70F) or you will wear out your hands
squeezing. 3M 5200 is supposed to be good for this kind of thing also,
but is much more expensive.
I wouldn't make the Brick too fancy, at least in ways that use up your
time. Getting in the water ASAP is the point. Build it now if you can.
>Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2003 12:23:36 -0500
> From: John Lehman <john@...>
>Subject: Neophyte brick builder questions
>
>I'm planning to build a brick during this summer. This will be my first
>attempt at boat building. I have the brick plans, and have some
>general questions for the group:
>
>1) If I'm planning to paint the brick (interior and exterior) is there
>any point in getting expensive ($39 per sheet) Okuma (sp?) luan, or can
>I get just as good results with cheaper varieties of luan?
>2) Do most builders fiberglass just the seam areas, or do they cover
>the whole boat?
>3) If you don't cover the whole boat with cloth/epoxy, should I cover
>the exposed wood with just epoxy?
>4) On the brick in particular, is there a logical and/or structural
>reason why the framing lumber is on the exterior rather than the interior.
>
>Thanks in advance for your advice.
>
--- "Hannes" <datenmull@g...> wrote:
rowboat Roar, by boxing in styrofoam with
cheapo luaun plywood. I taped the seams
of the luaun to the inside sides of the boat
with strips ripped from a cotton dress shirt,
and old latex housepaint. These seams
are still holding tight today.
I just painted the dry cloth, letting
the paint soak through to the plywood.
> i seem to remember you also triedTwo years ago I added floation to my
> different types of cloth - ordinary
> non-glass stuff (?). how did it work??
rowboat Roar, by boxing in styrofoam with
cheapo luaun plywood. I taped the seams
of the luaun to the inside sides of the boat
with strips ripped from a cotton dress shirt,
and old latex housepaint. These seams
are still holding tight today.
I just painted the dry cloth, letting
the paint soak through to the plywood.
"Dynamite"Payson uses polyester resins, it's cheaper!
----- Original Message -----
From: soussouchew
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 1:22 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: [acrylic paint / glass
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "440ford" <440ford@v...> wrote:
> Hello ,I dont know if this will help but....... I used to build
surfboard for a bunch of low budget folks. Most were clear resin
on glass over foam.
If that clear resin was epoxy with no paint over it, how long did it
last before ultraviolet sunlight turned it yellow and brittle?
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well, most surfboards are made with polyester resins. the ones I remember yellowed slowly after 3 or 4 years.look at any surfboard they all yellow to a point. the three I still have are brite and mostly clear, and no delamination. Also most surfboards are kept in the house or shop. I also build model airplanes, and an epoxy/glass fuselage starts yellowing in about three or four weeks.
Scott
Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: soussouchew
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Friday, April 18, 2003 1:22 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: [acrylic paint / glass
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "440ford" <440ford@v...> wrote:
> Hello ,I dont know if this will help but....... I used to build
surfboard for a bunch of low budget folks. Most were clear resin
on glass over foam.
If that clear resin was epoxy with no paint over it, how long did it
last before ultraviolet sunlight turned it yellow and brittle?
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor" <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
I agree that there are many ways to skin this cat. My boats were built on the dock alongside the boat I live on, so quick and dirty was my approach.
Reed
> The disposability of Brick is relative to theft as I recall.I recall that too. His letter to me was in response to my comment about the hull twisting so much in strong winds.
I agree that there are many ways to skin this cat. My boats were built on the dock alongside the boat I live on, so quick and dirty was my approach.
Reed
Hello ,I dont know if this will help but....... I used to build surfboard for a bunch of low budget folks. Most were clear resin on glass over foam. The boards were white when done,and we all wanted some color. I checked into profesional builders and they said to paint the foam with acrilic art paint then glassed. Well we tried it and it worked great! the color is fantastic and it wont peal or scratch.The paint didn't hurt the lamination system and and it was easier than painting after the resin was on later. My point is that this would work for homemade boats who might want some color. Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2003 8:44 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: [acrylic paint / glass
--- "Hannes" <datenmull@g...> wrote:
> i seem to remember you also tried
> different types of cloth - ordinary
> non-glass stuff (?). how did it work??
Two years ago I added floation to my
rowboat Roar, by boxing in styrofoam with
cheapo luaun plywood. I taped the seams
of the luaun to the inside sides of the boat
with strips ripped from a cotton dress shirt,
and old latex housepaint. These seams
are still holding tight today.
I just painted the dry cloth, letting
the paint soak through to the plywood.
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The disposability of Brick is relative to theft as I recall. The
idea was that if you wanted a good little boat built so roughly that
it would not be stolen, go for it. A reasonable concept when wood
was half the price it is today, and lean and hungry types covered the
harbour. If you like this boat, and feel that you will be able to
hold onto it, then I think the idea of a disposible boat is somewhat
stupid. People groove on it because it is sorta out there to have
the casual attitude and make it all work for less time and money than
the next guy, it is a sorta stuck up way of thinking in its own
right. So I say build it right, an bring it up to date, if you want
to.
The exterior lumber has always been inexplicable to me. It works,
possibly particularl when the load is right. I have routinely always
moved it inside. I am happy to build this boat with either bevels,
or enough filler to cover the mistakes. Someone mentioned it was
easier to bevel with the wood on the outside, which doesn't concern
me, but I also find it hard to picture since there is zero flair.
I would glass and epoxy everything, and possibly wire the panels
together rather than use the lumber. Another option would be to
build as described, and add a light ply plank on both sides covering
the lumber smoothing out the surface for the tape and glass, and
providing some sink proof floatation. There are a million ways to do
it, but getting rid of the cost of the lumber and replacing it with
wire epoxy and glass will give you all the attributes of the current
boat and none of the disadvantages. It siginificantly increases
cost, but will give you zerro maintenance in ten year blocks. As
long as the ply has waterproof glue, and few voids, you can use what
you want if you glass. Without glass the opions narrow slightly.
idea was that if you wanted a good little boat built so roughly that
it would not be stolen, go for it. A reasonable concept when wood
was half the price it is today, and lean and hungry types covered the
harbour. If you like this boat, and feel that you will be able to
hold onto it, then I think the idea of a disposible boat is somewhat
stupid. People groove on it because it is sorta out there to have
the casual attitude and make it all work for less time and money than
the next guy, it is a sorta stuck up way of thinking in its own
right. So I say build it right, an bring it up to date, if you want
to.
The exterior lumber has always been inexplicable to me. It works,
possibly particularl when the load is right. I have routinely always
moved it inside. I am happy to build this boat with either bevels,
or enough filler to cover the mistakes. Someone mentioned it was
easier to bevel with the wood on the outside, which doesn't concern
me, but I also find it hard to picture since there is zero flair.
I would glass and epoxy everything, and possibly wire the panels
together rather than use the lumber. Another option would be to
build as described, and add a light ply plank on both sides covering
the lumber smoothing out the surface for the tape and glass, and
providing some sink proof floatation. There are a million ways to do
it, but getting rid of the cost of the lumber and replacing it with
wire epoxy and glass will give you all the attributes of the current
boat and none of the disadvantages. It siginificantly increases
cost, but will give you zerro maintenance in ten year blocks. As
long as the ply has waterproof glue, and few voids, you can use what
you want if you glass. Without glass the opions narrow slightly.
>craig,I just cut the cloth to shape with some overlap, and spread paint,
>I remember you mentioned this some time ago and thought about
>asking how you do it - this paint dries so fast. do you prime the ply
>first?
>
>i seem to remember you also tried different types of cloth - ordinary
>non-glass stuff (?). how did it work??
>
>this seems to be an eminently sensible and bolgeresqe way to do
>it!!
and as I go along I roll the cloth into the paint. Then I go over it
again with a coat, carefully so I won't crease the cloth. When all
that dried a second (third) coat can be put on. I don't try to fill
the weave; I don't mind a textured surface.
As I recall I found it easier to get the first coat of paint on if I
sponged the surface with water first to think the paint a little.
Something like applying wallpaper. The trick is to work fast.
To help the paint saturate the glass cloth, you can add a couple
drops of dish detergent to the sponge water to break up the natural
surface tension. The water gets into the cloth and the paint follows.
I tried Tyvek ground cover cloth too. This did not work well. Much
harder to get it to stick, wound up with ripples in it, and it isn't
something I'd recommend. There is an absorbent "breathable" Tyvek
material often used for medical applications which might work better
but I have no source for it.
This works best for covering flat panels, like decks, bottom panels,
sides and hatch covers.... if you try to bend the cloth around too
many edges it's almost impossible to get it creaseless, though
someone careful might be able to manage by taping/tacking all the
cloth down, then painting.
I have a Birdwatcher nberaly out of rehab, and since the sides are
bent from flat panels, I may try this trick on the outer sides. The
sides can't really be glassed with epoxy as there's a very tenacios
white primer already in place, and the amount of sanding needed to
remove the primer so the 'poxy would stick would basically eat
through the outer skin of the lauan. (I did not build the boat; I
inherited the boat unfinished; you will probably read something about
the whole process sometime soon!)
Cheers -- COD
So. Avoid plastic cloth like nylon and tyvek, and use 2 - 4 oz glass.
Cheers -- COD
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
On the matter of external frames:
If you read what Phil has said about the Brick's baby sister Tortoise
you'll see he put the framing outside for ease of build plus ease of
cleaning. The original Tortoise had an internal daggerboard case too
instead of the slots used on Bricks/Tortoises nowdays so internal
framing would have made this harder to build
Jeffry
If you read what Phil has said about the Brick's baby sister Tortoise
you'll see he put the framing outside for ease of build plus ease of
cleaning. The original Tortoise had an internal daggerboard case too
instead of the slots used on Bricks/Tortoises nowdays so internal
framing would have made this harder to build
Jeffry
craig,
I remember you mentioned this some time ago and thought about
asking how you do it - this paint dries so fast. do you prime the ply
first?
i seem to remember you also tried different types of cloth - ordinary
non-glass stuff (?). how did it work??
this seems to be an eminently sensible and bolgeresqe way to do
it!!
hannes
I remember you mentioned this some time ago and thought about
asking how you do it - this paint dries so fast. do you prime the ply
first?
i seem to remember you also tried different types of cloth - ordinary
non-glass stuff (?). how did it work??
this seems to be an eminently sensible and bolgeresqe way to do
it!!
hannes
On 16 Apr 2003, at 16:07, craig o'donnell wrote:
>
> You can also use porch paint -- or exterior latex acrylic enamel of
> some sort) to stick fiberglass cloth to the outside (and inside) of
> the boat.
>
I've built a Brick, a Shoebox and several Tortoises. So, I'll take a shot at your questions:
If you plan to leave it in the water for years you might fiberglass the area below the water line.
I have a letter from Phil B. where he specifically calls Brick a disposable boat; meant to be built quickly, cheaply and enjoyed.
Reed
> 1) If I'm planning to paint the brick (interior and exterior) is thereFor this boat AC-X works well.
> any point in getting expensive ($39 per sheet) Okuma (sp?) luan, or can
> I get just as good results with cheaper varieties of luan?
> 2) Do most builders fiberglass just the seam areas, or do they coverThis boat was designed to be built without fiberglass on it. I used epoxy with a filler to glue the seams as I could never cut it to close enough tolerances to have tight seams with the Weldwood resorcinol glue recommended.
> the whole boat?
> 3) If you don't cover the whole boat with cloth/epoxy, should I coverPaint will protect it just fine. Unless you want it to outlast you.
> the exposed wood with just epoxy?
If you plan to leave it in the water for years you might fiberglass the area below the water line.
> 4) On the brick in particular, is there a logical and/or structuralTo put the chines on the inside you have to cut them to a lot closer tolerances to get snug fits between the chine and the sides and bottom. It's just a simpler way to build.
> reason why the framing lumber is on the exterior rather than the interior.
I have a letter from Phil B. where he specifically calls Brick a disposable boat; meant to be built quickly, cheaply and enjoyed.
Reed
>You can also use porch paint -- or exterior latex acrylic enamel of
>>3) If you don't cover the whole boat with cloth/epoxy, should I cover
>the exposed wood with just epoxy?
>
>If you are not going to put glass on it, then skip the epoxy
>entirely. Epoxy is of very little use without glass.
some sort) to stick fiberglass cloth to the outside (and inside) of
the boat.
This is analogous to the old timer's paint-and-canvas deck covering.
I have tested this idea repeatedly over the past four years and it
works fine. I used the cheapest possible $8 gray porch paint, and
also used some Ace hardware store red paint.
Glass tape & epoxy on the outside of the seams is probably a good
thing. It really does toughen up the edges.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
> From: John Lehman <john@j...>My $0.02 follows:
> >1) cheaper varieties of luan?I think that this depends on whether
you view the boat a disposable, or
do you want it to last a long time.
I believe that PCB intended the Brick
to be cheap/easy/capable and more or
less disposable.
I have a 6 year old boat made with the
$12/sheet luan, glassed one side, oil paint
on the interior. Stored outside, upside
down, and doing just fine. That okume
plywood is really nice though!
> >2) fiberglass just the seam areas,I bet the boat would float with only
nails and glue, with no glass at all!
It would last longer with more epoxy.
> >4) framing lumber is on the exteriorI think that the group consensus
is that it is safest to build
Bolger boats 'per the plans'.
Almost always, Phil Bolger
has a good reason *why*, and
changes to his plans often have
unintended consequences.
-------Original Message-------
From: John Lehman <john@...>
I get just as good results with cheaper varieties of luan?
My take is that $120 isn't that much to spend. Considering the effort even the simplest boat takes, it's probably worth it. Forget lauan, buy the occume if it's only $39/sheet. (Where are you finding it for this price, anyway?)
Depends. It's not absolutely necessary for a Brick. I wouldn't.
If you are not going to put glass on it, then skip the epoxy entirely. Epoxy is of very little use without glass.
It's easier to build that way? It also makes for a cleaner interior. But there's no reason you can't put all the framing inside if you want to.
From: John Lehman <john@...>
>any point in getting expensive ($39 per sheet) Okuma (sp?) luan, or can
>1) If I'm planning to paint the brick (interior and exterior) is there
I get just as good results with cheaper varieties of luan?
My take is that $120 isn't that much to spend. Considering the effort even the simplest boat takes, it's probably worth it. Forget lauan, buy the occume if it's only $39/sheet. (Where are you finding it for this price, anyway?)
>2) Do most builders fiberglass just the seam areas, or do they coverthe whole boat?
Depends. It's not absolutely necessary for a Brick. I wouldn't.
>3) If you don't cover the whole boat with cloth/epoxy, should I coverthe exposed wood with just epoxy?
If you are not going to put glass on it, then skip the epoxy entirely. Epoxy is of very little use without glass.
>4) On the brick in particular, is there a logical and/or structuralreason why the framing lumber is on the exterior rather than the interior.
It's easier to build that way? It also makes for a cleaner interior. But there's no reason you can't put all the framing inside if you want to.
I'm planning to build a brick during this summer. This will be my first
attempt at boat building. I have the brick plans, and have some
general questions for the group:
1) If I'm planning to paint the brick (interior and exterior) is there
any point in getting expensive ($39 per sheet) Okuma (sp?) luan, or can
I get just as good results with cheaper varieties of luan?
2) Do most builders fiberglass just the seam areas, or do they cover
the whole boat?
3) If you don't cover the whole boat with cloth/epoxy, should I cover
the exposed wood with just epoxy?
4) On the brick in particular, is there a logical and/or structural
reason why the framing lumber is on the exterior rather than the interior.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
attempt at boat building. I have the brick plans, and have some
general questions for the group:
1) If I'm planning to paint the brick (interior and exterior) is there
any point in getting expensive ($39 per sheet) Okuma (sp?) luan, or can
I get just as good results with cheaper varieties of luan?
2) Do most builders fiberglass just the seam areas, or do they cover
the whole boat?
3) If you don't cover the whole boat with cloth/epoxy, should I cover
the exposed wood with just epoxy?
4) On the brick in particular, is there a logical and/or structural
reason why the framing lumber is on the exterior rather than the interior.
Thanks in advance for your advice.