Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
I have a wooden trailer for a 26' trimaran, that my 23'tri sits on.
The plans came from John Marples.
The biggest criticism I can think of is that you do need some welded
parts anyway, so why not just get on with it. I got the parts welded
from someone else, and I don't really know if I saved any money over
going to a cradle shop.
The big advantage was having the stuff in the same shop I was
building in, and being able to bring the cradles and other
measurements together at my leisure. It is actualy quite difficult
to get all the spatial aspects of mounting three hulls and spars on a
trailer, and the idea that you can sketch it on the back of an
evelope, and hand it to a local welder isnt very realistic. But with
simple, let alone flat bottomed boats, well...
The main reason I haven't taken up welding yet, is the cost of the
gear, If I lived in US, I could probably surmount that a little more
easily. Also, as a result of a traumatic accident 5 years ago, I
prefer not to have to tick off the welder box, and be eliminated
under certain circumsatances from MRIs, not that there is much worry
there given the time of reasonable access.
John sold me the plans for the trailer, but when I recently talked to
him, he seemed down on the whole trailering thing mentioning a lot of
regulatory hurdles that weren't there in the 80s.
The plans came from John Marples.
The biggest criticism I can think of is that you do need some welded
parts anyway, so why not just get on with it. I got the parts welded
from someone else, and I don't really know if I saved any money over
going to a cradle shop.
The big advantage was having the stuff in the same shop I was
building in, and being able to bring the cradles and other
measurements together at my leisure. It is actualy quite difficult
to get all the spatial aspects of mounting three hulls and spars on a
trailer, and the idea that you can sketch it on the back of an
evelope, and hand it to a local welder isnt very realistic. But with
simple, let alone flat bottomed boats, well...
The main reason I haven't taken up welding yet, is the cost of the
gear, If I lived in US, I could probably surmount that a little more
easily. Also, as a result of a traumatic accident 5 years ago, I
prefer not to have to tick off the welder box, and be eliminated
under certain circumsatances from MRIs, not that there is much worry
there given the time of reasonable access.
John sold me the plans for the trailer, but when I recently talked to
him, he seemed down on the whole trailering thing mentioning a lot of
regulatory hurdles that weren't there in the 80s.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "garthab" <garth@b...> wrote:
>For all the same reasons wooden boats are bad.
> > This has been talked about several times.
> >
> > Consensus: Wooden Trailers BAD. For lots of reasons.
>
>
> Hi Richard --
>
> Sorry if I'm recovering old ground here, but why are they so bad?
>
> All best,
> Garth
Well, the cost of living here in Tim-Buck-Two must be the difference!
----- Original Message -----
From: "Harry James" <welshman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
>
>
> I have always thought that Northen Hydraulics prices were pretty good. I
used
> to buy all my hydraulic stuff from them when I was fishing commercially
> because the prices were so much better than through the fishing suppliers
in
> Seattle. It seemed to me that the trailer parts were very reasonable, If
you
> know of a cheaper mail order place I would be eager to check them out.
>
> Glen L trailer parts are high all right, if I misunderstood your meaning.
>
> HJ
>
>
> > Buy the book, but don't buy the parts there.
> >
> > My local trailer shop, "Crazy Jakes trailer parts", had replacement
> > springs, and a replacement hub, for my trailer at 1/2 the price of
> > Northern. With no shipping. I'm sure you have something similar.
> >
> > Incidently, I had a heck of a time getting a hub for my small wheel
trailer
> > one time.
> >
> > Use full size wheels like 90 percent of the other trailers on the road,
and
> > parts will be cheaper and easier to come by.
> >
> > Also, don't forget you can have your boat hang over the back of the
trailer
> > quite a bit. Since it's not a power boat with 500lb of engine hanging
out
> >
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
I have always thought that Northen Hydraulics prices were pretty good. I used
to buy all my hydraulic stuff from them when I was fishing commercially
because the prices were so much better than through the fishing suppliers in
Seattle. It seemed to me that the trailer parts were very reasonable, If you
know of a cheaper mail order place I would be eager to check them out.
Glen L trailer parts are high all right, if I misunderstood your meaning.
HJ
to buy all my hydraulic stuff from them when I was fishing commercially
because the prices were so much better than through the fishing suppliers in
Seattle. It seemed to me that the trailer parts were very reasonable, If you
know of a cheaper mail order place I would be eager to check them out.
Glen L trailer parts are high all right, if I misunderstood your meaning.
HJ
> Buy the book, but don't buy the parts there.
>
> My local trailer shop, "Crazy Jakes trailer parts", had replacement
> springs, and a replacement hub, for my trailer at 1/2 the price of
> Northern. With no shipping. I'm sure you have something similar.
>
> Incidently, I had a heck of a time getting a hub for my small wheel trailer
> one time.
>
> Use full size wheels like 90 percent of the other trailers on the road, and
> parts will be cheaper and easier to come by.
>
> Also, don't forget you can have your boat hang over the back of the trailer
> quite a bit. Since it's not a power boat with 500lb of engine hanging out
>
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Hallman" <brucehallman@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2003 10:30 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
>
> I know very little about welding, but the
> good welders, and welded joint designers,
> know how to make welded joints that yield
> in bending before they crack.
>
I don't claim to be "good" welder, but you anneal the weld to make it less brittle. Same as with bandsaw blade welds. Heat it till
it just barely glowes red, and allow to cool slowly.
---"Richard Spelling" wrote:
of a few classes twenty years ago <grin>
so I am *way* beyond rusty, but I do
remember a little.
There are several different ways
things can break, and the real
challange is predicting which
way a wooden boat trailer would
break.
In simple bending, I figure
that a 3x2 steel tube is about
the same as a 4x6 wood beam.
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/kipfeetmore.gif
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/kipfeet.gif
...shows allowable bending moment calcs
for 2x4, 4x4, 4x6 wood and 3" steel channel
and 3x2 tube steel.
M=F*S
Bending Moment = Allowable Bending Stress * Section Modulus
Kip Feet = Kip per Square Inch * Inches^3
A Kip is a 1,000 lbs
Still, I don't guess that bending moment strength
is the first thing that would fail with boat trailer.
My guess is that the joint connections would
fail, in other words, the nails and bolts
would pull out of the relatively brittle
wood joints. 'Normal' A36 steel is elastic and
the welded joints would yield and be more
forgiving under the dynamic stresses of a
moving boat trailer.
I know very little about welding, but the
good welders, and welded joint designers,
know how to make welded joints that yield
in bending before they crack.
I guess that the elasticity of steel is what
makes steel so desireable for boat trailers.
Phil Bolger has written that he does *not*
design trailers. He probably has a good
reason why not!
Another material with good elasticity, I recall,
is bamboo lashed together with rope! That is
a boat trailer I would like to see <big grin>!!!
> Someone with the links handy canMy engineering eduction consisted
> tell us the wooden beam size equivelent
> to a 2x3 steel box beam.
of a few classes twenty years ago <grin>
so I am *way* beyond rusty, but I do
remember a little.
There are several different ways
things can break, and the real
challange is predicting which
way a wooden boat trailer would
break.
In simple bending, I figure
that a 3x2 steel tube is about
the same as a 4x6 wood beam.
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/kipfeetmore.gif
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/kipfeet.gif
...shows allowable bending moment calcs
for 2x4, 4x4, 4x6 wood and 3" steel channel
and 3x2 tube steel.
M=F*S
Bending Moment = Allowable Bending Stress * Section Modulus
Kip Feet = Kip per Square Inch * Inches^3
A Kip is a 1,000 lbs
Still, I don't guess that bending moment strength
is the first thing that would fail with boat trailer.
My guess is that the joint connections would
fail, in other words, the nails and bolts
would pull out of the relatively brittle
wood joints. 'Normal' A36 steel is elastic and
the welded joints would yield and be more
forgiving under the dynamic stresses of a
moving boat trailer.
I know very little about welding, but the
good welders, and welded joint designers,
know how to make welded joints that yield
in bending before they crack.
I guess that the elasticity of steel is what
makes steel so desireable for boat trailers.
Phil Bolger has written that he does *not*
design trailers. He probably has a good
reason why not!
Another material with good elasticity, I recall,
is bamboo lashed together with rope! That is
a boat trailer I would like to see <big grin>!!!
Some boat trailers are just bolted together. I believe some Easy Riders
are. You could copy the design of one in the parking lot at the launch
ramp.
Another trailer parts supplier is www.championtrailers.com , who I got some
trailer parts from when rebuilding a trailer for a 30' trimaran. The prices
seemed ok. The service was good.
I bought this rusty alumaweld trailer that was designed for a 19' power boat
for $150 and replaced the front end to get the wheels back far enough for
the 30' tri. Total cost, mostly new brake system, was $500. I traiilered
the boat about 4,000 miles on it, no problems.
http://multihullboatbuilder.com/workshop/Trifle/Trifle102.html
Gary
Port Angeles, WA
are. You could copy the design of one in the parking lot at the launch
ramp.
Another trailer parts supplier is www.championtrailers.com , who I got some
trailer parts from when rebuilding a trailer for a 30' trimaran. The prices
seemed ok. The service was good.
I bought this rusty alumaweld trailer that was designed for a 19' power boat
for $150 and replaced the front end to get the wheels back far enough for
the 30' tri. Total cost, mostly new brake system, was $500. I traiilered
the boat about 4,000 miles on it, no problems.
http://multihullboatbuilder.com/workshop/Trifle/Trifle102.html
Gary
Port Angeles, WA
----- Original Message -----
From: "garthab" <garth@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 10:44 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
> Thanks for the advice, Richard and Jeff. Sounds like a used metal
> trailer is the way to go. I'm hoping to build a 31' trailerable
> sailboat in the coming year (more on this soon -- new commission from
> Jim Michalak in the works), and was just at the wool-gathering phase
> of acquiring a trailer for it somehow. Finding a used one the right
> size for such a big boat will be tough -- so I may look into welding
> up one of my own, or getting someone local to do it for me. (I do
> keep meaning to learn to weld -- this may be the occassion, finally.)
>
> All best,
> Garth
Yes, Northern is pricey but believe it or not, there is no shop in my area
that carries retail trailer parts or will sell them otherwise. Northern is
the last stop to buy from but it does have what you need.
Jeff
that carries retail trailer parts or will sell them otherwise. Northern is
the last stop to buy from but it does have what you need.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 12:25 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
> Buy the book, but don't buy the parts there.
>
> My local trailer shop, "Crazy Jakes trailer parts", had replacement
springs, and a replacement hub, for my trailer at 1/2 the price
> of Northern. With no shipping. I'm sure you have something similar.
>
> Incidently, I had a heck of a time getting a hub for my small wheel
trailer one time.
>
> Use full size wheels like 90 percent of the other trailers on the road,
and parts will be cheaper and easier to come by.
>
> Also, don't forget you can have your boat hang over the back of the
trailer quite a bit. Since it's not a power boat with 500lb of
> engine hanging out there. You don't need a trailer for a 31 ft boat.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 12:51 PM
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
>
>
> > Buy the boat trailer book form Glen-L. It'll tell you all you need to
know.
> >
> > Get a catalog from Northern Tools ( www.northerntool.com ) which had all
the
> > trailer supplies you'll need including axles and kits.
> >
> > Jeff
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "garthab" <garth@...>
> > To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> > Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 11:44 AM
> > Subject: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
> >
> >
> > > Thanks for the advice, Richard and Jeff. Sounds like a used metal
> > > trailer is the way to go. I'm hoping to build a 31' trailerable
> > > sailboat in the coming year (more on this soon -- new commission from
> > > Jim Michalak in the works), and was just at the wool-gathering phase
> > > of acquiring a trailer for it somehow. Finding a used one the right
> > > size for such a big boat will be tough -- so I may look into welding
> > > up one of my own, or getting someone local to do it for me. (I do
> > > keep meaning to learn to weld -- this may be the occassion, finally.)
> > >
> > > All best,
> > > Garth
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Bolger rules!!!
> > > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> > > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip>
away
> > > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > >
> > > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Buy the book, but don't buy the parts there.
My local trailer shop, "Crazy Jakes trailer parts", had replacement springs, and a replacement hub, for my trailer at 1/2 the price
of Northern. With no shipping. I'm sure you have something similar.
Incidently, I had a heck of a time getting a hub for my small wheel trailer one time.
Use full size wheels like 90 percent of the other trailers on the road, and parts will be cheaper and easier to come by.
Also, don't forget you can have your boat hang over the back of the trailer quite a bit. Since it's not a power boat with 500lb of
engine hanging out there. You don't need a trailer for a 31 ft boat.
My local trailer shop, "Crazy Jakes trailer parts", had replacement springs, and a replacement hub, for my trailer at 1/2 the price
of Northern. With no shipping. I'm sure you have something similar.
Incidently, I had a heck of a time getting a hub for my small wheel trailer one time.
Use full size wheels like 90 percent of the other trailers on the road, and parts will be cheaper and easier to come by.
Also, don't forget you can have your boat hang over the back of the trailer quite a bit. Since it's not a power boat with 500lb of
engine hanging out there. You don't need a trailer for a 31 ft boat.
----- Original Message -----
From: "jeff" <boatbuilding@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 12:51 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
> Buy the boat trailer book form Glen-L. It'll tell you all you need to know.
>
> Get a catalog from Northern Tools ( www.northerntool.com ) which had all the
> trailer supplies you'll need including axles and kits.
>
> Jeff
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "garthab" <garth@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 11:44 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
>
>
> > Thanks for the advice, Richard and Jeff. Sounds like a used metal
> > trailer is the way to go. I'm hoping to build a 31' trailerable
> > sailboat in the coming year (more on this soon -- new commission from
> > Jim Michalak in the works), and was just at the wool-gathering phase
> > of acquiring a trailer for it somehow. Finding a used one the right
> > size for such a big boat will be tough -- so I may look into welding
> > up one of my own, or getting someone local to do it for me. (I do
> > keep meaning to learn to weld -- this may be the occassion, finally.)
> >
> > All best,
> > Garth
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
(I do keep meaning to learn to weld -- this may be the occassion, finally.)
The more I hear, the more it sounds like there's no good reason not
to learn to weld. Used professional equipment holds its value
reasonably well, so it can easily be disposed of when you don't want
it anymore. Steel is so cheap people will pay you to haul it away. A
couple more episodes of Junkyard Wars and it's a done deal!
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
The more I hear, the more it sounds like there's no good reason not
to learn to weld. Used professional equipment holds its value
reasonably well, so it can easily be disposed of when you don't want
it anymore. Steel is so cheap people will pay you to haul it away. A
couple more episodes of Junkyard Wars and it's a done deal!
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Buy the boat trailer book form Glen-L. It'll tell you all you need to know.
Get a catalog from Northern Tools ( www.northerntool.com ) which had all the
trailer supplies you'll need including axles and kits.
Jeff
Get a catalog from Northern Tools ( www.northerntool.com ) which had all the
trailer supplies you'll need including axles and kits.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "garthab" <garth@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 11:44 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
> Thanks for the advice, Richard and Jeff. Sounds like a used metal
> trailer is the way to go. I'm hoping to build a 31' trailerable
> sailboat in the coming year (more on this soon -- new commission from
> Jim Michalak in the works), and was just at the wool-gathering phase
> of acquiring a trailer for it somehow. Finding a used one the right
> size for such a big boat will be tough -- so I may look into welding
> up one of my own, or getting someone local to do it for me. (I do
> keep meaning to learn to weld -- this may be the occassion, finally.)
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Thanks for the advice, Richard and Jeff. Sounds like a used metal
trailer is the way to go. I'm hoping to build a 31' trailerable
sailboat in the coming year (more on this soon -- new commission from
Jim Michalak in the works), and was just at the wool-gathering phase
of acquiring a trailer for it somehow. Finding a used one the right
size for such a big boat will be tough -- so I may look into welding
up one of my own, or getting someone local to do it for me. (I do
keep meaning to learn to weld -- this may be the occassion, finally.)
All best,
Garth
trailer is the way to go. I'm hoping to build a 31' trailerable
sailboat in the coming year (more on this soon -- new commission from
Jim Michalak in the works), and was just at the wool-gathering phase
of acquiring a trailer for it somehow. Finding a used one the right
size for such a big boat will be tough -- so I may look into welding
up one of my own, or getting someone local to do it for me. (I do
keep meaning to learn to weld -- this may be the occassion, finally.)
All best,
Garth
I have a book from Glen-L on building trailers and they have a section on
showing them from laminated wood. You really only use wood for the frame
rails, everything else is weld up from steel such as the tongue, axle,
suspension, etc. Good lumber, glue, bolts, etc. would cost more than the
steel.
Wood trailers tend to float so you just can't float up on to the trailer.
You could add weight but why pull the extra weight?
Wood frames will flex and twist around absorbing the loads better than
steel. The biggest problem I can see is the flexing will cause the bunk to
rub the hull constantly and on a wood/epoxy boat it'll eventually wear
through. If you strap it down tight enough not to flex, then your stressing
the hull.
Welding the steel frame would be faster by far than laminating the wood
beams.I've built 3 boat trailers, one will take 10,000 lbs. and it only took
me two weekends. The smallest took 4 hours plus painting.
But, if you have an existing trailer and it's not long enough or you need to
adapt it to the boat, I'd use wood, it'll do the job just fine.
Jeff
showing them from laminated wood. You really only use wood for the frame
rails, everything else is weld up from steel such as the tongue, axle,
suspension, etc. Good lumber, glue, bolts, etc. would cost more than the
steel.
Wood trailers tend to float so you just can't float up on to the trailer.
You could add weight but why pull the extra weight?
Wood frames will flex and twist around absorbing the loads better than
steel. The biggest problem I can see is the flexing will cause the bunk to
rub the hull constantly and on a wood/epoxy boat it'll eventually wear
through. If you strap it down tight enough not to flex, then your stressing
the hull.
Welding the steel frame would be faster by far than laminating the wood
beams.I've built 3 boat trailers, one will take 10,000 lbs. and it only took
me two weekends. The smallest took 4 hours plus painting.
But, if you have an existing trailer and it's not long enough or you need to
adapt it to the boat, I'd use wood, it'll do the job just fine.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 9:14 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
> Hitting a big bump at 70 mph with a 2000lb boat&trailer generates
tremendous loads. I've broken steel springs, as I'm sure others
> here have as well.
>
> There is a reason trailer frames are made out of 2x3 steel channel or box.
The equivelent woodend beam would be HUGE.
>
> Someone with the links handy can tell us the wooden beam size equivelent
to a 2x3 steel box beam.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "garthab" <garth@...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 10:00 AM
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
>
>
> >
> > > This has been talked about several times.
> > >
> > > Consensus: Wooden Trailers BAD. For lots of reasons.
> >
> >
> > Hi Richard --
> >
> > Sorry if I'm recovering old ground here, but why are they so bad?
> >
> > All best,
> > Garth
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hitting a big bump at 70 mph with a 2000lb boat&trailer generates tremendous loads. I've broken steel springs, as I'm sure others
here have as well.
There is a reason trailer frames are made out of 2x3 steel channel or box. The equivelent woodend beam would be HUGE.
Someone with the links handy can tell us the wooden beam size equivelent to a 2x3 steel box beam.
here have as well.
There is a reason trailer frames are made out of 2x3 steel channel or box. The equivelent woodend beam would be HUGE.
Someone with the links handy can tell us the wooden beam size equivelent to a 2x3 steel box beam.
----- Original Message -----
From: "garthab" <garth@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 10:00 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Homebuilt trailer plans
>
> > This has been talked about several times.
> >
> > Consensus: Wooden Trailers BAD. For lots of reasons.
>
>
> Hi Richard --
>
> Sorry if I'm recovering old ground here, but why are they so bad?
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
> This has been talked about several times.Hi Richard --
>
> Consensus: Wooden Trailers BAD. For lots of reasons.
Sorry if I'm recovering old ground here, but why are they so bad?
All best,
Garth
This has been talked about several times.
Consensus: Wooden Trailers BAD. For lots of reasons.
Get a used trailer close to what you need.
Buy (or borrow) a little wire feed welder.
Teach yourself to weld (not that hard for a boat builder)
Cut your steel with an abrasive blade in a skill saw.
Modify your trailer.
Consensus: Wooden Trailers BAD. For lots of reasons.
Get a used trailer close to what you need.
Buy (or borrow) a little wire feed welder.
Teach yourself to weld (not that hard for a boat builder)
Cut your steel with an abrasive blade in a skill saw.
Modify your trailer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "garthab" <garth@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 9:02 AM
Subject: [bolger] Homebuilt trailer plans
> I recall that in the way-back days -- maybe a year or two ago --
> there were some posts about a set of boat trailer plans that were
> built primarily with lumber -- 4X4s and 2X8s, etc. I've searched the
> Bolger archives and Googled around the web without luck. Does anyone
> remember what site that is?
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I heard that too, still it shouldn't be too difficult to bolt on some
weights at the aft end.
Bruce Hector
weights at the aft end.
Bruce Hector
Stevenson Project (Weekender) advertised a wooden trailer at one time.
Paul W. Esterle
Capt'n Pauley Video Productions
S/V Bryn Awel, Columbia 10.7
Bristol, Tenn. USA
http://www.captnpauley.bigstep.com
Paul W. Esterle
Capt'n Pauley Video Productions
S/V Bryn Awel, Columbia 10.7
Bristol, Tenn. USA
http://www.captnpauley.bigstep.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "garthab" <garth@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2003 10:02 AM
Subject: [bolger] Homebuilt trailer plans
> I recall that in the way-back days -- maybe a year or two ago --
> there were some posts about a set of boat trailer plans that were
> built primarily with lumber -- 4X4s and 2X8s, etc. I've searched the
> Bolger archives and Googled around the web without luck. Does anyone
> remember what site that is?
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
glen l has some:
http://www.glen-l.com
listed under the boat plans.
I remember reading somewhere that they float, which
could make for interesting re-loading of boats ;-)
Bill
--- garthab <garth@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
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http://www.glen-l.com
listed under the boat plans.
I remember reading somewhere that they float, which
could make for interesting re-loading of boats ;-)
Bill
--- garthab <garth@...> wrote:
> I recall that in the way-back days -- maybe a year__________________________________________________
> or two ago --
> there were some posts about a set of boat trailer
> plans that were
> built primarily with lumber -- 4X4s and 2X8s, etc.
> I've searched the
> Bolger archives and Googled around the web without
> luck. Does anyone
> remember what site that is?
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
> ------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or
> flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed,
> thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts
> and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box
> 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:
>bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
I recall that in the way-back days -- maybe a year or two ago --
there were some posts about a set of boat trailer plans that were
built primarily with lumber -- 4X4s and 2X8s, etc. I've searched the
Bolger archives and Googled around the web without luck. Does anyone
remember what site that is?
All best,
Garth
there were some posts about a set of boat trailer plans that were
built primarily with lumber -- 4X4s and 2X8s, etc. I've searched the
Bolger archives and Googled around the web without luck. Does anyone
remember what site that is?
All best,
Garth