Re: rubrails [now cattle]
Well now that my secret is out, I'll admit our beef for bar-b-ques is
"aquired" using the Microtrawler. The open aft cockpit sure makes for
a nice transport corral. If you go to the photo section, under
"Cattle", are a couple photos from the pilothouse of Reddy on a cattle
'scouting' mission.
(Said photos will be deleted shortly, before the local Sheriff's
Cattle Patrol gets wind of them, so look while you can.)
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/lst
Rick
Possibly wanted for questioning in four states regarding a mini-tug
based cattle "aquisition" ring.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
"aquired" using the Microtrawler. The open aft cockpit sure makes for
a nice transport corral. If you go to the photo section, under
"Cattle", are a couple photos from the pilothouse of Reddy on a cattle
'scouting' mission.
(Said photos will be deleted shortly, before the local Sheriff's
Cattle Patrol gets wind of them, so look while you can.)
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/lst
Rick
Possibly wanted for questioning in four states regarding a mini-tug
based cattle "aquisition" ring.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
> HSOB!!! Spoken like a true wrangler!! Almost passed my coffeethrough
> my nose with that one Rick.......thanks!!For
>
> Peter Lenihan,whose closest encounter with a herd was in the meat
> section of his local grocery store........
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
> >
> > Cattle rustling tugs require old tractor tires for fenders.....
> somewant
> > odd reason tractor tires don't spook the herd like those white
> vinyl
> > fenders, maybe it's the sausage shape, and you certainly don't
> a
> > cattle stampede on a tug.......
> >
> > Rick,
> > Owner/operator of a rubrailess, fenderless, non-cattle rustling
> mini
> > trawler-tug....
> >
HSOB!!! Spoken like a true wrangler!! Almost passed my coffee through
my nose with that one Rick.......thanks!!
Peter Lenihan,whose closest encounter with a herd was in the meat
section of his local grocery store........
my nose with that one Rick.......thanks!!
Peter Lenihan,whose closest encounter with a herd was in the meat
section of his local grocery store........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
>
> Cattle rustling tugs require old tractor tires for fenders..... For
some
> odd reason tractor tires don't spook the herd like those white
vinyl
> fenders, maybe it's the sausage shape, and you certainly don't want
a
> cattle stampede on a tug.......
>
> Rick,
> Owner/operator of a rubrailess, fenderless, non-cattle rustling
mini
> trawler-tug....
>
To be really practical against a variety of docks, hard rubrails need to
be a series vertical strakes. A horizontal rubrail will catch the dock
edge when the hull is lifting or falling from wakes/waves destroying
itself in short order. For style and to reduce spray they can be slanted.
Cattle rustling tugs require old tractor tires for fenders..... For some
odd reason tractor tires don't spook the herd like those white vinyl
fenders, maybe it's the sausage shape, and you certainly don't want a
cattle stampede on a tug.......
Rick,
Owner/operator of a rubrailess, fenderless, non-cattle rustling mini
trawler-tug....
be a series vertical strakes. A horizontal rubrail will catch the dock
edge when the hull is lifting or falling from wakes/waves destroying
itself in short order. For style and to reduce spray they can be slanted.
Cattle rustling tugs require old tractor tires for fenders..... For some
odd reason tractor tires don't spook the herd like those white vinyl
fenders, maybe it's the sausage shape, and you certainly don't want a
cattle stampede on a tug.......
Rick,
Owner/operator of a rubrailess, fenderless, non-cattle rustling mini
trawler-tug....
> The hard rub rail[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> will give no such pleasure! Just a bone jarring thud as both rub rail
> and quay slowly destroy themselves.
> Then again,perhaps you have another use scenario in mind,like a
> cattle rustling little tug for your growing fleet?
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan
>
>
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
> wrote:
>
> > I'm also toying with the idea of adding a second rub rail closer to
> > the water line, with an intermediate curve for extra protection at
> > dock height, any comments?
> >
> > Bruce Hector
> > See the two new Bolger boats added to the exchangeable boat list at
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freeboatexchange/
> > A "Martha Jane" in Sacaramento, California and an "AS 29" in
> southern
> > Australia! Superb oportunity to try before you build!
>
>
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Bruce,
After using my Micro for 10 glorious seasons I cannot imagine
the need to add another rub rail. Regular boat fenders( which can
sometimes be scrounged/found floating for"free" on busy bodies of
water) worked just fine going through small pleasure craft locks all
the way up to the huge St.Lawrence Seaway locks.Hitting something
will usually be from dead ahead or right on the keel from bellow.Tied
up to a marina quay,with some rockin' an' a rollin' going on all
night,was made all that much more enjoyable by the fenders ability to
gently "bounce" the boat off the edge of the quay.The hard rub rail
will give no such pleasure! Just a bone jarring thud as both rub rail
and quay slowly destroy themselves.
Then again,perhaps you have another use scenario in mind,like a
cattle rustling little tug for your growing fleet?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
After using my Micro for 10 glorious seasons I cannot imagine
the need to add another rub rail. Regular boat fenders( which can
sometimes be scrounged/found floating for"free" on busy bodies of
water) worked just fine going through small pleasure craft locks all
the way up to the huge St.Lawrence Seaway locks.Hitting something
will usually be from dead ahead or right on the keel from bellow.Tied
up to a marina quay,with some rockin' an' a rollin' going on all
night,was made all that much more enjoyable by the fenders ability to
gently "bounce" the boat off the edge of the quay.The hard rub rail
will give no such pleasure! Just a bone jarring thud as both rub rail
and quay slowly destroy themselves.
Then again,perhaps you have another use scenario in mind,like a
cattle rustling little tug for your growing fleet?
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
> I'm also toying with the idea of adding a second rub rail closer tosouthern
> the water line, with an intermediate curve for extra protection at
> dock height, any comments?
>
> Bruce Hector
> See the two new Bolger boats added to the exchangeable boat list at
>http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freeboatexchange/
> A "Martha Jane" in Sacaramento, California and an "AS 29" in
> Australia! Superb oportunity to try before you build!
--- Bruce Hector wrote:
my mind, but I haven't done
it yet, because I don't know
where the exact 'dock height'
falls on my Micro Navigator.
I see the 1/4" plywood sides
as a bit thin, and subject to
getting mashed by bumping against
a dock float.
I also added interior "fillets"
of 2x4's epoxied in place at the
bottom to side chines 'below the
waterline' because this seemed like
a zone at risk of being bashed,
and taking on water through a
split seam.
> I'm also toying with the ideaYes, the same idea crossed
> of adding a second rub rail closer to
> the water line, with an intermediate
> curve for extra protection at
> dock height, any comments?
my mind, but I haven't done
it yet, because I don't know
where the exact 'dock height'
falls on my Micro Navigator.
I see the 1/4" plywood sides
as a bit thin, and subject to
getting mashed by bumping against
a dock float.
I also added interior "fillets"
of 2x4's epoxied in place at the
bottom to side chines 'below the
waterline' because this seemed like
a zone at risk of being bashed,
and taking on water through a
split seam.
If I fix them at all, I'll try to lift them with a wrecker's pry bar,
it's wide so might not rip the underlying ply too much. Or perhaps a
hacksaw blade could be slipped under and thus saw of the nails more
or less flush with the sides?
I'm also toying with the idea of adding a second rub rail closer to
the water line, with an intermediate curve for extra protection at
dock height, any comments?
Bruce Hector
See the two new Bolger boats added to the exchangeable boat list at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freeboatexchange/
A "Martha Jane" in Sacaramento, California and an "AS 29" in southern
Australia! Superb oportunity to try before you build!
it's wide so might not rip the underlying ply too much. Or perhaps a
hacksaw blade could be slipped under and thus saw of the nails more
or less flush with the sides?
I'm also toying with the idea of adding a second rub rail closer to
the water line, with an intermediate curve for extra protection at
dock height, any comments?
Bruce Hector
See the two new Bolger boats added to the exchangeable boat list at
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/freeboatexchange/
A "Martha Jane" in Sacaramento, California and an "AS 29" in southern
Australia! Superb oportunity to try before you build!
I can't recall the exact dimensions on the plans,but I know my rub
rail was one piece,aprox. 1 1/2 X 3". It bent along the traced line
beautifully.Incidently,the plans do show the rub rail as a sweeping
curve. The two rub rails took about two hours to install total and
they had a nice big hollow shaped into the mating surface to hold a
thick bed of epoxy. My thinking was that if and when I should ever
be so unlucky to seriously damage the rub rail, a dutchman would be
the cure.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <brucehallman@y...>
wrote:
rail was one piece,aprox. 1 1/2 X 3". It bent along the traced line
beautifully.Incidently,the plans do show the rub rail as a sweeping
curve. The two rub rails took about two hours to install total and
they had a nice big hollow shaped into the mating surface to hold a
thick bed of epoxy. My thinking was that if and when I should ever
be so unlucky to seriously damage the rub rail, a dutchman would be
the cure.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <brucehallman@y...>
wrote:
> My advice to others, make the rub rail
> of three built up runs of 3/4" by 1 1/2"
> pieces, which can be bent in a two
> dimensional curve to follow the sweep of
> the shearline. A single 1x4 cannot bend
> to follow the shearline, as you see
> in Bruce's "Rust Knot" photos.
> Bruce Hector wrote:Funny thing. I had a very similar
> rub rails (hope I can get them off,
> any tips on removing 200 ring nails
> without ripping up the ply?).
problem with my Micro hull, acquired
'for free' partially complete.
The rub rails were wrong, (to my eye
at least). I removed them using a
carbide tipped blade on my skill saw.
Cutting a hundred cross cuts, with
the depth of the blade set 'just
right'. My fasteners were silicon
bronze, (thank god), but still, when I
hit metal, I backed off and cut again
nearby.
My rubrail was also epoxied glued, and
when I used a flat chisel to remove
the cut up rail pieces, I seriously
gouged the hull plywood. But I filled
the gouges with Raka epoxy thickened
with fumed silica and phenolic microballoons.
Sanded smooth, I cannot see any
problems, and I figure the epoxy
patches are stronger than wood anyway.
My advice to others, make the rub rail
of three built up runs of 3/4" by 1 1/2"
pieces, which can be bent in a two
dimensional curve to follow the sweep of
the shearline. A single 1x4 cannot bend
to follow the shearline, as you see
in Bruce's "Rust Knot" photos.
If you can determine where the nail heads are, cut around them with a
utility knife, or a narrow gouge, just enough to nip off the head. Then
to extract the remaining barbed portion of the nail, use a homemade plug
cutter type bit in a drill to cut out a plug containing the barbed part
of the nail, leaving a nice plugable hole.
A split pin, with an inside diameter barely larger than the nail shank
and the business end either ground at an angle or even better with a
v-notch filed into it, chucked in a drill, will make a fine extractor
for very little of your Canadian coinage......
Rick
Bruce Hector wrote:
utility knife, or a narrow gouge, just enough to nip off the head. Then
to extract the remaining barbed portion of the nail, use a homemade plug
cutter type bit in a drill to cut out a plug containing the barbed part
of the nail, leaving a nice plugable hole.
A split pin, with an inside diameter barely larger than the nail shank
and the business end either ground at an angle or even better with a
v-notch filed into it, chucked in a drill, will make a fine extractor
for very little of your Canadian coinage......
Rick
Bruce Hector wrote:
> <http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/Bolger2/lst>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> I love the arrow straight rub rails (hope I can get them off, any
> tips on removing 200 ring nails without ripping up the ply?).