[bolger] Fldg Schnr cont
Put on the second gunwale. The stainless steel exterior carpentry
screws called scorpions are a joy to use. Used up the rest of the
foaming PL glue. Carefully set up the router with a bearing bit to
nibble off the extra side plank showing above the gunwale. Did a very
neat job but couldn't do it all because of the placement of the
bulkheads. Considered various ways of dealing with this, sabre saw,
belt sander etc. Tried a cheap contractors knock off a Japaneese Pull
saw and almost fell over because the saw went through it so easy and
did such a neat job. Seem to remember something in John Gardner's Dory
Book about how power tools don't always save time.Was inspired to use
the same instrument to cut off the horns of the gunwale where they go
by the transom and the stem. Spent about two hours getting the bevel
for the chines off the plans and onto a test piece. It looked to me
like the bevel changed a little over the length and I wasn't sure it
could be put in on the table saw. I called Dynamite Payson to ask.
Second time I have called in 10 years and he didn't seem to mind. Very
friendly and gracious and of the opinion that though the bevel changes
it isn't enough to matter. Kept being interupted by telemarketers when
I almost had it and had to start over. Finally got something that looks
right on the boat and checks out with the bevel lifted from the plan.
It is almost 19 degrees which seems like a lot. Moved the table saw
over so that it is square with the doorway and we can rip the 16 ft
chines for the forward hull. Decided to wait to cut them out until I
have some extra hands. Went out to find some 3/4 inch screws which I
should have ordered more of. No ss screws that size in town. Found some
3/4 silicon bronze at West Marine. Got the clerk to give me the bulk
price for a 100 which I had to count out of the bin. Cleaned up the
shop and spent about an hour getting a jammed bit chuck on our ancient
router unstuck.
If all goes well tomorrow will cut out the chines for forward hull and
install them with epoxy on the boat. I have some old sand paper for a
flooring machine that is about 30 grit and I will make up a sanding
board to go across the chines and give a final prep to the chine gluing
surface. This was something recommended by the six hour canoe designer
and it really gives a good flat plane to the bottom. If each of the
three boys take a couple of turns it will be about right. Will put a
center line on two sheets of plywood and line them up with the center
lines in the frames and trace the bottom.
Peace,
Leander
screws called scorpions are a joy to use. Used up the rest of the
foaming PL glue. Carefully set up the router with a bearing bit to
nibble off the extra side plank showing above the gunwale. Did a very
neat job but couldn't do it all because of the placement of the
bulkheads. Considered various ways of dealing with this, sabre saw,
belt sander etc. Tried a cheap contractors knock off a Japaneese Pull
saw and almost fell over because the saw went through it so easy and
did such a neat job. Seem to remember something in John Gardner's Dory
Book about how power tools don't always save time.Was inspired to use
the same instrument to cut off the horns of the gunwale where they go
by the transom and the stem. Spent about two hours getting the bevel
for the chines off the plans and onto a test piece. It looked to me
like the bevel changed a little over the length and I wasn't sure it
could be put in on the table saw. I called Dynamite Payson to ask.
Second time I have called in 10 years and he didn't seem to mind. Very
friendly and gracious and of the opinion that though the bevel changes
it isn't enough to matter. Kept being interupted by telemarketers when
I almost had it and had to start over. Finally got something that looks
right on the boat and checks out with the bevel lifted from the plan.
It is almost 19 degrees which seems like a lot. Moved the table saw
over so that it is square with the doorway and we can rip the 16 ft
chines for the forward hull. Decided to wait to cut them out until I
have some extra hands. Went out to find some 3/4 inch screws which I
should have ordered more of. No ss screws that size in town. Found some
3/4 silicon bronze at West Marine. Got the clerk to give me the bulk
price for a 100 which I had to count out of the bin. Cleaned up the
shop and spent about an hour getting a jammed bit chuck on our ancient
router unstuck.
If all goes well tomorrow will cut out the chines for forward hull and
install them with epoxy on the boat. I have some old sand paper for a
flooring machine that is about 30 grit and I will make up a sanding
board to go across the chines and give a final prep to the chine gluing
surface. This was something recommended by the six hour canoe designer
and it really gives a good flat plane to the bottom. If each of the
three boys take a couple of turns it will be about right. Will put a
center line on two sheets of plywood and line them up with the center
lines in the frames and trace the bottom.
Peace,
Leander