Re: [bolger] Jim Michalak answers:

Then, too, one could always do what has been done for centuries--counterbore the bolt hole a little with a larger bit so that the washer under the nut is square with the hole.
----- Original Message -----
From: Chuck Leinweber
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2003 10:18 PM
Subject: [bolger] Jim Michalak answers:


Garth and anyone else interested in the leeboard pivot discussion: Here is Jim's reply:

"You can do it either way but boats with flared sides like Garth's Mayfly
can end up with a very wide lower guard. In that case you will need a
very long bolt and when it comes through the hull inside it will be at
an angle requiring a tapered block of some sort for the nut to seat
properly. You can avoid all of that by notching the guard and putting
the nut in the notch. I did it both ways on my old Piccup Squared which
had flare. The notch does indeed give a short bolt but I was surprised
to find how hard it is to line up the nut when it comes time to mount
the board, which you usually would do every time if you cartop. So I
drilled it through to the inside, made the tapered block and found a
really long bolt. But on Piccup which has no flare in the upper sides
I've used the hole straight through to the inside and love it. You can
tighten the nut while underway with that setup and I used to have a
really elaborate 2" knurled nut that I made on my lathe in aluminum. So
the bottom line is that if the boat has no flare I use no notch. If the
boat has flare I use a notch. But it can be done either way."


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Garth and anyone else interested in the leeboard pivot discussion: Here is Jim's reply:

"You can do it either way but boats with flared sides like Garth's Mayfly
can end up with a very wide lower guard. In that case you will need a
very long bolt and when it comes through the hull inside it will be at
an angle requiring a tapered block of some sort for the nut to seat
properly. You can avoid all of that by notching the guard and putting
the nut in the notch. I did it both ways on my old Piccup Squared which
had flare. The notch does indeed give a short bolt but I was surprised
to find how hard it is to line up the nut when it comes time to mount
the board, which you usually would do every time if you cartop. So I
drilled it through to the inside, made the tapered block and found a
really long bolt. But on Piccup which has no flare in the upper sides
I've used the hole straight through to the inside and love it. You can
tighten the nut while underway with that setup and I used to have a
really elaborate 2" knurled nut that I made on my lathe in aluminum. So
the bottom line is that if the boat has no flare I use no notch. If the
boat has flare I use a notch. But it can be done either way."


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]