Re: Masts

I've made two oars as attached paddles and one with a large chunk of
wood (though I may attach little pieces to widen the oars. The large
chunk approach seems much prettier. I don't have a lathe, either, but it
doesn't seem to be too hard to get reasonably round results with a
drawknife and various other tools. The problem I've been having is that
the wood doesn't want to stay perfectly straight. The paddle type oars
were made on closet pole material (as I recall) and seem to work just
fine, but are ugly. I would say the drawknife is harder to use than a
plane, but more fun. I did use a large plane quite a bit also.

Our wood mast is really nice, even with the knots. It's very thin and
light at the top, partly because our sail doesn't use a halyard.

Anyone know how to stabilize light wood for oars?

Gary Strawn wrote:

> First, I'm not sure if you realized that you sent your emails to me
> instead of the entire group. Yahoo mail can be confusing sometimes.
> Either way is fine, I appreciate the response. I don't check my Yahoo
> email very often so I didn't see it until now.
>
> When you made your oars, did you make them entirely out of a single
> piece of wood or did you attach the paddles to a pole? I don't have a
> lathe so I won't be making my own pole that way. Using a draw knife
> would be fun. From what I've seen, it's no more difficult than using
> a hand plane.
>
>
>
> Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@...> wrote:
>
> I haven't made a mast yet, but I've made oars so I'm sure if you
> can get
> a drawknife it won't be a big deal. My only concern on a mast
> would of
> course getting stock that didn't have too many knots. Everyone
> says just
> strip pieces out of 2X10 or something. The aluminum masts I've
> seen are
> constant cross section extrusions that are pretty heavy at the top.
> Getting a tapered on might not be easy and I understand that some
> of the
> tapered aluminum poles still have the same amount of material at the
> top, it's just been squashed. If you're doing a wood mast it's no
> problem to make it just the right size, and I recall that the wooden
> mast we own is a lot easier to handle than the aluminum one I used to
> have of about the same size, even though the aluminum one required
> stays. And of course there's no comparision in price. I wouldn't
> bother
> with the hol! low mast idea on the smaller ones.
>
> >Gary wrote:
> >Another question for all the experienced builders:
> >
> >Is there any realistic alternative to building a wooden mast? This
> >seems like the one area where building with typical lumberyard stock
> >just isn't worth it. Wouldn't an aluminum mast would be lighter and
> >stronger, atleast for anything over 15' or so. I'm guessing that the
> >primary disadvantage of aluminum masts is the huge cost. A
> >replacement mast for a Lido 14 (no boom, rigging or anything, just
> >the mast) is about $400.
> >snip
> >
>
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It has to be either real good vertical grain or rip it reverse it and
glue it back together. That will usually keep it straight.

HJ

Lincoln Ross wrote:

>I've made two oars as attached paddles and one with a large chunk of
>wood (though I may attach little pieces to widen the oars. The large
>chunk approach seems much prettier. I don't have a lathe, either, but it
>doesn't seem to be too hard to get reasonably round results with a
>drawknife and various other tools. The problem I've been having is that
>the wood doesn't want to stay perfectly straight. The paddle type oars
>were made on closet pole material (as I recall) and seem to work just
>fine, but are ugly. I would say the drawknife is harder to use than a
>plane, but more fun. I did use a large plane quite a bit also.
>
>Our wood mast is really nice, even with the knots. It's very thin and
>light at the top, partly because our sail doesn't use a halyard.
>
>Anyone know how to stabilize light wood for oars?
>
>Gary Strawn wrote:
>
>
>
>