Re: [bolger] Re: Further flipping concerns
--- jakeman19652002 <jakeman19652002@...> a
écrit : > Peter, In Reuel Parkers book The New
Cold-molded
outside securely, and flip it on the brace, see my web
page. For 2 or 300 Cn$ you can do that job, and after
you can use any type of loader to turn it...
Jean
__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
magasinage.yahoo.ca
écrit : > Peter, In Reuel Parkers book The New
Cold-molded
> Boat building, heI was thinking the same way, just brace it inside and
> builds two wheel like frames around the boat and
> just rolls it over.
> If you would like I could scan a picture. Its very
> simple. Jake
>
>
outside securely, and flip it on the brace, see my web
page. For 2 or 300 Cn$ you can do that job, and after
you can use any type of loader to turn it...
Jean
__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
magasinage.yahoo.ca
Peter, In Reuel Parkers book The New Cold-molded Boat building, he
builds two wheel like frames around the boat and just rolls it over.
If you would like I could scan a picture. Its very simple. Jake
builds two wheel like frames around the boat and just rolls it over.
If you would like I could scan a picture. Its very simple. Jake
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Lincoln Ross <lincolnr@r...> wrote:
those funny statues on Easter Island without any fancy tools, and I'm
sure they weigh more than most homebuilts.
Lincoln,
So true but then again based on the only two stories I know of
Easter Island, they; a)had a tribe full of people with nothing but
time on their hands or b)it was those darned busy bodies,the extra-
terrestrials up to their snooty little tricks again.
I have access to neither of these options :-(
Peter L.
> Just want to point out that there may not really be that much of anupper limit, given thought, patience, and care. They managed to move
those funny statues on Easter Island without any fancy tools, and I'm
sure they weigh more than most homebuilts.
Lincoln,
So true but then again based on the only two stories I know of
Easter Island, they; a)had a tribe full of people with nothing but
time on their hands or b)it was those darned busy bodies,the extra-
terrestrials up to their snooty little tricks again.
I have access to neither of these options :-(
Peter L.
> Looking at the pictures it looks like the vertical part will telescopeThe legs are indeed two pieces that telescope from 6' to 9' 8". The bottom
> down into itself? It looks like the top is welded on, but if it was
> bolted it appears you could stow the whole thing in a rather small
> place. You would have to have some sort of bolt on angle gusset between
> the vertical and the horizontal or if it started to lean the whole
> thing could fold sideways if it was just dependent on a bolted together
> joint.
part is a 5' - 3" square tube and the top is a 6' - 2 1/2" square tube with
a 3" plate and angle gusset weld to it solid at the top. The I-Beam bolts
on top of that with 6 high tensile 3/8" bolts on each side. With the I Beam
unbolted and the legs pulled apart, it breaks down into 5 pieces of which
all but the I-Beam ( 100 lbs) can be carried by one person. I have it
stored beside my garage and it takes up a small space indeed.
I built it for straight up lifting. With the wheels suspend by springs,
when the load is off, it rolls easily. At least with the 1200 lbs I had on,
it was rock solid from swaying. Turning a 1500 lb boat hull in it, I think
your right in that I might bolt on a bigger gusset brace temporarily.
Including painting, I had much less than a days work in it. Drilling the 36
bolt holes took most of the time. Welding was less than an hour. I had the
steel shop cut everything to shape so I had no cutting, just drilling and
welding. At $1.00 per cut, it was the best $24.00 spent on the project.
Jeff
We are lucky here in Australia,the hulls are already flipped before we even start building ( ! ) Did I miss something? Andy
Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:In taking a last look at the gantry before closing out your site after I
sent the message below it looks like the the top beam is bolted to the
vertical with a gusset on it so most of my comments were wasted.
HJ
Harry James wrote:
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Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:In taking a last look at the gantry before closing out your site after I
sent the message below it looks like the the top beam is bolted to the
vertical with a gusset on it so most of my comments were wasted.
HJ
Harry James wrote:
>JeffYahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
>Looking at the pictures it looks like the vertical part will telescope
>down into itself? It looks like the top is welded on, but if it was
>bolted it appears you could stow the whole thing in a rather small
>place. You would have to have some sort of bolt on angle gusset between
>the vertical and the horizontal or if it started to lean the whole
>thing could fold sideways if it was just dependent on a bolted together
>joint.
>
>I had a friend who had a beautiful shop that didn't have enough of that
>kind of support. When the snow came off of one side and not the other
>the shop folded.
>
>HJ
>
>jeff wrote:
>
>
>
>>I built a gantry to lift sections of my Wyo. The legs are rated at about
>>4000 lbs each vertical load while the I beam is rated at 2000 lbs center
>>load but as you move the load out to the side legs you can get to 4000 lbs.
>>
>>It wouldn't take much to take these plans and tweak them with a bigger
>>I-beam and large bracing to get up to say 12 feet in width and height.
>>
>>I have about $250 in mine, you could build a couple for the price on one
>>crane trip.
>>
>>The plans on the web where only $14.00
>>
>>Some photos of my gantry are centered on my web page.
>>
>>www.4dw.net/cosailor
>>
>>
>>Jeff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>.
>
>
>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
In taking a last look at the gantry before closing out your site after I
sent the message below it looks like the the top beam is bolted to the
vertical with a gusset on it so most of my comments were wasted.
HJ
Harry James wrote:
sent the message below it looks like the the top beam is bolted to the
vertical with a gusset on it so most of my comments were wasted.
HJ
Harry James wrote:
>Jeff
>
>Looking at the pictures it looks like the vertical part will telescope
>down into itself? It looks like the top is welded on, but if it was
>bolted it appears you could stow the whole thing in a rather small
>place. You would have to have some sort of bolt on angle gusset between
>the vertical and the horizontal or if it started to lean the whole
>thing could fold sideways if it was just dependent on a bolted together
>joint.
>
>I had a friend who had a beautiful shop that didn't have enough of that
>kind of support. When the snow came off of one side and not the other
>the shop folded.
>
>HJ
>
>jeff wrote:
>
>
>
>>I built a gantry to lift sections of my Wyo. The legs are rated at about
>>4000 lbs each vertical load while the I beam is rated at 2000 lbs center
>>load but as you move the load out to the side legs you can get to 4000 lbs.
>>
>>It wouldn't take much to take these plans and tweak them with a bigger
>>I-beam and large bracing to get up to say 12 feet in width and height.
>>
>>I have about $250 in mine, you could build a couple for the price on one
>>crane trip.
>>
>>The plans on the web where only $14.00
>>
>>Some photos of my gantry are centered on my web page.
>>
>>www.4dw.net/cosailor
>>
>>
>>Jeff
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>Bolger rules!!!
>- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
>- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
>- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
>- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
>- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>.
>
>
>
Jeff
Looking at the pictures it looks like the vertical part will telescope
down into itself? It looks like the top is welded on, but if it was
bolted it appears you could stow the whole thing in a rather small
place. You would have to have some sort of bolt on angle gusset between
the vertical and the horizontal or if it started to lean the whole
thing could fold sideways if it was just dependent on a bolted together
joint.
I had a friend who had a beautiful shop that didn't have enough of that
kind of support. When the snow came off of one side and not the other
the shop folded.
HJ
jeff wrote:
Looking at the pictures it looks like the vertical part will telescope
down into itself? It looks like the top is welded on, but if it was
bolted it appears you could stow the whole thing in a rather small
place. You would have to have some sort of bolt on angle gusset between
the vertical and the horizontal or if it started to lean the whole
thing could fold sideways if it was just dependent on a bolted together
joint.
I had a friend who had a beautiful shop that didn't have enough of that
kind of support. When the snow came off of one side and not the other
the shop folded.
HJ
jeff wrote:
>I built a gantry to lift sections of my Wyo. The legs are rated at about
>4000 lbs each vertical load while the I beam is rated at 2000 lbs center
>load but as you move the load out to the side legs you can get to 4000 lbs.
>
>It wouldn't take much to take these plans and tweak them with a bigger
>I-beam and large bracing to get up to say 12 feet in width and height.
>
>I have about $250 in mine, you could build a couple for the price on one
>crane trip.
>
>The plans on the web where only $14.00
>
>Some photos of my gantry are centered on my web page.
>
>www.4dw.net/cosailor
>
>
>Jeff
>
>
Just want to point out that there may not really be that much of an upper limit, given thought, patience, and care. They managed to move those funny statues on Easter Island without any fancy tools, and I'm sure they weigh more than most homebuilts.
I could not resist one more thought, head over to the local gym and
offer some cold ones to about 20 guys who will help, but don't let
any one have any till work is done J
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
offer some cold ones to about 20 guys who will help, but don't let
any one have any till work is done J
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:Roberts
> > I built a gantry to lift sections of my Wyo. > Some photos of my
> gantry are centered on my web page.
> >
> > www.4dw.net/cosailor
> >
> >
> > Jeff
>
>
> Jeff,
> That's a real pro job you've got there! Looks like your're all
> set to build many boats once you grow tired of Wyo :-)
> I can't weld nor am I set up for working with steel.My tool
> box/shop is essentially the trunk of my car plus the back seat and
> roof rack.Already,these spaces are taken up with wood working
> equipement however my neighbour in the boonies is building a
> 40 Spray about 15' beside me.Perhaps I should see about getting himsuccess
> to weld up something like your gantry.......
> Then again,Jakes idea sounds like the"cleanest" one since once
> the job is over,back go the wall lifters to the rental shop and the
> building site remains uncluttered. God knows what I would do with a
> pair of used amateur built steel gantries once their usefulness was
> over.
> Thanks for the inspiration,just the same, and continued
> on WYO.Don't do anything crazy that will find you back at thedoctors
> office......it's buildin' time :-D
>
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan,beginning to feel like goin' over to the boat,right
> now,and just getting the job done so I can post pictures and give a
> report on how it all went,and hopefully not from a hospital
> bed........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jeff" <boatbuilding@g...> wrote:
That's a real pro job you've got there! Looks like your're all
set to build many boats once you grow tired of Wyo :-)
I can't weld nor am I set up for working with steel.My tool
box/shop is essentially the trunk of my car plus the back seat and
roof rack.Already,these spaces are taken up with wood working
equipement however my neighbour in the boonies is building a Roberts
40 Spray about 15' beside me.Perhaps I should see about getting him
to weld up something like your gantry.......
Then again,Jakes idea sounds like the"cleanest" one since once
the job is over,back go the wall lifters to the rental shop and the
building site remains uncluttered. God knows what I would do with a
pair of used amateur built steel gantries once their usefulness was
over.
Thanks for the inspiration,just the same, and continued success
on WYO.Don't do anything crazy that will find you back at the doctors
office......it's buildin' time :-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,beginning to feel like goin' over to the boat,right
now,and just getting the job done so I can post pictures and give a
report on how it all went,and hopefully not from a hospital
bed........
> I built a gantry to lift sections of my Wyo. > Some photos of mygantry are centered on my web page.
>Jeff,
> www.4dw.net/cosailor
>
>
> Jeff
That's a real pro job you've got there! Looks like your're all
set to build many boats once you grow tired of Wyo :-)
I can't weld nor am I set up for working with steel.My tool
box/shop is essentially the trunk of my car plus the back seat and
roof rack.Already,these spaces are taken up with wood working
equipement however my neighbour in the boonies is building a Roberts
40 Spray about 15' beside me.Perhaps I should see about getting him
to weld up something like your gantry.......
Then again,Jakes idea sounds like the"cleanest" one since once
the job is over,back go the wall lifters to the rental shop and the
building site remains uncluttered. God knows what I would do with a
pair of used amateur built steel gantries once their usefulness was
over.
Thanks for the inspiration,just the same, and continued success
on WYO.Don't do anything crazy that will find you back at the doctors
office......it's buildin' time :-D
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,beginning to feel like goin' over to the boat,right
now,and just getting the job done so I can post pictures and give a
report on how it all went,and hopefully not from a hospital
bed........
I wish I had pictures. It was a plywood and epoxy boat. The wives sat
on lawn chairs and watched the whole affair. It just went over and
came to a gentil rest, I thought it would bounce or something, but
nope. It was as soft a landen as I have had. J
on lawn chairs and watched the whole affair. It just went over and
came to a gentil rest, I thought it would bounce or something, but
nope. It was as soft a landen as I have had. J
>call.Sounds
>
> Thanks Jake!
> I'll give my local tool equipement rental store a
> like a good idea. In fact, a very good idea for lowering the bottomgroup
> once past vertical.I'm not too keen on the idea of just letting her
> fall onto a pile of softness.....unless we're talking lots of
> matresses.
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan, grateful for the great ideas available from this
> of maniacs!
I built a gantry to lift sections of my Wyo. The legs are rated at about
4000 lbs each vertical load while the I beam is rated at 2000 lbs center
load but as you move the load out to the side legs you can get to 4000 lbs.
It wouldn't take much to take these plans and tweak them with a bigger
I-beam and large bracing to get up to say 12 feet in width and height.
I have about $250 in mine, you could build a couple for the price on one
crane trip.
The plans on the web where only $14.00
Some photos of my gantry are centered on my web page.
www.4dw.net/cosailor
Jeff
4000 lbs each vertical load while the I beam is rated at 2000 lbs center
load but as you move the load out to the side legs you can get to 4000 lbs.
It wouldn't take much to take these plans and tweak them with a bigger
I-beam and large bracing to get up to say 12 feet in width and height.
I have about $250 in mine, you could build a couple for the price on one
crane trip.
The plans on the web where only $14.00
Some photos of my gantry are centered on my web page.
www.4dw.net/cosailor
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "jakeman19652002" <jakeman19652002@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2003 3:51 PM
Subject: [bolger] Further flipping concerns
> I have flipped a 25' boat with a car jack and alot of bracing,
> blocking it up as I went. It reached its balance point, and with a
> light push went over to a soft landing on stacks of tires. The whole
> job was not to hard. There are also things called wall jacks that are
> used to lift walls when framing a house. Two of these would lift a
> 30' boat with no problem, as I have sed them to lift 50' walls easly.
> they are metal poles that expand to 18' and have come alongs atached
> to them. They could be rented cheaply. Either way a slow and
> deliberate approch, with the use of blocking should be safe and do
> the job. Jake
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "jakeman19652002"
<jakeman19652002@y...> wrote:
There are also things called wall jacks that are
I'll give my local tool equipement rental store a call.Sounds
like a good idea. In fact, a very good idea for lowering the bottom
once past vertical.I'm not too keen on the idea of just letting her
fall onto a pile of softness.....unless we're talking lots of
matresses.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, grateful for the great ideas available from this group
of maniacs!
<jakeman19652002@y...> wrote:
There are also things called wall jacks that are
> used to lift walls when framing a house. Two of these would lift aeasly.
> 30' boat with no problem, as I have sed them to lift 50' walls
> they are metal poles that expand to 18' and have come alongsatached
> to them. They could be rented cheaply. Either way a slow andThanks Jake!
> deliberate approch, with the use of blocking should be safe and do
> the job. Jake
I'll give my local tool equipement rental store a call.Sounds
like a good idea. In fact, a very good idea for lowering the bottom
once past vertical.I'm not too keen on the idea of just letting her
fall onto a pile of softness.....unless we're talking lots of
matresses.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, grateful for the great ideas available from this group
of maniacs!
I have flipped a 25' boat with a car jack and alot of bracing,
blocking it up as I went. It reached its balance point, and with a
light push went over to a soft landing on stacks of tires. The whole
job was not to hard. There are also things called wall jacks that are
used to lift walls when framing a house. Two of these would lift a
30' boat with no problem, as I have sed them to lift 50' walls easly.
they are metal poles that expand to 18' and have come alongs atached
to them. They could be rented cheaply. Either way a slow and
deliberate approch, with the use of blocking should be safe and do
the job. Jake
blocking it up as I went. It reached its balance point, and with a
light push went over to a soft landing on stacks of tires. The whole
job was not to hard. There are also things called wall jacks that are
used to lift walls when framing a house. Two of these would lift a
30' boat with no problem, as I have sed them to lift 50' walls easly.
they are metal poles that expand to 18' and have come alongs atached
to them. They could be rented cheaply. Either way a slow and
deliberate approch, with the use of blocking should be safe and do
the job. Jake
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
Not wishing to put words in our Heros' mouth but I can tell you
that following several long faxes and an equally long phone call from
Him I was left with the clear impression that he is indeed not only
aware but,perhaps more importantly, very much concerned about the
builders' safety.He could not stress enough this concern,nor could
Susanne, and they proceeded with the gantry sketches.
It should also be stressed that there is perhaps a practical
upper limit for this sort of flipping by amateur boatbuilders.At some
point there has to be an industrial level involvement of cranes or
hoists.
Not that this should deter anyone from building their dream boat
but it may be an element worthy of serious study and considertion for
those building out in the open since it will/can involve expenses not
normally accounted for in a budget. I enquired up here for the
smallest crane, only $265/hour,minimum 3 hours.Since I will have
to "flip" her 3 times, that comes out to $2385.00 CAN. That is a lot
of wood or epoxy or fiberglass etc...and certainly something I never
budgeted for.
Perhaps as more of his "bigger" designs get built,which require
flipping, he will include as part of the plans package details for
gantries or other lifting devices.
Nevertheless, I remain confident that the flipping sessions will
go just fine so long as enough muscle power is present and things
proceed cautiously.
May I be so bold as to enquire about some juicy details
concerning your next Bolger boat"not quite as big as Windermere"? New
builds excite me to no end!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,marvelling at the brave sun peeking through the hole
pocked cloud base.Which reminds me of an expression my grandmother
used to say;"if you can see enough blue to patch a sailors pants,then
the weather will improve." I miss her optimism...........
> >and am wondering if he realizes the work involved in
>
> Regarding Windermere's bottom....
>
> multiple flips in a non-boatshop setting.Rick,
Not wishing to put words in our Heros' mouth but I can tell you
that following several long faxes and an equally long phone call from
Him I was left with the clear impression that he is indeed not only
aware but,perhaps more importantly, very much concerned about the
builders' safety.He could not stress enough this concern,nor could
Susanne, and they proceeded with the gantry sketches.
It should also be stressed that there is perhaps a practical
upper limit for this sort of flipping by amateur boatbuilders.At some
point there has to be an industrial level involvement of cranes or
hoists.
Not that this should deter anyone from building their dream boat
but it may be an element worthy of serious study and considertion for
those building out in the open since it will/can involve expenses not
normally accounted for in a budget. I enquired up here for the
smallest crane, only $265/hour,minimum 3 hours.Since I will have
to "flip" her 3 times, that comes out to $2385.00 CAN. That is a lot
of wood or epoxy or fiberglass etc...and certainly something I never
budgeted for.
Perhaps as more of his "bigger" designs get built,which require
flipping, he will include as part of the plans package details for
gantries or other lifting devices.
Nevertheless, I remain confident that the flipping sessions will
go just fine so long as enough muscle power is present and things
proceed cautiously.
May I be so bold as to enquire about some juicy details
concerning your next Bolger boat"not quite as big as Windermere"? New
builds excite me to no end!!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,marvelling at the brave sun peeking through the hole
pocked cloud base.Which reminds me of an expression my grandmother
used to say;"if you can see enough blue to patch a sailors pants,then
the weather will improve." I miss her optimism...........
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
There will be two flip sessions. The "problem",if we can call it
that centers around the box keel fillet and the chine logs.The
building manual refers to bolting the chine logs on while the box
keel fillet piece runs out to the edge of the bottom.That is,were I
to install the fillet piece, I would not be able to access that part
of the bottom edge to bolt the chine logs on.The chine logs are
intended to be installed once the bottom is flipped.
Since I was going to flip the bottom anyway, I chose to cut the
bottom outline 1/4" proud of the line so as to allow room for final
fairing after the chine log has been laid fair.
Any way, the up shot is that the chine logs do not have to
be "bolted" but could be screwed if they are going to be seasted in
epoxy.
Furthermore,since this is a prototype, I chose to NOT trace lines
exactly to the measurements but rather allow the true lay of a fair
curve from a lofting batten to determine precise lines.The numbers
produced by Bolger are fair but there are a few spots where up to
3/8" was needed to bring things into fair.
I really do not mind flipping the bottom,especially as I have a
bunch of die-hards chomping at the bit to help flip her.
The jig is my own idea inspired by Bolgers mention that the whole
affair must a)support alot of weight when finished,b) must remain
perfectly true and square and in my case, I knew it would be outside
in all sorts of weather and have to be able to deal with snow loads
and spring thaw......the ground heaving and shifting....the jig has
to be like a girder. The jig took about 40 odd 2X4s and a weekend to
screw together.No big deal and as I wrote to Bolger, I am really glad
I built it as strong as I did.
An indoor shop,milder climate,and concrete floor would all
require a less robust structure.
Sorry if this seems stilted,but I am trying to sneek in a quick
one before leaving work.
Let me know if anything is not clear.
sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> >Rick,
>
There will be two flip sessions. The "problem",if we can call it
that centers around the box keel fillet and the chine logs.The
building manual refers to bolting the chine logs on while the box
keel fillet piece runs out to the edge of the bottom.That is,were I
to install the fillet piece, I would not be able to access that part
of the bottom edge to bolt the chine logs on.The chine logs are
intended to be installed once the bottom is flipped.
Since I was going to flip the bottom anyway, I chose to cut the
bottom outline 1/4" proud of the line so as to allow room for final
fairing after the chine log has been laid fair.
Any way, the up shot is that the chine logs do not have to
be "bolted" but could be screwed if they are going to be seasted in
epoxy.
Furthermore,since this is a prototype, I chose to NOT trace lines
exactly to the measurements but rather allow the true lay of a fair
curve from a lofting batten to determine precise lines.The numbers
produced by Bolger are fair but there are a few spots where up to
3/8" was needed to bring things into fair.
I really do not mind flipping the bottom,especially as I have a
bunch of die-hards chomping at the bit to help flip her.
The jig is my own idea inspired by Bolgers mention that the whole
affair must a)support alot of weight when finished,b) must remain
perfectly true and square and in my case, I knew it would be outside
in all sorts of weather and have to be able to deal with snow loads
and spring thaw......the ground heaving and shifting....the jig has
to be like a girder. The jig took about 40 odd 2X4s and a weekend to
screw together.No big deal and as I wrote to Bolger, I am really glad
I built it as strong as I did.
An indoor shop,milder climate,and concrete floor would all
require a less robust structure.
Sorry if this seems stilted,but I am trying to sneek in a quick
one before leaving work.
Let me know if anything is not clear.
sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> Regarding Windermere's bottom....bottom of
>
> I see by the Bolger 2 photos you've posted that you built the
> Windermere upside down. You refer to the "first of two" layers ofglass,
> and now you are speaking of flipping the hull. Did you put on thesecond
> layer of cloth, or will you before the flip? You also mentionedwas
> something about an error or confusion in building sequence, what
> that all about? Will you need even more hull turning?be a
>
> I ask not to be a pest, but to learn. Looks like my next build will
> "not quite as big as" Windermere design, also by Bolger, and he hasrecall
> directions as to build, flip, build, flip, glass, flip etc. I
> much of Bolger's early writing and plans left the buildingdecisions to
> the builder and am wondering if he realizes the work involved inbottom
> multiple flips in a non-boatshop setting. When I built Reddy
> (Microtrawler) I did everything including final finish on the
> (excrpt for the perimeter 4" allowing for side panel joining andtaping)
> before the one and only flip.........bunch
>
> That's a very impressive jig you built on. It looks to me like a
> of hours and materials. Do you feel it was necessary? Was thatBolger's
> recomendation or something you wanted? For the boat I'mconsidering,
> Bolger decrees only six sawhorse type supports for what willeventually
> be nearly a ton of boat. Seems awfully rickity compared to what youbuilt.
>
> Any comments from you or others are welcome........
>
> Rick
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>Regarding Windermere's bottom....
I see by the Bolger 2 photos you've posted that you built the bottom of
Windermere upside down. You refer to the "first of two" layers of glass,
and now you are speaking of flipping the hull. Did you put on the second
layer of cloth, or will you before the flip? You also mentioned
something about an error or confusion in building sequence, what was
that all about? Will you need even more hull turning?
I ask not to be a pest, but to learn. Looks like my next build will be a
"not quite as big as" Windermere design, also by Bolger, and he has
directions as to build, flip, build, flip, glass, flip etc. I recall
much of Bolger's early writing and plans left the building decisions to
the builder and am wondering if he realizes the work involved in
multiple flips in a non-boatshop setting. When I built Reddy
(Microtrawler) I did everything including final finish on the bottom
(excrpt for the perimeter 4" allowing for side panel joining and taping)
before the one and only flip.........
That's a very impressive jig you built on. It looks to me like a bunch
of hours and materials. Do you feel it was necessary? Was that Bolger's
recomendation or something you wanted? For the boat I'm considering,
Bolger decrees only six sawhorse type supports for what will eventually
be nearly a ton of boat. Seems awfully rickity compared to what you built.
Any comments from you or others are welcome........
Rick
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]