Re: [bolger] Re: Sprit Sail rig/Topsails
>Not all that long ago (#157) Wooden Boat ran an article by William GardenAh, right. I remember thinking it was a really swell writeup.
>about the topsail he rigged up for his peapod. The topsail is permanantly
>laced to a "jackyard" that is hoisted with a halyard through a bee-hole in
>the masthead, the jackyard extends far enough below where the halyard is
>connected so that it can be lashed to the sprit, near the mast. The topsail
>sheet goes through a bee-hole in the peak end of the sprit and back to a
>cleat near the heel of the sprit.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Not all that long ago (#157) Wooden Boat ran an article by William Garden
about the topsail he rigged up for his peapod. The topsail is permanantly
laced to a "jackyard" that is hoisted with a halyard through a bee-hole in
the masthead, the jackyard extends far enough below where the halyard is
connected so that it can be lashed to the sprit, near the mast. The topsail
sheet goes through a bee-hole in the peak end of the sprit and back to a
cleat near the heel of the sprit. Garden, no longer a young man, raises and
lowers the topsail while afloat, though I'd want to have lots of practice
doing the chore on the beach before attempting it while sailing. This is the
setup I'm going to use on my skiff someday (I've got the hole in the
masthead drilled anyway!). Here's a pic of Garden's peapod:
http://www.boat-links.com/images/GardenTopsail.jpg
about the topsail he rigged up for his peapod. The topsail is permanantly
laced to a "jackyard" that is hoisted with a halyard through a bee-hole in
the masthead, the jackyard extends far enough below where the halyard is
connected so that it can be lashed to the sprit, near the mast. The topsail
sheet goes through a bee-hole in the peak end of the sprit and back to a
cleat near the heel of the sprit. Garden, no longer a young man, raises and
lowers the topsail while afloat, though I'd want to have lots of practice
doing the chore on the beach before attempting it while sailing. This is the
setup I'm going to use on my skiff someday (I've got the hole in the
masthead drilled anyway!). Here's a pic of Garden's peapod:
http://www.boat-links.com/images/GardenTopsail.jpg
On Thu, 5 Jun 2003 08:39:52 -0400, COD wrote:
> ...
> Fishing boats in North Carolina used a topsail over spritsail as part
> of the normal rig; they had long poles on which the topsail was tied,
> and then the poles were lashed to the mast. I don't have much more
> detail than this however.
>
> The Cheap Pages (somewhere - use the search function) have a link to
> Conor O'Brien's simplified gaff-topsail, which may be adaptable to a
> spritsail with a little thought. His point is that the topsail must
> be attached and raised with the main down - as opposed to the big
> boat style of sending the topsail "up". This is sensible on a small
> boat or one without a host of burly fishermen on board to do all this
> "rig"amarole and amounts to reefing before leaving the beach or dock.
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
A facility for quotation covers the absence of original thought.
<Lord Peter Wimsey>
>I'd go with the latter and, indeed, I'm probably going to make a similarFishing boats in North Carolina used a topsail over spritsail as part
>setup for my boat someday, because it's a slug in light breezes. In both
>cases, the topsail sheet would go through a hole in the peak of the sprit,
>or a small block or fairlead mounted there, and back to a cleat near the
>heel of the sprit.
of the normal rig; they had long poles on which the topsail was tied,
and then the poles were lashed to the mast. I don't have much more
detail than this however.
The Cheap Pages (somewhere - use the search function) have a link to
Conor O'Brien's simplified gaff-topsail, which may be adaptable to a
spritsail with a little thought. His point is that the topsail must
be attached and raised with the main down - as opposed to the big
boat style of sending the topsail "up". This is sensible on a small
boat or one without a host of burly fishermen on board to do all this
"rig"amarole and amounts to reefing before leaving the beach or dock.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
There's lots of good info in Leather's book, alright (I sure wish I'd bought
it back when it was in print!), but I don't recall if there are any
specifics for Danish boats. You won't regret getting the book, anyway.
It looks like there were two ways of rigging a topsail for small Danish
boats: A lug topsail apparently hoisted with a halyard to a topmast fitted
through a spectacle iron at the masthead and with the heel fastened somehow
to a fitting on the forward side of the mast:
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Odin.gif
Or a jib-headed topsail, probably permanently laced to the topmast, probably
hoisted with a halyard through a hole in the masthead, with the heel lashed
to the mast:
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Snekkerston.gif
I'd go with the latter and, indeed, I'm probably going to make a similar
setup for my boat someday, because it's a slug in light breezes. In both
cases, the topsail sheet would go through a hole in the peak of the sprit,
or a small block or fairlead mounted there, and back to a cleat near the
heel of the sprit.
Here are some pictures of Danish spritsail boats to give you inspiration.
All the illustrations are from an English translation of a work by Christien
Nielsen, published in the US of A by Int'l Marine as Wooden Boat Designs.
Unfortunately, Nielsen doesn't go into the details of the rigging of the
boats. :o(
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Odin-1.jpg
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Odin-2.jpg
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Snekkerston.gif
I'd guess that your boat might be unique on SF Bay, but there are lots of
strange and exotic boats down there, so don't be surprised to find a Danish
Jolle club there! ;o) Where and when was your boat built? Maybe I can find
something about the type in Nielsen's book.
it back when it was in print!), but I don't recall if there are any
specifics for Danish boats. You won't regret getting the book, anyway.
It looks like there were two ways of rigging a topsail for small Danish
boats: A lug topsail apparently hoisted with a halyard to a topmast fitted
through a spectacle iron at the masthead and with the heel fastened somehow
to a fitting on the forward side of the mast:
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Odin.gif
Or a jib-headed topsail, probably permanently laced to the topmast, probably
hoisted with a halyard through a hole in the masthead, with the heel lashed
to the mast:
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Snekkerston.gif
I'd go with the latter and, indeed, I'm probably going to make a similar
setup for my boat someday, because it's a slug in light breezes. In both
cases, the topsail sheet would go through a hole in the peak of the sprit,
or a small block or fairlead mounted there, and back to a cleat near the
heel of the sprit.
Here are some pictures of Danish spritsail boats to give you inspiration.
All the illustrations are from an English translation of a work by Christien
Nielsen, published in the US of A by Int'l Marine as Wooden Boat Designs.
Unfortunately, Nielsen doesn't go into the details of the rigging of the
boats. :o(
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Odin-1.jpg
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Odin-2.jpg
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Snekkerston.gif
I'd guess that your boat might be unique on SF Bay, but there are lots of
strange and exotic boats down there, so don't be surprised to find a Danish
Jolle club there! ;o) Where and when was your boat built? Maybe I can find
something about the type in Nielsen's book.
On Wed, 04 Jun 2003 12:51:55 -0000, Honest John wrote:
> Thanks Craig,
> The book you mention is out of print, but through Amazon I found one
> used; $70.00! I'm hoping for lots of good info. After this summer,
> I'm shipping this little 'jolle' to the Sand Francisco bay area where
> I hope to have lots of fun with it. I wonder if there will be many of
> its type on the bay.
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
"Necessity is the mother of invention" is a silly proverb.
"Necessity is the mother of futile dodges" is much nearer the truth.
<Alfred North Whitehead>
Thanks Craig,
The book you mention is out of print, but through Amazon I found one
used; $70.00! I'm hoping for lots of good info. After this summer,
I'm shipping this little 'jolle' to the Sand Francisco bay area where
I hope to have lots of fun with it. I wonder if there will be many of
its type on the bay.
Honest John
The book you mention is out of print, but through Amazon I found one
used; $70.00! I'm hoping for lots of good info. After this summer,
I'm shipping this little 'jolle' to the Sand Francisco bay area where
I hope to have lots of fun with it. I wonder if there will be many of
its type on the bay.
Honest John
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, craig o'donnell <dadadata@f...> wrote:
> >Also, my Danish source named a top sail that was also sometimes used,
> >would that entail a movable spar or would it rig to a spar lashed
> >firmly to the masthead? It would surely look fine, but is probably a
> >bit 'over the top', so to speak.
>
> Probably a spar lashed vertically to the mast but I can't be sure. I
> think John Leather's SPRITSAILS AND LUGSAILS has a drawing of this
> boat.
> --
> Craig O'Donnell
> Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
> <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
> The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
> The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
> Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
> American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
> Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
> _________________________________
>
> -- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
> -- Macintosh kinda guy
> Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
> _________________________________
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
>Also, my Danish source named a top sail that was also sometimes used,Probably a spar lashed vertically to the mast but I can't be sure. I
>would that entail a movable spar or would it rig to a spar lashed
>firmly to the masthead? It would surely look fine, but is probably a
>bit 'over the top', so to speak.
think John Leather's SPRITSAILS AND LUGSAILS has a drawing of this
boat.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
A veritable goldmine of knowledge in this group, and such nice,
helpful people as well, it's an oasis of friendship in a world of
conflict. Thank you all and especially Craig and John for your time
and efforts in the cause of just fooling around; (but doing so
properly). Your diagrams are printed out and sealed in plastic and
placed on the thwarts as I work on the rig. I study them like an
art-forger studies a Rembrandt. Now, in answer to Craigs last, 'no',
there are no reefing points or grommets on the sail for that reefing
procedure. Perhaps the scandlising technique is the most viable.
Also, my Danish source named a top sail that was also sometimes used,
would that entail a movable spar or would it rig to a spar lashed
firmly to the masthead? It would surely look fine, but is probably a
bit 'over the top', so to speak.
John Mann
helpful people as well, it's an oasis of friendship in a world of
conflict. Thank you all and especially Craig and John for your time
and efforts in the cause of just fooling around; (but doing so
properly). Your diagrams are printed out and sealed in plastic and
placed on the thwarts as I work on the rig. I study them like an
art-forger studies a Rembrandt. Now, in answer to Craigs last, 'no',
there are no reefing points or grommets on the sail for that reefing
procedure. Perhaps the scandlising technique is the most viable.
Also, my Danish source named a top sail that was also sometimes used,
would that entail a movable spar or would it rig to a spar lashed
firmly to the masthead? It would surely look fine, but is probably a
bit 'over the top', so to speak.
John Mann
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, jhkohnen@b... wrote:
> I think we're getting close. I've never heard of a line from the
peak end of
> the sprit to the masthead, and it doesn't sound like it'd be very
practical.
> Your local source may have given you a garbled description of a
brail. You
> may not have a brail now, it's awfully handy, but lots of
traditional sprit
> rigs didn't have one. Don't worry about that now.
>
> To reduce sail in a blow, remove the sprit and lash the peak of the
sail to
> the tack (or just let it blow out to leeward). This is called
> "scandalizing". You may not be able to get to windward with a
scandalized
> sail, but it'll work well enough on other points.
>
> Now it's time for some of the finer points. The throat of the sail
should be
> fastened to the mast with a loop of strong line, this loop is under
a lot of
> strain from the sprit. The forth and back lacing will start at the next
> grommet down. I use an "English Knot" on the throat loop, since it's
strong,
> secure and easy to adjust.
>
> Secure the tack downhaul and tighten the halyard to make the luff
taut (even
> if you never lower the sail, the halyard is used to adjust the luff
tension,
> without it you could use an adjustable tack downhaul). Install the
sprit,
> then pull in the sheet until the boat wants to sail away (maybe with the
> trailer? <g>) and then peak the sprit up until the wrinkles that run
from
> throat to clew just go away. Adjust the luff lacing (I use a stopper
knot on
> each end) so that the slack is just taken up, but not so tight that the
> lacing pulls the luff closer to the mast. The sail will set better
if the
> lacing isn't too tight.
>
> When sailing, the harder the wind blows, the tighter you want the luff
> tension and the harder you want to peak the sprit up (watch for those
> wrinkles from throat to clew), the lighter the wind, the slacker you
want
> the luff and sprit. On my boat I've got the tack downhaul and
snotter led
> back to near the helm so I can adjust the sail easily, but that's not
> "traditional".
>
> If you want to rig a brail, measure the head of the sail, then
measure down
> the leech that same distance and install a grommet. The brail should
be a
> light, slippery line, I'm using 1/8" braided dacron (again, not
> traditional). I seized a small block to the side of the throat loop
opposite
> the knot. On the other side, I loosened the English Knot and
threaded the
> end of the brail through the center of the knot and put a stopper
knot in
> the end of it (of course there are other ways to do all this, this
is just
> what I've done). The brail goes from the knot side of the loop,
throught the
> grommet on the leech, up the other side and through the block, then
down.
> It's a good idea to seize a small ring onto the luff lacing about
halfway
> down the mast to run the brail through to keep it from flying around
in the
> breeze.
>
> Here's a sketch of how I've got my brail rigged:
>
>http://www.boat-links.com/images/Brail.gif
>
> And here's something that probably looks a lot like your boat will
when you
> get it all rigged :o)
>
>http://www.boat-links.com/images/Klitmoller.gif
>
> On Mon, 02 Jun 2003 12:20:42 -0000, Honest John wrote:
> > John and Craig,
> > Yes, you guys have got it right. The snotter is as your drawing
> > shows, the sprit is turned down to a smaller diameter at the end, and
> > the snotter has a braided loop that just fits in that loop. And Dr.
> > Craig, yes, there is a jib. I was waiting to spring that one on you,
> > but hadn't had the nerve yet. But now the snotter's out of the
> > scupper or whatever(what?), so the final mystery of the rig must be
> > addressed. If I assume that:
> > 1.)the sheave-wheel in the mast is for the (loosely laced)mainsail
> > halyard, and
> > 2.) the block at the masthead is for the jib halyard,
> > 3.) another block would be required for the theoretically possible
> > brailing line. A local here told me that there should be a halyard
> > from the masthead to the peak-end of the sprit with which the sprit is
> > pulled up to the mast, but he had never seen the connection from the
> > masthead to the clew. He used the word 'wrong' for that. It would
> > seem that where I tie the sprit halyard off would be somewhat
> > academic, there are a couple of loose wooden cleats which I haven't
> > been able to find the proper place for yet, which will serve nicely. I
> > don't think any fairleads were used.
> > So professors, does that sound somewhat sensible? Now, what about
> > reefing?......
> > appreciatively yours,
> > >http://www.boat-links.com/images/SpritsailLacing.gif
>
> --
> John <jkohnen@b...>
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> I cannot help thinking that the people with motor boats miss a great
deal.
> If they would only keep to rowboats or canoes, and use oar or
paddle...
> they would get infinitely more benefit than by having their work
done for
> them by gasoline. <Theodore Roosevelt>
>3.) another block would be required for the theoretically possibleYes. There are 3 ways to rig a brail that I know of.
>brailing line. A local here told me that there should be a halyard
>from the masthead to the peak-end of the sprit with which the sprit is
>pulled up to the mast, but he had never seen the connection from the
>masthead to the clew. He used the word 'wrong' for that. It would
>seem that where I tie the sprit halyard off would be somewhat
>academic, there are a couple of loose wooden cleats which I haven't
>been able to find the proper place for yet, which will serve nicely. I
>don't think any fairleads were used.
1. A line to the peak (top) of the sprit to pull it to the mast, or
some point on the sprit itself.
2. A line, as John K has described, which starts at the masthead,
runs through the leech of the sail a ways down (through a grommet or
block or something), runs to a masthead pulley, and down to the deck.
This gathers both sail and sprit.
3. The line from masthead to the clew has been used on Delaware
Duckers, but the Duckers have a boom. This brails the sail by pulling
the aft end of the boom upward, etc. I don't see why this would not
work on a boomless sail but the resulting bundle would not be very
neat.
Reefing, well, are there any lines of reef nettles or grommets?
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
I think we're getting close. I've never heard of a line from the peak end of
the sprit to the masthead, and it doesn't sound like it'd be very practical.
Your local source may have given you a garbled description of a brail. You
may not have a brail now, it's awfully handy, but lots of traditional sprit
rigs didn't have one. Don't worry about that now.
To reduce sail in a blow, remove the sprit and lash the peak of the sail to
the tack (or just let it blow out to leeward). This is called
"scandalizing". You may not be able to get to windward with a scandalized
sail, but it'll work well enough on other points.
Now it's time for some of the finer points. The throat of the sail should be
fastened to the mast with a loop of strong line, this loop is under a lot of
strain from the sprit. The forth and back lacing will start at the next
grommet down. I use an "English Knot" on the throat loop, since it's strong,
secure and easy to adjust.
Secure the tack downhaul and tighten the halyard to make the luff taut (even
if you never lower the sail, the halyard is used to adjust the luff tension,
without it you could use an adjustable tack downhaul). Install the sprit,
then pull in the sheet until the boat wants to sail away (maybe with the
trailer? <g>) and then peak the sprit up until the wrinkles that run from
throat to clew just go away. Adjust the luff lacing (I use a stopper knot on
each end) so that the slack is just taken up, but not so tight that the
lacing pulls the luff closer to the mast. The sail will set better if the
lacing isn't too tight.
When sailing, the harder the wind blows, the tighter you want the luff
tension and the harder you want to peak the sprit up (watch for those
wrinkles from throat to clew), the lighter the wind, the slacker you want
the luff and sprit. On my boat I've got the tack downhaul and snotter led
back to near the helm so I can adjust the sail easily, but that's not
"traditional".
If you want to rig a brail, measure the head of the sail, then measure down
the leech that same distance and install a grommet. The brail should be a
light, slippery line, I'm using 1/8" braided dacron (again, not
traditional). I seized a small block to the side of the throat loop opposite
the knot. On the other side, I loosened the English Knot and threaded the
end of the brail through the center of the knot and put a stopper knot in
the end of it (of course there are other ways to do all this, this is just
what I've done). The brail goes from the knot side of the loop, throught the
grommet on the leech, up the other side and through the block, then down.
It's a good idea to seize a small ring onto the luff lacing about halfway
down the mast to run the brail through to keep it from flying around in the
breeze.
Here's a sketch of how I've got my brail rigged:
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Brail.gif
And here's something that probably looks a lot like your boat will when you
get it all rigged :o)
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Klitmoller.gif
the sprit to the masthead, and it doesn't sound like it'd be very practical.
Your local source may have given you a garbled description of a brail. You
may not have a brail now, it's awfully handy, but lots of traditional sprit
rigs didn't have one. Don't worry about that now.
To reduce sail in a blow, remove the sprit and lash the peak of the sail to
the tack (or just let it blow out to leeward). This is called
"scandalizing". You may not be able to get to windward with a scandalized
sail, but it'll work well enough on other points.
Now it's time for some of the finer points. The throat of the sail should be
fastened to the mast with a loop of strong line, this loop is under a lot of
strain from the sprit. The forth and back lacing will start at the next
grommet down. I use an "English Knot" on the throat loop, since it's strong,
secure and easy to adjust.
Secure the tack downhaul and tighten the halyard to make the luff taut (even
if you never lower the sail, the halyard is used to adjust the luff tension,
without it you could use an adjustable tack downhaul). Install the sprit,
then pull in the sheet until the boat wants to sail away (maybe with the
trailer? <g>) and then peak the sprit up until the wrinkles that run from
throat to clew just go away. Adjust the luff lacing (I use a stopper knot on
each end) so that the slack is just taken up, but not so tight that the
lacing pulls the luff closer to the mast. The sail will set better if the
lacing isn't too tight.
When sailing, the harder the wind blows, the tighter you want the luff
tension and the harder you want to peak the sprit up (watch for those
wrinkles from throat to clew), the lighter the wind, the slacker you want
the luff and sprit. On my boat I've got the tack downhaul and snotter led
back to near the helm so I can adjust the sail easily, but that's not
"traditional".
If you want to rig a brail, measure the head of the sail, then measure down
the leech that same distance and install a grommet. The brail should be a
light, slippery line, I'm using 1/8" braided dacron (again, not
traditional). I seized a small block to the side of the throat loop opposite
the knot. On the other side, I loosened the English Knot and threaded the
end of the brail through the center of the knot and put a stopper knot in
the end of it (of course there are other ways to do all this, this is just
what I've done). The brail goes from the knot side of the loop, throught the
grommet on the leech, up the other side and through the block, then down.
It's a good idea to seize a small ring onto the luff lacing about halfway
down the mast to run the brail through to keep it from flying around in the
breeze.
Here's a sketch of how I've got my brail rigged:
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Brail.gif
And here's something that probably looks a lot like your boat will when you
get it all rigged :o)
http://www.boat-links.com/images/Klitmoller.gif
On Mon, 02 Jun 2003 12:20:42 -0000, Honest John wrote:
> John and Craig,
> Yes, you guys have got it right. The snotter is as your drawing
> shows, the sprit is turned down to a smaller diameter at the end, and
> the snotter has a braided loop that just fits in that loop. And Dr.
> Craig, yes, there is a jib. I was waiting to spring that one on you,
> but hadn't had the nerve yet. But now the snotter's out of the
> scupper or whatever(what?), so the final mystery of the rig must be
> addressed. If I assume that:
> 1.)the sheave-wheel in the mast is for the (loosely laced)mainsail
> halyard, and
> 2.) the block at the masthead is for the jib halyard,
> 3.) another block would be required for the theoretically possible
> brailing line. A local here told me that there should be a halyard
> from the masthead to the peak-end of the sprit with which the sprit is
> pulled up to the mast, but he had never seen the connection from the
> masthead to the clew. He used the word 'wrong' for that. It would
> seem that where I tie the sprit halyard off would be somewhat
> academic, there are a couple of loose wooden cleats which I haven't
> been able to find the proper place for yet, which will serve nicely. I
> don't think any fairleads were used.
> So professors, does that sound somewhat sensible? Now, what about
> reefing?......
> appreciatively yours,
> >http://www.boat-links.com/images/SpritsailLacing.gif
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
I cannot help thinking that the people with motor boats miss a great deal.
If they would only keep to rowboats or canoes, and use oar or paddle...
they would get infinitely more benefit than by having their work done for
them by gasoline. <Theodore Roosevelt>
John and Craig,
Yes, you guys have got it right. The snotter is as your drawing
shows, the sprit is turned down to a smaller diameter at the end, and
the snotter has a braided loop that just fits in that loop. And Dr.
Craig, yes, there is a jib. I was waiting to spring that one on you,
but hadn't had the nerve yet. But now the snotter's out of the
scupper or whatever(what?), so the final mystery of the rig must be
addressed. If I assume that:
1.)the sheave-wheel in the mast is for the (loosely laced)mainsail
halyard, and
2.) the block at the masthead is for the jib halyard,
3.) another block would be required for the theoretically possible
brailing line. A local here told me that there should be a halyard
from the masthead to the peak-end of the sprit with which the sprit is
pulled up to the mast, but he had never seen the connection from the
masthead to the clew. He used the word 'wrong' for that. It would
seem that where I tie the sprit halyard off would be somewhat
academic, there are a couple of loose wooden cleats which I haven't
been able to find the proper place for yet, which will serve nicely. I
don't think any fairleads were used.
So professors, does that sound somewhat sensible? Now, what about
reefing?......
appreciatively yours,
John Mann
Yes, you guys have got it right. The snotter is as your drawing
shows, the sprit is turned down to a smaller diameter at the end, and
the snotter has a braided loop that just fits in that loop. And Dr.
Craig, yes, there is a jib. I was waiting to spring that one on you,
but hadn't had the nerve yet. But now the snotter's out of the
scupper or whatever(what?), so the final mystery of the rig must be
addressed. If I assume that:
1.)the sheave-wheel in the mast is for the (loosely laced)mainsail
halyard, and
2.) the block at the masthead is for the jib halyard,
3.) another block would be required for the theoretically possible
brailing line. A local here told me that there should be a halyard
from the masthead to the peak-end of the sprit with which the sprit is
pulled up to the mast, but he had never seen the connection from the
masthead to the clew. He used the word 'wrong' for that. It would
seem that where I tie the sprit halyard off would be somewhat
academic, there are a couple of loose wooden cleats which I haven't
been able to find the proper place for yet, which will serve nicely. I
don't think any fairleads were used.
So professors, does that sound somewhat sensible? Now, what about
reefing?......
appreciatively yours,
John Mann
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, jhkohnen@b... wrote:
> That's a lug rig, Craig. ;o)
>
> Snotter: Some sprit-rigged boats had a simple loop around the mast
that the
> heel of the sprit fit into, sounds like John's got something like
that. To
> adjust the sprit, the loop was pushed up or down the mast. To keep
the loop
> from slipping on the mast it was kept damp.
>
> A good kind of lacing to use is what's called "forth and back",
where the
> lacing line goes through a particular sail grommet and then comes back
> around the same side of the mast. This kind of lacing doesn't jam
when you
> raise or lower the sail. Don't lace the sail tightly to the mast,
it'll work
> better a little loose.
>
> Here's a sketch of forth and back lacing. Does your snotter look
something
> like this, John?
>
>http://www.boat-links.com/images/SpritsailLacing.gif
>
> On Thu, 29 May 2003 17:41:47 -0400, Craig wrote:
> > >Then I fitted the sprit into the
> > >pocket in the peak of the sail. Then I fitted the snotter. Fine so
> > >far.
> > ...
> >
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/cranks/dinghy/dinghy_rig.html
>
> --
> John <jkohnen@b...>
>http://www.boat-links.com/
> The denunciation of the young is a necessary part of the hygiene of
> older people, and greatly assists the circulation of the blood.
> <Logan Pearsall Smith>
>That's a lug rig, Craig. ;o)What's a lug rig got to do with it? The web page I'm referring to has
the names the bits and pieces of a small boat rig (Tack, Clew, Sheet,
Halyard, whatnot).
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
That's a lug rig, Craig. ;o)
Snotter: Some sprit-rigged boats had a simple loop around the mast that the
heel of the sprit fit into, sounds like John's got something like that. To
adjust the sprit, the loop was pushed up or down the mast. To keep the loop
from slipping on the mast it was kept damp.
A good kind of lacing to use is what's called "forth and back", where the
lacing line goes through a particular sail grommet and then comes back
around the same side of the mast. This kind of lacing doesn't jam when you
raise or lower the sail. Don't lace the sail tightly to the mast, it'll work
better a little loose.
Here's a sketch of forth and back lacing. Does your snotter look something
like this, John?
http://www.boat-links.com/images/SpritsailLacing.gif
Snotter: Some sprit-rigged boats had a simple loop around the mast that the
heel of the sprit fit into, sounds like John's got something like that. To
adjust the sprit, the loop was pushed up or down the mast. To keep the loop
from slipping on the mast it was kept damp.
A good kind of lacing to use is what's called "forth and back", where the
lacing line goes through a particular sail grommet and then comes back
around the same side of the mast. This kind of lacing doesn't jam when you
raise or lower the sail. Don't lace the sail tightly to the mast, it'll work
better a little loose.
Here's a sketch of forth and back lacing. Does your snotter look something
like this, John?
http://www.boat-links.com/images/SpritsailLacing.gif
On Thu, 29 May 2003 17:41:47 -0400, Craig wrote:
> >Then I fitted the sprit into the
> >pocket in the peak of the sail. Then I fitted the snotter. Fine so
> >far.
> ...
>http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/cranks/dinghy/dinghy_rig.html
--
John <jkohnen@...>
http://www.boat-links.com/
The denunciation of the young is a necessary part of the hygiene of
older people, and greatly assists the circulation of the blood.
<Logan Pearsall Smith>
Craig, Thanks very much for your replies. Yes, the longest rope
consists of two halves each tied to opposite ends of a single block.
One of the halves runs through the eye of one end of a block which can
slide all along that half. I've tried now to upload pics to a new
folder. A message tells me that even the first pic is too big for the
size allotted for this group. So much for that. I wanted to send an
e-mail to you directly as you had indicated I could, but the Yahoo
message system doesn't show your complete e-mail address; only to the
first letter after the '@' sign. If I try to send the pics via Yahoo,
it says even one pic is too big. What do others do? If I could send
you a normal e-mail with the pics attached I would, but it won't work
via Yahoo. Grrr. :o(
John
consists of two halves each tied to opposite ends of a single block.
One of the halves runs through the eye of one end of a block which can
slide all along that half. I've tried now to upload pics to a new
folder. A message tells me that even the first pic is too big for the
size allotted for this group. So much for that. I wanted to send an
e-mail to you directly as you had indicated I could, but the Yahoo
message system doesn't show your complete e-mail address; only to the
first letter after the '@' sign. If I try to send the pics via Yahoo,
it says even one pic is too big. What do others do? If I could send
you a normal e-mail with the pics attached I would, but it won't work
via Yahoo. Grrr. :o(
John
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, craig o'donnell <dadadata@f...> wrote:
> >Then I fitted the sprit into the
> >pocket in the peak of the sail. Then I fitted the snotter. Fine so
> >far. Now I'm left with a rope about 30 ft. long with a block tied
> >into the middle (15' tied to one side of the block, 15' to the other.
>
> I'm a little confused. Is this two 15ft pieces?
>
> Does the block have a becket (a bracket below the wheel, on the
> opposite side from the shackle or bail).
>
>
> >On one 15' piece, there is a loose block. They must have something to
> >do with the connection between the clew and the traveller, but I can't
> >quite see how. The other 15' end I've run diagonally from the clew
> >through the wheel at the masthead and on down to a belaying pin at the
> >foot of the mast. There is no sheet or halyard attached to the sprit,
>
> Well, this is almost certainly wrong if I'm understanding correctly.
> Your halyard should be a simple piece of rope, tied to the head of
> the sail, running down in front of the mast or on the side away from
> the sprit, to a belaying pin.
>
> The other belaying pin is probably for the downhaul - a short line
> from the tack (fore. lower corner) grommet to the pin.
>
> >I guess it just follows the sail if I hoist the sheet running from
> >masthead to clew.
>
> The sheet is attached to the back end of the sail and it's what you
> pull on. The clew is the technical name for the attachment.
>
> Look here for a simple rig with explanations:
>
>
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/cranks/dinghy/dinghy_rig.html
>
>
>
> >figure out how to send them to the group (the e-mail I regisered with
> >is a Hotmail account). Could I send them to someone's e-mail account
> >who could then up?
>
> >Thanks very much everyone for your replies. It's 25 degrees C here
> >today, and I'm going crazy trying to get on the water.
> >Honest John
>
> --
> Craig O'Donnell
> Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
> <http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
> The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
> The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
> Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
> American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
> Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
> _________________________________
>
> -- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
> -- Macintosh kinda guy
> Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
> _________________________________
> ---
> [This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Look also here for introductory material (sure it's 1905, but not
that much has changed)
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/kenealy/kenealy0.html
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
that much has changed)
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/kenealy/kenealy0.html
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
>Then I fitted the sprit into theI'm a little confused. Is this two 15ft pieces?
>pocket in the peak of the sail. Then I fitted the snotter. Fine so
>far. Now I'm left with a rope about 30 ft. long with a block tied
>into the middle (15' tied to one side of the block, 15' to the other.
Does the block have a becket (a bracket below the wheel, on the
opposite side from the shackle or bail).
>On one 15' piece, there is a loose block. They must have something toWell, this is almost certainly wrong if I'm understanding correctly.
>do with the connection between the clew and the traveller, but I can't
>quite see how. The other 15' end I've run diagonally from the clew
>through the wheel at the masthead and on down to a belaying pin at the
>foot of the mast. There is no sheet or halyard attached to the sprit,
Your halyard should be a simple piece of rope, tied to the head of
the sail, running down in front of the mast or on the side away from
the sprit, to a belaying pin.
The other belaying pin is probably for the downhaul - a short line
from the tack (fore. lower corner) grommet to the pin.
>I guess it just follows the sail if I hoist the sheet running fromThe sheet is attached to the back end of the sail and it's what you
>masthead to clew.
pull on. The clew is the technical name for the attachment.
Look here for a simple rig with explanations:
http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/cranks/dinghy/dinghy_rig.html
>figure out how to send them to the group (the e-mail I regisered with--
>is a Hotmail account). Could I send them to someone's e-mail account
>who could then up?
>Thanks very much everyone for your replies. It's 25 degrees C here
>today, and I'm going crazy trying to get on the water.
>Honest John
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
I've got some fairly good pics, but I can't
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
>figure out how to send them to the group (the e-mail I regisered withSure, send 'em to me.
>is a Hotmail account). Could I send them to someone's e-mail account
>who could then up?
>Thanks very much everyone for your replies. It's 25 degrees C here
>today, and I'm going crazy trying to get on the water.
>Honest John
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Hmmm...
That didn't work, I am guessing that this group doesn't allow
attachments to the messages, or what? On the message page, it says
the attachment was removed from the message. I'll try to make a photo
folder later, but for now, I've still got kwerstions. I stepped the
mast and laced the sail to it. Then I fitted the sprit into the
pocket in the peak of the sail. Then I fitted the snotter. Fine so
far. Now I'm left with a rope about 30 ft. long with a block tied
into the middle (15' tied to one side of the block, 15' to the other.
On one 15' piece, there is a loose block. They must have something to
do with the connection between the clew and the traveller, but I can't
quite see how. The other 15' end I've run diagonally from the clew
through the wheel at the masthead and on down to a belaying pin at the
foot of the mast. There is no sheet or halyard attached to the sprit,
I guess it just follows the sail if I hoist the sheet running from
masthead to clew. What would normally be the connection to the
traveller, a block or a simple clip-on hook that runs metal to meatl
on the wire traveller? I've got some fairly good pics, but I can't
figure out how to send them to the group (the e-mail I regisered with
is a Hotmail account). Could I send them to someone's e-mail account
who could then up?
Thanks very much everyone for your replies. It's 25 degrees C here
today, and I'm going crazy trying to get on the water.
Honest John
That didn't work, I am guessing that this group doesn't allow
attachments to the messages, or what? On the message page, it says
the attachment was removed from the message. I'll try to make a photo
folder later, but for now, I've still got kwerstions. I stepped the
mast and laced the sail to it. Then I fitted the sprit into the
pocket in the peak of the sail. Then I fitted the snotter. Fine so
far. Now I'm left with a rope about 30 ft. long with a block tied
into the middle (15' tied to one side of the block, 15' to the other.
On one 15' piece, there is a loose block. They must have something to
do with the connection between the clew and the traveller, but I can't
quite see how. The other 15' end I've run diagonally from the clew
through the wheel at the masthead and on down to a belaying pin at the
foot of the mast. There is no sheet or halyard attached to the sprit,
I guess it just follows the sail if I hoist the sheet running from
masthead to clew. What would normally be the connection to the
traveller, a block or a simple clip-on hook that runs metal to meatl
on the wire traveller? I've got some fairly good pics, but I can't
figure out how to send them to the group (the e-mail I regisered with
is a Hotmail account). Could I send them to someone's e-mail account
who could then up?
Thanks very much everyone for your replies. It's 25 degrees C here
today, and I'm going crazy trying to get on the water.
Honest John