Less flipping concerns
Nowadays caution and safety must be woven into any of Bolger's "how to
assemble it" supplements included with the newer designs, and rightly
so. Out here on the farm we tend look at something until we can decide
how to do it "safe enough", then we get on with it. Just yesterday I
unloaded a palletfull of sacks of cement by tying a rope from the
pallet to a tree and driving the truck out from under it. A big crunch,
some dust, and of course a busted pallet, had all whole thing on the
ground in short order.
Back to boats...
This bottom flipping is really just tipping up onto one edge followed by
a brief moment of balance and then a "tipping down", much different from
rolling a hull. Keeping the ground edge padded to protect it, and
blocked or guyed to keep it from shifting are first concerns. Then the
method of tipping up and lowering, with thoughts applied to "what could
go wrong at this point" all has to be figured. A bunch of humans, and a
softened "landing zone" will get you there, .... if they all understand
the process. --For instance when balanced on edge too many folks pushing
back on one end, while others are holding steady on the other could
cause an out of control spin---- Guylines with friction wraps on
trees, buildings or cars and the people tending them can be important to
safety.
I'm sure you will have it all worked out and the whole thing will be
over with in a moment. (Be certain the photographer is ready or we'll
make you flip it back and do it again for the photo section.)
One thought..., tipping it up with the jig attached will give you a
stable halfway point, then release the bottom from the jig and ease the
bottom down (guylines running over the jig back to suitable anchor
points) with a padded landing zone??????
I wish I could tease you with tiny scraps of info describing my super
secret, yet to be released to the public, one of a kind, designed just
for me, but suitable for every Bolger fan, latest, greatest build. What
I'm really up to is deciding if I can knock together a WDJ schooner this
summer. The bottom is smaller than Windermere's at 24' 2'" X 6' of
doubled 1/2" ply plus the 1.5" shoe. My rough guess is 500 to 600 lbs in
the bottom. Nowhere near what you're dealing with, but I'd really like
to keep the flipping to a minimum while still doing the maximum amount
of work "down hand". That said, Bolger wants me to build the first layer
of the shoe rightside up, flip it upside down and drape it over
sawhorses to the proper bottom arc, build the second (outer) shoe layer
on that, sheath and finish that, flip the completed shoe rightside up,
build the bottom on top of the shoe, two layers, add the chines,
bulkheads and topsides from there.... That leaves a bunch of bottom work
to do with the hull upright, including bottom glassing and the fitting,
bedding and fastening of fifteen 9mm thick steel plates.....
Anyway, I think if got a modified sequence figured out, I'll be testing
it on a 3D model this week to see how it goes.....
Rick
Peter Lenihan wrote:
assemble it" supplements included with the newer designs, and rightly
so. Out here on the farm we tend look at something until we can decide
how to do it "safe enough", then we get on with it. Just yesterday I
unloaded a palletfull of sacks of cement by tying a rope from the
pallet to a tree and driving the truck out from under it. A big crunch,
some dust, and of course a busted pallet, had all whole thing on the
ground in short order.
Back to boats...
This bottom flipping is really just tipping up onto one edge followed by
a brief moment of balance and then a "tipping down", much different from
rolling a hull. Keeping the ground edge padded to protect it, and
blocked or guyed to keep it from shifting are first concerns. Then the
method of tipping up and lowering, with thoughts applied to "what could
go wrong at this point" all has to be figured. A bunch of humans, and a
softened "landing zone" will get you there, .... if they all understand
the process. --For instance when balanced on edge too many folks pushing
back on one end, while others are holding steady on the other could
cause an out of control spin---- Guylines with friction wraps on
trees, buildings or cars and the people tending them can be important to
safety.
I'm sure you will have it all worked out and the whole thing will be
over with in a moment. (Be certain the photographer is ready or we'll
make you flip it back and do it again for the photo section.)
One thought..., tipping it up with the jig attached will give you a
stable halfway point, then release the bottom from the jig and ease the
bottom down (guylines running over the jig back to suitable anchor
points) with a padded landing zone??????
I wish I could tease you with tiny scraps of info describing my super
secret, yet to be released to the public, one of a kind, designed just
for me, but suitable for every Bolger fan, latest, greatest build. What
I'm really up to is deciding if I can knock together a WDJ schooner this
summer. The bottom is smaller than Windermere's at 24' 2'" X 6' of
doubled 1/2" ply plus the 1.5" shoe. My rough guess is 500 to 600 lbs in
the bottom. Nowhere near what you're dealing with, but I'd really like
to keep the flipping to a minimum while still doing the maximum amount
of work "down hand". That said, Bolger wants me to build the first layer
of the shoe rightside up, flip it upside down and drape it over
sawhorses to the proper bottom arc, build the second (outer) shoe layer
on that, sheath and finish that, flip the completed shoe rightside up,
build the bottom on top of the shoe, two layers, add the chines,
bulkheads and topsides from there.... That leaves a bunch of bottom work
to do with the hull upright, including bottom glassing and the fitting,
bedding and fastening of fifteen 9mm thick steel plates.....
Anyway, I think if got a modified sequence figured out, I'll be testing
it on a 3D model this week to see how it goes.....
Rick
Peter Lenihan wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
> > >
> >
> > Regarding Windermere's bottom....
> >
> and am wondering if he realizes the work involved in
> > multiple flips in a non-boatshop setting.
>
> Rick,
> Not wishing to put words in our Heros' mouth but I can tell you
> that following several long faxes and an equally long phone call from
> Him I was left with the clear impression that he is indeed not only
> aware but,perhaps more importantly, very much concerned about the
> builders' safety.He could not stress enough this concern,nor could
> Susanne, and they proceeded with the gantry sketches.
> It should also be stressed that there is perhaps a practical
> upper limit for this sort of flipping by amateur boatbuilders.At some
> point there has to be an industrial level involvement of cranes or
> hoists.
> Not that this should deter anyone from building their dream boat
> but it may be an element worthy of serious study and considertion for
> those building out in the open since it will/can involve expenses not
> normally accounted for in a budget. I enquired up here for the
> smallest crane, only $265/hour,minimum 3 hours.Since I will have
> to "flip" her 3 times, that comes out to $2385.00 CAN. That is a lot
> of wood or epoxy or fiberglass etc...and certainly something I never
> budgeted for.
> Perhaps as more of his "bigger" designs get built,which require
> flipping, he will include as part of the plans package details for
> gantries or other lifting devices.
> Nevertheless, I remain confident that the flipping sessions will
> go just fine so long as enough muscle power is present and things
> proceed cautiously.
> May I be so bold as to enquire about some juicy details
> concerning your next Bolger boat"not quite as big as Windermere"? New
> builds excite me to no end!!
>
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan,marvelling at the brave sun peeking through the hole
> pocked cloud base.Which reminds me of an expression my grandmother
> used to say;"if you can see enough blue to patch a sailors pants,then
> the weather will improve." I miss her optimism...........
>