Re: [bolger] Re: jig saw blades
Sometimes it is easier to drill the appropriate size hole where the cuts need to be tight, then cut the rest with a saw.
Chuck
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: smshatz
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 24, 2003 12:07 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: jig saw blades
I'm trying to do some arch shapes. I also want to be able to do some
small tight curves, like corbel cuts in the end of a 2x.
I think I can pull off the longer shallower arch shapes, but I'll
have to experiment with the smaller tighter curves. I've done a
little better with the better blades.
Stephen
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Corbin" <corbinbates@n...> wrote:
> What kind of cuts are you trying to do with the Jig Saw on the 2x
> lumber? If you are just doing straight cross cuts I would say get a
> skill saw.
>
> Even some round cuts can be done with that same skill saw. Mind you
> they can only be Outside curves and you will have to do mutiple
> passes. Not the best setup but it can be done.
>
> Corbin
>
> -----------
> =====~=====
> ----'v'----
> ===//.\\===We are Penguin,
> --/(...)\--Resistance is futile.
> ====^'^====
> -----------
>
> Talk at ya later..................
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smshatz" <steveshatz@h...> wrote:
> > Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
> > getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out
at
> > the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
> > brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
> > slower or fast?
> >
> > Thanks.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm trying to do some arch shapes. I also want to be able to do some
small tight curves, like corbel cuts in the end of a 2x.
I think I can pull off the longer shallower arch shapes, but I'll
have to experiment with the smaller tighter curves. I've done a
little better with the better blades.
Stephen
small tight curves, like corbel cuts in the end of a 2x.
I think I can pull off the longer shallower arch shapes, but I'll
have to experiment with the smaller tighter curves. I've done a
little better with the better blades.
Stephen
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Corbin" <corbinbates@n...> wrote:
> What kind of cuts are you trying to do with the Jig Saw on the 2x
> lumber? If you are just doing straight cross cuts I would say get a
> skill saw.
>
> Even some round cuts can be done with that same skill saw. Mind you
> they can only be Outside curves and you will have to do mutiple
> passes. Not the best setup but it can be done.
>
> Corbin
>
> -----------
> =====~=====
> ----'v'----
> ===//.\\===We are Penguin,
> --/(...)\--Resistance is futile.
> ====^'^====
> -----------
>
> Talk at ya later..................
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smshatz" <steveshatz@h...> wrote:
> > Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
> > getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out
at
> > the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
> > brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
> > slower or fast?
> >
> > Thanks.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <brucehallman@y...>
wrote:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=138
and I like their blades too......cuts through two laminated 11/16 MDO
panels( 1 3/8" total) like it wasn't there.Have to force myself to
slow down and pay attention ;-)
Peter Lenihan
wrote:
> --- "pp01138" <pp01138@p...> wrote:Here is a link to one of my favorite babies:
> > Bosch , I bought one,
>
> Was it the 'top handle' Bosch?
>
>http://tinyurl.com/e66u
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/tool_detail.asp?productID=138
and I like their blades too......cuts through two laminated 11/16 MDO
panels( 1 3/8" total) like it wasn't there.Have to force myself to
slow down and pay attention ;-)
Peter Lenihan
That's the one I bought. It's a great
saw.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <brucehallman@y...>
wrote:
saw.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hallman" <brucehallman@y...>
wrote:
> --- "pp01138" <pp01138@p...> wrote:
> > Bosch , I bought one,
>
> Was it the 'top handle' Bosch?
>
>http://tinyurl.com/e66u
What kind of cuts are you trying to do with the Jig Saw on the 2x
lumber? If you are just doing straight cross cuts I would say get a
skill saw.
Even some round cuts can be done with that same skill saw. Mind you
they can only be Outside curves and you will have to do mutiple
passes. Not the best setup but it can be done.
Corbin
-----------
=====~=====
----'v'----
===//.\\===We are Penguin,
--/(...)\--Resistance is futile.
====^'^====
-----------
Talk at ya later..................
lumber? If you are just doing straight cross cuts I would say get a
skill saw.
Even some round cuts can be done with that same skill saw. Mind you
they can only be Outside curves and you will have to do mutiple
passes. Not the best setup but it can be done.
Corbin
-----------
=====~=====
----'v'----
===//.\\===We are Penguin,
--/(...)\--Resistance is futile.
====^'^====
-----------
Talk at ya later..................
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smshatz" <steveshatz@h...> wrote:
> Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
> getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out at
> the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
> brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
> slower or fast?
>
> Thanks.
--- "pp01138" <pp01138@p...> wrote:
http://tinyurl.com/e66u
> Bosch , I bought one,Was it the 'top handle' Bosch?
http://tinyurl.com/e66u
Years ago, Fine Homebuilding did a comparison test of premium
sabersaws, and the Bosch was the winner. At that time, they made the
comment that a lot of house carpenters in California were simply
using their Bosch for everything and foregoing a normal circular saw.
I had a hard time believing that until yesterday, when I bought one,
complete with an assortment of high quality blades which were side
ground and made in Germany.
Let me say that I should have done this 15 years ago. The performance
is incredible. I too believe it is a combination of blade and saw.
The saw is so stable and smooth it is unbelieveable, and the various
adjustments allow you to fine tune the performance to the material.
The blades cut like a hot knife through butter. A course tooth
aggresive blade cut 2" like a circular saw, and a 20 tooth fine blade
made freehand cuts in 1/4" luan with no backing, no vibration and no
splintering at all. I was cutting braces and hand held the plywood.
One experiment I did try amazed me. I marked some straight lines on
1/2" ply and cut with both the Bosch and my Delta bandsaw with a 3/8"
blade. I was able to cut an obviously straighter line with the Bosch
than with the bandsaw. The saber saw was more controlable than the
band saw with its inherent blade wander.
sabersaws, and the Bosch was the winner. At that time, they made the
comment that a lot of house carpenters in California were simply
using their Bosch for everything and foregoing a normal circular saw.
I had a hard time believing that until yesterday, when I bought one,
complete with an assortment of high quality blades which were side
ground and made in Germany.
Let me say that I should have done this 15 years ago. The performance
is incredible. I too believe it is a combination of blade and saw.
The saw is so stable and smooth it is unbelieveable, and the various
adjustments allow you to fine tune the performance to the material.
The blades cut like a hot knife through butter. A course tooth
aggresive blade cut 2" like a circular saw, and a 20 tooth fine blade
made freehand cuts in 1/4" luan with no backing, no vibration and no
splintering at all. I was cutting braces and hand held the plywood.
One experiment I did try amazed me. I marked some straight lines on
1/2" ply and cut with both the Bosch and my Delta bandsaw with a 3/8"
blade. I was able to cut an obviously straighter line with the Bosch
than with the bandsaw. The saber saw was more controlable than the
band saw with its inherent blade wander.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "smshatz" <steveshatz@h...> wrote:
> Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
> getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out at
> the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
> brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
> slower or fast?
>
> Thanks.
The best blade on earth will not cut worth a toot unless you have an
orbital type saw with the bottom support. I use a Bosch because
that is the first one of that type that came out. It bears no
comparison to non orbital jig saws and is an altogether different
tool. Any jig saw that binds the blade with a screw on the side
should be given to someone you don't like.
Jamestown Distributors sells a Sterling blade with the Bosch bayonet
head that I like very much.
I cut some curves in a pair of 6X12 (That's 5 1/2 by 12 inches)
laminated yellow pine beams with my Bosch. The saw had to cut the
curve in two passes with the first being with a blind bottom cut.
Yeah, slow and easy with a long coarse blade and the cuts did not
match exactly but the job got done. With a bit of work from the
belt sander the curves were just fine. I also cut similar curves on
the ends of each 2X12 yellow pine roof rafter with the same saw.
Duck soup after the beams.
The fine tooth blades with no tooth set are not intended for curves
and will just burn up if you try to do that with them. The key to
cutting curves (in addition to a good saw) is a blade with
sufficient tooth set for the radius you want to cut.
orbital type saw with the bottom support. I use a Bosch because
that is the first one of that type that came out. It bears no
comparison to non orbital jig saws and is an altogether different
tool. Any jig saw that binds the blade with a screw on the side
should be given to someone you don't like.
Jamestown Distributors sells a Sterling blade with the Bosch bayonet
head that I like very much.
I cut some curves in a pair of 6X12 (That's 5 1/2 by 12 inches)
laminated yellow pine beams with my Bosch. The saw had to cut the
curve in two passes with the first being with a blind bottom cut.
Yeah, slow and easy with a long coarse blade and the cuts did not
match exactly but the job got done. With a bit of work from the
belt sander the curves were just fine. I also cut similar curves on
the ends of each 2X12 yellow pine roof rafter with the same saw.
Duck soup after the beams.
The fine tooth blades with no tooth set are not intended for curves
and will just burn up if you try to do that with them. The key to
cutting curves (in addition to a good saw) is a blade with
sufficient tooth set for the radius you want to cut.
Hi again,
Here are the numbers of the blades that I sent to Chuck.
#BT320JC 3" X 3/16" X .050, 20 TPI. retail $3.64 ea.
#BT450J 4" X 5/16" X .050, 10 TPI retail $3.97 ea.
TPI means teeth per inch. More cuts smoother, less cuts
faster.
They are made by:
American Saw and Mfg. Co.
They are a little expensive but will by far out last and cut better than
any other blade that I have used.
James
-----Original Message-----
From:welshman@...[mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:32 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
I remember the exchange about the Lennox blades, but I couldn't remember
blade name or who. I figured if I let this tread go some one would bring up
what I wanted to know.
The question now is, where do you get Lennox blades, I was unable to locate
them at my favorite tool stores.
HJ
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Chuck Leinweberchuck@...
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:57:34 -0500
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
That is a common problem with cheap jig saws. The answer is to get a more
expensive one, or at least a more expensive blade - get the highest priced
one you can find. On the other hand, a cheap circle or skill type saw will
cut square, although they are loud and intimidating. I got some Lennox jig
saw blades from James Fuller of this list, and those are the best I have
ever used. Like Paul said, use a sharp blade and don't force the cut.
Chuck
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Here are the numbers of the blades that I sent to Chuck.
#BT320JC 3" X 3/16" X .050, 20 TPI. retail $3.64 ea.
#BT450J 4" X 5/16" X .050, 10 TPI retail $3.97 ea.
TPI means teeth per inch. More cuts smoother, less cuts
faster.
They are made by:
American Saw and Mfg. Co.
They are a little expensive but will by far out last and cut better than
any other blade that I have used.
James
-----Original Message-----
From:welshman@...[mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:32 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
I remember the exchange about the Lennox blades, but I couldn't remember
blade name or who. I figured if I let this tread go some one would bring up
what I wanted to know.
The question now is, where do you get Lennox blades, I was unable to locate
them at my favorite tool stores.
HJ
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Chuck Leinweberchuck@...
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:57:34 -0500
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
That is a common problem with cheap jig saws. The answer is to get a more
expensive one, or at least a more expensive blade - get the highest priced
one you can find. On the other hand, a cheap circle or skill type saw will
cut square, although they are loud and intimidating. I got some Lennox jig
saw blades from James Fuller of this list, and those are the best I have
ever used. Like Paul said, use a sharp blade and don't force the cut.
Chuck
--------------------------------------------------------------------
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http://mail2web.com/.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
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Go to this site :http://www.lenoxsaw.com/
Tell them where you are and ask for the name of a distributor near you.
James Fuller
-----Original Message-----
From:welshman@...[mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:32 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
I remember the exchange about the Lennox blades, but I couldn't remember
blade name or who. I figured if I let this tread go some one would bring up
what I wanted to know.
The question now is, where do you get Lennox blades, I was unable to locate
them at my favorite tool stores.
HJ
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Chuck Leinweberchuck@...
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:57:34 -0500
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
That is a common problem with cheap jig saws. The answer is to get a more
expensive one, or at least a more expensive blade - get the highest priced
one you can find. On the other hand, a cheap circle or skill type saw will
cut square, although they are loud and intimidating. I got some Lennox jig
saw blades from James Fuller of this list, and those are the best I have
ever used. Like Paul said, use a sharp blade and don't force the cut.
Chuck
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Tell them where you are and ask for the name of a distributor near you.
James Fuller
-----Original Message-----
From:welshman@...[mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 10:32 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
I remember the exchange about the Lennox blades, but I couldn't remember
blade name or who. I figured if I let this tread go some one would bring up
what I wanted to know.
The question now is, where do you get Lennox blades, I was unable to locate
them at my favorite tool stores.
HJ
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Chuck Leinweberchuck@...
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:57:34 -0500
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
That is a common problem with cheap jig saws. The answer is to get a more
expensive one, or at least a more expensive blade - get the highest priced
one you can find. On the other hand, a cheap circle or skill type saw will
cut square, although they are loud and intimidating. I got some Lennox jig
saw blades from James Fuller of this list, and those are the best I have
ever used. Like Paul said, use a sharp blade and don't force the cut.
Chuck
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Truth be told, I haven't been able to find them either. Maybe James will suggest something. The thing is: these blades are not the common stamped out blades that you see most of the time. They are obviously ground on all surfaces. I have seen similar blades under other brand names. They look like little jewels.
Chuck
I remember the exchange about the Lennox blades, but I couldn't remember
blade name or who. I figured if I let this tread go some one would bring up
what I wanted to know.
The question now is, where do you get Lennox blades, I was unable to locate
them at my favorite tool stores.
HJ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Chuck
I remember the exchange about the Lennox blades, but I couldn't remember
blade name or who. I figured if I let this tread go some one would bring up
what I wanted to know.
The question now is, where do you get Lennox blades, I was unable to locate
them at my favorite tool stores.
HJ
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I remember the exchange about the Lennox blades, but I couldn't remember
blade name or who. I figured if I let this tread go some one would bring up
what I wanted to know.
The question now is, where do you get Lennox blades, I was unable to locate
them at my favorite tool stores.
HJ
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Chuck Leinweberchuck@...
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:57:34 -0500
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
That is a common problem with cheap jig saws. The answer is to get a more
expensive one, or at least a more expensive blade - get the highest priced
one you can find. On the other hand, a cheap circle or skill type saw will
cut square, although they are loud and intimidating. I got some Lennox jig
saw blades from James Fuller of this list, and those are the best I have
ever used. Like Paul said, use a sharp blade and don't force the cut.
Chuck
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/.
blade name or who. I figured if I let this tread go some one would bring up
what I wanted to know.
The question now is, where do you get Lennox blades, I was unable to locate
them at my favorite tool stores.
HJ
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Chuck Leinweberchuck@...
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2003 09:57:34 -0500
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] jig saw blades
That is a common problem with cheap jig saws. The answer is to get a more
expensive one, or at least a more expensive blade - get the highest priced
one you can find. On the other hand, a cheap circle or skill type saw will
cut square, although they are loud and intimidating. I got some Lennox jig
saw blades from James Fuller of this list, and those are the best I have
ever used. Like Paul said, use a sharp blade and don't force the cut.
Chuck
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/.
That is a common problem with cheap jig saws. The answer is to get a more expensive one, or at least a more expensive blade - get the highest priced one you can find. On the other hand, a cheap circle or skill type saw will cut square, although they are loud and intimidating. I got some Lennox jig saw blades from James Fuller of this list, and those are the best I have ever used. Like Paul said, use a sharp blade and don't force the cut.
Chuck
Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out at
the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
slower or fast?
Thanks.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Chuck
Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out at
the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
slower or fast?
Thanks.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On my saw if I try to hurry it along, the bottom end of the blade will push
out giving me a poor cut as well. I have to go very slow and not force the
blade and it'll do a decent job.
Jeff
out giving me a poor cut as well. I have to go very slow and not force the
blade and it'll do a decent job.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: jig saw blades
> Yes, but then used a longer blade with coarse teeth to clear the chips.
The
> surface was rougher but followed the line well. It's as much the saber saw
> as the blades, as long as the blades are sharp.
>
> Paul
Yes, but then used a longer blade with coarse teeth to clear the chips. The
surface was rougher but followed the line well. It's as much the saber saw
as the blades, as long as the blades are sharp.
Paul
surface was rougher but followed the line well. It's as much the saber saw
as the blades, as long as the blades are sharp.
Paul
Did you ever cut through a 2x6 or 2x4 to create a curve?
Steve
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
wrote:
Steve
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul W. Esterle" <pesterle@p...>
wrote:
> I despised jig saw until I got a good quality Bosch one. Forstraight smooth
> cuts in plywood, I use the ultra-fine cut blades which are 10tpi, Ithink. I
> run the saw along an aluminum guide jig and get perfect cuts. Goslow and
> don't force the blade.posts
>
> Paul
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "smshatz" <steveshatz@h...>
> To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:10 AM
> Subject: [bolger] jig saw blades
>
>
> > Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
> > getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out at
> > the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
> > brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
> > slower or fast?
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and<snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209,Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> >
> >
I despised jig saw until I got a good quality Bosch one. For straight smooth
cuts in plywood, I use the ultra-fine cut blades which are 10tpi, I think. I
run the saw along an aluminum guide jig and get perfect cuts. Go slow and
don't force the blade.
Paul
cuts in plywood, I use the ultra-fine cut blades which are 10tpi, I think. I
run the saw along an aluminum guide jig and get perfect cuts. Go slow and
don't force the blade.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "smshatz" <steveshatz@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2003 2:10 AM
Subject: [bolger] jig saw blades
> Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
> getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out at
> the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
> brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
> slower or fast?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
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>
Anyone have any experience cuttin 2x material with a jig saw and
getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out at
the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
slower or fast?
Thanks.
getting a straight smooth cut. My cuts always seem to bend out at
the bottom. What length and TPI blade should I try, any specific
brand/modl with a universal shank? Also, what speed do you use,
slower or fast?
Thanks.