Re: SuperPly & Jigsaw Blades - also Screw Inventory
A couple of weeks ago, when there was a break in the rain, I needed to
make a 'temporary' replacement for my main hatch cover. The material
need to be about 3/8th thick. Called one of my local sources and asked
if he had any of the GUARANTEED WATERPROOF stuff he sells me for hulls,
in that thickness; only needed a 2x3 foot piece.
When I went over, he had a 2x4 foot piece in his 'previously cut'
section. Low & Behold . . . it was marked "SuperPly" on the back. Since
I had wanted to try this stuff since I heard about it {either here, or
on another of the 'groups' I monitor}I thought of this as serendipity. I
could also finally try the jigsaw blades Jim Fuller had sent me.
Anyhow, everything worked out quite well. To see how well, take a look
at my column in this months www.duckworksmagazine.com .
One of my latest projects will be to re-furbish the RDCC's tri-hull
'tender'. From what I saw & heard, the entire sole had been cut out and
all the water saturated foam removed. They originally wanted to epoxy
down a sheet of PT ply. I suggested that it would be better {and look a
HELL of a lot NICER} to install a White Oak 'cleat' around the perimeter
of the opening, and attach the old sole to that. They had already
recognized that there would also have to be floor frames installed.
Square Drive SS Pan Head screws from McFeeley's are my first choice, but
NOT CHEAP in the sizes needed. Phillips, Round Head SELF TAPPING from
Jamestown are much cheaper and available in the exact lengths needed. I
listed BOTH as 'alternate choices' for the Club to make. In this
application, a 1/16in 'layer' of fiberglass/gelcoat 'decking' will be
attached to a thicker piece of wood and drilling pilot holes is a given.
By the same token, I have a BUCKET of SS 'wood screws' I bought at a
'Marine Store' tent sale. They are almost all of the 'thread to the
head' variety, and I haven't had any problems. Actually, a great many
screws are of this type in the sizes under 1inch, or so. With screws IN
GENERAL there has ALWAYS been a problem with 'pulling snug' two pieces
of material where the 'join line' is bisected by the threads. The
'two-diameter' pilot hole is the 'perfect' solution. 'Chamfering' the
exit hole on the top piece is a 'quick-fix' solution {it gives room for
the 'pulled fibers'}. I view it as a matter of balance between economics
and the "PERFECT" product. One time I WANTED Marine Bronze 'hanger
bolts' - only needed 8 of them. When I couldn't find them, I MADE them
from some #14 wood screws. Not 'absolutely perfect' . . . but only I
know that.
Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
make a 'temporary' replacement for my main hatch cover. The material
need to be about 3/8th thick. Called one of my local sources and asked
if he had any of the GUARANTEED WATERPROOF stuff he sells me for hulls,
in that thickness; only needed a 2x3 foot piece.
When I went over, he had a 2x4 foot piece in his 'previously cut'
section. Low & Behold . . . it was marked "SuperPly" on the back. Since
I had wanted to try this stuff since I heard about it {either here, or
on another of the 'groups' I monitor}I thought of this as serendipity. I
could also finally try the jigsaw blades Jim Fuller had sent me.
Anyhow, everything worked out quite well. To see how well, take a look
at my column in this months www.duckworksmagazine.com .
One of my latest projects will be to re-furbish the RDCC's tri-hull
'tender'. From what I saw & heard, the entire sole had been cut out and
all the water saturated foam removed. They originally wanted to epoxy
down a sheet of PT ply. I suggested that it would be better {and look a
HELL of a lot NICER} to install a White Oak 'cleat' around the perimeter
of the opening, and attach the old sole to that. They had already
recognized that there would also have to be floor frames installed.
Square Drive SS Pan Head screws from McFeeley's are my first choice, but
NOT CHEAP in the sizes needed. Phillips, Round Head SELF TAPPING from
Jamestown are much cheaper and available in the exact lengths needed. I
listed BOTH as 'alternate choices' for the Club to make. In this
application, a 1/16in 'layer' of fiberglass/gelcoat 'decking' will be
attached to a thicker piece of wood and drilling pilot holes is a given.
By the same token, I have a BUCKET of SS 'wood screws' I bought at a
'Marine Store' tent sale. They are almost all of the 'thread to the
head' variety, and I haven't had any problems. Actually, a great many
screws are of this type in the sizes under 1inch, or so. With screws IN
GENERAL there has ALWAYS been a problem with 'pulling snug' two pieces
of material where the 'join line' is bisected by the threads. The
'two-diameter' pilot hole is the 'perfect' solution. 'Chamfering' the
exit hole on the top piece is a 'quick-fix' solution {it gives room for
the 'pulled fibers'}. I view it as a matter of balance between economics
and the "PERFECT" product. One time I WANTED Marine Bronze 'hanger
bolts' - only needed 8 of them. When I couldn't find them, I MADE them
from some #14 wood screws. Not 'absolutely perfect' . . . but only I
know that.
Regards,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
> Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2003 12:32:46 -0700( Small bits could be
> From: "Mark A." <marka@...>
> Subject: Re: Superply Source
>
> John,
>
> Your A side looks pretty nice; the rest is pretty scary for a boat!
> worthwhile. )Lumber.
> BTW Here In Oregon I'm told to look for it at Lumbermen's or Parr
>Brown
> Thanks,
> Mark
>
>jhkohnen@...wrote:
> >
> > I picked up a couple sheets of factory second Superply at Keith
> > Bargain Shed year or more ago. Here are a few photo's of the "3/8inch"
> > product. Remember that this is part of a reject sheet, but givessome idea
> > of the stuff:
> >
> >http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MessaboutW/files/Temp/SuperPly/