Re: [bolger] Not aluminum paint
Titanium dioxide, a white powder, is sometimes usd as a sunscreen, mixed into
a lotion or cream for use on human skin. It stops UV-A and UV-B rays. It is
also a common paint ingredient and no doubt has a similar effect there.
Despite its exotic-sounding name, it's not particularly expensive. I suppose it
could be mixed into epoxy to protect it from the sun.
Howard
In a message dated 6/19/2003 10:24:18 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
jamessloan@...writes:
a lotion or cream for use on human skin. It stops UV-A and UV-B rays. It is
also a common paint ingredient and no doubt has a similar effect there.
Despite its exotic-sounding name, it's not particularly expensive. I suppose it
could be mixed into epoxy to protect it from the sun.
Howard
In a message dated 6/19/2003 10:24:18 AM E. Australia Standard Time,
jamessloan@...writes:
> Of course you're right on the long vs. short reflectivity. I was looking at[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> the aluminum powder more for its UV protection (as West advertises...in a
> limited fashion) since the boat I'm currently working on has an open cockpit &
> no cabin. I never really considered how cabin interior heat buildup might
> increase or decrease. I might actually get the same, or better, UV protection
> from one of the paint suppliers "barrier coatings". On the other hand, the
> extra aluminum might help them find me on radar when I decide to just sail
> away.......
>
Howdy
shipping. Supposedly it's a 1 to 1 mix, a gallon of the ceramic to a
gallon of paint. That can add up after a while :) (or maybe I'm just a
cheapskate)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----Which is more expensive? The ceramic ones are about $18/gallon after
> Subject: RE: [bolger] Not aluminum paint
>
> Well, they'd be heavier than microballoons, I think, but not
> significantly.
shipping. Supposedly it's a 1 to 1 mix, a gallon of the ceramic to a
gallon of paint. That can add up after a while :) (or maybe I'm just a
cheapskate)
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
>Do you suppose these have any strength? That is, Could we use them as weWell, they'd be heavier than microballoons, I think, but not significantly.
>use microbaloons
>in epoxy mix for fairing or in joints?
Remember that -- strictly speaking -- microballoons are not for
joints, only for fairing. I think ceramic or glass spheres could be
used for either as they're stronger.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
I wondered about that myself, but I really can't say. Sounds like a
question for the tech people at WEST System.
james fuller wrote:
question for the tech people at WEST System.
james fuller wrote:
>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Do you suppose these have any strength? That is, Could we use them as we
> use microbaloons
> in epoxy mix for fairing or in joints?
>
> James Fuller
>
>
>
>
> Yes, also look here;
>
> >http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html
>
>
> Rick
>
> james fuller wrote:
>
> >
> > Is this what we are talking about?
> >
> >http://www.koolcoat.com/index.html
> >
> > James Fuller
> >
> > -
Hi,
Do you suppose these have any strength? That is, Could we use them as we
use microbaloons
in epoxy mix for fairing or in joints?
James Fuller
-----Original Message-----
From: sctree [mailto:sctree@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 9:42 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Not aluminum paint
Yes, also look here;
james fuller wrote:
91:HM/A=1564415/R=0/SIG=11t6t7kdo/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60164
784&partid=3170658>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Do you suppose these have any strength? That is, Could we use them as we
use microbaloons
in epoxy mix for fairing or in joints?
James Fuller
-----Original Message-----
From: sctree [mailto:sctree@...]
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2003 9:42 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Not aluminum paint
Yes, also look here;
>http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.htmlRick
james fuller wrote:
><http://rd.yahoo.com/M=255131.3358918.4715059.3294649/D=egroupweb/S=17050657
> Is this what we are talking about?
>
>http://www.koolcoat.com/index.html
>
> James Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sctree [mailto:sctree@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:48 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Not aluminum paint
>
>
> James,
>
> West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
> research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
> not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
> will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
> radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
> we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
> sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
> will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
> benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
> like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
> infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
>
> Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
> costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
> It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
> costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
>
> Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
> also called "emissivity".
> Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
> and see what you find.
>
> Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
>
>
>
> James W. Sloan wrote:
>
> > Just a thought...West Systems offers an aluminum powder (420) as an
> > epoxy additive for UV reduction. Anyone know if the other epoxy
> > sources have something similar?
> >
> > Living and boating in hot & muggy coastal Georgia, I'm contemplating a
> > coat of epoxy with this stuff in it before painting. Any thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks...James
> > .
> > Is there a paint with a high aluminum content?
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> > click here
> >
>
> 91:HM/A=1627012/R=0/SIG=111br2r2b/*http://www.boatcoversdirect.com><http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17050657
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>
91:HM/A=1564415/R=0/SIG=11t6t7kdo/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60164
784&partid=3170658>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Yes, also look here;
james fuller wrote:
>http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.htmlRick
james fuller wrote:
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> Is this what we are talking about?
>
>http://www.koolcoat.com/index.html
>
> James Fuller
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: sctree [mailto:sctree@...]
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:48 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Not aluminum paint
>
>
> James,
>
> West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
> research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
> not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
> will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
> radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
> we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
> sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
> will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
> benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
> like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
> infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
>
> Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
> costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
> It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
> costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
>
> Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
> also called "emissivity".
> Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
> and see what you find.
>
> Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
>
>
>
> James W. Sloan wrote:
>
> > Just a thought...West Systems offers an aluminum powder (420) as an
> > epoxy additive for UV reduction. Anyone know if the other epoxy
> > sources have something similar?
> >
> > Living and boating in hot & muggy coastal Georgia, I'm contemplating a
> > coat of epoxy with this stuff in it before painting. Any thoughts?
> >
> > Thanks...James
> > .
> > Is there a paint with a high aluminum content?
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> > ADVERTISEMENT
> > click here
> >
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=255131.3358918.4715059.3294649/D=egroupweb/S=17050657
> 91:HM/A=1627012/R=0/SIG=111br2r2b/*http://www.boatcoversdirect.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > Bolger rules!!!
> > - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> > - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> > - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> > - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> > 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> > - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> > - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
> >
> > Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> > <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1564415/R=0/SIG=11t6t7kdo/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60164784&partid=3170658>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
James,
Ididn't realize you were building an open boat, so your needs are
different. Are you looking to protect the epoxy and wood below this
coating from damage caused by UV? If so, I'd guess the aluminum might be
the best choice. Although, I have some plywood test pieces sitting on my
roof (for 9 years now, here in the CA sun) that was coated with WEST
epoxy with graphite powder mixed into the epoxy. As it's still in great
shape you might look into that.... I have two boats using this
graphite/epoxy mix on their bottoms, but was worried about the UV
degradation... so far so good. Problem is this stuff is black, or dark
gray if you sand it at all. Never have tried to paint over it..... and
can't remember what the WEST people said about painting over it....
And for anyone following this barrier paint theme, I found the ceramic
additive for $7 a pound (enough for a gallon of paint), but for $12 you
can get the ceramic spheres with the hollow center "degassed",
apparently the tiny vacuum reduces heat transfer even more. Claims vary,
but some say as much as 6 or 8 degrees less heat gain using the ceramic
additive to plain old paint....
Still looking into it.
Rick
James W. Sloan wrote:
Ididn't realize you were building an open boat, so your needs are
different. Are you looking to protect the epoxy and wood below this
coating from damage caused by UV? If so, I'd guess the aluminum might be
the best choice. Although, I have some plywood test pieces sitting on my
roof (for 9 years now, here in the CA sun) that was coated with WEST
epoxy with graphite powder mixed into the epoxy. As it's still in great
shape you might look into that.... I have two boats using this
graphite/epoxy mix on their bottoms, but was worried about the UV
degradation... so far so good. Problem is this stuff is black, or dark
gray if you sand it at all. Never have tried to paint over it..... and
can't remember what the WEST people said about painting over it....
And for anyone following this barrier paint theme, I found the ceramic
additive for $7 a pound (enough for a gallon of paint), but for $12 you
can get the ceramic spheres with the hollow center "degassed",
apparently the tiny vacuum reduces heat transfer even more. Claims vary,
but some say as much as 6 or 8 degrees less heat gain using the ceramic
additive to plain old paint....
Still looking into it.
Rick
James W. Sloan wrote:
> Of course you're right on the long vs. short reflectivity. I was[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> looking at the aluminum powder more for its UV protection (as West
> advertises...in a limited fashion) since the boat I'm currently
> working on has an open cockpit & no cabin. I never really considered
> how cabin interior heat buildup might increase or decrease. I might
> actually get the same, or better, UV protection from one of the paint
> suppliers "barrier coatings". On the other hand, the extra aluminum
> might help them find me on radar when I decide to just sail away.......
>
> James
> West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
> research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
> not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
> will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
> radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
> we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
> sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
> will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
> benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
> like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
> infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
>
> Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
> costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
> It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
> costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
>
> Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
> also called "emissivity".
> Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
> and see what you find.
>
> Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> Click Here!
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=244522.3313099.4604523.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1595056/R=0/SIG=124fv1soh/*http://ashnin.com/clk/muryutaitakenattogyo?YH=3313099&yhad=1595056>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
Of course you're right on the long vs. short reflectivity. I was looking at the aluminum powder more for its UV protection (as West advertises...in a limited fashion) since the boat I'm currently working on has an open cockpit & no cabin. I never really considered how cabin interior heat buildup might increase or decrease. I might actually get the same, or better, UV protection from one of the paint suppliers "barrier coatings". On the other hand, the extra aluminum might help them find me on radar when I decide to just sail away.......
James
West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
also called "emissivity".
Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
and see what you find.
Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
James
West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
also called "emissivity".
Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
and see what you find.
Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Is this what we are talking about?
http://www.koolcoat.com/index.html
James Fuller
-----Original Message-----
From: sctree [mailto:sctree@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:48 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Not aluminum paint
James,
West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
also called "emissivity".
Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
and see what you find.
Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
James W. Sloan wrote:
91:HM/A=1627012/R=0/SIG=111br2r2b/*http://www.boatcoversdirect.com>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
http://www.koolcoat.com/index.html
James Fuller
-----Original Message-----
From: sctree [mailto:sctree@...]
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2003 7:48 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Not aluminum paint
James,
West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
also called "emissivity".
Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
and see what you find.
Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
James W. Sloan wrote:
> Just a thought...West Systems offers an aluminum powder (420) as an<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=255131.3358918.4715059.3294649/D=egroupweb/S=17050657
> epoxy additive for UV reduction. Anyone know if the other epoxy
> sources have something similar?
>
> Living and boating in hot & muggy coastal Georgia, I'm contemplating a
> coat of epoxy with this stuff in it before painting. Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks...James
> .
> Is there a paint with a high aluminum content?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> click here
>
91:HM/A=1627012/R=0/SIG=111br2r2b/*http://www.boatcoversdirect.com>
>[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
James,
West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
also called "emissivity".
Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
and see what you find.
Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
James W. Sloan wrote:
West's 420 is what got me thinking about this. My son has done some
research for me since my earlier post and he says no to aluminum. (but
not due to Peter's concerns.) If I understand it correctly, aluminum
will "bounce" back the radiation (and it's the long range, infrared
radiation that will penetrate right through the plywood cabintop that
we're combating here, not UV) however aluminum also acts as a good heat
sink, holding any heat from other sources, (visible spectrum and UV) and
will transfer it through conduction, so it sort of cancels out it's
benefit. What works better is ceramic. Small hollow spheres of ceramic,
like in the Space Shuttle tiles. For several reasons it reflects the
infrared but doesn't hold and heat.
Simple enough to use. You can add a pound of it (looks like talc, and
costs about $20) to a gallon of almost any of your favorite paint.....
It's used in paint on buildings and on roofs, claims to cut cooling
costs 15%. Not sure how it will effect heat gain on a sailboat.....
Again, what I think I'm looking for is "infrared radiation reflectivity"
also called "emissivity".
Do a search on "ceramic paint", "insulating paint" or "barrier paint"
and see what you find.
Rick, in the ongoing pursuit of a cool cabin......
James W. Sloan wrote:
> Just a thought...West Systems offers an aluminum powder (420) as an[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> epoxy additive for UV reduction. Anyone know if the other epoxy
> sources have something similar?
>
> Living and boating in hot & muggy coastal Georgia, I'm contemplating a
> coat of epoxy with this stuff in it before painting. Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks...James
> .
> Is there a paint with a high aluminum content?
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> click here
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=255131.3358918.4715059.3294649/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1627012/R=0/SIG=111br2r2b/*http://www.boatcoversdirect.com>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.