Re: Houseboat #481 Windows (2003 edition)
It's easy for me to say, but it seems to me if you could get, on
randomly chosen occasions, 10 or 20 boat owners to sleep, fully clothed,
in their boats with video cameras, bright lights, and cell phones handy,
and each with some kind of noisemaker to rouse the others, you might put
a good scare into these guys and maybe even provide good enough
evidence to get them in some real trouble. Maybe even spray them with
flourescent paint (don't detain them). However, I guess that last might
not be legally permissible. Maybe a Super Soaker filled with cheap perfume?
randomly chosen occasions, 10 or 20 boat owners to sleep, fully clothed,
in their boats with video cameras, bright lights, and cell phones handy,
and each with some kind of noisemaker to rouse the others, you might put
a good scare into these guys and maybe even provide good enough
evidence to get them in some real trouble. Maybe even spray them with
flourescent paint (don't detain them). However, I guess that last might
not be legally permissible. Maybe a Super Soaker filled with cheap perfume?
>Peter Lenihan wrote[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>Hi Bruce,
> It's all good but for the glass......at least for my situation.I
>really do need some shatterproof stuff(Lexan) on WINDERMERE. Just to
>give you a notion of how serious the rock throwing situation is,at
>the boat yard ALONE last year over 40 boats had their windows smashed
>and alot of them subsequently vandalized once the bastards saw how
>easy it was to gain access. I really would like to not be part of
>that statistical grouping of boaters.
> But I'm still a ways off having to seriously address my
>windows....so much to be done before that and hopefully the entire
>summer will not become one record breaking period of incredible
>heat :-(
>
>
>ArrrGh Matey!
>
>Peter Lenihan
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
Peter, Why not leave the instalation fo windows til the end, when
you
Bolger does say to retard the cutting out of the window openings
until things are laid out inside the cabin.Also,the window layout on
the plans,I believe,are intended as suggestive. Thus I will be
looking at many options before any actual cutting.Beyond that, just
based on my building pace, I do not think it would be prudent to cut
out the openings only to have them languishing throughout the winter
months. Instead, I hope to actually be able to effect some interior
work dutring the course of the winter(once the insulation is up) and
the lack of window openings will help keep what precious little heat
I can generate inside.
Every once in a while, I doodle various window arrangements and
imagine shutters,built strong enough to actually be useful.....after
that,Pesky imagines little flower boxes hanging off the window ledge
in which a nice range of fine herbs can be raised for all the
gastronomic delights I expect to see prepared in the kitchen( I
know "galley" is the better word,but this galley really does look
like a kitchen!).
The best part of big boat construction is that there are so
many things to do,and at my snails pace,lots of time to do them, that
in the end, a good solution has time to percolate up to the surface.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,about to head out to check his now scarfed and glued
chine logs and maybe even install them :-) if the weather
cooperates,other then that,lots of little things to prepare before
the bottom is ready to get flipped back on its jig,along the banks of
the St.Lawrence Seaway...............
wrote:
Peter, Why not leave the instalation fo windows til the end, when
you
> can move the beautiful Windemere to a marina with better security?a
> Then go standard size and save enough in time and money to pay for
> couple of years in the swankier club?your
>
> Bruce Hector
>http://www.brucesboats.com
> And make and apply plywood stone shields over the glass when in
> usual unsavory haunts?Bruce,
Bolger does say to retard the cutting out of the window openings
until things are laid out inside the cabin.Also,the window layout on
the plans,I believe,are intended as suggestive. Thus I will be
looking at many options before any actual cutting.Beyond that, just
based on my building pace, I do not think it would be prudent to cut
out the openings only to have them languishing throughout the winter
months. Instead, I hope to actually be able to effect some interior
work dutring the course of the winter(once the insulation is up) and
the lack of window openings will help keep what precious little heat
I can generate inside.
Every once in a while, I doodle various window arrangements and
imagine shutters,built strong enough to actually be useful.....after
that,Pesky imagines little flower boxes hanging off the window ledge
in which a nice range of fine herbs can be raised for all the
gastronomic delights I expect to see prepared in the kitchen( I
know "galley" is the better word,but this galley really does look
like a kitchen!).
The best part of big boat construction is that there are so
many things to do,and at my snails pace,lots of time to do them, that
in the end, a good solution has time to percolate up to the surface.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,about to head out to check his now scarfed and glued
chine logs and maybe even install them :-) if the weather
cooperates,other then that,lots of little things to prepare before
the bottom is ready to get flipped back on its jig,along the banks of
the St.Lawrence Seaway...............
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <wrote:
It's all good but for the glass......at least for my situation. I >
really do need some shatterproof stuff(Lexan) on WINDERMERE.
Peter, Why not leave the instalation fo windows til the end, when you
can move the beautiful Windemere to a marina with better security?
Then go standard size and save enough in time and money to pay for a
couple of years in the swankier club?
Bruce Hector
http://www.brucesboats.com
And make and apply plywood stone shields over the glass when in your
usual unsavory haunts?
> It's all good but for the glass......at least for mysituation.I
> really do need some shatterproof stuff(Lexan) on WINDERMERE. Justto
> give you a notion of how serious the rock throwing situation is,atsmashed
> the boat yard ALONE last year over 40 boats had their windows
> and alot of them subsequently vandalizedMaybe you need to make some plywood or expanded metal panels that
attach onto the outside when the boat is not in use. Like storm
shutters. Make them easy to handle and leave them ashore with your
vehicle when you go out. One act of vandalism could easily cost more
than "burglar bars." Plywood panel would also protect the interior
from sun exposure and help it last longer.
Charles
> Instead of hinges at the top of the window, ISam, this is a fine idea!
>drilled two 3/8" holes in the plexiglas ssheets at the
>top corners, and corresponding holes in the cabin side
>under the owerhead. I then just ran shock cord from
>the outside, through cabin side, the plexi, back
>through the plexi and out the cabin side. Held in
>place with stop knots, this bungee makes an ideal
>hinge--rattle free, cheap and it keeps pressure on the
>rubber channel to keep a good seal.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
The Topaz windows are to be attached by hinge to the
side just under the overhead, and fold in and up.
This gives you full ventilation for the opening, and
allows screens. There is a "drip edge" attached to
the outside of the window designed to stick out over,
and just above, the sill, which channels water flowing
down the pane out and away from the sill. The window
rests on automotive rubber channel all around the
frame, and is designed to be pulled tight with
progressive-tightening window locks, two per window.
This hinge and window lock design seemed to require
too much real carpentry for my tastes (read
abilities), and this is my modification, which has
worked well. It is partly form a suggestion I got
from someone in the group, but unfortunately, I forget
who. Instead of hinges at the top of the window, I
drilled two 3/8" holes in the plexiglas ssheets at the
top corners, and corresponding holes in the cabin side
under the owerhead. I then just ran shock cord from
the outside, through cabin side, the plexi, back
through the plexi and out the cabin side. Held in
place with stop knots, this bungee makes an ideal
hinge--rattle free, cheap and it keeps pressure on the
rubber channel to keep a good seal. On the bottom, I
just put two screw eyes into the drip edge, sticking
down, so that the stick over the edge of the sill and
hold the widow in place against the rubber channel at
the bottom. I didn't have to use screw eyes, could
have been a piece of dowel or anything to stick down
out of the drp edge and cacth on the sill. To fasten
the windows, I swing them down, lift slightly to let
the screw eyes clear the sill (the bungee-hinge allows
this), then pull the window down a little to seat the
screw eyes against the cabin side beyond the sill.
This design reduces the hardware costs per window to a
few cents, and is weather tight. The windows fold up
under the overhead, and are held in place with another
piece of shock cord. Sam
__________________________________
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side just under the overhead, and fold in and up.
This gives you full ventilation for the opening, and
allows screens. There is a "drip edge" attached to
the outside of the window designed to stick out over,
and just above, the sill, which channels water flowing
down the pane out and away from the sill. The window
rests on automotive rubber channel all around the
frame, and is designed to be pulled tight with
progressive-tightening window locks, two per window.
This hinge and window lock design seemed to require
too much real carpentry for my tastes (read
abilities), and this is my modification, which has
worked well. It is partly form a suggestion I got
from someone in the group, but unfortunately, I forget
who. Instead of hinges at the top of the window, I
drilled two 3/8" holes in the plexiglas ssheets at the
top corners, and corresponding holes in the cabin side
under the owerhead. I then just ran shock cord from
the outside, through cabin side, the plexi, back
through the plexi and out the cabin side. Held in
place with stop knots, this bungee makes an ideal
hinge--rattle free, cheap and it keeps pressure on the
rubber channel to keep a good seal. On the bottom, I
just put two screw eyes into the drip edge, sticking
down, so that the stick over the edge of the sill and
hold the widow in place against the rubber channel at
the bottom. I didn't have to use screw eyes, could
have been a piece of dowel or anything to stick down
out of the drp edge and cacth on the sill. To fasten
the windows, I swing them down, lift slightly to let
the screw eyes clear the sill (the bungee-hinge allows
this), then pull the window down a little to seat the
screw eyes against the cabin side beyond the sill.
This design reduces the hardware costs per window to a
few cents, and is weather tight. The windows fold up
under the overhead, and are held in place with another
piece of shock cord. Sam
__________________________________
Do you Yahoo!?
SBC Yahoo! DSL - Now only $29.95 per month!
http://sbc.yahoo.com
Hmmm... here's a chance for Bolger's degree in history, his artistic touch
and a little Libertarianism to combine: convert Windermere's vulnerable
windows into a casemate system similar to a river-class ironclad
(Confederate ironclads seemed better at this). True, the view might suffer,
but you'll laugh at slings and arrows.
David "Damn the torpedoes!" Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 9:07 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Houseboat #481 Windows (2003 edition)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
It's all good but for the glass......at least for my situation.I
really do need some shatterproof stuff(Lexan) on WINDERMERE. Just to
give you a notion of how serious the rock throwing situation is,at
the boat yard ALONE last year over 40 boats had their windows smashed
and alot of them subsequently vandalized once the bastards saw how
easy it was to gain access. I really would like to not be part of
that statistical grouping of boaters.
But I'm still a ways off having to seriously address my
windows....so much to be done before that and hopefully the entire
summer will not become one record breaking period of incredible
heat :-(
ArrrGh Matey!
Peter Lenihan
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
and a little Libertarianism to combine: convert Windermere's vulnerable
windows into a casemate system similar to a river-class ironclad
(Confederate ironclads seemed better at this). True, the view might suffer,
but you'll laugh at slings and arrows.
David "Damn the torpedoes!" Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Lenihan [mailto:ellengaest@...]
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2003 9:07 AM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Houseboat #481 Windows (2003 edition)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
>The
> I'd go so far to suggest the same for consideration on Windemere.
> paintable poly-something double panes with screens are available inHi Bruce,
> dozens of styles, are watertight (homeowners won't accept leaky
> windows either) and are made to tolerances far beyond my humble
> carpentry skills.
>
> Bruce Hector
> http:www.brucesboats.com
It's all good but for the glass......at least for my situation.I
really do need some shatterproof stuff(Lexan) on WINDERMERE. Just to
give you a notion of how serious the rock throwing situation is,at
the boat yard ALONE last year over 40 boats had their windows smashed
and alot of them subsequently vandalized once the bastards saw how
easy it was to gain access. I really would like to not be part of
that statistical grouping of boaters.
But I'm still a ways off having to seriously address my
windows....so much to be done before that and hopefully the entire
summer will not become one record breaking period of incredible
heat :-(
ArrrGh Matey!
Peter Lenihan
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=256608.3471506.4759744.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=17050657
91:HM/A=1633633/R=0/SIG=11hcb8ehs/*http://ads.x10.com/?bHlhaG9vY2I0LmRhd=RND
|yahoo> click here
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=256608.3471506.4759744.1261774/D=egroupmai
l/S=:HM/A=1633633/rand=386462370>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
It's all good but for the glass......at least for my situation.I
really do need some shatterproof stuff(Lexan) on WINDERMERE. Just to
give you a notion of how serious the rock throwing situation is,at
the boat yard ALONE last year over 40 boats had their windows smashed
and alot of them subsequently vandalized once the bastards saw how
easy it was to gain access. I really would like to not be part of
that statistical grouping of boaters.
But I'm still a ways off having to seriously address my
windows....so much to be done before that and hopefully the entire
summer will not become one record breaking period of incredible
heat :-(
ArrrGh Matey!
Peter Lenihan
wrote:
>The
> I'd go so far to suggest the same for consideration on Windemere.
> paintable poly-something double panes with screens are available inHi Bruce,
> dozens of styles, are watertight (homeowners won't accept leaky
> windows either) and are made to tolerances far beyond my humble
> carpentry skills.
>
> Bruce Hector
> http:www.brucesboats.com
It's all good but for the glass......at least for my situation.I
really do need some shatterproof stuff(Lexan) on WINDERMERE. Just to
give you a notion of how serious the rock throwing situation is,at
the boat yard ALONE last year over 40 boats had their windows smashed
and alot of them subsequently vandalized once the bastards saw how
easy it was to gain access. I really would like to not be part of
that statistical grouping of boaters.
But I'm still a ways off having to seriously address my
windows....so much to be done before that and hopefully the entire
summer will not become one record breaking period of incredible
heat :-(
ArrrGh Matey!
Peter Lenihan
Paul,
After reading Bruces' post, that reminded me that just the other
day I did see at my local BMR(ex.Matco-Ravary) whole window units,
with screens, that are used for the fancy-dandy yard and garden shed.
They are perhaps a bit on the narrow side but would probably look
nicely scaled on your houseboat.The whole setup,ready to install,is
made out of some sort of industrial plastic and comes in white.Won't
rot,rust or need painting and was selling for $49.00 complete.
Peter Lenihan
After reading Bruces' post, that reminded me that just the other
day I did see at my local BMR(ex.Matco-Ravary) whole window units,
with screens, that are used for the fancy-dandy yard and garden shed.
They are perhaps a bit on the narrow side but would probably look
nicely scaled on your houseboat.The whole setup,ready to install,is
made out of some sort of industrial plastic and comes in white.Won't
rot,rust or need painting and was selling for $49.00 complete.
Peter Lenihan
My houseboat Adagio, an ex-commercial rental unit, has standard house
or cottage windows with screens, a stardard household aluminum screen
door at the steran and a standard household sliding door with screen
by the helm position.
Why not mosy over to your friendly Home Despot, Rona, etc. and see
what stock size of windows with screens and paintable frames are in
stock, perhaps even on sale, and fit them in?
You are NOT going to ever even come close to tipping or a knockdown
in a rockered houseboat hull, but you will want ventilation, light
and an effective anti-mosquito system.
Plus buying a common stock size means you can pick up your choice of
cheaper stock sizes of blinds, drapes or curtains too. On a houseboat
you can even fit a common household air condition for use at the
dock, or away if you add a gen set.
I'd go so far to suggest the same for consideration on Windemere. The
paintable poly-something double panes with screens are available in
dozens of styles, are watertight (homeowners won't accept leaky
windows either) and are made to tolerances far beyond my humble
carpentry skills.
Bruce Hector
http:www.brucesboats.com
or cottage windows with screens, a stardard household aluminum screen
door at the steran and a standard household sliding door with screen
by the helm position.
Why not mosy over to your friendly Home Despot, Rona, etc. and see
what stock size of windows with screens and paintable frames are in
stock, perhaps even on sale, and fit them in?
You are NOT going to ever even come close to tipping or a knockdown
in a rockered houseboat hull, but you will want ventilation, light
and an effective anti-mosquito system.
Plus buying a common stock size means you can pick up your choice of
cheaper stock sizes of blinds, drapes or curtains too. On a houseboat
you can even fit a common household air condition for use at the
dock, or away if you add a gen set.
I'd go so far to suggest the same for consideration on Windemere. The
paintable poly-something double panes with screens are available in
dozens of styles, are watertight (homeowners won't accept leaky
windows either) and are made to tolerances far beyond my humble
carpentry skills.
Bruce Hector
http:www.brucesboats.com
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Paul" <bys@c...> wrote:
I have a question for Peter and anyone else who would
> like to contribute to a solution.
> The plans for the Houseboat from Bolger show very little detail for
> windows, and certainly not enough for me to have any confidence at
all
> to proceed
Hi Paul,
Glad to hear that you will be in Kingston.....a bonus would be to
have no.481 in tow :-)
As to the windows;relatively little detailed info is provided for
the windows on WINDERMERE other then the suggestion that they be done
like on CHAMPLAIN.That is,in the style of old street car windows(I'm
too young to remember those!) which apparently slid vertically in a
water tight,copper clad box or sleeve.If you can wait, Hans Van Pelt,
of CHAMPLAIN fame, will be at the messabout with his CHAMPLAIN.He may
have the perfect solution. Mr.Bruce,Le Baron de Kingston, may also
have contact info for Hans Van Pelt in case the boatbuilding takes
off like a house on fire and you just can't wait :-)
So far, it is my"plan" to have only the forward facing windows
actually opening with the rest of them fixed.My thinking on this is
that since I have two large hatches in the roof,heat will be able to
escape,most boats will lay nose to the wind when at anchor so side
opening windows won't help much and since WINDERMERE will be totally
insullated,my side windows may be doubled.That is,an outside and an
inside pane seperated by about an inch of dead air space.
Also,I am leaning toward polycarbonates instead of glass.A big
part of this is due to security concerns.I'd much rather put up with
changing the polycarbonates every 5 to 10 years once they have become
too"burnt" from exposure then to replace a pane of glass every second
weekend or so.We seem to have a surprising number of rock throwing
athletes around these parts and a boat like WINDERMERE,with all that
tempting window area,not too mention stand-out-in-any-crowd looks,
will soon become evry rock throwers favorite weekend target.The
polycarbonate will also be tinted to lower the heat gain but,more
importantly,to not allow the rock throwers to see me reachng for my
favorite high powered slingshot.............
Sorry if this does not give you a definitive solution but
hopefully will inspire ideas for your own set-up.
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan, about to face another day in the outdoor pizza oven of
the boat yard along the St.Lawrence Seaway...........
Peter, in answer to the Kingston messabout question, I plan to attend
and if trailer arrangements can be made, I could bring what is done of
the Houseboat. I have a question for Peter and anyone else who would
like to contribute to a solution.
The plans for the Houseboat from Bolger show very little detail for
windows, and certainly not enough for me to have any confidence at all
to proceed. They will sit on a sill than can be any width so the
possibilities are this boat coud have functional and effective
windows. In a discussion tonight with John Bartlett he suggested that
the Champlain and probably the Windemere have a good design that is
watertight, don?t rattle, are easy to use and in my case hopefully
have screens that do not impede the function of the window. Also
having a touch of elegance to the box-like or shanteuse style of #481
would be a bonus.
Could you Peter, and others, give me some guidance if possible on the
detail of the window arrangement and your opinion on how to adapt to
my situation. The construction allows for 3 or 4 36? x 36? holes on
either side and the possibility of a few smaller windows lower to
allow a view whilst in the kip. (In Canada that means a bed or rack)
Thanks and anyone else who would like to add to the windows
discussion (I hope Bill Gates is on line and can contribute to windows
481) I would be grateful.
Paul McLellan who just spent 4 days staging and doing "flat work" in
preparation for the next bout of construction
and if trailer arrangements can be made, I could bring what is done of
the Houseboat. I have a question for Peter and anyone else who would
like to contribute to a solution.
The plans for the Houseboat from Bolger show very little detail for
windows, and certainly not enough for me to have any confidence at all
to proceed. They will sit on a sill than can be any width so the
possibilities are this boat coud have functional and effective
windows. In a discussion tonight with John Bartlett he suggested that
the Champlain and probably the Windemere have a good design that is
watertight, don?t rattle, are easy to use and in my case hopefully
have screens that do not impede the function of the window. Also
having a touch of elegance to the box-like or shanteuse style of #481
would be a bonus.
Could you Peter, and others, give me some guidance if possible on the
detail of the window arrangement and your opinion on how to adapt to
my situation. The construction allows for 3 or 4 36? x 36? holes on
either side and the possibility of a few smaller windows lower to
allow a view whilst in the kip. (In Canada that means a bed or rack)
Thanks and anyone else who would like to add to the windows
discussion (I hope Bill Gates is on line and can contribute to windows
481) I would be grateful.
Paul McLellan who just spent 4 days staging and doing "flat work" in
preparation for the next bout of construction