Re: Help - West Sys Epoxy Question...
I suspect the temperature of the wood went up a bit after you applied
the epoxy so some of the air inside it had to get out. You can either
work when temp is dropping, warm up the wood beforehand, or, if
ventilation is good and you have a sense of restraint, warm up the wood
with a heat gun just after putting the epoxy on. This thins the epoxy so
it soaks in better, helps it start to set faster, gets the extra air
out, and then sucks in a bit more epoxy than it might otherwise. Or at
least that's what it seemed like to me when I tried.
the epoxy so some of the air inside it had to get out. You can either
work when temp is dropping, warm up the wood beforehand, or, if
ventilation is good and you have a sense of restraint, warm up the wood
with a heat gun just after putting the epoxy on. This thins the epoxy so
it soaks in better, helps it start to set faster, gets the extra air
out, and then sucks in a bit more epoxy than it might otherwise. Or at
least that's what it seemed like to me when I tried.
>MeSteve in Seattle wrote:
>I'm a bit frustrated with my results today.
>
>I was simply trying to coat a new oak tiller I fabricated with
>105/207. I mixed them 3.5:1 just as instructed, but I got a "bunch
>of little bubbles" about 5 hrs after application. They are very thin
>film bubbles - the pop - and the results don't look too good.
>
>The temperature was at least 80F, in the shade, no wind.
>
>This isn't the first time I've had this problem. Is it the oak?
>
>Steve in Seattle
>
You can coat Oak with some success. I've done a lot of red oak on the Wyo
and a lot more to do yet. Red Oak is a hard wood but not necessarily dense
in the sense that it can really wick up water. Try blowing through a piece
of oak with one end in a water glass. You can actually get it to make
bubbles. With this unique feature of red oak, it's safe to say it can hold a
lot of air or water so as it heats during the day the air expands and
bubbles out through your epoxy. In fact all woods will do this as I've seen
it in plywood, pine, fir, etc.
Long story short is that for the best results, apply epoxy at night as it's
cooling down so it can be drawn into the wood. As stated below, I also thin
mine with alcohol to a watery consistency but no more than 10%. This
penetrates nicely.
I have no problems using Red Oak on a boat for trim pieces. Saturated in
epoxy and lightly sanded so as not to expose bare wood, then varnish or
paint. With average maintenance it should last as long as the boat floats.
I'd think twice about Red Oak as a structural component on a boat if not
epoxy saturated and especially if it wasn't a trailered boat.
Jeff
and a lot more to do yet. Red Oak is a hard wood but not necessarily dense
in the sense that it can really wick up water. Try blowing through a piece
of oak with one end in a water glass. You can actually get it to make
bubbles. With this unique feature of red oak, it's safe to say it can hold a
lot of air or water so as it heats during the day the air expands and
bubbles out through your epoxy. In fact all woods will do this as I've seen
it in plywood, pine, fir, etc.
Long story short is that for the best results, apply epoxy at night as it's
cooling down so it can be drawn into the wood. As stated below, I also thin
mine with alcohol to a watery consistency but no more than 10%. This
penetrates nicely.
I have no problems using Red Oak on a boat for trim pieces. Saturated in
epoxy and lightly sanded so as not to expose bare wood, then varnish or
paint. With average maintenance it should last as long as the boat floats.
I'd think twice about Red Oak as a structural component on a boat if not
epoxy saturated and especially if it wasn't a trailered boat.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "Lincoln Ross" <lincolnr@...>
To: <gorsline@...>; <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Wednesday, July 23, 2003 11:01 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Help - West Sys Epoxy Question...
> I suspect the temperature of the wood went up a bit after you applied
> the epoxy so some of the air inside it had to get out. You can either
> work when temp is dropping, warm up the wood beforehand, or, if
> ventilation is good and you have a sense of restraint, warm up the wood
> with a heat gun just after putting the epoxy on. This thins the epoxy so
> it soaks in better, helps it start to set faster, gets the extra air
> out, and then sucks in a bit more epoxy than it might otherwise. Or at
> least that's what it seemed like to me when I tried.
>
In a message dated 7/23/2003 2:45:38 AM Eastern Standard Time,gorsline@...writes:
Try using your search engine to find references to epoxy outgassing. Or seek advice from the people who sold you the epoxy.
Howard
> I'm a bit frustrated with my results today.Steve,
>
> I was simply trying to coat a new oak tiller I fabricated with
> 105/207. I mixed them 3.5:1 just as instructed, but I got a "bunch
> of little bubbles" about 5 hrs after application. They are very thin
> film bubbles - the pop - and the results don't look too good.
>
> The temperature was at least 80F, in the shade, no wind.
>
> This isn't the first time I've had this problem. Is it the
> oak?
>
> Steve in Seattle
Try using your search engine to find references to epoxy outgassing. Or seek advice from the people who sold you the epoxy.
Howard
I'm a bit frustrated with my results today.
I was simply trying to coat a new oak tiller I fabricated with
105/207. I mixed them 3.5:1 just as instructed, but I got a "bunch
of little bubbles" about 5 hrs after application. They are very thin
film bubbles - the pop - and the results don't look too good.
The temperature was at least 80F, in the shade, no wind.
This isn't the first time I've had this problem. Is it the oak?
Steve in Seattle
I was simply trying to coat a new oak tiller I fabricated with
105/207. I mixed them 3.5:1 just as instructed, but I got a "bunch
of little bubbles" about 5 hrs after application. They are very thin
film bubbles - the pop - and the results don't look too good.
The temperature was at least 80F, in the shade, no wind.
This isn't the first time I've had this problem. Is it the oak?
Steve in Seattle