Re: Thanks for Direction - West Sys Epoxy Question...

Hi Steve,
You have already "primed" your tiller with epoxy. Scrub it down and
sand off the bubbles and then recoat. Oak does not take epoxy very
well but you have already committed yourself. Next time use mohagany
or fir or pine or anything else. I don't know where I got the
information about oak and epoxy but I can attest to its accuracy from
experience. Once you are done keep an eye on it. Don't let bare spot
be unrepaired.
Bob Chamberland


--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Steve in Seattle" <gorsline@e...> wrote:
> Thanks Guys.
>
> Now I'll just have to try it again. There were WAY too many of these
> little bubbles - but at least it's "textured".
>
> Steve in Seattle
Thanks Guys.

Now I'll just have to try it again. There were WAY too many of these
little bubbles - but at least it's "textured".

Steve in Seattle
What is going on here is that the cell structure of the wood is
expelling air as it heats up. This air travels up through your fresh
coat of epoxy and forms the little annoying bubbles. One way to do
this where you are is to heat the wood hotter than the outside air,
then coat and let it cool. This will have the epoxy travel into the
wood as the air in the wood pulls the epoxy in. This is not as
extreme in a wood such as oak (white oak I hope) but is really
apparent in spruce, fir, and cedar.

Good luck,
David Jost
"AS 29?, who'd of thought a boat that large would be in my future?"
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Dietmar Schielke"
<Dietmar.Schielke@d...> wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
> I have seen this on differend kinds of wood. I think its air/gas
enclosed
> in the wood. If the wood gets warmer, the air expands, migrates
out of the
> wood and makes the bubbles in the epoxy. It could help to warm up
the wood
> before applying epoxy so it will cool down and soak up the epoxy.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Dietmar

Another possibility is to seal the wood with a light coat of thinned
epoxy. Thinned to soak in and not trap bubbles. - wait until it
firms up but not completely cures, then apply the main coat. Someone
posted this idea a while back and said it worked well for them. I
think they waited over night on the sealer - about 10 -12 hours.

Others say to apply the epoxy in the evening as temperature is
falling into the night. Or work outside (warm) and cure in air
conditioning. The idea is falling temperatures so the air in the
wood will not expand and come out into the epoxy but shrink and suck
the epoxy into the wood.

Charles
Hi Steve,

I have seen this on differend kinds of wood. I think its air/gas enclosed
in the wood. If the wood gets warmer, the air expands, migrates out of the
wood and makes the bubbles in the epoxy. It could help to warm up the wood
before applying epoxy so it will cool down and soak up the epoxy.

Hope this helps,

Dietmar

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