Re: [bolger] Re: Motor overboard!
That sounds like the drill to me, proa. I'm amazed it didn't bend the connecting rod.
The only thing I would add would be to run it under load for a good hour or so, just to make sure all the water is gone gone.
You might want to contact Nissan. They might PAY for this story.
The only thing I would add would be to run it under load for a good hour or so, just to make sure all the water is gone gone.
You might want to contact Nissan. They might PAY for this story.
----- Original Message -----
From: proaconstrictor
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2003 10:51 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Motor overboard!
Here is one take on motor reconditioning. Any reason to do otherwise?
i would change all the gear oil in the shaft and gear case,
pull the
spark plug out and leave it a day or two with the hole protected so
bugs and
stuff can't get in, so it will dry out. 2 strokes have a scavenge
cycle
through the crankcase for the exhaust and compression stroke, so pull
it over
a couple of times a day to get any trapped fluid out, it'll probably
spit it
out the hole. As well, when you start it back up, do it with fresh
gas,
dump
the old stuff, and make it a rich mix for the first tank, that will
get
oil to
all the nooks and crannies, a fresh water bath is a whole lot better
than a
salt water one!
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
that sounds like good advice. have a 15 minute prayer about thanks
for not being in salt water. probably dont need to replace the oil in
the foot. fresh oil/gas/filters. cover off engine and spray with wd40.
then it needs to run until it heats up enough to evaporate water, and
do it asap.
bill
c19 tao
http://www.hci.net/~shamblin/sboat.htm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jonathan Smith" <the_jopasm@y...>
wrote:
for not being in salt water. probably dont need to replace the oil in
the foot. fresh oil/gas/filters. cover off engine and spray with wd40.
then it needs to run until it heats up enough to evaporate water, and
do it asap.
bill
c19 tao
http://www.hci.net/~shamblin/sboat.htm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jonathan Smith" <the_jopasm@y...>
wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"go
> <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> >
> > When I started her, she turned over for a few cycles, but didn't
> > any further, however, that wouldn't be all that unusual for acold
> > start. I didn't want to go nuts on the thing, since there isalmost
> > certainly some water in the gas, and so forth. Not knowing anygas.
> > better, I was worried about carrying the experiment too far.
>
> Well...I'm lucky enough to not have experienced this firsthand (yet)
> but the advice I've always heard is drain all the oil (transmission,
> engine, etc) ASAP and drain the gas. Replace it with fresh oil &
>grit
> Replace the filters while you're at it, esp. if they're paper. If
> they're foam take 'em out and let them dry at the very least. You
> *might* have to change the oil more than once if there's lots of
> or water in it. Check it after a couple of days or so.it
>
> Once again...this is what I've been told but I haven't had to test
> yet. :)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
but the advice I've always heard is drain all the oil (transmission,
engine, etc) ASAP and drain the gas. Replace it with fresh oil & gas.
Replace the filters while you're at it, esp. if they're paper. If
they're foam take 'em out and let them dry at the very least. You
*might* have to change the oil more than once if there's lots of grit
or water in it. Check it after a couple of days or so.
Once again...this is what I've been told but I haven't had to test it
yet. :)
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
>Well...I'm lucky enough to not have experienced this firsthand (yet)
> When I started her, she turned over for a few cycles, but didn't go
> any further, however, that wouldn't be all that unusual for a cold
> start. I didn't want to go nuts on the thing, since there is almost
> certainly some water in the gas, and so forth. Not knowing any
> better, I was worried about carrying the experiment too far.
but the advice I've always heard is drain all the oil (transmission,
engine, etc) ASAP and drain the gas. Replace it with fresh oil & gas.
Replace the filters while you're at it, esp. if they're paper. If
they're foam take 'em out and let them dry at the very least. You
*might* have to change the oil more than once if there's lots of grit
or water in it. Check it after a couple of days or so.
Once again...this is what I've been told but I haven't had to test it
yet. :)
Howdy
fuel/oil ratio you have plenty of oil to coat and protect the surfaces.
If you add more oil to your fuel, it will displace gasoline when the
fuel/oil mixture pass through the carburetor causing a lean condition in
the engine. (Lean--- too much air in proportion to the gasoline) Not a
good thing. Oil burns hotter than gasoline, and so adding extra oil
will not only cause a lean gasoline mixture which can overheat your
engine, but the excess oil adds to that tendency to overheat.
The normal terms used to describe fuel/oil and fuel/air mixtures make
what I've just said seem counter intuitive. Jetting my 2 stroke Trials
motorcycle and my 2 stroke road racer, taught me a little. I ran the
Trials bike at 70/1 and know folks that run 100/1 with no problems.
There is plenty of oil to lubricate stuff that needs lube and the engine
runs cooler, produces more power, and doesn't foul plugs nearly as much.
:)
Opening up the gear box and other lubricated areas and draining the
lubricants is a good idea, but DO NOT expose those parts to air to dry
out. Air and water cause rust. Then again if you have some heat lamps,
you could open all of the accessible areas and expose the engine to heat
lamps to warm it up and drive off the moisture. Refill with new
lubricants, and if able run the engine up to normal operating
temperatures. Change the lubricants after a few hours of operation, and
you should be good to go.
Be advised that the only engine that I have treated for water immersion
was on a Trials motorcycle that I dropped in the river. Hydraulic lock
pulled the cylinder studs right out of the case. Rust was no problem
since the engine was only in the water for a couple of minutes. So I
might not have a clue.
Good Luck
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----I wouldn't change the fuel/oil ratio. Unless you are running 100/1
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Motor overboard!
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
> <proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> use a heavier oil mixture than normal for the first tank. I have used
> engines for several years with no apparent ill effects after treatment
> like this. If your is running already I would maybe add a little extra
> oil in the gas and run it.
fuel/oil ratio you have plenty of oil to coat and protect the surfaces.
If you add more oil to your fuel, it will displace gasoline when the
fuel/oil mixture pass through the carburetor causing a lean condition in
the engine. (Lean--- too much air in proportion to the gasoline) Not a
good thing. Oil burns hotter than gasoline, and so adding extra oil
will not only cause a lean gasoline mixture which can overheat your
engine, but the excess oil adds to that tendency to overheat.
The normal terms used to describe fuel/oil and fuel/air mixtures make
what I've just said seem counter intuitive. Jetting my 2 stroke Trials
motorcycle and my 2 stroke road racer, taught me a little. I ran the
Trials bike at 70/1 and know folks that run 100/1 with no problems.
There is plenty of oil to lubricate stuff that needs lube and the engine
runs cooler, produces more power, and doesn't foul plugs nearly as much.
:)
Opening up the gear box and other lubricated areas and draining the
lubricants is a good idea, but DO NOT expose those parts to air to dry
out. Air and water cause rust. Then again if you have some heat lamps,
you could open all of the accessible areas and expose the engine to heat
lamps to warm it up and drive off the moisture. Refill with new
lubricants, and if able run the engine up to normal operating
temperatures. Change the lubricants after a few hours of operation, and
you should be good to go.
Be advised that the only engine that I have treated for water immersion
was on a Trials motorcycle that I dropped in the river. Hydraulic lock
pulled the cylinder studs right out of the case. Rust was no problem
since the engine was only in the water for a couple of minutes. So I
might not have a clue.
Good Luck
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
Howdy
If it went down running, then you might have had an hydraulic lock.
This is a very bad thing. If the engine inhaled enough water before it
quit turning over, it would have tried to compress the water in the
combustion chamber. Water being incompressible won't compress so
something has to give, usually the cylinder head, and or cylinder gets
pulled off it's studs, or the connecting rod bends, or the piston
breaks. Then again, you could be lucky and the engine might have
inhaled enough water to put the fire out before it experienced hydraulic
lock. Since you said that you got it running on the third pull it's
unlikely that it suffered a major mechanical failure.
Then there is rust. :( I've heard that it takes quite a while for
corrosion to take place underwater, relatively speaking, so the odds are
that being underwater for that length of time would not cause any
appreciable damage. Nasty corrosion would start once the engine is
exposed to air. One of the neat things about 2 strokes is that all of
the internal parts are coated with oil, and if you're lucky the
immersion did not wash the oil away. So again you may have been saved
from corrosion.
It could be good news that you started the engine soon after recovery.
If you are lucky you recoated the internal surfaces with oil.
If it seemed to run okay, then you may want to drain the fuel in the
system, install new fuel, and run it. The bad part is that if there was
hydraulic lock damage, running the engine could increase that damage.
If you are a gambler, run it. But since you implied that you are not a
motor head I can't recommend a visual inspection. If you are worried
take it to a shop.
Sorry if this isn't helpful
Good Luck
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
If you give me money, I'll try to spend it.
Click here to Donate
> -----Original Message-----I'm no expert, but here goes.
> Subject: [bolger] Motor overboard!
>
> Any suggestions on what
> kind of maintenance should be done to get her back in working
> order? Motors aren't my thing, so I have no idea.
If it went down running, then you might have had an hydraulic lock.
This is a very bad thing. If the engine inhaled enough water before it
quit turning over, it would have tried to compress the water in the
combustion chamber. Water being incompressible won't compress so
something has to give, usually the cylinder head, and or cylinder gets
pulled off it's studs, or the connecting rod bends, or the piston
breaks. Then again, you could be lucky and the engine might have
inhaled enough water to put the fire out before it experienced hydraulic
lock. Since you said that you got it running on the third pull it's
unlikely that it suffered a major mechanical failure.
Then there is rust. :( I've heard that it takes quite a while for
corrosion to take place underwater, relatively speaking, so the odds are
that being underwater for that length of time would not cause any
appreciable damage. Nasty corrosion would start once the engine is
exposed to air. One of the neat things about 2 strokes is that all of
the internal parts are coated with oil, and if you're lucky the
immersion did not wash the oil away. So again you may have been saved
from corrosion.
It could be good news that you started the engine soon after recovery.
If you are lucky you recoated the internal surfaces with oil.
If it seemed to run okay, then you may want to drain the fuel in the
system, install new fuel, and run it. The bad part is that if there was
hydraulic lock damage, running the engine could increase that damage.
If you are a gambler, run it. But since you implied that you are not a
motor head I can't recommend a visual inspection. If you are worried
take it to a shop.
Sorry if this isn't helpful
Good Luck
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
If you give me money, I'll try to spend it.
Click here to Donate
Thanks.
When I started her, she turned over for a few cycles, but didn't go
any further, however, that wouldn't be all that unusual for a cold
start. I didn't want to go nuts on the thing, since there is almost
certainly some water in the gas, and so forth. Not knowing any
better, I was worried about carrying the experiment too far.
When I started her, she turned over for a few cycles, but didn't go
any further, however, that wouldn't be all that unusual for a cold
start. I didn't want to go nuts on the thing, since there is almost
certainly some water in the gas, and so forth. Not knowing any
better, I was worried about carrying the experiment too far.
> I am amazed that it started and ran having gone in running. Usuallypull
> something inside bends. I have pulled several motors out of fresh
> water. All I ever did was take out the sparkplugs, drain the water
> out, squirt oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes,
> the starter cord through a couple of times, dry the spark plugs, putto
> them back in and try to start it. If it started run it long enough
> get it hot enough to evaporate all the water on the engine. Iusually
> use a heavier oil mixture than normal for the first tank. I haveused
> engines for several years with no apparent ill effects aftertreatment
> like this. If your is running already I would maybe add a littleextra
> oil in the gas and run it. Good Luck. Tom on Sandpiper.
Here is one take on motor reconditioning. Any reason to do otherwise?
i would change all the gear oil in the shaft and gear case,
pull the
spark plug out and leave it a day or two with the hole protected so
bugs and
stuff can't get in, so it will dry out. 2 strokes have a scavenge
cycle
through the crankcase for the exhaust and compression stroke, so pull
it over
a couple of times a day to get any trapped fluid out, it'll probably
spit it
out the hole. As well, when you start it back up, do it with fresh
gas,
dump
the old stuff, and make it a rich mix for the first tank, that will
get
oil to
all the nooks and crannies, a fresh water bath is a whole lot better
than a
salt water one!
i would change all the gear oil in the shaft and gear case,
pull the
spark plug out and leave it a day or two with the hole protected so
bugs and
stuff can't get in, so it will dry out. 2 strokes have a scavenge
cycle
through the crankcase for the exhaust and compression stroke, so pull
it over
a couple of times a day to get any trapped fluid out, it'll probably
spit it
out the hole. As well, when you start it back up, do it with fresh
gas,
dump
the old stuff, and make it a rich mix for the first tank, that will
get
oil to
all the nooks and crannies, a fresh water bath is a whole lot better
than a
salt water one!
Here is one take on motor reconditioning. Any reason to do otherwise?
i would change all the gear oil in the shaft and gear case,
pull the
spark plug out and leave it a day or two with the hole protected so
bugs and
stuff can't get in, so it will dry out. 2 strokes have a scavenge
cycle
through the crankcase for the exhaust and compression stroke, so pull
it over
a couple of times a day to get any trapped fluid out, it'll probably
spit it
out the hole. As well, when you start it back up, do it with fresh
gas,
dump
the old stuff, and make it a rich mix for the first tank, that will
get
oil to
all the nooks and crannies, a fresh water bath is a whole lot better
than a
salt water one!
i would change all the gear oil in the shaft and gear case,
pull the
spark plug out and leave it a day or two with the hole protected so
bugs and
stuff can't get in, so it will dry out. 2 strokes have a scavenge
cycle
through the crankcase for the exhaust and compression stroke, so pull
it over
a couple of times a day to get any trapped fluid out, it'll probably
spit it
out the hole. As well, when you start it back up, do it with fresh
gas,
dump
the old stuff, and make it a rich mix for the first tank, that will
get
oil to
all the nooks and crannies, a fresh water bath is a whole lot better
than a
salt water one!
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "proaconstrictor"
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
something inside bends. I have pulled several motors out of fresh
water. All I ever did was take out the sparkplugs, drain the water
out, squirt oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes, pull
the starter cord through a couple of times, dry the spark plugs, put
them back in and try to start it. If it started run it long enough to
get it hot enough to evaporate all the water on the engine. I usually
use a heavier oil mixture than normal for the first tank. I have used
engines for several years with no apparent ill effects after treatment
like this. If your is running already I would maybe add a little extra
oil in the gas and run it. Good Luck. Tom on Sandpiper.
<proaconstrictor@y...> wrote:
> My heretofore faithful Nissan longshaft, 2 stroke, 3.5 HP kicker gotthe third pull. Any suggestions on what
> tired of the food and jumped ship in 15 feet of water. Started on
> kind of maintenaance should be done to get her back in workingI am amazed that it started and ran having gone in running. Usually
> order? Motors aren't my thing, so I have no idea.
something inside bends. I have pulled several motors out of fresh
water. All I ever did was take out the sparkplugs, drain the water
out, squirt oil into the cylinders through the spark plug holes, pull
the starter cord through a couple of times, dry the spark plugs, put
them back in and try to start it. If it started run it long enough to
get it hot enough to evaporate all the water on the engine. I usually
use a heavier oil mixture than normal for the first tank. I have used
engines for several years with no apparent ill effects after treatment
like this. If your is running already I would maybe add a little extra
oil in the gas and run it. Good Luck. Tom on Sandpiper.
My heretofore faithful Nissan longshaft, 2 stroke, 3.5 HP kicker got
tired of the food and jumped ship in 15 feet of water. Visibility
due to storm riled waters was zero, and it wasn't until 24 hours
later that I was able to raise her. Started on the third pull,
though it did occur to me that this might have been better not
attempted, still some things are work 500 bucks just to know. She
went down running, so would have sucked in whatever amount of fresh
water into wherever until the music stopped. Any suggestions on what
kind of maintenaance should be done to get her back in working
order? Motors aren't my thing, so I have no idea.
tired of the food and jumped ship in 15 feet of water. Visibility
due to storm riled waters was zero, and it wasn't until 24 hours
later that I was able to raise her. Started on the third pull,
though it did occur to me that this might have been better not
attempted, still some things are work 500 bucks just to know. She
went down running, so would have sucked in whatever amount of fresh
water into wherever until the music stopped. Any suggestions on what
kind of maintenaance should be done to get her back in working
order? Motors aren't my thing, so I have no idea.