Re: Source for epoxy...-Saw Reply
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Harry James <welshman@p...> wrote:
(though a 77 is great too, and probably better if you are supplying
the crew, plus it comes in two weights, two blade sizes, and there
are all sorts of neat timber attachments). Some people have
mentioned durability issues with the Dewalt, though mine has been
fabulous, it is lighter, nicer, and has the best ergonomics,
particularly relative to the guard, of any saw I have tried.
> I am a model 77 worm drive fan. It will never wear out in home use.gave it
> Makita makes a an updated version that is lighter, and John Cupp
> a good review in Duckworks.A nicer to use saw, is the Dewalt sorta-sidewinder, ideal in my use
(though a 77 is great too, and probably better if you are supplying
the crew, plus it comes in two weights, two blade sizes, and there
are all sorts of neat timber attachments). Some people have
mentioned durability issues with the Dewalt, though mine has been
fabulous, it is lighter, nicer, and has the best ergonomics,
particularly relative to the guard, of any saw I have tried.
I am a model 77 worm drive fan. It will never wear out in home use.
Makita makes a an updated version that is lighter, and John Cupp gave it
a good review in Duckworks. I have at least 3 side mounted circular saws
and I never use them except for cutting up pallets for firewood. If I am
cutting sheet plywood, I use a fence and the Skill 77. Using one of the
Dave Carnell Mashita blades, you can do very good work with a fence.
Cutting out side panels where you have the measurements for the finished
panel, I have found that you can stack the panels and do them all at
once for up to 3 boats with the Skill. You can do some pretty good
curves. If you use a even a good Jigsaw for this you will find the blade
doesn't track true at the bottom panels, wows in or out depending on the
curve. The key to using the big skill is practice. It is heavy and you
have to work with a bit before you get the hand coordination needed to
be accurate with it. Those who use it a lot, keep on using it a lot.
I have a chop (compound miter saw) set up on a permanent table, and it
gets 30-40% of the power tool use in the shop, if you don't count the
sanders.
Here is a home made table saw link. My brother, who is a semi pro, used
to bolt his Skill upside on a piece of plywood and with a piece of
clamped on angle iron as a fence, use it as a table saw.
http://www.boatdesign.com/postings/Files/tablesaw/tooltabl.htm
HJ
rsmboatbuilder wrote:
Makita makes a an updated version that is lighter, and John Cupp gave it
a good review in Duckworks. I have at least 3 side mounted circular saws
and I never use them except for cutting up pallets for firewood. If I am
cutting sheet plywood, I use a fence and the Skill 77. Using one of the
Dave Carnell Mashita blades, you can do very good work with a fence.
Cutting out side panels where you have the measurements for the finished
panel, I have found that you can stack the panels and do them all at
once for up to 3 boats with the Skill. You can do some pretty good
curves. If you use a even a good Jigsaw for this you will find the blade
doesn't track true at the bottom panels, wows in or out depending on the
curve. The key to using the big skill is practice. It is heavy and you
have to work with a bit before you get the hand coordination needed to
be accurate with it. Those who use it a lot, keep on using it a lot.
I have a chop (compound miter saw) set up on a permanent table, and it
gets 30-40% of the power tool use in the shop, if you don't count the
sanders.
Here is a home made table saw link. My brother, who is a semi pro, used
to bolt his Skill upside on a piece of plywood and with a piece of
clamped on angle iron as a fence, use it as a table saw.
http://www.boatdesign.com/postings/Files/tablesaw/tooltabl.htm
HJ
rsmboatbuilder wrote:
>>Also - anybody got a recommendation on a skil type saw? I don't
>>
>>
>have
>
>
>>one (I've made do with a jig saw or trips to my fathers workshop)
>>
>>
>but
>
>
>>now seems like a good time to shell out the cash since I'll get some
>>use out of it.
>>
>>
>O
>
Has anyone used the no-blush Raka epoxy? Is it worth the extra money?
Maybe not if you work outside and can use a water hose but what about
inside the shop with something too big to move outside?
Charles
Maybe not if you work outside and can use a water hose but what about
inside the shop with something too big to move outside?
Charles
I own a small table saw,
a big worm drive Skilsaw,
and a small side motor Skilsaw.
If I had to have only one,
I would keep the small Skilsaw.
I use it the most, because
I find that most of the work
building boats is 'detail
work' and the light weight and
convenience of the Skil model
5515 finds me reaching for it
the most often.
This has only a 5 1/2" blade,
and blades are had to locate,
it is also called a 'trim
saw'. It has just enough
bite to cut through a 2x4
and no more. Just perfect
for boat building, IMO.
My big wormdrive is used for
ripping long boards, and my
table saw doesn't get much
use except for cutting tricky
bevels, or things like that.
a big worm drive Skilsaw,
and a small side motor Skilsaw.
If I had to have only one,
I would keep the small Skilsaw.
I use it the most, because
I find that most of the work
building boats is 'detail
work' and the light weight and
convenience of the Skil model
5515 finds me reaching for it
the most often.
This has only a 5 1/2" blade,
and blades are had to locate,
it is also called a 'trim
saw'. It has just enough
bite to cut through a 2x4
and no more. Just perfect
for boat building, IMO.
My big wormdrive is used for
ripping long boards, and my
table saw doesn't get much
use except for cutting tricky
bevels, or things like that.
I, of course, recommend using the correct tool for the job...
screwdrivers as levers, hammer claws as ice picks, that sourt of thing.
That said, I ruined 3 side motor saws in 6 months before a friend
introduced me to worm-drive. My worm-drive (skill) is now 10 years
old and looks/acts brand new. I'll clamp a guide and use it to rip,
I'll use it with a speed square and cut miters, I'll even use it to
cut mild freehand curves. 8 times out of 10 it is the first tool I'll
grab, not the last. The other two times I'll do it with hand tools or
my Bosch jigsaw. Side motor saws? I haven't owned one in 10 years now...
Brent
P.S. I have even used it with metal and masonry blades to grind my way
through a couple of tough projects. The saw just seems to love it.
screwdrivers as levers, hammer claws as ice picks, that sourt of thing.
That said, I ruined 3 side motor saws in 6 months before a friend
introduced me to worm-drive. My worm-drive (skill) is now 10 years
old and looks/acts brand new. I'll clamp a guide and use it to rip,
I'll use it with a speed square and cut miters, I'll even use it to
cut mild freehand curves. 8 times out of 10 it is the first tool I'll
grab, not the last. The other two times I'll do it with hand tools or
my Bosch jigsaw. Side motor saws? I haven't owned one in 10 years now...
Brent
P.S. I have even used it with metal and masonry blades to grind my way
through a couple of tough projects. The saw just seems to love it.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "David Romasco" <dromasco@g...> wrote:
> Having used both (built a few boats and one house), I have to add my USD
> $.02. I loved my Skil worm-drive: tough, powerful saw. Great saw for
> building houses. To me, it's also a bit cumbersome. I have several
> sidewinders, none of which inspire much affection, but.. I seem to use
> them more. Go figure! Maybe the sidewinder cutting end is too far from
> the operator for me, who knows?
>
>
>
> If you held the figurative gun to my head, though, and had me select the
> one saw I'd take to my desert island (assuming the extension cord will
> reach) would be my Bosch jigsaw. I've been known to cut straight lines
> using a guide strip and two clamps, and it's a square, clean cut every
> time. Could I sneak my Japanese handsaw in as well?
>
>
>
> David Romasco
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Ryan [mailto:david@c...]
> Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 4:28 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Source for epoxy...-Saw Reply
>
>
>
>
> >> 2. Skill saws are great and never buy a side motor skill saw! Always
> >> worm drive contractor model $150+ (You'll die before it does)
> >
> >That's what I was looking at getting. There's a new one from Makita
> >(I think it's Makita) that is getting good reviews. It's $120 or so
> >from amazon. There's a review on duckworksmagazine site.
>
> I have a B&D Anniversary edition Skil saw. So far it's built:
>
> A Teal
>
> A Light Scooner
>
> 3 Glouster Gulls
>
> Innumerable household projects
>
> I'm all in favor of buying the best tools you can afford, but I
> wouldn't buy a worm-drive saw if it meant doing without a couple of
> other tools.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
> --
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
>
>
>
>
>
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> 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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>
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>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Having used both (built a few boats and one house), I have to add my USD
$.02. I loved my Skil worm-drive: tough, powerful saw. Great saw for
building houses. To me, it's also a bit cumbersome. I have several
sidewinders, none of which inspire much affection, but.. I seem to use
them more. Go figure! Maybe the sidewinder cutting end is too far from
the operator for me, who knows?
If you held the figurative gun to my head, though, and had me select the
one saw I'd take to my desert island (assuming the extension cord will
reach) would be my Bosch jigsaw. I've been known to cut straight lines
using a guide strip and two clamps, and it's a square, clean cut every
time. Could I sneak my Japanese handsaw in as well?
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ryan [mailto:david@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 4:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Source for epoxy...-Saw Reply
A Teal
A Light Scooner
3 Glouster Gulls
Innumerable household projects
I'm all in favor of buying the best tools you can afford, but I
wouldn't buy a worm-drive saw if it meant doing without a couple of
other tools.
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1652964/R=0/SIG=11t2ts2ch/*http:/www.netflix.com/Default?mqs
o=60178276&partid=3170658> click here
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Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
$.02. I loved my Skil worm-drive: tough, powerful saw. Great saw for
building houses. To me, it's also a bit cumbersome. I have several
sidewinders, none of which inspire much affection, but.. I seem to use
them more. Go figure! Maybe the sidewinder cutting end is too far from
the operator for me, who knows?
If you held the figurative gun to my head, though, and had me select the
one saw I'd take to my desert island (assuming the extension cord will
reach) would be my Bosch jigsaw. I've been known to cut straight lines
using a guide strip and two clamps, and it's a square, clean cut every
time. Could I sneak my Japanese handsaw in as well?
David Romasco
-----Original Message-----
From: David Ryan [mailto:david@...]
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 4:28 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Re: Source for epoxy...-Saw Reply
>> 2. Skill saws are great and never buy a side motor skill saw! AlwaysI have a B&D Anniversary edition Skil saw. So far it's built:
>> worm drive contractor model $150+ (You'll die before it does)
>
>That's what I was looking at getting. There's a new one from Makita
>(I think it's Makita) that is getting good reviews. It's $120 or so
>from amazon. There's a review on duckworksmagazine site.
A Teal
A Light Scooner
3 Glouster Gulls
Innumerable household projects
I'm all in favor of buying the best tools you can afford, but I
wouldn't buy a worm-drive saw if it meant doing without a couple of
other tools.
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705
065791:HM/A=1652964/R=0/SIG=11t2ts2ch/*http:/www.netflix.com/Default?mqs
o=60178276&partid=3170658> click here
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=251812.3170658.4537139.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1652964/rand=300580269>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
- To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo!
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Terms of Service.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I like the worm drive saws but find for myself anyway that I can cut more
accurate with the side motor than the taller worm drive model. I have
better control. My B & D is a bit light for the heavy use it's getting on
the Wyo but how many small boats are you going to build cutting through 4x4s
and 1 1/2 inches of laminated plywood hull bottoms for 100 feet or more. On
projects like the Trilars, Nymph, and my Frolic2, it would last a life time.
My worm drive saw just sits. I can see contractors liking them but for
cutting curves and plywood with a jig guide, I like the lighter and handier
side motor as my personal preference.
Jeff
accurate with the side motor than the taller worm drive model. I have
better control. My B & D is a bit light for the heavy use it's getting on
the Wyo but how many small boats are you going to build cutting through 4x4s
and 1 1/2 inches of laminated plywood hull bottoms for 100 feet or more. On
projects like the Trilars, Nymph, and my Frolic2, it would last a life time.
My worm drive saw just sits. I can see contractors liking them but for
cutting curves and plywood with a jig guide, I like the lighter and handier
side motor as my personal preference.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Ryan" <david@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 27, 2003 2:28 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Source for epoxy...-Saw Reply
>
> >> 2. Skill saws are great and never buy a side motor skill saw! Always
> >> worm drive contractor model $150+ (You'll die before it does)
> >
> >That's what I was looking at getting. There's a new one from Makita
> >(I think it's Makita) that is getting good reviews. It's $120 or so
> >from amazon. There's a review on duckworksmagazine site.
>
> I have a B&D Anniversary edition Skil saw. So far it's built:
>
> A Teal
>
> A Light Scooner
>
> 3 Glouster Gulls
>
> Innumerable household projects
>
> I'm all in favor of buying the best tools you can afford, but I
> wouldn't buy a worm-drive saw if it meant doing without a couple of
> other tools.
>
> YIBB,
>
> David
> --
>
> C.E.P.
> 415 W.46th Street
> New York, New York 10036
>http://www.crumblingempire.com
> Mobile (646) 325-8325
> Office (212) 247-0296
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - add your comments at the TOP and SIGN your posts and <snip> away
> - To order plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA,
01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>> 2. Skill saws are great and never buy a side motor skill saw! AlwaysI have a B&D Anniversary edition Skil saw. So far it's built:
>> worm drive contractor model $150+ (You'll die before it does)
>
>That's what I was looking at getting. There's a new one from Makita
>(I think it's Makita) that is getting good reviews. It's $120 or so
>from amazon. There's a review on duckworksmagazine site.
A Teal
A Light Scooner
3 Glouster Gulls
Innumerable household projects
I'm all in favor of buying the best tools you can afford, but I
wouldn't buy a worm-drive saw if it meant doing without a couple of
other tools.
YIBB,
David
--
C.E.P.
415 W.46th Street
New York, New York 10036
http://www.crumblingempire.com
Mobile (646) 325-8325
Office (212) 247-0296
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "rsmboatbuilder" <isdkelly@c...> wrote:
the time being. I'm building a surf, it'll fit in the carport but
there's no door/lock so I can't leave power tools in it. :)
(I think it's Makita) that is getting good reviews. It's $120 or so
from amazon. There's a review on duckworksmagazine site.
find a low-angle block plane - gotta hit the good antique shops next
week). Still got to build a toolbox that I can fix some of the odd
shaped ones in and finish up a folding workbench. Guess that can be
my project for the week. :)
Looks like I'll be mail odering the glue. Oh well. Maybe I can get
started actually putting stuff together next weekend.
Jonathan
> Ok three points on saws - Remember these are personal opinions!I don't have anywhere to store a table saw so that option is out for
> 1. Table saws are great for little things like cutting bevels on a
> chine log, or creating a lap for a joint - But for most boatbuilding
> tasks you never have enough table for the saw - Try cutting a 4'x16'
> sheet of ply solo!
the time being. I'm building a surf, it'll fit in the carport but
there's no door/lock so I can't leave power tools in it. :)
> 2. Skill saws are great and never buy a side motor skill saw! AlwaysThat's what I was looking at getting. There's a new one from Makita
> worm drive contractor model $150+ (You'll die before it does)
(I think it's Makita) that is getting good reviews. It's $120 or so
from amazon. There's a review on duckworksmagazine site.
> 3. I always start a building project with grand dreams of saving timeHeh. Is anybody immune to this?
> and being precise by using some great new electric tool - It hasnt
> happened yet that this ever becomes reality. Usually tool setup and
> prep etc takes more time than the job at hand.
> With this being said I have a great recomendationThanks. I've got one. I'm pretty well setup on hand tools (need to
> Marples saws! They are had saws with very thin pull blades like a
> japanize saw. They come on a very stiff plastic saw base and the
> blades may be interchanged. They are very fast saws and perform
> flawlessly. They have I think three saw types course (regular
> capenter) Fine, and very fine (maybe 20-24 teeth per inch and damn
> sharp!)
> They run 18-22 bucks and are made in Japan
> If you really want one and cant find one my local home depot sells
> them I could pick one up and ship it out.
find a low-angle block plane - gotta hit the good antique shops next
week). Still got to build a toolbox that I can fix some of the odd
shaped ones in and finish up a folding workbench. Guess that can be
my project for the week. :)
Looks like I'll be mail odering the glue. Oh well. Maybe I can get
started actually putting stuff together next weekend.
Jonathan
> Also - anybody got a recommendation on a skil type saw? I don'thave
> one (I've made do with a jig saw or trips to my fathers workshop)but
> now seems like a good time to shell out the cash since I'll get someOk three points on saws - Remember these are personal opinions!
> use out of it.
1. Table saws are great for little things like cutting bevels on a
chine log, or creating a lap for a joint - But for most boatbuilding
tasks you never have enough table for the saw - Try cutting a 4'x16'
sheet of ply solo!
2. Skill saws are great and never buy a side motor skill saw! Always
worm drive contractor model $150+ (You'll die before it does)
3. I always start a building project with grand dreams of saving time
and being precise by using some great new electric tool - It hasnt
happened yet that this ever becomes reality. Usually tool setup and
prep etc takes more time than the job at hand.
With this being said I have a great recomendation
Marples saws! They are had saws with very thin pull blades like a
japanize saw. They come on a very stiff plastic saw base and the
blades may be interchanged. They are very fast saws and perform
flawlessly. They have I think three saw types course (regular
capenter) Fine, and very fine (maybe 20-24 teeth per inch and damn
sharp!)
They run 18-22 bucks and are made in Japan
If you really want one and cant find one my local home depot sells
them I could pick one up and ship it out.
Regards
If you have a West marine store near you, you can probably pick up some
epoxy and fiberglass(also called West, but I think there's no
connection). However, take someone with you who can weild a jar of
smelling salts when you see th prices and faint. If you don't have twice
as much money as you need, I strongly recommend going to www.raka.com
for the epoxy and maybe the glass and other miscellaneous items.. I've
gotten other supplies (like glass, microballoons, mixing cups, etc.)
from Merton's, Defender (www.defenderus.com, I think) and Glen-L and
have been satisfied with the service. If you must spend what you save,
use it on your new saw.
epoxy and fiberglass(also called West, but I think there's no
connection). However, take someone with you who can weild a jar of
smelling salts when you see th prices and faint. If you don't have twice
as much money as you need, I strongly recommend going to www.raka.com
for the epoxy and maybe the glass and other miscellaneous items.. I've
gotten other supplies (like glass, microballoons, mixing cups, etc.)
from Merton's, Defender (www.defenderus.com, I think) and Glen-L and
have been satisfied with the service. If you must spend what you save,
use it on your new saw.
>Jonathan Smith wrote:[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>Anybody know of any national "home improvement" type stores that carry
>epoxy? There's a Lowes and a Home Depot fairly close. I'll mail
>order it if I have to but I'm impatient - it'd be better if I could
>just go to the store and pick some up tomorrow. :)
>
>I'm probably going to have to order the fiberglass cloth strips
>(precut seems...easier) anyway but I'd like to get started on the side
>and bottom - for that I need expoxy to glue up the butt joints.
>
>Also - anybody got a recommendation on a skil type saw? I don't have
>one (I've made do with a jig saw or trips to my fathers workshop) but
>now seems like a good time to shell out the cash since I'll get some
>use out of it.
>
>Thanks...
>
>Jonathan
>
>
>
>_______________________________
>
--- "Jonathan Smith" <the_jopasm@y...> wrote:
is a real annoyance; but the mail order
price is half that of the retail marine
stores. Even more savings if you buy
in volume, which makes the per gallon
shipping cost more efficient.
It is amazing how useful epoxy can be
when you don't have to be up-tight about
it being so overly expensive.
I have been buying 6 gallons at a time
from www.Raka.com. One gallon bottle of
the fast and the very slow hardener plus
four gallons of the resin. The freedom
from sales tax nearly pays for the shipping
cost. The people at Raka, especially Larry,
are knowlegable and helpful. Usually, he
ships the same day as he gets the order.
The time for shipping relates to how long
it takes the UPS trucks to travel from
Florida, about a week to get to me in
California.
My advice, plan ahead and buy it mail
order.
> I'll mail order it if I have to but I'm impatientYou are right, the delay for the shipping,
is a real annoyance; but the mail order
price is half that of the retail marine
stores. Even more savings if you buy
in volume, which makes the per gallon
shipping cost more efficient.
It is amazing how useful epoxy can be
when you don't have to be up-tight about
it being so overly expensive.
I have been buying 6 gallons at a time
from www.Raka.com. One gallon bottle of
the fast and the very slow hardener plus
four gallons of the resin. The freedom
from sales tax nearly pays for the shipping
cost. The people at Raka, especially Larry,
are knowlegable and helpful. Usually, he
ships the same day as he gets the order.
The time for shipping relates to how long
it takes the UPS trucks to travel from
Florida, about a week to get to me in
California.
My advice, plan ahead and buy it mail
order.
I buy my epoxy and fiberglass from:
http://www.fgci.com/
They do ship but if you live near St. Petersburg, FL
the shop is interesting to look around.
As far as precut fiberglass, if you are talking about
the glass for the chines, use what is called
fiberglass tape. it comes in various widths and the
edges don't fray.
Bill
--- Jonathan Smith <the_jopasm@...> wrote:
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http://www.fgci.com/
They do ship but if you live near St. Petersburg, FL
the shop is interesting to look around.
As far as precut fiberglass, if you are talking about
the glass for the chines, use what is called
fiberglass tape. it comes in various widths and the
edges don't fray.
Bill
--- Jonathan Smith <the_jopasm@...> wrote:
> Anybody know of any national "home improvement" type__________________________________
> stores that carry
> epoxy? There's a Lowes and a Home Depot fairly
> close. I'll mail
> order it if I have to but I'm impatient - it'd be
> better if I could
> just go to the store and pick some up tomorrow. :)
>
> I'm probably going to have to order the fiberglass
> cloth strips
> (precut seems...easier) anyway but I'd like to get
> started on the side
> and bottom - for that I need expoxy to glue up the
> butt joints.
>
> Also - anybody got a recommendation on a skil type
> saw? I don't have
> one (I've made do with a jig saw or trips to my
> fathers workshop) but
> now seems like a good time to shell out the cash
> since I'll get some
> use out of it.
>
> Thanks...
>
> Jonathan
>
>
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home depot used to be the only place that i could find epoxy by the
quart. now i cane even find it there.
there are literally hundreds of epoxy brews. dont get the quick dry
as it is usually only 1/2 as strong as slow dry. after doing epoxy
research re aircraft construction, i am going to keep buying epoxy
from a place that has it purpose formulated. i would choose glen-l
marine in bellflower ca because i have dealt with them satisfactorily
in the past.
skil saws are not expensive now and many are good. i would spend
money on a sabre saw and a 100% table saw. ( delta - lowes ). it is
hard to cut exact lines with a skil type saw.
bill
c19 tao
http://www.hci.net/~shamblin/sboat.htm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jonathan Smith" <the_jopasm@y...>
wrote:
quart. now i cane even find it there.
there are literally hundreds of epoxy brews. dont get the quick dry
as it is usually only 1/2 as strong as slow dry. after doing epoxy
research re aircraft construction, i am going to keep buying epoxy
from a place that has it purpose formulated. i would choose glen-l
marine in bellflower ca because i have dealt with them satisfactorily
in the past.
skil saws are not expensive now and many are good. i would spend
money on a sabre saw and a 100% table saw. ( delta - lowes ). it is
hard to cut exact lines with a skil type saw.
bill
c19 tao
http://www.hci.net/~shamblin/sboat.htm
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Jonathan Smith" <the_jopasm@y...>
wrote:
> Anybody know of any national "home improvement" type stores thatcarry
> epoxy? There's a Lowes and a Home Depot fairly close. I'll mailside
> order it if I have to but I'm impatient - it'd be better if I could
> just go to the store and pick some up tomorrow. :)
>
> I'm probably going to have to order the fiberglass cloth strips
> (precut seems...easier) anyway but I'd like to get started on the
> and bottom - for that I need expoxy to glue up the butt joints.have
>
> Also - anybody got a recommendation on a skil type saw? I don't
> one (I've made do with a jig saw or trips to my fathers workshop)but
> now seems like a good time to shell out the cash since I'll get some
> use out of it.
>
> Thanks...
>
> Jonathan
Anybody know of any national "home improvement" type stores that carry
epoxy? There's a Lowes and a Home Depot fairly close. I'll mail
order it if I have to but I'm impatient - it'd be better if I could
just go to the store and pick some up tomorrow. :)
I'm probably going to have to order the fiberglass cloth strips
(precut seems...easier) anyway but I'd like to get started on the side
and bottom - for that I need expoxy to glue up the butt joints.
Also - anybody got a recommendation on a skil type saw? I don't have
one (I've made do with a jig saw or trips to my fathers workshop) but
now seems like a good time to shell out the cash since I'll get some
use out of it.
Thanks...
Jonathan
epoxy? There's a Lowes and a Home Depot fairly close. I'll mail
order it if I have to but I'm impatient - it'd be better if I could
just go to the store and pick some up tomorrow. :)
I'm probably going to have to order the fiberglass cloth strips
(precut seems...easier) anyway but I'd like to get started on the side
and bottom - for that I need expoxy to glue up the butt joints.
Also - anybody got a recommendation on a skil type saw? I don't have
one (I've made do with a jig saw or trips to my fathers workshop) but
now seems like a good time to shell out the cash since I'll get some
use out of it.
Thanks...
Jonathan