Re: [bolger] Re: Finer points of 4 sided sailmaking
>Gregg:I see Sherwin Williams stores have inexpensive white polytarp for
>
>I'll defer to your experience with sailcloth, but I have to take
>exception with your assessment of the stretchiness polytarp. There
>are after all more than one kind. The heavy duty white polytarp
>kits that Dave Gray puts together and we sell on Duckworks are not
>the same thing as blue Wal-mart tarps. Besides being way more UV
>resistant, they are not all that stretchy, and they are thick and
>strong.
painting work. I'll snag one and see how thick it is.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Gregg:
I'll defer to your experience with sailcloth, but I have to take exception with your assessment of the stretchiness polytarp. There are after all more than one kind. The heavy duty white polytarp kits that Dave Gray puts together and we sell on Duckworks are not the same thing as blue Wal-mart tarps. Besides being way more UV resistant, they are not all that stretchy, and they are thick and strong.
I made a 200 sq ft balanced lug for my Caprice with one of these kits following Jim Michalak's instructions for creating shape with darts, and the result is a sail that sets quite well. After three seasons, the sail is in fine shape - all for less than $100 (including mizzen).
I would be delighted to send you a sample (a couple of square feet) of this material for your assessment, if you are interested.
Chuck
I'll defer to your experience with sailcloth, but I have to take exception with your assessment of the stretchiness polytarp. There are after all more than one kind. The heavy duty white polytarp kits that Dave Gray puts together and we sell on Duckworks are not the same thing as blue Wal-mart tarps. Besides being way more UV resistant, they are not all that stretchy, and they are thick and strong.
I made a 200 sq ft balanced lug for my Caprice with one of these kits following Jim Michalak's instructions for creating shape with darts, and the result is a sail that sets quite well. After three seasons, the sail is in fine shape - all for less than $100 (including mizzen).
I would be delighted to send you a sample (a couple of square feet) of this material for your assessment, if you are interested.
Chuck
----- Original Message -----
From: ghartc
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2003 8:10 AM
Subject: [bolger] Re: Finer points of 4 sided sailmaking
Hi Bill,
Flat sails work, too, in the same way a lumpy daggerboard does. Gets
you out on the water rather than staying home until your gear's
perfect!
I've had a lot of new sails to do A-B tests; it's pretty amazing what
a decent sail will do. I replaced a blown-out (baggy) set of dacron
sails on an Impulse 21 (kind of a sport boat) with some brand new
Genesis mylar-fiber sails (got in trade for writing some of their
software) and immediately went from getting rounded up at 5 knots to
sailing 10 degrees higher and a knot faster with better control.
Pretty amazing.
As to shaping, sailmakers don't learn it anymore. They use a 3-d
molding program to define the flying shape (which they refine on the
water and keep in their hip pocket) and the program cuts the panels
to make that shape. To *prove* they got that shape, they apply
colored draft tapes and lie on deck looking up with a digital camera,
then analyze the shape in a shareware like the one on my website.
Even if they don't have a plotter, most will use a cutting service.
There are "retail" (e.g. sailrite) and "wholesale" (to the trade)
guys.
In the *old* days, sailmakers had lots of predrawn broadseams on
their floors, which they would transfer to the tops of the panels.
They used a lot of long battens to fair that curve by eye (just like
lofting a boat) just before cutting. The bottom of the panel above
was straight - that's how the shape's produced. Most couldn't tell
you how they choose how much curve to use - it was obvious once you
did it so long.
Next thing was "second cutting", where they cut the actual perimeter,
and a slight hollow between batten ends to prevent fluttering. You
had to do this last because the broadseaming itself would suck in the
luff curve (called fanning). After going on the boat and measuring
the mast pre-bend, you add even a little extra luff curve (which can
also be "S" shaped), which gets pushed back into the sail and adds
draft (or get pulled out by bending your mast with boom vang). Even
luff curve was measured by the old guys in inches rather than ratios -
the old guys wernt the collige boys they are today. Anyway luff
curve was critical, but could be, usually was, recut again (and
again). In fact, broadseams themselves were often opened up and
adjusted.
Stepping back a little earlier in time, say early soft dacron, the
broadseam angles were tilted quite a ways forward, which loaded the
cloth on the bias. You could get some pretty good stretch then via
halyard and control the shape. I think this is still done on some
class boats that specify dacron-only like Stars
http://sailing.about.com/library/weekly/aa091800a.htm
Further back in time was canvas (and polytarp), which was so stretchy
it often required no induced shape at all. Flip side was, you could
not control the shape either.
Gregg Carlson
>Gegg Carlson wrote : "It never *quite* gets to telling you exactley
>how to cut "X" broadseem for "Y"shape" about The Sailmakers
>Apprentice. That raises the question what do sailmakers read/do to
>learn how to "cut "X" broadseam for "Y" shape".
>
>Albert van Hulzen
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bshamblin2002" <shamblin@h...> wrote:
> thanks much to greg, craig and reed! i so enjoy learning this stuff
> and was not aware the extent to which a fuller sail cut would help.
i
> have just muddled along for years with completely flat sails. bill
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "captreed2000" <captreed@a...> wrote:
> > > Get a copy of Laine's Sailcut4 from my website,
> >
> > Gregg's advice is right on the money. I use Sailcut 4 and get
> great
> > results, even with polytarp.
> >
> > Reed
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>Further back in time was canvas (and polytarp), which was so stretchyWell, how far back ... ? <chuckle> This is a real abbreviated tour ...
>it often required no induced shape at all. Flip side was, you could
>not control the shape either.
In the 1800s flax canvas (heavy linen) was considered better than
canvas duck. The first was English, the second American. The English
would also use canvas from Egyptian cotton (longer fibers in it,
FWIW).
The Chinese adopted canvas duck widely when cheap imported duck
became available to them in the 1800s. Before that sails were of
matting.
All canvas and flax sails had shape problems. It was not until ca
1905 that it became obvious to all that there *had* to be shape in a
gaff or leg-of-mutton sail for best results. This came because people
were trying to make airplanes fly better. I believe the royal yacht
Britannia was the 1st to have all shaped, cambered sails.
Canoe sailors used "balloon silk" - whatever that was - and various
grades of light cotton.
For a long time the English thought a sail had to bag to "hold wind".
They really did learn when the yacht America came by ca 1850 w/ very
flat cotton sails and outsailed many of their boats.
Chesapeake watermen probably did not pay a lot of attention to sail
shape, other than to use a sprit to keep the sail setting flat. The
natural stretch in the canvas would contribute some shape and the
sails would work. Keeping the sail "flat" was a way of preventing
bagginess, that is, having the draft or bulge in the sail too far
back, more than imparting a particular planned shape to the sail.
I've looked at a LOT of fotos of sprint-boomed boats, and they have a
lot of wrinkles in the sail's after half. This apparently did not
bother the fishermen.
... the natural shape a sheet of cloth takes probably accounts for
the relatively decent performance of old-time lugsails, especially
dipping lugs, as long as the sailors would keep the luff tight.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Hi Bill,
Flat sails work, too, in the same way a lumpy daggerboard does. Gets
you out on the water rather than staying home until your gear's
perfect!
I've had a lot of new sails to do A-B tests; it's pretty amazing what
a decent sail will do. I replaced a blown-out (baggy) set of dacron
sails on an Impulse 21 (kind of a sport boat) with some brand new
Genesis mylar-fiber sails (got in trade for writing some of their
software) and immediately went from getting rounded up at 5 knots to
sailing 10 degrees higher and a knot faster with better control.
Pretty amazing.
As to shaping, sailmakers don't learn it anymore. They use a 3-d
molding program to define the flying shape (which they refine on the
water and keep in their hip pocket) and the program cuts the panels
to make that shape. To *prove* they got that shape, they apply
colored draft tapes and lie on deck looking up with a digital camera,
then analyze the shape in a shareware like the one on my website.
Even if they don't have a plotter, most will use a cutting service.
There are "retail" (e.g. sailrite) and "wholesale" (to the trade)
guys.
In the *old* days, sailmakers had lots of predrawn broadseams on
their floors, which they would transfer to the tops of the panels.
They used a lot of long battens to fair that curve by eye (just like
lofting a boat) just before cutting. The bottom of the panel above
was straight - that's how the shape's produced. Most couldn't tell
you how they choose how much curve to use - it was obvious once you
did it so long.
Next thing was "second cutting", where they cut the actual perimeter,
and a slight hollow between batten ends to prevent fluttering. You
had to do this last because the broadseaming itself would suck in the
luff curve (called fanning). After going on the boat and measuring
the mast pre-bend, you add even a little extra luff curve (which can
also be "S" shaped), which gets pushed back into the sail and adds
draft (or get pulled out by bending your mast with boom vang). Even
luff curve was measured by the old guys in inches rather than ratios -
the old guys wernt the collige boys they are today. Anyway luff
curve was critical, but could be, usually was, recut again (and
again). In fact, broadseams themselves were often opened up and
adjusted.
Stepping back a little earlier in time, say early soft dacron, the
broadseam angles were tilted quite a ways forward, which loaded the
cloth on the bias. You could get some pretty good stretch then via
halyard and control the shape. I think this is still done on some
class boats that specify dacron-only like Stars
http://sailing.about.com/library/weekly/aa091800a.htm
Further back in time was canvas (and polytarp), which was so stretchy
it often required no induced shape at all. Flip side was, you could
not control the shape either.
Gregg Carlson
Flat sails work, too, in the same way a lumpy daggerboard does. Gets
you out on the water rather than staying home until your gear's
perfect!
I've had a lot of new sails to do A-B tests; it's pretty amazing what
a decent sail will do. I replaced a blown-out (baggy) set of dacron
sails on an Impulse 21 (kind of a sport boat) with some brand new
Genesis mylar-fiber sails (got in trade for writing some of their
software) and immediately went from getting rounded up at 5 knots to
sailing 10 degrees higher and a knot faster with better control.
Pretty amazing.
As to shaping, sailmakers don't learn it anymore. They use a 3-d
molding program to define the flying shape (which they refine on the
water and keep in their hip pocket) and the program cuts the panels
to make that shape. To *prove* they got that shape, they apply
colored draft tapes and lie on deck looking up with a digital camera,
then analyze the shape in a shareware like the one on my website.
Even if they don't have a plotter, most will use a cutting service.
There are "retail" (e.g. sailrite) and "wholesale" (to the trade)
guys.
In the *old* days, sailmakers had lots of predrawn broadseams on
their floors, which they would transfer to the tops of the panels.
They used a lot of long battens to fair that curve by eye (just like
lofting a boat) just before cutting. The bottom of the panel above
was straight - that's how the shape's produced. Most couldn't tell
you how they choose how much curve to use - it was obvious once you
did it so long.
Next thing was "second cutting", where they cut the actual perimeter,
and a slight hollow between batten ends to prevent fluttering. You
had to do this last because the broadseaming itself would suck in the
luff curve (called fanning). After going on the boat and measuring
the mast pre-bend, you add even a little extra luff curve (which can
also be "S" shaped), which gets pushed back into the sail and adds
draft (or get pulled out by bending your mast with boom vang). Even
luff curve was measured by the old guys in inches rather than ratios -
the old guys wernt the collige boys they are today. Anyway luff
curve was critical, but could be, usually was, recut again (and
again). In fact, broadseams themselves were often opened up and
adjusted.
Stepping back a little earlier in time, say early soft dacron, the
broadseam angles were tilted quite a ways forward, which loaded the
cloth on the bias. You could get some pretty good stretch then via
halyard and control the shape. I think this is still done on some
class boats that specify dacron-only like Stars
http://sailing.about.com/library/weekly/aa091800a.htm
Further back in time was canvas (and polytarp), which was so stretchy
it often required no induced shape at all. Flip side was, you could
not control the shape either.
Gregg Carlson
>Gegg Carlson wrote : "It never *quite* gets to telling you exactley
>how to cut "X" broadseem for "Y"shape" about The Sailmakers
>Apprentice. That raises the question what do sailmakers read/do to
>learn how to "cut "X" broadseam for "Y" shape".
>
>Albert van Hulzen
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bshamblin2002" <shamblin@h...> wrote:
> thanks much to greg, craig and reed! i so enjoy learning this stuff
> and was not aware the extent to which a fuller sail cut would help.
i
> have just muddled along for years with completely flat sails. bill
>
>
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "captreed2000" <captreed@a...> wrote:
> > > Get a copy of Laine's Sailcut4 from my website,
> >
> > Gregg's advice is right on the money. I use Sailcut 4 and get
> great
> > results, even with polytarp.
> >
> > Reed
>thanks much to greg, craig and reed! i so enjoy learning this stuffThere's nothing "wrong" with a flat sail. Canoe sails were flat 100
>and was not aware the extent to which a fuller sail cut would help. i
>have just muddled along for years with completely flat sails. bill
years ago. Chinese sails are flat (though the fabric stretches). I've
made many a flat blue tarp sail. And they do work. But a flat sail is
not as powerful as a well cambered sail.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
thanks, roger, chuck and richrad and all for the advice. bill
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@s...> wrote:
> "The Sailmaker's Apprentice" by Emiliano Marino.
>
> Roger
> derbyrm@s...
>http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bshamblin2002" <shamblin@h...>
>
> > what are the fine points of designing 4 sided sails, specifically
> > 1- standing lug sails and
> > 2- loose footed sprit sails
> >
> > ??
> >
> > i have a "make your own sails" book and understand the basics of
> > putting ropes in the hems, making grommets, and that flat sails
are
> > best to windward while sails with a pocket are better than flat
> > sails, the more you are not going to windward???
> >
> > but where would one find the jedi master stuff written ?? thanks,
> > bill in nc
thanks much to greg, craig and reed! i so enjoy learning this stuff
and was not aware the extent to which a fuller sail cut would help. i
have just muddled along for years with completely flat sails. bill
and was not aware the extent to which a fuller sail cut would help. i
have just muddled along for years with completely flat sails. bill
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "captreed2000" <captreed@a...> wrote:
>
> >
> > Get a copy of Laine's Sailcut4 from my website,
>
> Gregg's advice is right on the money. I use Sailcut 4 and get
great
> results, even with polytarp.
>
> Reed
>Gregg's advice is right on the money. I use Sailcut 4 and get great
> Get a copy of Laine's Sailcut4 from my website,
results, even with polytarp.
Reed
>But, for 99% of bolger boats, you want to err on the fat side ofGregg is absolutely correct on this, and I'd add, the smaller the
>draft to provide drive.
sail, the more you want to make sure it's well-cambered ("fat") -
this based on sailing a number of different 30-50 sq ft lugsails and
small sprit sails on various canoes and CLC boats. A fat sail
provides a lot of lift compared to a flatter sail of the same size;
early airplanes also used foils we'd consider quite fat on their
wings for the same reason.
A related reason is simply that a fat sail will help you in light airs.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Hi Bill,
"The Sailmaker's Apprentice" is far and away the best text on
sailmaking, but even IT deals 99% with finishing sails (i.e. edges,
grommets, battens, etc.) It never *quite* gets to telling you exactly
how to cut "X" broadseam for "Y" shape.
Even though most sailmakers now use computers and cutters (which I
build and sell) and high-quality cloth - allowing them to precisely
control shape - what numbers they use most won't say.
But, for 99% of bolger boats, you want to err on the fat side of
draft to provide drive. Bolger boats, especially home-built, are not
close-winded because they mostly have short and crude foils in the
water and short, rather than high-aspect, foils in the air. The rigs
tend to be lightly, simply rigged or free-standing, which is to say
they'll be fat themselves with lots of external halyards. All this
disturbs the airflow futher a lot further past the sail's leading
edge than a whispy modern rig. And, the hull forms and finish
(usually) are not high-tech either. This isn't to say they are not
FAST and FUN - we did 6+ knots upwind and 10 knots off-wind a couple
weeks ago in my light schooner - but I would never get around, say, a
Melges 24 on a race course.
So, you need some draft to get moving. But, a pretty fat sail might
be 12% draft, while a pretty flat sail might be 9% deep (even less
for something superfast and low-drag like an iceboat). That's a
pretty small window to achieve on a living room floor with a stretchy
fabric like polytarp.
To complicate it, a decent sail has two more qualities. It's FAIR,
which means it's smooth whatever shape you decide on, and it's stiff,
which means it drives the boat rather than stretches on puffs. (Two
more strikes against polytarp.) Modern resin-coated dacron is strong
and stiff, so it takes and holds the shape you want, especially over
time. Luckily, all Bolger boaters ever need is the most generic,
affordable, balanced weave dacron for really beautiful low-aspect
(less than 2:1) sails. But, it's unforgiving, lumps-wise, if you
can't cut it fair.
Easy to say if you've got a huge floor or a plotter! But, while you
don't want to buy one, you can "rent" one pretty cheap. If you don't
want to be in the design loop, call Sailrite kits (good guys - use my
plotters, but don't hold that against them). But, if you want to
design your own sail and have it cut "perfectly" from some decent
stuff, here's what I would do.
Get a copy of Laine's Sailcut4 from my website,
www.carlsondesign.com. It's free and it's pretty simple to get your
sail dimensions in. Put a little positive curve on the luff - maybe
a 1/2" on a small sail and 1" on a big sail. The default shape for
the sail will be, I think, around 10%. Even that will produce a very
pretty sail. Fatten it up to maybe ~11% if you want.
The only sailmaker and sailmaking supplier I know that is willing to
take *your* file and cut it from some nice stuff is the guy that
sells my plotters, too, in St. Pete, FL. To avoid a conflict of
interest, contact me off-list and I'll give you his name.
Regards,
Gregg Carlson
(gcarlson@...)
"The Sailmaker's Apprentice" is far and away the best text on
sailmaking, but even IT deals 99% with finishing sails (i.e. edges,
grommets, battens, etc.) It never *quite* gets to telling you exactly
how to cut "X" broadseam for "Y" shape.
Even though most sailmakers now use computers and cutters (which I
build and sell) and high-quality cloth - allowing them to precisely
control shape - what numbers they use most won't say.
But, for 99% of bolger boats, you want to err on the fat side of
draft to provide drive. Bolger boats, especially home-built, are not
close-winded because they mostly have short and crude foils in the
water and short, rather than high-aspect, foils in the air. The rigs
tend to be lightly, simply rigged or free-standing, which is to say
they'll be fat themselves with lots of external halyards. All this
disturbs the airflow futher a lot further past the sail's leading
edge than a whispy modern rig. And, the hull forms and finish
(usually) are not high-tech either. This isn't to say they are not
FAST and FUN - we did 6+ knots upwind and 10 knots off-wind a couple
weeks ago in my light schooner - but I would never get around, say, a
Melges 24 on a race course.
So, you need some draft to get moving. But, a pretty fat sail might
be 12% draft, while a pretty flat sail might be 9% deep (even less
for something superfast and low-drag like an iceboat). That's a
pretty small window to achieve on a living room floor with a stretchy
fabric like polytarp.
To complicate it, a decent sail has two more qualities. It's FAIR,
which means it's smooth whatever shape you decide on, and it's stiff,
which means it drives the boat rather than stretches on puffs. (Two
more strikes against polytarp.) Modern resin-coated dacron is strong
and stiff, so it takes and holds the shape you want, especially over
time. Luckily, all Bolger boaters ever need is the most generic,
affordable, balanced weave dacron for really beautiful low-aspect
(less than 2:1) sails. But, it's unforgiving, lumps-wise, if you
can't cut it fair.
Easy to say if you've got a huge floor or a plotter! But, while you
don't want to buy one, you can "rent" one pretty cheap. If you don't
want to be in the design loop, call Sailrite kits (good guys - use my
plotters, but don't hold that against them). But, if you want to
design your own sail and have it cut "perfectly" from some decent
stuff, here's what I would do.
Get a copy of Laine's Sailcut4 from my website,
www.carlsondesign.com. It's free and it's pretty simple to get your
sail dimensions in. Put a little positive curve on the luff - maybe
a 1/2" on a small sail and 1" on a big sail. The default shape for
the sail will be, I think, around 10%. Even that will produce a very
pretty sail. Fatten it up to maybe ~11% if you want.
The only sailmaker and sailmaking supplier I know that is willing to
take *your* file and cut it from some nice stuff is the guy that
sells my plotters, too, in St. Pete, FL. To avoid a conflict of
interest, contact me off-list and I'll give you his name.
Regards,
Gregg Carlson
(gcarlson@...)
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "bshamblin2002" <shamblin@h...> wrote:
> what are the fine points of designing 4 sided sails, specifically
> 1- standing lug sails and
> 2- loose footed sprit sails
>
> ??
>
> i have a "make your own sails" book and understand the basics of
> putting ropes in the hems, making grommets, and that flat sails
are
> best to windward while sails with a pocket are better than flat
> sails, the more you are not going to windward???
>
> but where would one find the jedi master stuff written ?? thanks,
> bill in nc
homepages.apci.net/~michalak
----- Original Message -----
From: "Roger Derby" <derbyrm@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2003 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] fine points of making 4 sided sails???
> "The Sailmaker's Apprentice" by Emiliano Marino.
>
> Roger
>derbyrm@...
>http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "bshamblin2002" <shamblin@...>
>
> > what are the fine points of designing 4 sided sails, specifically
> > 1- standing lug sails and
> > 2- loose footed sprit sails
> >
> > ??
> >
> > i have a "make your own sails" book and understand the basics of
> > putting ropes in the hems, making grommets, and that flat sails are
> > best to windward while sails with a pocket are better than flat
> > sails, the more you are not going to windward???
> >
> > but where would one find the jedi master stuff written ?? thanks,
> > bill in nc
>
>
>
>
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Bill:
Jim Michalak has written a lot about lugsails. Read his essays about the subject:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/alphabetical.htm
chuck
what are the fine points of designing 4 sided sails, specifically
1- standing lug sails and
2- loose footed sprit sails
??
i have a "make your own sails" book and understand the basics of
putting ropes in the hems, making grommets, and that flat sails are
best to windward while sails with a pocket are better than flat
sails, the more you are not going to windward???
but where would one find the jedi master stuff written ?? thanks,
bill in nc
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Jim Michalak has written a lot about lugsails. Read his essays about the subject:
http://marina.fortunecity.com/breakwater/274/michalak/alphabetical.htm
chuck
what are the fine points of designing 4 sided sails, specifically
1- standing lug sails and
2- loose footed sprit sails
??
i have a "make your own sails" book and understand the basics of
putting ropes in the hems, making grommets, and that flat sails are
best to windward while sails with a pocket are better than flat
sails, the more you are not going to windward???
but where would one find the jedi master stuff written ?? thanks,
bill in nc
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
"The Sailmaker's Apprentice" by Emiliano Marino.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "bshamblin2002" <shamblin@...>
> what are the fine points of designing 4 sided sails, specifically
> 1- standing lug sails and
> 2- loose footed sprit sails
>
> ??
>
> i have a "make your own sails" book and understand the basics of
> putting ropes in the hems, making grommets, and that flat sails are
> best to windward while sails with a pocket are better than flat
> sails, the more you are not going to windward???
>
> but where would one find the jedi master stuff written ?? thanks,
> bill in nc
what are the fine points of designing 4 sided sails, specifically
1- standing lug sails and
2- loose footed sprit sails
??
i have a "make your own sails" book and understand the basics of
putting ropes in the hems, making grommets, and that flat sails are
best to windward while sails with a pocket are better than flat
sails, the more you are not going to windward???
but where would one find the jedi master stuff written ?? thanks,
bill in nc
1- standing lug sails and
2- loose footed sprit sails
??
i have a "make your own sails" book and understand the basics of
putting ropes in the hems, making grommets, and that flat sails are
best to windward while sails with a pocket are better than flat
sails, the more you are not going to windward???
but where would one find the jedi master stuff written ?? thanks,
bill in nc