Re: Sunday chat?
John Bell and I are online now, come on in!
I'm there...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 10:15 PM
Subject: [bolger] Sunday chat?
| Hi all, anyone coming in?
|
| BH
|
Hi all, anyone coming in?
BH
BH
> Perhaps a better route or at least a suggestion would be toHas anyone else ever noticed how good craftsmen always seem to think
> develope clean and neat work practices.
that improved technique is the solution to all the problems of us
klutzes and wood butchers.. A tedious habit they have.
As if craftmanship could be learned by application and practice!
Oh, it can? I didn't know.
Peter
About sanding epoxy, I can talk about my experience:
We generally follow these steps:
1- Coat generously the wood to glass
2- Wet generously the mat
3- Place the mat in place
4- let it dry until it does not move but not dry
5- Use and epoxy putty to fill the waves (like 1034
from epoxytech)
6- let it dry until sanding. It will give you a smooth
finish with few corrections.
The good thing with this way is that this putty sand
very easily, so you never have to sand the direct
epoxy. You have to apply the putty before everything
is dry to have a chemical bond. So you have to
calculate what you can do in one day, if not you will
have to sand....and this is what we try to avoid for
all of us
Jean et gaby
Le Cabotin
__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
magasinage.yahoo.ca
We generally follow these steps:
1- Coat generously the wood to glass
2- Wet generously the mat
3- Place the mat in place
4- let it dry until it does not move but not dry
5- Use and epoxy putty to fill the waves (like 1034
from epoxytech)
6- let it dry until sanding. It will give you a smooth
finish with few corrections.
The good thing with this way is that this putty sand
very easily, so you never have to sand the direct
epoxy. You have to apply the putty before everything
is dry to have a chemical bond. So you have to
calculate what you can do in one day, if not you will
have to sand....and this is what we try to avoid for
all of us
Jean et gaby
Le Cabotin
__________________________________________________________
Lèche-vitrine ou lèche-écran ?
magasinage.yahoo.ca
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "sctree" <sctree@d...> wrote:
I've only sanded two floors with the commercial floor sanders and
absolutely hated the experience.Nothing seemed to go right but the
floors came out looking half decent despite my varied griefs.
I too read of Bolgers recommendation of using these sanders on
large flat panels and although very attractive as an "idea",it does
have its limits.For example,I cannot practically concieve of using
one of these sanders on my up-turned bottom with all of its
curves.Next would be the assembling of these large panels.Whether one
scarfs the plywood together or uses the Payson Fiberglass trick,the
area to be sanded is rather narrow and these commercial sanders wider
then the scarf zone so there is the risk of chewing up the adjacent
wood which will only mean more filling and sanding. For situations
where one has completely glassed the large assembled panel,it may
have some usefullness but this would imply experience with one of
these machines.And that is the "weakness" of this idea.I believe that
for someone who perhaps sands floors for a living,they have developed
the neccessary motor skills and experience to properly handle one of
these machines the way most of us can handle a palm
sander.Otherewise,the learning curve,for the inexperienced, is going
to be an expensive one as nicks and gouges begin to pepper the panel
and the sandpaper clogs up with epoxy and needs frequent
replacement.Keep in mind too that the large panel to be sanded is
going to have to be laid dead flat somewhere to pull off the sanding
job.
Perhaps a better route or at least a suggestion would be to develope
clean and neat work practices.That is,get equiped with a range of
putty knife sizes to assist is cleaning up excess epoxy before it
cures.Get some of those plastic "blades" that plasters use and give
the cloth a good squeegee pass to keep the epoxy/glass ration
tight.Follow established practices for glassing,ie 3 coats of
epoxy,one to saturate the wood and cloth,one to fill the weave and a
final to fill the little pockets exposed from the sanding of the
second coat.Don't try to "cheat" by loading up with too much
epoxy.You won't gain any strength,it may become brittle,and you'll
end up sanding most of it away....expensive dust!Use a good sandpaper
like Siafast BLUE LINE,40 grit.This paper makes sanding cured epoxy
as easy as sanding chalk.Take your time to pay attention to the
little details and try to see how the finished"product" is going to
look.This is the time to fair and correct any little bits of
unevenness that may have crept into the job.It will be darned
frustrating to correct things after she is all painted and maybe even
afloat.
Mind you,this is all just my own opinion and how I like to do things
(some may say I have finally cooked me brain out in the boat yard).I
like going for the"yacht" look.....others may prefer the so
called "workboat" finish and that's all right too....but you won't
see me renting any commercial grade floor sanders for my boat,at
least not until I decide to build me a workboat and go off fishin'
somewhere :-)
Sorry about the length of this,I should have stopped after the first
paragraph..............
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,just back from sanding about 280 sq.ft. with my palm
sander and very pleased with the results,from along the shores of the
St.Lawrence............
>He
> About sanding, I see Bolger is recommending floor sanders nowadays.
> says rent the big commercial floor sander and do all the panelswhile
> they're flat....Rick,
>
> Has anyone done this?
>
> Rick
I've only sanded two floors with the commercial floor sanders and
absolutely hated the experience.Nothing seemed to go right but the
floors came out looking half decent despite my varied griefs.
I too read of Bolgers recommendation of using these sanders on
large flat panels and although very attractive as an "idea",it does
have its limits.For example,I cannot practically concieve of using
one of these sanders on my up-turned bottom with all of its
curves.Next would be the assembling of these large panels.Whether one
scarfs the plywood together or uses the Payson Fiberglass trick,the
area to be sanded is rather narrow and these commercial sanders wider
then the scarf zone so there is the risk of chewing up the adjacent
wood which will only mean more filling and sanding. For situations
where one has completely glassed the large assembled panel,it may
have some usefullness but this would imply experience with one of
these machines.And that is the "weakness" of this idea.I believe that
for someone who perhaps sands floors for a living,they have developed
the neccessary motor skills and experience to properly handle one of
these machines the way most of us can handle a palm
sander.Otherewise,the learning curve,for the inexperienced, is going
to be an expensive one as nicks and gouges begin to pepper the panel
and the sandpaper clogs up with epoxy and needs frequent
replacement.Keep in mind too that the large panel to be sanded is
going to have to be laid dead flat somewhere to pull off the sanding
job.
Perhaps a better route or at least a suggestion would be to develope
clean and neat work practices.That is,get equiped with a range of
putty knife sizes to assist is cleaning up excess epoxy before it
cures.Get some of those plastic "blades" that plasters use and give
the cloth a good squeegee pass to keep the epoxy/glass ration
tight.Follow established practices for glassing,ie 3 coats of
epoxy,one to saturate the wood and cloth,one to fill the weave and a
final to fill the little pockets exposed from the sanding of the
second coat.Don't try to "cheat" by loading up with too much
epoxy.You won't gain any strength,it may become brittle,and you'll
end up sanding most of it away....expensive dust!Use a good sandpaper
like Siafast BLUE LINE,40 grit.This paper makes sanding cured epoxy
as easy as sanding chalk.Take your time to pay attention to the
little details and try to see how the finished"product" is going to
look.This is the time to fair and correct any little bits of
unevenness that may have crept into the job.It will be darned
frustrating to correct things after she is all painted and maybe even
afloat.
Mind you,this is all just my own opinion and how I like to do things
(some may say I have finally cooked me brain out in the boat yard).I
like going for the"yacht" look.....others may prefer the so
called "workboat" finish and that's all right too....but you won't
see me renting any commercial grade floor sanders for my boat,at
least not until I decide to build me a workboat and go off fishin'
somewhere :-)
Sorry about the length of this,I should have stopped after the first
paragraph..............
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,just back from sanding about 280 sq.ft. with my palm
sander and very pleased with the results,from along the shores of the
St.Lawrence............
> Have any of youYou mean you don't have a pair of "when I take them off they stand up
> > guys learned to put on grubbies for boatbuilding yet?
>
> Yup! Learn't that one a long time ago,especially with epoxy! I've
> just about worn out the pants since the start of this summer and am
> hoping they can last a few more days since there is one last big
> epoxy session left on the bottom this week.
in the corner by themselves" epoxy coated pants? You have to make a
slit in them just above the knees in order to bend at the knees.....
> Sincerely,About sanding, I see Bolger is recommending floor sanders nowadays. He
> Peter Lenihan,well rested after a day off an' rarin' to get a 08:00
> hrs. start tomorrow for a sanding marathon like I've never known,from
> along the shores of the St.Lawrence............
says rent the big commercial floor sander and do all the panels while
they're flat....
Has anyone done this?
Rick
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
Have any of you
just about worn out the pants since the start of this summer and am
hoping they can last a few more days since there is one last big
epoxy session left on the bottom this week.All the T-shirts have been
donated from the Quebec Bar Association(thanks to my Pesky Crew) and
I do look forward to burning the lot this fall.It's amazing the
colours you can spot in a cured epoxy/denim/cotton fire.......
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,well rested after a day off an' rarin' to get a 08:00
hrs. start tomorrow for a sanding marathon like I've never known,from
along the shores of the St.Lawrence............
wrote:
Have any of you
> guys learned to put on grubbies for boatbuilding yet?Yup! Learn't that one a long time ago,especially with epoxy! I've
just about worn out the pants since the start of this summer and am
hoping they can last a few more days since there is one last big
epoxy session left on the bottom this week.All the T-shirts have been
donated from the Quebec Bar Association(thanks to my Pesky Crew) and
I do look forward to burning the lot this fall.It's amazing the
colours you can spot in a cured epoxy/denim/cotton fire.......
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,well rested after a day off an' rarin' to get a 08:00
hrs. start tomorrow for a sanding marathon like I've never known,from
along the shores of the St.Lawrence............
Lo siento mucho Stephan, yo nessissito a hablar "chat". La misma de
charlando y platicandos. Dispense me, por favor.
For everyone elso, sorry, dang typos....
I'm going over to the chat room now. Just finsihed painting the
Duckworks logo and sign, plus the World Food Program's logo and
slogan on the two TIMS units I made today.
See ya' n der'!
Bruce Hector
Covered in U.N. blue and Duckworks yellow, having recently ruined yet
another set of clothes, painting in good street wear. Have any of you
guys learned to put on grubbies for boatbuilding yet?
charlando y platicandos. Dispense me, por favor.
For everyone elso, sorry, dang typos....
I'm going over to the chat room now. Just finsihed painting the
Duckworks logo and sign, plus the World Food Program's logo and
slogan on the two TIMS units I made today.
See ya' n der'!
Bruce Hector
Covered in U.N. blue and Duckworks yellow, having recently ruined yet
another set of clothes, painting in good street wear. Have any of you
guys learned to put on grubbies for boatbuilding yet?
whats a schat?or do ya mean a tchat?to much food and drinks is
bad for health and brains,how is that carrier going by the way?
looking from above in my Funy Flying Floating Flee,so be very
carefull cause I will only say this ones. Hasta la Vista Hombre
Looked up schat in babbelfishtranslationdirectandfast.com
schat is treasure,man use it to call their honey?
are you looking for some secret rendez vous in here??
Tell us all Bruce,so aint no secret anymore
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector"
<bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
bad for health and brains,how is that carrier going by the way?
looking from above in my Funy Flying Floating Flee,so be very
carefull cause I will only say this ones. Hasta la Vista Hombre
Looked up schat in babbelfishtranslationdirectandfast.com
schat is treasure,man use it to call their honey?
are you looking for some secret rendez vous in here??
Tell us all Bruce,so aint no secret anymore
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector"
<bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> I'll be online later tonight, don't know exactly what time.Food
>
> Dinner in awhile, back to the shop to hand paint the World
> Program logo on their TIMS unit, (I slapped two units togethertoday,
> Duckworks and WFP, painted the DW unit already) then, if theweather
> cooperates, a row around the front of Kingston to PortsmouthOlympic
> Harbour. Which of course will require that I reward myself for a3
> mile row with a pint or two. If the winds don't cooperate, I'llmake
> the earlier time.
>
> Should see me on between 10 and 11 EST.
>
> See ya'all then.
>
> Bruce Hector
I'll be online later tonight, don't know exactly what time.
Dinner in awhile, back to the shop to hand paint the World Food
Program logo on their TIMS unit, (I slapped two units together today,
Duckworks and WFP, painted the DW unit already) then, if the weather
cooperates, a row around the front of Kingston to Portsmouth Olympic
Harbour. Which of course will require that I reward myself for a 3
mile row with a pint or two. If the winds don't cooperate, I'll make
the earlier time.
Should see me on between 10 and 11 EST.
See ya'all then.
Bruce Hector
Dinner in awhile, back to the shop to hand paint the World Food
Program logo on their TIMS unit, (I slapped two units together today,
Duckworks and WFP, painted the DW unit already) then, if the weather
cooperates, a row around the front of Kingston to Portsmouth Olympic
Harbour. Which of course will require that I reward myself for a 3
mile row with a pint or two. If the winds don't cooperate, I'll make
the earlier time.
Should see me on between 10 and 11 EST.
See ya'all then.
Bruce Hector