Re: Faux Decking
--- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:
The only picture I have,and it isn't the best shot,is here in the
files,click on "head jpg";
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Micro/Lenihans%27%20%20%
22LESTAT%22%20/
It is also a very BIG photo so may take some time to load.
sincerely,
peter lenihan
>Tom,
> Do you have any pictures of the deck on your Micro?
>
The only picture I have,and it isn't the best shot,is here in the
files,click on "head jpg";
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/bolger/files/Micro/Lenihans%27%20%20%
22LESTAT%22%20/
It is also a very BIG photo so may take some time to load.
sincerely,
peter lenihan
>used
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...>
> wrote:
> > --- In bolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:
> > > Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just
> plywood?
> > >
> > Tom,
> > I did just that for the foreward well deck on my MICRO.I
> > 3/4" mahogany plywood.1/2",you
> > I do not know the specified thickness of the SNEAKEASY fore
> deck
> > but it must be no more then 1/4".This will not leavemuch room for
> the
> > effect you are looking for.
> > However,if the specs call for a thicker decking,like
> > might just be able to pull it off.planks
> > Here is how I would proceed;
> > 1)Measure and cut the plywood to shape
> > 2)Trace out the lines of your plank"seams"
> > 3)Try and imagine how they will end as each "plank" comes to
> the
> > edge of the deck.That is,will you also be drawing in a kingplank
> and
> > covering board to achieve the laid deck"look"? Or will you have a
> > herring bone effect on center with just the nibs cut into the
> > coveringboard? If you avoid either approach and just run the
> > off into thin slices at the edge of the deck,it willmore
> look....ah...not
> > very nice:-)
> > 4)Once you have settled on a plank layout,cut a kerf no
> > then about 3/16" deep,depending on how thick your deck is.epoxy"glue"
> > 5)Install your deck onto the boat.
> > 6) Completely seal, with epoxy, the kerfs and
> deck.Ideally,you
> > would use a penetrating sealer epoxy and not the thicker
> > 7)Once the exposed wood inside the kerf stops soaking upthe
> > epoxy sealer,stop adding the epoxy and let this cure.the
> > 8) Once cured,go into each and every kerf with a piece of
> > tightly folded sand paper, no thicker then your kerf, and give a
> good
> > sanding.(a good sanding is when you no longer see the gloss of
> > epoxy)up,go
> > 8)Lay down making tape along the edge of each kerf their
> entire
> > length.
> > 9)Lay in a nice bead of either black or white Sikaflex
> compound
> > or other similar product.
> > 10) Once all the seams have been"layed",remove the masking
> > tape.
> > 11) Allow the seam compound to fully cure.
> > 12) Using an 80 grit paper,sand your entire deck,paying
> > particular attention to the edges of your seams.
> > 13) Once everthing hase been nicely sanded and cleaned
> > over the deck once more with a couple of coats of epoxy
> > sealer,lightly sanding between coats.
> > 14) Apply about 6 to 10 coats of UV varnish,following the
> > manufacture's instructions to a "T".
> >
> > That's how I did my MICRO's well deck and it has maintained its
> like
> > new look through 10 years of Canadian style seasons.
> >
> > Hope this helps for your SNEAKEASY
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Peter Lenihan
Fellow Bolgeradoes,
Here's a link to a product I'm itching to try SOMEWHERE, having seen samples
at last year's Annapolis Sail Show. This stuff actually looks like real
laid teak with black seams, follows curves and contours, and can be scrubbed
and cleaned without going 'off' (and no, I have no commercial connection,
only an urge to try it).
The company has a plant in the US
(http://www.flexiteek.as/default.asp?page=america). I know nothing about
pricing. Looks like they're trying to set up installers instead of dealers.
David Romasco
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Here's a link to a product I'm itching to try SOMEWHERE, having seen samples
at last year's Annapolis Sail Show. This stuff actually looks like real
laid teak with black seams, follows curves and contours, and can be scrubbed
and cleaned without going 'off' (and no, I have no commercial connection,
only an urge to try it).
The company has a plant in the US
(http://www.flexiteek.as/default.asp?page=america). I know nothing about
pricing. Looks like they're trying to set up installers instead of dealers.
David Romasco
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks John.
Once I get started, I'll post a few pics.
Tom
Once I get started, I'll post a few pics.
Tom
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, John Ewing <john.ewing@s...> wrote:
> I did something like this to tiddly up the meranti decks of my Surf,
> etching in grooves and finishing with Sikkens Cetol marine varnish.
I
> think I can say it worked out well.
>
> JohnE.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tom Rund [mailto:trund1024@y...]
> Sent: August 28, 2003 12:37 PM
> To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [bolger] Faux Decking
>
> Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just plywood?
>
> I was thinking that it could be done for the sneakeasy. I figure
that
> I could make saw kerfs in the plywood before it is put on the boat.
> They would mimick the laid deck seams. I would then lay in the
white
> goo and varnish over the whole thing.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> I noticed on Fritz's sneakeasy that the reliefs cuts he made to
bend
> the plywood over the deck crown give the illusion of a laid deck
from
> underneath. Perhaps this could be done leaving the saw kerfs on the
> topside?
>
> Tom
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred'
posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
>http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Hi Fritz,
Thanks for the reply. I also sent you an email. The plans should be
arriving in the mail any day now. In the mean time, I'm enjoying your
construction photos. You're right, it may just be 'less hard' to lay
a deck in the normal fashion. That should be a great learning
experience as I've never done that before.
Tom
Thanks for the reply. I also sent you an email. The plans should be
arriving in the mail any day now. In the mean time, I'm enjoying your
construction photos. You're right, it may just be 'less hard' to lay
a deck in the normal fashion. That should be a great learning
experience as I've never done that before.
Tom
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Fritz Funk <fritzf@a...> wrote:
> Tom,
>
> On Sneakeasy the deck curve is pretty radical up forward for 1/4"
plywood -
> some guys have laid up two laminates of 1/8" or doorskin to help
with that
> (a several report busting 1/4" plywood - mine was talking to me).
You're
> correct, I did score the underside of my 1/4" ply to help with the
bend.
> However, you can see slight "facets" where the curvature changes at
the
> scores. Might give you a desirable "plank" effect for your
project. Its
> touchy though with that radical curvature - right about at the
breaking
> limit, depending on what kind of ply you're using.
>
> The "real" planked deck wouldn't be much harder (or maybe simpler)
to do
> than the grooved and filled plywood arrangement IMHO - Bolger has
some
> alternate deck framing arrangements for a planked deck sketched in
on the
> Sneakeasy plans.
>
> --Fritz
Peter,
Thanks for the detailed reply. When the plans arrive, I'll pour over
them and consider you method for the deck. The deck curvature is
quite severe on the Sneakeasy, so it may be easier to just put in a
normal laid deck. According to Fritz, Mr. Bolger includes some
variations for the forward decking with the plans so I will most
likely have many options.
Do you have any pictures of the deck on your Micro?
Tom
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
Thanks for the detailed reply. When the plans arrive, I'll pour over
them and consider you method for the deck. The deck curvature is
quite severe on the Sneakeasy, so it may be easier to just put in a
normal laid deck. According to Fritz, Mr. Bolger includes some
variations for the forward decking with the plans so I will most
likely have many options.
Do you have any pictures of the deck on your Micro?
Tom
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Peter Lenihan" <ellengaest@b...>
wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:plywood?
> > Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just
> >deck
> Tom,
> I did just that for the foreward well deck on my MICRO.I used
> 3/4" mahogany plywood.
> I do not know the specified thickness of the SNEAKEASY fore
> but it must be no more then 1/4".This will not leavemuch room forthe
> effect you are looking for.the
> However,if the specs call for a thicker decking,like 1/2",you
> might just be able to pull it off.
> Here is how I would proceed;
> 1)Measure and cut the plywood to shape
> 2)Trace out the lines of your plank"seams"
> 3)Try and imagine how they will end as each "plank" comes to
> edge of the deck.That is,will you also be drawing in a kingplankand
> covering board to achieve the laid deck"look"? Or will you have alook....ah...not
> herring bone effect on center with just the nibs cut into the
> coveringboard? If you avoid either approach and just run the planks
> off into thin slices at the edge of the deck,it will
> very nice:-)deck.Ideally,you
> 4)Once you have settled on a plank layout,cut a kerf no more
> then about 3/16" deep,depending on how thick your deck is.
> 5)Install your deck onto the boat.
> 6) Completely seal, with epoxy, the kerfs and
> would use a penetrating sealer epoxy and not the thicker epoxy"glue"good
> 7)Once the exposed wood inside the kerf stops soaking up the
> epoxy sealer,stop adding the epoxy and let this cure.
> 8) Once cured,go into each and every kerf with a piece of
> tightly folded sand paper, no thicker then your kerf, and give a
> sanding.(a good sanding is when you no longer see the gloss of theentire
> epoxy)
> 8)Lay down making tape along the edge of each kerf their
> length.compound
> 9)Lay in a nice bead of either black or white Sikaflex
> or other similar product.like
> 10) Once all the seams have been"layed",remove the masking
> tape.
> 11) Allow the seam compound to fully cure.
> 12) Using an 80 grit paper,sand your entire deck,paying
> particular attention to the edges of your seams.
> 13) Once everthing hase been nicely sanded and cleaned up,go
> over the deck once more with a couple of coats of epoxy
> sealer,lightly sanding between coats.
> 14) Apply about 6 to 10 coats of UV varnish,following the
> manufacture's instructions to a "T".
>
> That's how I did my MICRO's well deck and it has maintained its
> new look through 10 years of Canadian style seasons.
>
> Hope this helps for your SNEAKEASY
>
> Sincerely,
> Peter Lenihan
Tom,
On Sneakeasy the deck curve is pretty radical up forward for 1/4" plywood -
some guys have laid up two laminates of 1/8" or doorskin to help with that
(a several report busting 1/4" plywood - mine was talking to me). You're
correct, I did score the underside of my 1/4" ply to help with the bend.
However, you can see slight "facets" where the curvature changes at the
scores. Might give you a desirable "plank" effect for your project. Its
touchy though with that radical curvature - right about at the breaking
limit, depending on what kind of ply you're using.
The "real" planked deck wouldn't be much harder (or maybe simpler) to do
than the grooved and filled plywood arrangement IMHO - Bolger has some
alternate deck framing arrangements for a planked deck sketched in on the
Sneakeasy plans.
--Fritz
On Sneakeasy the deck curve is pretty radical up forward for 1/4" plywood -
some guys have laid up two laminates of 1/8" or doorskin to help with that
(a several report busting 1/4" plywood - mine was talking to me). You're
correct, I did score the underside of my 1/4" ply to help with the bend.
However, you can see slight "facets" where the curvature changes at the
scores. Might give you a desirable "plank" effect for your project. Its
touchy though with that radical curvature - right about at the breaking
limit, depending on what kind of ply you're using.
The "real" planked deck wouldn't be much harder (or maybe simpler) to do
than the grooved and filled plywood arrangement IMHO - Bolger has some
alternate deck framing arrangements for a planked deck sketched in on the
Sneakeasy plans.
--Fritz
Oh, yes, I sealed it with epoxy before applying varnish.
JohnE.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Ewing [mailto:john.ewing@...]
Sent: August 28, 2003 4:01 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bolger] Faux Decking
I did something like this to tiddly up the meranti decks of my Surf,
etching in grooves and finishing with Sikkens Cetol marine varnish. I
think I can say it worked out well.
JohnE.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Rund [mailto:trund1024@...]
Sent: August 28, 2003 12:37 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Faux Decking
Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just plywood?
I was thinking that it could be done for the sneakeasy. I figure that
I could make saw kerfs in the plywood before it is put on the boat.
They would mimick the laid deck seams. I would then lay in the white
goo and varnish over the whole thing.
Any thoughts?
I noticed on Fritz's sneakeasy that the reliefs cuts he made to bend
the plywood over the deck crown give the illusion of a laid deck from
underneath. Perhaps this could be done leaving the saw kerfs on the
topside?
Tom
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
JohnE.
-----Original Message-----
From: John Ewing [mailto:john.ewing@...]
Sent: August 28, 2003 4:01 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [bolger] Faux Decking
I did something like this to tiddly up the meranti decks of my Surf,
etching in grooves and finishing with Sikkens Cetol marine varnish. I
think I can say it worked out well.
JohnE.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Rund [mailto:trund1024@...]
Sent: August 28, 2003 12:37 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Faux Decking
Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just plywood?
I was thinking that it could be done for the sneakeasy. I figure that
I could make saw kerfs in the plywood before it is put on the boat.
They would mimick the laid deck seams. I would then lay in the white
goo and varnish over the whole thing.
Any thoughts?
I noticed on Fritz's sneakeasy that the reliefs cuts he made to bend
the plywood over the deck crown give the illusion of a laid deck from
underneath. Perhaps this could be done leaving the saw kerfs on the
topside?
Tom
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
I did something like this to tiddly up the meranti decks of my Surf,
etching in grooves and finishing with Sikkens Cetol marine varnish. I
think I can say it worked out well.
JohnE.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Rund [mailto:trund1024@...]
Sent: August 28, 2003 12:37 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Faux Decking
Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just plywood?
I was thinking that it could be done for the sneakeasy. I figure that
I could make saw kerfs in the plywood before it is put on the boat.
They would mimick the laid deck seams. I would then lay in the white
goo and varnish over the whole thing.
Any thoughts?
I noticed on Fritz's sneakeasy that the reliefs cuts he made to bend
the plywood over the deck crown give the illusion of a laid deck from
underneath. Perhaps this could be done leaving the saw kerfs on the
topside?
Tom
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
etching in grooves and finishing with Sikkens Cetol marine varnish. I
think I can say it worked out well.
JohnE.
-----Original Message-----
From: Tom Rund [mailto:trund1024@...]
Sent: August 28, 2003 12:37 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [bolger] Faux Decking
Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just plywood?
I was thinking that it could be done for the sneakeasy. I figure that
I could make saw kerfs in the plywood before it is put on the boat.
They would mimick the laid deck seams. I would then lay in the white
goo and varnish over the whole thing.
Any thoughts?
I noticed on Fritz's sneakeasy that the reliefs cuts he made to bend
the plywood over the deck crown give the illusion of a laid deck from
underneath. Perhaps this could be done leaving the saw kerfs on the
topside?
Tom
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Tom Rund" <trund1024@y...> wrote:
I did just that for the foreward well deck on my MICRO.I used
3/4" mahogany plywood.
I do not know the specified thickness of the SNEAKEASY fore deck
but it must be no more then 1/4".This will not leavemuch room for the
effect you are looking for.
However,if the specs call for a thicker decking,like 1/2",you
might just be able to pull it off.
Here is how I would proceed;
1)Measure and cut the plywood to shape
2)Trace out the lines of your plank"seams"
3)Try and imagine how they will end as each "plank" comes to the
edge of the deck.That is,will you also be drawing in a kingplank and
covering board to achieve the laid deck"look"? Or will you have a
herring bone effect on center with just the nibs cut into the
coveringboard? If you avoid either approach and just run the planks
off into thin slices at the edge of the deck,it will look....ah...not
very nice:-)
4)Once you have settled on a plank layout,cut a kerf no more
then about 3/16" deep,depending on how thick your deck is.
5)Install your deck onto the boat.
6) Completely seal, with epoxy, the kerfs and deck.Ideally,you
would use a penetrating sealer epoxy and not the thicker epoxy"glue"
7)Once the exposed wood inside the kerf stops soaking up the
epoxy sealer,stop adding the epoxy and let this cure.
8) Once cured,go into each and every kerf with a piece of
tightly folded sand paper, no thicker then your kerf, and give a good
sanding.(a good sanding is when you no longer see the gloss of the
epoxy)
8)Lay down making tape along the edge of each kerf their entire
length.
9)Lay in a nice bead of either black or white Sikaflex compound
or other similar product.
10) Once all the seams have been"layed",remove the masking
tape.
11) Allow the seam compound to fully cure.
12) Using an 80 grit paper,sand your entire deck,paying
particular attention to the edges of your seams.
13) Once everthing hase been nicely sanded and cleaned up,go
over the deck once more with a couple of coats of epoxy
sealer,lightly sanding between coats.
14) Apply about 6 to 10 coats of UV varnish,following the
manufacture's instructions to a "T".
That's how I did my MICRO's well deck and it has maintained its like
new look through 10 years of Canadian style seasons.
Hope this helps for your SNEAKEASY
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just plywood?Tom,
>
I did just that for the foreward well deck on my MICRO.I used
3/4" mahogany plywood.
I do not know the specified thickness of the SNEAKEASY fore deck
but it must be no more then 1/4".This will not leavemuch room for the
effect you are looking for.
However,if the specs call for a thicker decking,like 1/2",you
might just be able to pull it off.
Here is how I would proceed;
1)Measure and cut the plywood to shape
2)Trace out the lines of your plank"seams"
3)Try and imagine how they will end as each "plank" comes to the
edge of the deck.That is,will you also be drawing in a kingplank and
covering board to achieve the laid deck"look"? Or will you have a
herring bone effect on center with just the nibs cut into the
coveringboard? If you avoid either approach and just run the planks
off into thin slices at the edge of the deck,it will look....ah...not
very nice:-)
4)Once you have settled on a plank layout,cut a kerf no more
then about 3/16" deep,depending on how thick your deck is.
5)Install your deck onto the boat.
6) Completely seal, with epoxy, the kerfs and deck.Ideally,you
would use a penetrating sealer epoxy and not the thicker epoxy"glue"
7)Once the exposed wood inside the kerf stops soaking up the
epoxy sealer,stop adding the epoxy and let this cure.
8) Once cured,go into each and every kerf with a piece of
tightly folded sand paper, no thicker then your kerf, and give a good
sanding.(a good sanding is when you no longer see the gloss of the
epoxy)
8)Lay down making tape along the edge of each kerf their entire
length.
9)Lay in a nice bead of either black or white Sikaflex compound
or other similar product.
10) Once all the seams have been"layed",remove the masking
tape.
11) Allow the seam compound to fully cure.
12) Using an 80 grit paper,sand your entire deck,paying
particular attention to the edges of your seams.
13) Once everthing hase been nicely sanded and cleaned up,go
over the deck once more with a couple of coats of epoxy
sealer,lightly sanding between coats.
14) Apply about 6 to 10 coats of UV varnish,following the
manufacture's instructions to a "T".
That's how I did my MICRO's well deck and it has maintained its like
new look through 10 years of Canadian style seasons.
Hope this helps for your SNEAKEASY
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Has anyone ever tried to replicate a laid deck using just plywood?
I was thinking that it could be done for the sneakeasy. I figure that
I could make saw kerfs in the plywood before it is put on the boat.
They would mimick the laid deck seams. I would then lay in the white
goo and varnish over the whole thing.
Any thoughts?
I noticed on Fritz's sneakeasy that the reliefs cuts he made to bend
the plywood over the deck crown give the illusion of a laid deck from
underneath. Perhaps this could be done leaving the saw kerfs on the
topside?
Tom
I was thinking that it could be done for the sneakeasy. I figure that
I could make saw kerfs in the plywood before it is put on the boat.
They would mimick the laid deck seams. I would then lay in the white
goo and varnish over the whole thing.
Any thoughts?
I noticed on Fritz's sneakeasy that the reliefs cuts he made to bend
the plywood over the deck crown give the illusion of a laid deck from
underneath. Perhaps this could be done leaving the saw kerfs on the
topside?
Tom