Re: sputtering 4 strokes
While my 199x vintage Evinrude 'Yachtwin' is not a '4-stroke' it is just
as susceptible to 'gas contamination' as any engine. I do a few simple
procedures on a regular basis and really have had no problems. In fact,
I told another Potter owner to follow them and it cured HIS engine
stalling problems . . . I once had to tow him in because the engine
'died'.
Mine has a 3 gal. 'remote' tank, while his had a smaller capacity
'internal tank' so I know this works with both. Condensation can be a
lot more than you realize; and the effect on the fuel a lot greater with
even a small amount. I always add about a 'capful' of 'Store-N-Start'
stabilizer to the tank on fill up. If I add more gas, I'll also add a
bit more of the stabilizer. Supposedly, this stuff also has a 'dryer'
component, but adding a occasional 'dash' of 'dollar store' stuff
wouldn't hurt if you haven't used the gas in a long time. {ALL the
'cheap stuff' is Methanol; the stuff that has Ethanol {or
Isopropyl }WILL SAY SO on the 'components' list. In addition, I always
make sure the carburetor bowl is EMPTY at the end of the day. I leave
the engine on a fast idle, and disconnect the fuel line . . . AT THE
TANK . . . and hang that end on the boom 'pigtail' so it drains the line
and carb. No 'sludge', gum, or varnish build-up. Annually, I clean or
replace the fuel filter in the engine, and inspect and/or replace the
plugs. When the boat was 'slipped' we used an old 'car cover' for a boat
cover, and kept the fuel container shaded and the vent closed. Now that
she is on a mooring, and un-shaded, we leave it open . . . so the
plastic tank doesn't 'flex' as much. STILL starts immediately, and
hasn't stalled out yet.
With the other guy's 3.5 motor . . . 1 - DUMP {properly, of course}the
old fuel and FLUSH the tank well with fresh fuel. 2 - DRAIN & flush the
carburetor 3 - CLEAN the internal fuel filter 4 - REFILL with FRESH
fuel/ STABILIZER/oil mix & and run engine at mid throttle {or greater}
for at least 30 minutes. After doing this, and following my 'normal'
procedures, he had NO MORE stalling problems.
On a '4-stroke' note, I had similar 'sputtering' problems with my old
{1984}Toyota Pick-up, and also my 'new' 1995 Isuzu. The 'Toy' was very
fuel efficient, and would go for weeks between fill-ups. It also sat in
the drive more that it was on the road. A steel tank, in cool weather
picks up a good amount of condensation. In addition, because the gas &
water AREN'T mixed {THAT'S what the 'dryer' does}, the water
ACCUMULATES. Even with the modern 'emission proof' non-vented tanks,
this does happen. When I started to have a rough running engine, I would
immediately added a couple of pints {of dryer}to the tank. By the way,
those expensive 'Fuel Injector Cleaners' that suggest adding to each
tank - they are basically ALCOHOL. I typically add a pint of Isopropyl
dryer at least once a month, during the winter. Also, simply keeping the
tank full reduces the tendency . . . I try not to let my fuel level get
below 1/4 tank, at any season.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
as susceptible to 'gas contamination' as any engine. I do a few simple
procedures on a regular basis and really have had no problems. In fact,
I told another Potter owner to follow them and it cured HIS engine
stalling problems . . . I once had to tow him in because the engine
'died'.
Mine has a 3 gal. 'remote' tank, while his had a smaller capacity
'internal tank' so I know this works with both. Condensation can be a
lot more than you realize; and the effect on the fuel a lot greater with
even a small amount. I always add about a 'capful' of 'Store-N-Start'
stabilizer to the tank on fill up. If I add more gas, I'll also add a
bit more of the stabilizer. Supposedly, this stuff also has a 'dryer'
component, but adding a occasional 'dash' of 'dollar store' stuff
wouldn't hurt if you haven't used the gas in a long time. {ALL the
'cheap stuff' is Methanol; the stuff that has Ethanol {or
Isopropyl }WILL SAY SO on the 'components' list. In addition, I always
make sure the carburetor bowl is EMPTY at the end of the day. I leave
the engine on a fast idle, and disconnect the fuel line . . . AT THE
TANK . . . and hang that end on the boom 'pigtail' so it drains the line
and carb. No 'sludge', gum, or varnish build-up. Annually, I clean or
replace the fuel filter in the engine, and inspect and/or replace the
plugs. When the boat was 'slipped' we used an old 'car cover' for a boat
cover, and kept the fuel container shaded and the vent closed. Now that
she is on a mooring, and un-shaded, we leave it open . . . so the
plastic tank doesn't 'flex' as much. STILL starts immediately, and
hasn't stalled out yet.
With the other guy's 3.5 motor . . . 1 - DUMP {properly, of course}the
old fuel and FLUSH the tank well with fresh fuel. 2 - DRAIN & flush the
carburetor 3 - CLEAN the internal fuel filter 4 - REFILL with FRESH
fuel/ STABILIZER/oil mix & and run engine at mid throttle {or greater}
for at least 30 minutes. After doing this, and following my 'normal'
procedures, he had NO MORE stalling problems.
On a '4-stroke' note, I had similar 'sputtering' problems with my old
{1984}Toyota Pick-up, and also my 'new' 1995 Isuzu. The 'Toy' was very
fuel efficient, and would go for weeks between fill-ups. It also sat in
the drive more that it was on the road. A steel tank, in cool weather
picks up a good amount of condensation. In addition, because the gas &
water AREN'T mixed {THAT'S what the 'dryer' does}, the water
ACCUMULATES. Even with the modern 'emission proof' non-vented tanks,
this does happen. When I started to have a rough running engine, I would
immediately added a couple of pints {of dryer}to the tank. By the way,
those expensive 'Fuel Injector Cleaners' that suggest adding to each
tank - they are basically ALCOHOL. I typically add a pint of Isopropyl
dryer at least once a month, during the winter. Also, simply keeping the
tank full reduces the tendency . . . I try not to let my fuel level get
below 1/4 tank, at any season.
Regards & Good Luck,
Ron Magen
Backyard Boatshop
> Lots of mention of the use cheap 87 octane fuel causing carbondeposits that ruin aluminum engines, though....
>thinks.
> Guess I should start buying premium... for the mower, too, me
>A lot of "premium" gas has alcohol, too.
I would not worry too much about running "regular"
unleaded gas, but might add a dab of carbon
remover every so often. A small bottle of the
stuff would last you several years.
I would get a tube of water-finding paste (the brand
I have is "Kolor Kut"). This is the stuff gasoline
stations use to check their tanks for water; put
a dab of the brown stuff on a stick and "stick"
the tank and if it turns purple, you have water.
I check my tanks maybe twice a season and occasionlly
find a bit of water before it has a chance to accumulate
to the point where the engine is affected.
Max
On Thursday, September 4, 2003, at 12:16 PM, Richard Spelling wrote:
the following water separating fuel filters.
#21632 $22 and
#27382 $30 at Overtons (www.overtons.com)
#2160612 $32 at West Marine (www.westmarine.com)
#358040194 $30 at Boaters World (www.boatersworld.com)
You want the kind that looks like a remote oil filtter.
Boaters World catalog# 358040194, is a good example.
You don't need one that big but I didn't find any smaller.
Cheap insurance.
hal
> Well, the Chebacco has a nice motor well in the back, the perfectA search of "fuel filter" at the following sites found
> place to mount a filter. Now, if I could just find one that I didn't
> have to mortgage the house to buy.
the following water separating fuel filters.
#21632 $22 and
#27382 $30 at Overtons (www.overtons.com)
#2160612 $32 at West Marine (www.westmarine.com)
#358040194 $30 at Boaters World (www.boatersworld.com)
You want the kind that looks like a remote oil filtter.
Boaters World catalog# 358040194, is a good example.
You don't need one that big but I didn't find any smaller.
Cheap insurance.
hal
I have mentioned this before on the group, always use an in place mounted
fuel filter, perferably with a glass bowl where you can see what is coming
through.
A friend who sells and maintains outboards for a living in Nome told me
that he figured 50% or better of all outboard problems he delt with were
due to bad gas. Getting bad fuel is more likely in Western AK, but I would
be prepared for it anywhere.
HJ
My new Nissan 6hp four stroke has developed a stutter.
I'm 90% sure it's water in the gas, as replacing the fuel and draining the
carb cleared it up.
However, it's developed it again.
So, my thoughts:
1) buy one of those good water/fuel separators, with the bowl and drain
2) buy one of those water/fuel separators with the disposible canisters
(how long would one of those last, btw?)
3) go to an auto parts store, buy some "water remover", and mix it with the
gas.
Thoughts? Comments?
Cheba
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/.
fuel filter, perferably with a glass bowl where you can see what is coming
through.
A friend who sells and maintains outboards for a living in Nome told me
that he figured 50% or better of all outboard problems he delt with were
due to bad gas. Getting bad fuel is more likely in Western AK, but I would
be prepared for it anywhere.
HJ
My new Nissan 6hp four stroke has developed a stutter.
I'm 90% sure it's water in the gas, as replacing the fuel and draining the
carb cleared it up.
However, it's developed it again.
So, my thoughts:
1) buy one of those good water/fuel separators, with the bowl and drain
2) buy one of those water/fuel separators with the disposible canisters
(how long would one of those last, btw?)
3) go to an auto parts store, buy some "water remover", and mix it with the
gas.
Thoughts? Comments?
Cheba
--------------------------------------------------------------------
mail2web - Check your email from the web at
http://mail2web.com/.
They all contain alchohol, either isopropanol or methanol. Ethanol is drinking alchohol. In all cases, you shouldn't try to burn pure alchohol, it eats the seals.
The $10 a pint stuff at West Marine is methanol. So is the $1.19 a pint stuff at AutoZone...
Looked at the owners manual, no mention of forbidding fuel dryers.
Extensive searching, no mention of problems with fuel dryers and outboards.
Lots of mention of the use cheap 87 octane fuel causing carbon deposits that ruin aluminum engines, though....
Guess I should start buying premium... for the mower, too, me thinks.
The $10 a pint stuff at West Marine is methanol. So is the $1.19 a pint stuff at AutoZone...
Looked at the owners manual, no mention of forbidding fuel dryers.
Extensive searching, no mention of problems with fuel dryers and outboards.
Lots of mention of the use cheap 87 octane fuel causing carbon deposits that ruin aluminum engines, though....
Guess I should start buying premium... for the mower, too, me thinks.
----- Original Message -----
From: jmbell1
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 12:34 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: sputtering 4 strokes
I'd be careful with a fuel dryer you pour in you gas tank because
they may contain alcohol. My Merc 4 stroke owners manual has some
pretty stern language against putting any alcohol (ethanol
specifically) through the motor.
If you are getting water in your gas, it's usually pretty easy to see
it blobbing around the bottom of the tank. Keeping the fuel vent shut
when not actually using the motor will cut down on most of the water
getting into your tank. It comes in as the tank breathes during
temperature changes.
I'd also change out the fuel filter before resorting to other extreme
measures. There should be one under the motor shroud somewhere.
Also, you motor was new wasn't it? This is a good time to exercise
your rights under warranty.
Good luck.
--
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> I didn't want this discussion, but I must point out that a burningboat
> pollutes significantly more that a few ounces of gas once a year.I'm not
> suggesting unrestricted, routine, draining; just precautionsequivalent to
> the use of updraft carburetors and bilge blowers.Understood. Agreed.
Peter
Well, the Chebacco has a nice motor well in the back, the perfect place to mount a filter. Now, if I could just find one that I didn't have to mortgage the house to buy.
----- Original Message -----
From: Roger Derby
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 1:04 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: sputtering 4 strokes
I didn't want this discussion, but I must point out that a burning boat
pollutes significantly more that a few ounces of gas once a year. I'm not
suggesting unrestricted, routine, draining; just precautions equivalent to
the use of updraft carburetors and bilge blowers.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@...>
>
> > It will leak or spill eventually, so
> > that leakage must go overboard...
>
> The environmental police, USCG included, would
> not like this solution.
>
> Peter
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
From SA's writeup on the cruising version:
"Finally, the house top has those two hatches, two handholds, but could also have fishing rod and boat-hook holders, with over lengths extending ahead of the house without 'poking your eye out'. Indeed a couple of sweeps could be carried for a rowing geometry of your devising - should you have the urge. "
They do fine in light airs. Mine not so well as the lighter daysailers, but not two bad.
You can get the plans for the sheet ply version from Payson for $60.
About $300 for the plans from PCB&F, but they include "all versions".
"Finally, the house top has those two hatches, two handholds, but could also have fishing rod and boat-hook holders, with over lengths extending ahead of the house without 'poking your eye out'. Indeed a couple of sweeps could be carried for a rowing geometry of your devising - should you have the urge. "
They do fine in light airs. Mine not so well as the lighter daysailers, but not two bad.
You can get the plans for the sheet ply version from Payson for $60.
About $300 for the plans from PCB&F, but they include "all versions".
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 1:09 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: sputtering 4 strokes
--- Richard Spelling wrote:
> Theoreticaly. However, I bet you'd only do it once.
Just curious, what does PCB say about this,
on the plans, or do the plan notes mention rowing,
or sculling? And/or what did he write about
the motor? [not having ever seen Chebacco plans]
BTW, how many sheets in a Chebacco set, and
what do they cost?
I bet in the third world, many boats bigger
than this get sculled or rowed. If all you
had to do was manuever to the dock, or whatever,
maybe....
How is Chebacco in light winds?
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Richard Spelling wrote:
on the plans, or do the plan notes mention rowing,
or sculling? And/or what did he write about
the motor? [not having ever seen Chebacco plans]
BTW, how many sheets in a Chebacco set, and
what do they cost?
I bet in the third world, many boats bigger
than this get sculled or rowed. If all you
had to do was manuever to the dock, or whatever,
maybe....
How is Chebacco in light winds?
> Theoreticaly. However, I bet you'd only do it once.Just curious, what does PCB say about this,
on the plans, or do the plan notes mention rowing,
or sculling? And/or what did he write about
the motor? [not having ever seen Chebacco plans]
BTW, how many sheets in a Chebacco set, and
what do they cost?
I bet in the third world, many boats bigger
than this get sculled or rowed. If all you
had to do was manuever to the dock, or whatever,
maybe....
How is Chebacco in light winds?
I didn't want this discussion, but I must point out that a burning boat
pollutes significantly more that a few ounces of gas once a year. I'm not
suggesting unrestricted, routine, draining; just precautions equivalent to
the use of updraft carburetors and bilge blowers.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
pollutes significantly more that a few ounces of gas once a year. I'm not
suggesting unrestricted, routine, draining; just precautions equivalent to
the use of updraft carburetors and bilge blowers.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "pvanderwaart" <pvanderw@...>
>
> > It will leak or spill eventually, so
> > that leakage must go overboard...
>
> The environmental police, USCG included, would
> not like this solution.
>
> Peter
Theoreticaly. However, I bet you'd only do it once.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Hallman
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 12:48 PM
Subject: [bolger] Re: sputtering 4 strokes
--- Richard Spelling wrote:
> I run about 3 gallons a year.... :)
Is it possible to row,
or scull, in a Chebacco?
PCB wrote about the 'simplicity'
of rowing in _Small Boats_ long
ago, [pasted below]...
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
Bolger: ON ROWING [excerpt, Ch 7, Small Boats 1973]
Twenty years or so ago the National Geographic Society
sponsored an expedition to investigate a meteor crater
down back of beyond in Labrador. The crater lake was
to be sounded, so they took along a canoe, and,
naturally, an outboard motor to drive the canoe. How
else? That motor was flown at fabulous expense to the
vicinity, and packed miles across nightmarish boulder
terrain and down the precipitous wall of the crater
with hardship and hazard complained of in the official
account of the expedition. After arriving at the
water's edge, I suppose they spent a half hour hooking
it up and pulling on the starting cord before they
sputtered bravely out to the middle of the lake, which
was all of a mile and a half in diameter, took their
soundings, and proceeded to reverse the whole process
till the motor arrived in good order back in Montreal.
Being careful men, I expect that they also took some
paddles along in case the motor broke down.
Apart from illustrating that well-regarded scientists
don't necessarily have any sense, this piece of lunacy
is only an exaggerated example of a very common
tendency. There are actually thousands of people using
motors (and sails, for that matter) to do jobs that
could be done quicker and easier, to say nothing of
cheaper, with oars. Almost while I was writing this I
saw a television ad for an electric outboard motor,
guaranteed not to wake up your neighbors when you go
fishing early in the morning; the thought is
appreciated, but anybody could row the boat faster and
farther, still in silence, than that motor could drive
it.
I'm a great admirer of modern outboard motors, I
should say; I've owned several and used them a lot,
but the way some people use them is like trying to do
your shopping by airplane when the market is in
walking distance, not because you like flying so much,
but because you don't realize that it's possible to
walk. Even disregarding cost, it's folly to insist on
a motor for very short distances because the trouble
of bringing the motor to the starting point is out of
all proportion to any that it saves when ready. Motors
enable a boat to make headway against swift streams or
gale winds, or to cover a long distance quickly, or to
keep very heavy loads moving reliably; they're not
needed or efficient for short distances, light loads,
and pleasant weather, and in particular they're not
sensible when the thing sought is recreation for a
given time, rather than arrival over a certain
distance.
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Richard Spelling wrote:
or scull, in a Chebacco?
PCB wrote about the 'simplicity'
of rowing in _Small Boats_ long
ago, [pasted below]...
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
Bolger: ON ROWING [excerpt, Ch 7, Small Boats 1973]
Twenty years or so ago the National Geographic Society
sponsored an expedition to investigate a meteor crater
down back of beyond in Labrador. The crater lake was
to be sounded, so they took along a canoe, and,
naturally, an outboard motor to drive the canoe. How
else? That motor was flown at fabulous expense to the
vicinity, and packed miles across nightmarish boulder
terrain and down the precipitous wall of the crater
with hardship and hazard complained of in the official
account of the expedition. After arriving at the
water�s edge, I suppose they spent a half hour hooking
it up and pulling on the starting cord before they
sputtered bravely out to the middle of the lake, which
was all of a mile and a half in diameter, took their
soundings, and proceeded to reverse the whole process
till the motor arrived in good order back in Montreal.
Being careful men, I expect that they also took some
paddles along in case the motor broke down.
Apart from illustrating that well-regarded scientists
don't necessarily have any sense, this piece of lunacy
is only an exaggerated example of a very common
tendency. There are actually thousands of people using
motors (and sails, for that matter) to do jobs that
could be done quicker and easier, to say nothing of
cheaper, with oars. Almost while I was writing this I
saw a television ad for an electric outboard motor,
guaranteed not to wake up your neighbors when you go
fishing early in the morning; the thought is
appreciated, but anybody could row the boat faster and
farther, still in silence, than that motor could drive
it.
I'm a great admirer of modern outboard motors, I
should say; I've owned several and used them a lot,
but the way some people use them is like trying to do
your shopping by airplane when the market is in
walking distance, not because you like flying so much,
but because you don't realize that it�s possible to
walk. Even disregarding cost, it�s folly to insist on
a motor for very short distances because the trouble
of bringing the motor to the starting point is out of
all proportion to any that it saves when ready. Motors
enable a boat to make headway against swift streams or
gale winds, or to cover a long distance quickly, or to
keep very heavy loads moving reliably; they're not
needed or efficient for short distances, light loads,
and pleasant weather, and in particular they're not
sensible when the thing sought is recreation for a
given time, rather than arrival over a certain
distance.
> I run about 3 gallons a year.... :)Is it possible to row,
or scull, in a Chebacco?
PCB wrote about the 'simplicity'
of rowing in _Small Boats_ long
ago, [pasted below]...
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
=
Bolger: ON ROWING [excerpt, Ch 7, Small Boats 1973]
Twenty years or so ago the National Geographic Society
sponsored an expedition to investigate a meteor crater
down back of beyond in Labrador. The crater lake was
to be sounded, so they took along a canoe, and,
naturally, an outboard motor to drive the canoe. How
else? That motor was flown at fabulous expense to the
vicinity, and packed miles across nightmarish boulder
terrain and down the precipitous wall of the crater
with hardship and hazard complained of in the official
account of the expedition. After arriving at the
water�s edge, I suppose they spent a half hour hooking
it up and pulling on the starting cord before they
sputtered bravely out to the middle of the lake, which
was all of a mile and a half in diameter, took their
soundings, and proceeded to reverse the whole process
till the motor arrived in good order back in Montreal.
Being careful men, I expect that they also took some
paddles along in case the motor broke down.
Apart from illustrating that well-regarded scientists
don't necessarily have any sense, this piece of lunacy
is only an exaggerated example of a very common
tendency. There are actually thousands of people using
motors (and sails, for that matter) to do jobs that
could be done quicker and easier, to say nothing of
cheaper, with oars. Almost while I was writing this I
saw a television ad for an electric outboard motor,
guaranteed not to wake up your neighbors when you go
fishing early in the morning; the thought is
appreciated, but anybody could row the boat faster and
farther, still in silence, than that motor could drive
it.
I'm a great admirer of modern outboard motors, I
should say; I've owned several and used them a lot,
but the way some people use them is like trying to do
your shopping by airplane when the market is in
walking distance, not because you like flying so much,
but because you don't realize that it�s possible to
walk. Even disregarding cost, it�s folly to insist on
a motor for very short distances because the trouble
of bringing the motor to the starting point is out of
all proportion to any that it saves when ready. Motors
enable a boat to make headway against swift streams or
gale winds, or to cover a long distance quickly, or to
keep very heavy loads moving reliably; they're not
needed or efficient for short distances, light loads,
and pleasant weather, and in particular they're not
sensible when the thing sought is recreation for a
given time, rather than arrival over a certain
distance.
I'd be careful with a fuel dryer you pour in you gas tank because
they may contain alcohol. My Merc 4 stroke owners manual has some
pretty stern language against putting any alcohol (ethanol
specifically) through the motor.
If you are getting water in your gas, it's usually pretty easy to see
it blobbing around the bottom of the tank. Keeping the fuel vent shut
when not actually using the motor will cut down on most of the water
getting into your tank. It comes in as the tank breathes during
temperature changes.
I'd also change out the fuel filter before resorting to other extreme
measures. There should be one under the motor shroud somewhere.
Also, you motor was new wasn't it? This is a good time to exercise
your rights under warranty.
Good luck.
--
they may contain alcohol. My Merc 4 stroke owners manual has some
pretty stern language against putting any alcohol (ethanol
specifically) through the motor.
If you are getting water in your gas, it's usually pretty easy to see
it blobbing around the bottom of the tank. Keeping the fuel vent shut
when not actually using the motor will cut down on most of the water
getting into your tank. It comes in as the tank breathes during
temperature changes.
I'd also change out the fuel filter before resorting to other extreme
measures. There should be one under the motor shroud somewhere.
Also, you motor was new wasn't it? This is a good time to exercise
your rights under warranty.
Good luck.
--
> It will leak or spill eventually, soThe environmental police, USCG included, would not like this solution.
> that leakage must go overboard...
Peter
On Thursday, September 4, 2003, at 09:31 AM, Richard Spelling wrote:
through the tank significant quantities of water couldn't
accumulate. :^)
the tank full will help the condensation problem a lot.
hal
> I run about 3 gallons a year.... :)Well there is your problem?! If you ran a lot more gas
through the tank significant quantities of water couldn't
accumulate. :^)
> I'm assuming condensation, though possibly it's going in the vent holeTop off the tank with a few tablespoons of gas after every use. Keeping
> on the cap. I did have a cover on that at one time, will put that back
> on as well.
the tank full will help the condensation problem a lot.
hal
After some twenty years of draining my Cessna's tanks to take out the water,
I've about decided that "condensation" is an old wive's tale to cover up the
bad storage tanks of the FBO (gasoline vendor). I tried to run the numbers,
but they're very hard to get; e.g. the expansion coefficient of gasoline
which is supposedly pumping in moist air as the temperature changes.
Anyway, the only time I get significant water is when the bird's been parked
out in the rain. As long as it's under cover, no water is found.
I suspect the shape of the filler neck around the caps, but the point is
that significant amounts don't come out of thin air. (pun)
If there's a convenient place to mount one of the "gascolators" with the
glass bowl, that would be my choice. It will leak or spill eventually, so
that leakage must go overboard and not into the bilges.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
I've about decided that "condensation" is an old wive's tale to cover up the
bad storage tanks of the FBO (gasoline vendor). I tried to run the numbers,
but they're very hard to get; e.g. the expansion coefficient of gasoline
which is supposedly pumping in moist air as the temperature changes.
Anyway, the only time I get significant water is when the bird's been parked
out in the rain. As long as it's under cover, no water is found.
I suspect the shape of the filler neck around the caps, but the point is
that significant amounts don't come out of thin air. (pun)
If there's a convenient place to mount one of the "gascolators" with the
glass bowl, that would be my choice. It will leak or spill eventually, so
that leakage must go overboard and not into the bilges.
Roger
derbyrm@...
http://derbyrm.mystarband.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Spelling" <richard@...>
> I'm assuming condensation, though possibly it's going
> in the vent hole on the cap. I did have a cover on that
> at one time, will put that back on as well.
>
> > I'm 90% sure it's water in the gas, as replacing the
> > fuel and draining the carb cleared it up.
About what I figured, get the cheapest canister separator I can find, replace filters every year. I run about 3 gallons a year.... :)
I'm assuming condensation, though possibly it's going in the vent hole on the cap. I did have a cover on that at one time, will put that back on as well.
I'm assuming condensation, though possibly it's going in the vent hole on the cap. I did have a cover on that at one time, will put that back on as well.
----- Original Message -----
From: Hal Lynch
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 10:24 AM
Subject: Re: [bolger] sputtering 4 strokes
On Thursday, September 4, 2003, at 08:54 AM, Richard Spelling wrote:
> I'm 90% sure it's water in the gas, as replacing the fuel and draining
> the carb cleared it up.
> 2) buy one of those water/fuel separators with the disposible
> canisters (how long would one of those last, btw?)
2 things.
My boat with a V8 engine has a disposable fuel filter/separator.
I replace it every year when I winterize whether it needs it or not.
In a good year I run about 200 gallons of gas through it. That is
much more than you will. Cheap insurance.
Have you figured out how the water is getting into the gas?
Prevention is as good as a cure.
A filter/separator is a good idea in any event.
hal
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
On Thursday, September 4, 2003, at 08:54 AM, Richard Spelling wrote:
My boat with a V8 engine has a disposable fuel filter/separator.
I replace it every year when I winterize whether it needs it or not.
In a good year I run about 200 gallons of gas through it. That is
much more than you will. Cheap insurance.
Have you figured out how the water is getting into the gas?
Prevention is as good as a cure.
A filter/separator is a good idea in any event.
hal
> I'm 90% sure it's water in the gas, as replacing the fuel and draining2 things.
> the carb cleared it up.
> 2) buy one of those water/fuel separators with the disposible
> canisters (how long would one of those last, btw?)
My boat with a V8 engine has a disposable fuel filter/separator.
I replace it every year when I winterize whether it needs it or not.
In a good year I run about 200 gallons of gas through it. That is
much more than you will. Cheap insurance.
Have you figured out how the water is getting into the gas?
Prevention is as good as a cure.
A filter/separator is a good idea in any event.
hal
oh, ya, and can I use a diesel separator w/gas?
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Spelling
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 9:54 AM
Subject: [bolger] sputtering 4 strokes
My new Nissan 6hp four stroke has developed a stutter.
I'm 90% sure it's water in the gas, as replacing the fuel and draining the carb cleared it up.
However, it's developed it again.
So, my thoughts:
1) buy one of those good water/fuel separators, with the bowl and drain
2) buy one of those water/fuel separators with the disposible canisters (how long would one of those last, btw?)
3) go to an auto parts store, buy some "water remover", and mix it with the gas.
Thoughts? Comments?
Chebacco Richard -http://www.chebacco.comhttp://www.richardspelling.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
My new Nissan 6hp four stroke has developed a stutter.
I'm 90% sure it's water in the gas, as replacing the fuel and draining the carb cleared it up.
However, it's developed it again.
So, my thoughts:
1) buy one of those good water/fuel separators, with the bowl and drain
2) buy one of those water/fuel separators with the disposible canisters (how long would one of those last, btw?)
3) go to an auto parts store, buy some "water remover", and mix it with the gas.
Thoughts? Comments?
Chebacco Richard -http://www.chebacco.comhttp://www.richardspelling.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I'm 90% sure it's water in the gas, as replacing the fuel and draining the carb cleared it up.
However, it's developed it again.
So, my thoughts:
1) buy one of those good water/fuel separators, with the bowl and drain
2) buy one of those water/fuel separators with the disposible canisters (how long would one of those last, btw?)
3) go to an auto parts store, buy some "water remover", and mix it with the gas.
Thoughts? Comments?
Chebacco Richard -http://www.chebacco.comhttp://www.richardspelling.com
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]