Re: marine sealant
I think it has already been covered in recent posts, but to pull it
all together check out:
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/Mounting.cfm
It talks about mounting deck hardware, but the same principles apply
to your job.
Bill
all together check out:
http://www.bosunsupplies.com/Mounting.cfm
It talks about mounting deck hardware, but the same principles apply
to your job.
Bill
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Hal Lynch <hal@c...> wrote:
>
> It seems that if I epoxied the screw holes I would have
> to put the screws in while the epoxy was wet or it would
> break/crack. True? If I have to do it wet how will the epoxy
> react with the 3M 5200? IE will they work together?
>
A common cause of transom and bulkhead delamination is from water
penetrating around the sealed bolts. To prevent this, drill the bolt
holes oversized, fill with epoxy putty and let it set, then redrill
the correct size bolt hole. Then apply your sealant of choice and
the repair should be quite solid.
David Jost
"catboat-magnificat"
penetrating around the sealed bolts. To prevent this, drill the bolt
holes oversized, fill with epoxy putty and let it set, then redrill
the correct size bolt hole. Then apply your sealant of choice and
the repair should be quite solid.
David Jost
"catboat-magnificat"
3M4200 is the little brother of 5200, not as an aggressive adhesive as 5200
but still good below the water line. If you have plywood in the transom,
apply epoxy with a Q-tip and let it set. It should soak into the plywood so
water won't, then apply sealant.
The worst thing you can do is torque down the screws and squeeze out all the
sealant. You may want to use a "Bump" technique I use. I do one of two
things. I get clear vinyl furniture bumper about 1/8" thick and 3/8" in
diameter from HD. Put them on the trim tab either side of the fasteners.
Apply plenty of sealant and then tighten the screws. Alternately you can use
neoprene washers on the fasteners. The idea is to be able to tighten the
screws on the bumps or washers while providing the right amount of sealant
under the tabs. Don't tighten the screws after the sealant has set of you
will break the seal around the fasteners.
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Member, Boating Writers International
Published in Small Craft Advisor, SAIL,
Living Aboard, Boatbuilder, Good Old
Boat, Blue Water Sailing, Nor'easter
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
www.smallcraftadvisor.com
www.captnpauley.com
but still good below the water line. If you have plywood in the transom,
apply epoxy with a Q-tip and let it set. It should soak into the plywood so
water won't, then apply sealant.
The worst thing you can do is torque down the screws and squeeze out all the
sealant. You may want to use a "Bump" technique I use. I do one of two
things. I get clear vinyl furniture bumper about 1/8" thick and 3/8" in
diameter from HD. Put them on the trim tab either side of the fasteners.
Apply plenty of sealant and then tighten the screws. Alternately you can use
neoprene washers on the fasteners. The idea is to be able to tighten the
screws on the bumps or washers while providing the right amount of sealant
under the tabs. Don't tighten the screws after the sealant has set of you
will break the seal around the fasteners.
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Member, Boating Writers International
Published in Small Craft Advisor, SAIL,
Living Aboard, Boatbuilder, Good Old
Boat, Blue Water Sailing, Nor'easter
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
www.smallcraftadvisor.com
www.captnpauley.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal Lynch" <hal@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: [bolger] marine sealant
>
> On Thursday, September 4, 2003, at 11:46 AM, Paul W. Esterle wrote:
>
> > The big problem with fiberglass hulls is that the transom may be
> > "cored"
> > i.e. it may have a plywood center. If this core gets wet from water
> > leaking
> > into it, it can eventually rot or delaminate. Coating the screws with a
> > sealant works somewhat, but saturating the hole with epoxy is better,
> > then
> > use the sealant. 3M5200 is pretty permanent but can be loosened with
> > Anti-Bond. 3M4200 would probably be better.
>
> I don't think the transom is cored where the tabs will go.
> I will know for sure when I drill?!
>
> It seems that if I epoxied the screw holes I would have
> to put the screws in while the epoxy was wet or it would
> break/crack. True? If I have to do it wet how will the epoxy
> react with the 3M 5200? IE will they work together?
>
> The hull where the tabs have to go is filled with flotation,
> so I don't have access to the back side.
> If the screw holes weep I won't know until the boat gains
> several hundred pounds. :^( You can see why I want to
> do this right the first time.
>
> What is 3M 4200 I have never heard of it?
>
> hal
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
On Thursday, September 4, 2003, at 11:46 AM, Paul W. Esterle wrote:
I will know for sure when I drill?!
It seems that if I epoxied the screw holes I would have
to put the screws in while the epoxy was wet or it would
break/crack. True? If I have to do it wet how will the epoxy
react with the 3M 5200? IE will they work together?
The hull where the tabs have to go is filled with flotation,
so I don't have access to the back side.
If the screw holes weep I won't know until the boat gains
several hundred pounds. :^( You can see why I want to
do this right the first time.
What is 3M 4200 I have never heard of it?
hal
> The big problem with fiberglass hulls is that the transom may beI don't think the transom is cored where the tabs will go.
> "cored"
> i.e. it may have a plywood center. If this core gets wet from water
> leaking
> into it, it can eventually rot or delaminate. Coating the screws with a
> sealant works somewhat, but saturating the hole with epoxy is better,
> then
> use the sealant. 3M5200 is pretty permanent but can be loosened with
> Anti-Bond. 3M4200 would probably be better.
I will know for sure when I drill?!
It seems that if I epoxied the screw holes I would have
to put the screws in while the epoxy was wet or it would
break/crack. True? If I have to do it wet how will the epoxy
react with the 3M 5200? IE will they work together?
The hull where the tabs have to go is filled with flotation,
so I don't have access to the back side.
If the screw holes weep I won't know until the boat gains
several hundred pounds. :^( You can see why I want to
do this right the first time.
What is 3M 4200 I have never heard of it?
hal
The big problem with fiberglass hulls is that the transom may be "cored"
i.e. it may have a plywood center. If this core gets wet from water leaking
into it, it can eventually rot or delaminate. Coating the screws with a
sealant works somewhat, but saturating the hole with epoxy is better, then
use the sealant. 3M5200 is pretty permanent but can be loosened with
Anti-Bond. 3M4200 would probably be better.
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Member, Boating Writers International
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
www.smallcraftadvisor.com
www.captnpauley.com
i.e. it may have a plywood center. If this core gets wet from water leaking
into it, it can eventually rot or delaminate. Coating the screws with a
sealant works somewhat, but saturating the hole with epoxy is better, then
use the sealant. 3M5200 is pretty permanent but can be loosened with
Anti-Bond. 3M4200 would probably be better.
Paul Esterle
Freelance Boating Writer
Member, Boating Writers International
pages.preferred.com/~pesterle/
www.smallcraftadvisor.com
www.captnpauley.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hal Lynch" <hal@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2003 12:56 PM
Subject: [bolger] marine sealant
> I am going to install trim tabs on my boat. This necessitates
> drilling holes and attaching metal plates to the hull below
> the water line, something that makes me really nervous.
>
> The manufacturer specifies coating the threads on the
> screws with 3M 5200 and using a marine sealant
> behind the plates. An e-mail from the manufacturer said
> "use the sealant you are familiar with". Which was no help.
>
> Should I use 3M 5200 for everything? If not what should I
> use in addition? BTW the hull is fiber glass.
>
> hal
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Hi Hal
3M 5200 is good for permanent installation of parts as it is very
difficult to get apart! If you want to remove the parts in the
future use 3M 4100, an excellent sealer but easier to remove. Avoid
Lifecaulk and hardware store brands, spend the extra money and you
will be happier!
Steve Bosquette
3M 5200 is good for permanent installation of parts as it is very
difficult to get apart! If you want to remove the parts in the
future use 3M 4100, an excellent sealer but easier to remove. Avoid
Lifecaulk and hardware store brands, spend the extra money and you
will be happier!
Steve Bosquette
> Should I use 3M 5200 for everything? If not what should I
> use in addition? BTW the hull is fiber glass.
>
> hal
I am going to install trim tabs on my boat. This necessitates
drilling holes and attaching metal plates to the hull below
the water line, something that makes me really nervous.
The manufacturer specifies coating the threads on the
screws with 3M 5200 and using a marine sealant
behind the plates. An e-mail from the manufacturer said
"use the sealant you are familiar with". Which was no help.
Should I use 3M 5200 for everything? If not what should I
use in addition? BTW the hull is fiber glass.
hal
drilling holes and attaching metal plates to the hull below
the water line, something that makes me really nervous.
The manufacturer specifies coating the threads on the
screws with 3M 5200 and using a marine sealant
behind the plates. An e-mail from the manufacturer said
"use the sealant you are familiar with". Which was no help.
Should I use 3M 5200 for everything? If not what should I
use in addition? BTW the hull is fiber glass.
hal