Re: Sitka Exlorer, casrtoon posted in Bolger3.
Yep, in an old MAIB. I'll check at work tomorrow.
Bruce Hector
Bruce Hector
Are there any photos or drawings of the Sitka Explorer anywhere? --FrankB
-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Glasscock [mailto:glasscocklanding@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 12:42 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Sitka Exlorer, was pre-fiberglassing plywood
parts
Ken, the last corespondence I had on this issue with
Mr. Bolger was that he had been too busy to make much
progress, other than [I'm paraphrasing his words]
"thinking about it in the abstract, which can be
helpful in its own way." That was in late summer. I
would love to see her finished, and built. What a
beauty.
--- kenkongs <jaguar215@...> wrote:
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-----Original Message-----
From: Sam Glasscock [mailto:glasscocklanding@...]
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2003 12:42 PM
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Sitka Exlorer, was pre-fiberglassing plywood
parts
Ken, the last corespondence I had on this issue with
Mr. Bolger was that he had been too busy to make much
progress, other than [I'm paraphrasing his words]
"thinking about it in the abstract, which can be
helpful in its own way." That was in late summer. I
would love to see her finished, and built. What a
beauty.
--- kenkongs <jaguar215@...> wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock__________________________________
> <glasscocklanding@y...>
> wrote:
> > I think at the time I talked to him, Mr. Bolger
> was
> > still considering some fundamental issues, chiefly
> snip
> > > nearly complete to me! It is
> > > hard to know what other work
> > > he would need to do, beyond
> > > expanding the panels.
> snip
>
> Sam,
> do you know if PB&F have continued with this design?
> ken
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
> >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
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Bolger rules!!!
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ken, the last corespondence I had on this issue with
Mr. Bolger was that he had been too busy to make much
progress, other than [I'm paraphrasing his words]
"thinking about it in the abstract, which can be
helpful in its own way." That was in late summer. I
would love to see her finished, and built. What a
beauty.
--- kenkongs <jaguar215@...> wrote:
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
Mr. Bolger was that he had been too busy to make much
progress, other than [I'm paraphrasing his words]
"thinking about it in the abstract, which can be
helpful in its own way." That was in late summer. I
would love to see her finished, and built. What a
beauty.
--- kenkongs <jaguar215@...> wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock__________________________________
> <glasscocklanding@y...>
> wrote:
> > I think at the time I talked to him, Mr. Bolger
> was
> > still considering some fundamental issues, chiefly
> snip
> > > nearly complete to me! It is
> > > hard to know what other work
> > > he would need to do, beyond
> > > expanding the panels.
> snip
>
> Sam,
> do you know if PB&F have continued with this design?
> ken
> >
> >
> > __________________________________
> > Do you Yahoo!?
> > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site
> design software
> >http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
>
>
Do you Yahoo!?
Free Pop-Up Blocker - Get it now
http://companion.yahoo.com/
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Sam Glasscock <glasscocklanding@y...>
wrote:
Sam,
do you know if PB&F have continued with this design?
ken
wrote:
> I think at the time I talked to him, Mr. Bolger wassnip
> still considering some fundamental issues, chiefly
> > nearly complete to me! It issnip
> > hard to know what other work
> > he would need to do, beyond
> > expanding the panels.
Sam,
do you know if PB&F have continued with this design?
ken
>
>
> __________________________________
> Do you Yahoo!?
> Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
>http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
Hi Pater -
Thanks for your quick reply on the Champlain's headroom. I'm also a 6'r but I understand the natural impulse to duck slightly when stepping up in the mid section.
I had given some thought to puting a skylite over this section to increase headroom slightly and also I like the slightly raised forward cabin top on Sitka Explorer - just for looks.
I'm getting close to sending for a set of Champlain plans from PB&F but want to have all my questions together for Mr Bolger (Barbara say's "Order the plans and build a model") so I'm not taking up all his time.
Aloha - Jack - Ft Lauderdale
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks for your quick reply on the Champlain's headroom. I'm also a 6'r but I understand the natural impulse to duck slightly when stepping up in the mid section.
I had given some thought to puting a skylite over this section to increase headroom slightly and also I like the slightly raised forward cabin top on Sitka Explorer - just for looks.
I'm getting close to sending for a set of Champlain plans from PB&F but want to have all my questions together for Mr Bolger (Barbara say's "Order the plans and build a model") so I'm not taking up all his time.
Aloha - Jack - Ft Lauderdale
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Peter, I'll check out Windmere. Thanks, Don
Peter Lenihan <lestat@...> wrote:--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson wrote:
sole.
WINDERMERE which has tons of under sole storage for everything from
waste,grey-water,drinking water to dry goods,batteries and even the
oars for the dinghys carried on her roof top!Check out the files
section,in BOLGER2, for some photos of one under construction and a
couple of smallish"study plans".
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,full steam ahead WINDERMERE builder and boat
addict.......
Bolger rules!!!
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- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Peter Lenihan <lestat@...> wrote:--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson wrote:
> I would like to have large tankage for livaboard use and easy-to-get-at systems so I envision a helm/dinnette area with a removable
sole.
> I assume this vessel could handle the confused chop of the exposedeast coast bays and river envirens? flat bottoms and all?
> DonPardon me for saying so Don,but it sounds like perhaps you need a
WINDERMERE which has tons of under sole storage for everything from
waste,grey-water,drinking water to dry goods,batteries and even the
oars for the dinghys carried on her roof top!Check out the files
section,in BOLGER2, for some photos of one under construction and a
couple of smallish"study plans".
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,full steam ahead WINDERMERE builder and boat
addict.......
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
crazy and not wishing to impose but.....would you also happen to
have a scan of the interior layout Bruce?
Thanks.
Peter Lenihan
> Pretty, yes.Wow! She is indeed rather striking! At the risk of driving myself
>
>http://www.hallman.org/bolger/sitka.gif
crazy and not wishing to impose but.....would you also happen to
have a scan of the interior layout Bruce?
Thanks.
Peter Lenihan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "John Spoering" <spoering@e...> wrote:
and do you have to duck your head when walking over the raised
center section.
Do not have the exact figures but yes,I do have to lower the
head in the middle section,but I'm 6'. Mind you, there is plenty of
head room where you need it most or at least appreciate it best(the
galley and head). Also,I found it almost a reflex to automatically
stoop when stepping up into the middle section,which makes sense,
since you are also most likely headed there to sit down anyway :-)
She is a wonderfully roomy boat for its 22'!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> Hi Peter -the Messabout. I'm wondering, what is the center headroom inside
>
> Thanks for your note on being aboard the "Champlain" at
and do you have to duck your head when walking over the raised
center section.
>Aloha - Jack Spoering - Ft Lauderdale
>
>Hi Jack,
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Do not have the exact figures but yes,I do have to lower the
head in the middle section,but I'm 6'. Mind you, there is plenty of
head room where you need it most or at least appreciate it best(the
galley and head). Also,I found it almost a reflex to automatically
stoop when stepping up into the middle section,which makes sense,
since you are also most likely headed there to sit down anyway :-)
She is a wonderfully roomy boat for its 22'!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Hi Peter -
Thanks for your note on being aboard the "Champlain" at the Messabout. I'm wondering, what is the center headroom inside and do you have to duck your head when walking over the raised center section.
Aloha - Jack Spoering - Ft Lauderdale
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Thanks for your note on being aboard the "Champlain" at the Messabout. I'm wondering, what is the center headroom inside and do you have to duck your head when walking over the raised center section.
Aloha - Jack Spoering - Ft Lauderdale
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I think at the time I talked to him, Mr. Bolger was
still considering some fundamental issues, chiefly
whether the Sitka should be built wth a flat bottom
aft, for low speed planing (as shown in MAIB), or
should have a rockered hull for an easier sea motion
at displacement speed. That in turn would be decided
by the primary use/desired power of the person who
commisioned the plans in final form. I agree the
plans as shown in MAIB looked well developed, and
certianly the concept was in between two finished
designs--Tahiti and Topaz. Sam
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
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still considering some fundamental issues, chiefly
whether the Sitka should be built wth a flat bottom
aft, for low speed planing (as shown in MAIB), or
should have a rockered hull for an easier sea motion
at displacement speed. That in turn would be decided
by the primary use/desired power of the person who
commisioned the plans in final form. I agree the
plans as shown in MAIB looked well developed, and
certianly the concept was in between two finished
designs--Tahiti and Topaz. Sam
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
>> The drawings in MAIB seemed__________________________________
> nearly complete to me! It is
> hard to know what other work
> he would need to do, beyond
> expanding the panels.
> >
Do you Yahoo!?
Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
It appears that Sitka Explorer is flat bottom like Topaz and
Dakota with no under sole storage. With flaired topsides, it might
fit on a trailer better than Dakota.
The "streetcar" accommodation layout of the Dakota helps
insure that the weight is evenly distributed side to side. Any
so-called "double berth" on a boat of this width is not acceptable
to a couple used to spreading out on a king size bed at home. I
built the cantilevered transom berths to slide inboard to the
center with the back panels hinged to flip down and fill the space
outboard. The back cushions will be sized to fill the area
outboard of the berth cushions. The result is a "playpen" about
seven feet square whenever one wants to spend the time to set
it up. Otherwise, the transom berths can be used individually.
There is beaucoup storage on Dakota: under the berths, under
the dinette seats, under the forward and aft cockpits, under the
foredeck, under the raised foot platform of the dinette, in the two
hanging lockers, and under the raised helm and passenger foot
platforms -- not to mention the ample galley storage and huge
icebox/refrigerator.
Vince
Dakota with no under sole storage. With flaired topsides, it might
fit on a trailer better than Dakota.
The "streetcar" accommodation layout of the Dakota helps
insure that the weight is evenly distributed side to side. Any
so-called "double berth" on a boat of this width is not acceptable
to a couple used to spreading out on a king size bed at home. I
built the cantilevered transom berths to slide inboard to the
center with the back panels hinged to flip down and fill the space
outboard. The back cushions will be sized to fill the area
outboard of the berth cushions. The result is a "playpen" about
seven feet square whenever one wants to spend the time to set
it up. Otherwise, the transom berths can be used individually.
There is beaucoup storage on Dakota: under the berths, under
the dinette seats, under the forward and aft cockpits, under the
foredeck, under the raised foot platform of the dinette, in the two
hanging lockers, and under the raised helm and passenger foot
platforms -- not to mention the ample galley storage and huge
icebox/refrigerator.
Vince
--- Sam Glasscock asked:
nearly complete to me! It is
hard to know what other work
he would need to do, beyond
expanding the panels.
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/sitka.gif
> Doe anyone know whether PBThe drawings in MAIB seemed
> has ever finished the
> plans for this boat?
nearly complete to me! It is
hard to know what other work
he would need to do, beyond
expanding the panels.
> I think it is one of the prettiestPretty, yes.
> of the Bolger power sharpies.
http://www.hallman.org/bolger/sitka.gif
Doe anyone know whether PB has ever finished the plans
for this boat? He told me some months ago that
someone had commisisoned the finished plan. I think
it is one of the prettiest of the Bolger power
sharpies; prettier, due to the swept-up sheer at the
bow, than Topaz (and a lot more boat, too, of course).
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
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Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software
http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
for this boat? He told me some months ago that
someone had commisisoned the finished plan. I think
it is one of the prettiest of the Bolger power
sharpies; prettier, due to the swept-up sheer at the
bow, than Topaz (and a lot more boat, too, of course).
--- Bruce Hallman <bruce@...> wrote:
>__________________________________
> Yes, but I would also suggest
> that you consider the bigger
> Sitka Cruiser, which might
> be just a bit more suitible if
> you expecting more rough coastal
> conditions. 37'x 8' Kind of a
> scaled up Topaz, long distance
> live-aboard cruiser.
>
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--- Peter Lenihan wrote:
that you consider the bigger
Sitka Cruiser, which might
be just a bit more suitible if
you expecting more rough coastal
conditions. 37'x 8' Kind of a
scaled up Topaz, long distance
live-aboard cruiser.
> Pardon me for saying so Don,butYes, but I would also suggest
> it sounds like
> perhaps you need a
> WINDERMERE
that you consider the bigger
Sitka Cruiser, which might
be just a bit more suitible if
you expecting more rough coastal
conditions. 37'x 8' Kind of a
scaled up Topaz, long distance
live-aboard cruiser.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson <tysond99@y...> wrote:
sole.
WINDERMERE which has tons of under sole storage for everything from
waste,grey-water,drinking water to dry goods,batteries and even the
oars for the dinghys carried on her roof top!Check out the files
section,in BOLGER2, for some photos of one under construction and a
couple of smallish"study plans".
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,full steam ahead WINDERMERE builder and boat
addict.......
> I would like to have large tankage for livaboard use and easy-to-get-at systems so I envision a helm/dinnette area with a removable
sole.
> I assume this vessel could handle the confused chop of the exposedeast coast bays and river envirens? flat bottoms and all?
> DonPardon me for saying so Don,but it sounds like perhaps you need a
WINDERMERE which has tons of under sole storage for everything from
waste,grey-water,drinking water to dry goods,batteries and even the
oars for the dinghys carried on her roof top!Check out the files
section,in BOLGER2, for some photos of one under construction and a
couple of smallish"study plans".
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan,full steam ahead WINDERMERE builder and boat
addict.......
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "soussouchew" <vachew@v...> wrote:
served as an excellent inspiration for me( and maybe even others
doing a large Bolger boat) whenever I lose sight of the"light at the
end of the tunnel".All I have to do is gaze at those interior photos
and remind myself that one day,I will also have a cabin to work in:-)
Thanks Vince!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
> >And a fine,first-class job you have done so far too! Your photos have
> The panels were not especially difficult to handle. I installed
> them working alone with the help of the overhead trolley system I
> have in my shop.
>
> Vince
served as an excellent inspiration for me( and maybe even others
doing a large Bolger boat) whenever I lose sight of the"light at the
end of the tunnel".All I have to do is gaze at those interior photos
and remind myself that one day,I will also have a cabin to work in:-)
Thanks Vince!
Sincerely,
Peter Lenihan
Vince, The only theme of the Bolger Sharpies which I don't like is the Center Isle with lockers/settees/dinettes down the sides.... I'd feel like I'm on a bus.
I would like to have large tankage for livaboard use and easy-to-get-at systems so I envision a helm/dinnette area with a removable sole.
I assume this vessel could handle the confused chop of the exposed east coast bays and river envirens? flat bottoms and all?
Don
soussouchew <vachew@...> wrote:
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson
wrote:
building a Dakota? Those 40 foot panels must have been
chalenging to work with.
the boat except in the head where I raised the floor 5" to allow for
a shower sump.
The plans come with 5 arrangement ideas suggested. The
"window cruiser" style is the featured version with detailed
drawings. The others are not detailed. Actually, the offsets and
panel expansions are only for the hull up to the shear. Bolger
expects builders to do their own thing with the cabin.
I haven't heard of any other Dakota projects.
The panels were not especially difficult to handle. I installed
them working alone with the help of the overhead trolley system I
have in my shop.
Vince
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I would like to have large tankage for livaboard use and easy-to-get-at systems so I envision a helm/dinnette area with a removable sole.
I assume this vessel could handle the confused chop of the exposed east coast bays and river envirens? flat bottoms and all?
Don
soussouchew <vachew@...> wrote:
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson
wrote:
> . . . Could you please tell me if the sole is also the bottom andif their are other configs available? Are you the only person
building a Dakota? Those 40 foot panels must have been
chalenging to work with.
> DonYes, The sole (1 1/2" thick plus 2" center shoe) is the bottom of
the boat except in the head where I raised the floor 5" to allow for
a shower sump.
The plans come with 5 arrangement ideas suggested. The
"window cruiser" style is the featured version with detailed
drawings. The others are not detailed. Actually, the offsets and
panel expansions are only for the hull up to the shear. Bolger
expects builders to do their own thing with the cabin.
I haven't heard of any other Dakota projects.
The panels were not especially difficult to handle. I installed
them working alone with the help of the overhead trolley system I
have in my shop.
Vince
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson <tysond99@y...>
wrote:
building a Dakota? Those 40 foot panels must have been
chalenging to work with.
the boat except in the head where I raised the floor 5" to allow for
a shower sump.
The plans come with 5 arrangement ideas suggested. The
"window cruiser" style is the featured version with detailed
drawings. The others are not detailed. Actually, the offsets and
panel expansions are only for the hull up to the shear. Bolger
expects builders to do their own thing with the cabin.
I haven't heard of any other Dakota projects.
The panels were not especially difficult to handle. I installed
them working alone with the help of the overhead trolley system I
have in my shop.
Vince
wrote:
> . . . Could you please tell me if the sole is also the bottom andif their are other configs available? Are you the only person
building a Dakota? Those 40 foot panels must have been
chalenging to work with.
> DonYes, The sole (1 1/2" thick plus 2" center shoe) is the bottom of
the boat except in the head where I raised the floor 5" to allow for
a shower sump.
The plans come with 5 arrangement ideas suggested. The
"window cruiser" style is the featured version with detailed
drawings. The others are not detailed. Actually, the offsets and
panel expansions are only for the hull up to the shear. Bolger
expects builders to do their own thing with the cabin.
I haven't heard of any other Dakota projects.
The panels were not especially difficult to handle. I installed
them working alone with the help of the overhead trolley system I
have in my shop.
Vince
Vince, I admire this boat and also its size. Could you please tell me if the sole is also the bottom and if their are other configs available? Are you the only person building a Dakota? Those 40 foot panels must have been chalenging to work with.
Don
soussouchew <vachew@...> wrote:
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson
wrote:
Don,
My Dakota is not in the water yet, but getting close. I plan soon to
get some more recent pictures in my photo album on this site.
As far as I know, mine is the only one.
The preglassing is usually on the side that will be the exterior
while the filleting is on the inside. Dakota is built with a chine log
on a triple ply bottom, so the only fillets are bulkheads. On those,
I applied epoxy saturated glass tape over the wet fillets. I
preglassed the outer side of all of the hull panels except the
cabin top. I guess I could have preglassed that, too; but since it
was a horizontal surface, it was just as easy to glass in place.
There is no problem bending a preglassed panel. The longer
the panel, the easier it bends. I tape spliced 40' (5 sheet) panels
then preglassed them and cut them to shape off the boat on a
long workbench. They were very limber and easy to bend to the
curvature of the hull. There is a picture of this in the files section
of this site.
Vince
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Don
soussouchew <vachew@...> wrote:
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson
wrote:
> Harry,knowlege of "Dakota". I wonder if any Dakotas have been built.
> Could you or someone reading this point me to someone with
Don,
My Dakota is not in the water yet, but getting close. I plan soon to
get some more recent pictures in my photo album on this site.
As far as I know, mine is the only one.
The preglassing is usually on the side that will be the exterior
while the filleting is on the inside. Dakota is built with a chine log
on a triple ply bottom, so the only fillets are bulkheads. On those,
I applied epoxy saturated glass tape over the wet fillets. I
preglassed the outer side of all of the hull panels except the
cabin top. I guess I could have preglassed that, too; but since it
was a horizontal surface, it was just as easy to glass in place.
There is no problem bending a preglassed panel. The longer
the panel, the easier it bends. I tape spliced 40' (5 sheet) panels
then preglassed them and cut them to shape off the boat on a
long workbench. They were very limber and easy to bend to the
curvature of the hull. There is a picture of this in the files section
of this site.
Vince
Bolger rules!!!
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- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
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--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Don Tyson <tysond99@y...>
wrote:
Don,
My Dakota is not in the water yet, but getting close. I plan soon to
get some more recent pictures in my photo album on this site.
As far as I know, mine is the only one.
The preglassing is usually on the side that will be the exterior
while the filleting is on the inside. Dakota is built with a chine log
on a triple ply bottom, so the only fillets are bulkheads. On those,
I applied epoxy saturated glass tape over the wet fillets. I
preglassed the outer side of all of the hull panels except the
cabin top. I guess I could have preglassed that, too; but since it
was a horizontal surface, it was just as easy to glass in place.
There is no problem bending a preglassed panel. The longer
the panel, the easier it bends. I tape spliced 40' (5 sheet) panels
then preglassed them and cut them to shape off the boat on a
long workbench. They were very limber and easy to bend to the
curvature of the hull. There is a picture of this in the files section
of this site.
Vince
wrote:
> Harry,knolege of "Dakota". I wonder if any Dakotas have been built.
> Could you or someone reading this point me to someone with
Don,
My Dakota is not in the water yet, but getting close. I plan soon to
get some more recent pictures in my photo album on this site.
As far as I know, mine is the only one.
The preglassing is usually on the side that will be the exterior
while the filleting is on the inside. Dakota is built with a chine log
on a triple ply bottom, so the only fillets are bulkheads. On those,
I applied epoxy saturated glass tape over the wet fillets. I
preglassed the outer side of all of the hull panels except the
cabin top. I guess I could have preglassed that, too; but since it
was a horizontal surface, it was just as easy to glass in place.
There is no problem bending a preglassed panel. The longer
the panel, the easier it bends. I tape spliced 40' (5 sheet) panels
then preglassed them and cut them to shape off the boat on a
long workbench. They were very limber and easy to bend to the
curvature of the hull. There is a picture of this in the files section
of this site.
Vince
Harry,
Could you or someone reading this point me to someone with knolege of "Dakota". I wonder if any Dakotas have been built.
I'm new to this page and boating talk (as of today) , so please feel free to disagree with me but couldn't one argue that if the plywood is glassed pre-assembly that any filletting and/or taping after that would result in merely a mechanical bond?
Don Tyson
Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
Yep
In the process of building the 3 gulls this summer, we pre fiberglassed
the sides of one of them. It was an experiment in easing the finishing
process. The sides were fiberglassed butt spliced, the splice sanded and
then cut out using a pattern we made from the plans in underlayment and
a pattern router. We laid the sides down flat, I put on 6 oz fiberglas
dry, sqeegying on epoxy, let the epoxy kick a bit, then flow coated per
the Gougeon book. After the second coat kicked enough to not flow
anymore I propped up the middle to pre curve it. I have since decided
that I didn't need to do that. After the epoxy set up we laid the sides
down flat, and used an inline air sander (17x2 in flat surface) to
flatten out the already mostly smooth surface. Actually Mary Ann did the
sanding (her boat). It made for a very good surface, I think I would
like to try the floor sander mentioned earlier instead of the air
sander. On your hands and knees with say a Black Skimmer would pretty
hard on the knees, it took about 2 hrs on the Gull. Check out the first
photo in Bolger photo's, Juneau Boats, to see results. It would be even
better if I had just a little more experience spraying the System 3
stuff. I got it really good on the last boat.
I will use this technique on any plywood boat that I fiberglass the
sides for in the future.
Make sure you sand where you are going to tape
HJ
Randy Beach wrote:
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Could you or someone reading this point me to someone with knolege of "Dakota". I wonder if any Dakotas have been built.
I'm new to this page and boating talk (as of today) , so please feel free to disagree with me but couldn't one argue that if the plywood is glassed pre-assembly that any filletting and/or taping after that would result in merely a mechanical bond?
Don Tyson
Harry James <welshman@...> wrote:
Yep
In the process of building the 3 gulls this summer, we pre fiberglassed
the sides of one of them. It was an experiment in easing the finishing
process. The sides were fiberglassed butt spliced, the splice sanded and
then cut out using a pattern we made from the plans in underlayment and
a pattern router. We laid the sides down flat, I put on 6 oz fiberglas
dry, sqeegying on epoxy, let the epoxy kick a bit, then flow coated per
the Gougeon book. After the second coat kicked enough to not flow
anymore I propped up the middle to pre curve it. I have since decided
that I didn't need to do that. After the epoxy set up we laid the sides
down flat, and used an inline air sander (17x2 in flat surface) to
flatten out the already mostly smooth surface. Actually Mary Ann did the
sanding (her boat). It made for a very good surface, I think I would
like to try the floor sander mentioned earlier instead of the air
sander. On your hands and knees with say a Black Skimmer would pretty
hard on the knees, it took about 2 hrs on the Gull. Check out the first
photo in Bolger photo's, Juneau Boats, to see results. It would be even
better if I had just a little more experience spraying the System 3
stuff. I got it really good on the last boat.
I will use this technique on any plywood boat that I fiberglass the
sides for in the future.
Make sure you sand where you are going to tape
HJ
Randy Beach wrote:
>Is it possible to pre glass all the major parts of the boat prior toBolger rules!!!
>construction and then fasten and tape afterwards?
>
>
>
>
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Yep
In the process of building the 3 gulls this summer, we pre fiberglassed
the sides of one of them. It was an experiment in easing the finishing
process. The sides were fiberglassed butt spliced, the splice sanded and
then cut out using a pattern we made from the plans in underlayment and
a pattern router. We laid the sides down flat, I put on 6 oz fiberglas
dry, sqeegying on epoxy, let the epoxy kick a bit, then flow coated per
the Gougeon book. After the second coat kicked enough to not flow
anymore I propped up the middle to pre curve it. I have since decided
that I didn't need to do that. After the epoxy set up we laid the sides
down flat, and used an inline air sander (17x2 in flat surface) to
flatten out the already mostly smooth surface. Actually Mary Ann did the
sanding (her boat). It made for a very good surface, I think I would
like to try the floor sander mentioned earlier instead of the air
sander. On your hands and knees with say a Black Skimmer would pretty
hard on the knees, it took about 2 hrs on the Gull. Check out the first
photo in Bolger photo's, Juneau Boats, to see results. It would be even
better if I had just a little more experience spraying the System 3
stuff. I got it really good on the last boat.
I will use this technique on any plywood boat that I fiberglass the
sides for in the future.
Make sure you sand where you are going to tape
HJ
Randy Beach wrote:
In the process of building the 3 gulls this summer, we pre fiberglassed
the sides of one of them. It was an experiment in easing the finishing
process. The sides were fiberglassed butt spliced, the splice sanded and
then cut out using a pattern we made from the plans in underlayment and
a pattern router. We laid the sides down flat, I put on 6 oz fiberglas
dry, sqeegying on epoxy, let the epoxy kick a bit, then flow coated per
the Gougeon book. After the second coat kicked enough to not flow
anymore I propped up the middle to pre curve it. I have since decided
that I didn't need to do that. After the epoxy set up we laid the sides
down flat, and used an inline air sander (17x2 in flat surface) to
flatten out the already mostly smooth surface. Actually Mary Ann did the
sanding (her boat). It made for a very good surface, I think I would
like to try the floor sander mentioned earlier instead of the air
sander. On your hands and knees with say a Black Skimmer would pretty
hard on the knees, it took about 2 hrs on the Gull. Check out the first
photo in Bolger photo's, Juneau Boats, to see results. It would be even
better if I had just a little more experience spraying the System 3
stuff. I got it really good on the last boat.
I will use this technique on any plywood boat that I fiberglass the
sides for in the future.
Make sure you sand where you are going to tape
HJ
Randy Beach wrote:
>Is it possible to pre glass all the major parts of the boat prior to
>construction and then fasten and tape afterwards?
>
>
>
>
I'd mention that at least at small scale [say twelve or sixteen feet LOA] it
is perfectly possible to preglass flat then bend to the designed curve. Been
there, done that.
cheers
Derek
is perfectly possible to preglass flat then bend to the designed curve. Been
there, done that.
cheers
Derek
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Beach" <rbeach@b...> wrote:
If your construction method (i.e. "instant boat"-style) depends on
bending flat parts around bulkheads or a jig, you need to apply the
fiberglass *after* the parts have been bent into the proper shape.
Some recent Bolger designs (e.g. Fiji, Insolent 60, etc) are designed
to be constructed in precisely this fashion -- part of the
construction sequence involves making curved "tables" on which hull
panels are laid out and fiberglassed, for later assembly in one go
without ever having to invert the hull.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> Is it possible to pre glass all the major parts of the boat prior toYes, but only if you build the camber into them before fiberglassing.
> construction and then fasten and tape afterwards?
If your construction method (i.e. "instant boat"-style) depends on
bending flat parts around bulkheads or a jig, you need to apply the
fiberglass *after* the parts have been bent into the proper shape.
Some recent Bolger designs (e.g. Fiji, Insolent 60, etc) are designed
to be constructed in precisely this fashion -- part of the
construction sequence involves making curved "tables" on which hull
panels are laid out and fiberglassed, for later assembly in one go
without ever having to invert the hull.
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Is it possible to pre glass all the major parts of the boat prior to
construction and then fasten and tape afterwards?
construction and then fasten and tape afterwards?