Re: Polyester film -- sources
I got a reply today from John Blazy listing sources for the polyester
film. I'll just copy and paste it here:
--------------------------
Sorry for the delay. Been busy on the boat getting ready for
launching in Northern Michigan.
Glad you like the idea. I've recieved a TON of e-mails on this idea
so I
guess it is appreciated - thanks. You can get the film through most
plastics distributorships in your area like GE Polymershapes (formerly
Cadillac Plastics), Curbell Plastics, or other less nationwide
companies.
Many print and graphic supply places might have it. I bought mine
through a
local (Cleveland, OH) plastics/graphic films distributor called Team
Plastics. I've even seen this film in McMaster Carr (of course, but a
little pricey).
Ask for PETG (a co-polyester) or just polyester film like Mylar
brand, at
least 20 mil thick. A popular film availble is Lexan polycarbonate
film. I
have not used it, but I suspect it will work. It would definitely
work if
you left the film masking (the superthin cling film that protects the
thicker film) on, and didn't peel it off, that way it would release
off the
surface well. Always test your film first. I also discovered that
if I left
the film on the epoxy too long (over a month) it really stuck to the
epoxy,
and I had to use a heat gun to peel it off. Otherwize the film comes
off
well.
If you really need some film, I have a few sheets I could sell you.
Make sure to see the most recent updated pictures of the ribbon-stripe
mahogony foredeck I just did on my boat -
www.pbase.com/dr_dichro/electric_boat
film. I'll just copy and paste it here:
--------------------------
Sorry for the delay. Been busy on the boat getting ready for
launching in Northern Michigan.
Glad you like the idea. I've recieved a TON of e-mails on this idea
so I
guess it is appreciated - thanks. You can get the film through most
plastics distributorships in your area like GE Polymershapes (formerly
Cadillac Plastics), Curbell Plastics, or other less nationwide
companies.
Many print and graphic supply places might have it. I bought mine
through a
local (Cleveland, OH) plastics/graphic films distributor called Team
Plastics. I've even seen this film in McMaster Carr (of course, but a
little pricey).
Ask for PETG (a co-polyester) or just polyester film like Mylar
brand, at
least 20 mil thick. A popular film availble is Lexan polycarbonate
film. I
have not used it, but I suspect it will work. It would definitely
work if
you left the film masking (the superthin cling film that protects the
thicker film) on, and didn't peel it off, that way it would release
off the
surface well. Always test your film first. I also discovered that
if I left
the film on the epoxy too long (over a month) it really stuck to the
epoxy,
and I had to use a heat gun to peel it off. Otherwize the film comes
off
well.
If you really need some film, I have a few sheets I could sell you.
Make sure to see the most recent updated pictures of the ribbon-stripe
mahogony foredeck I just did on my boat -
www.pbase.com/dr_dichro/electric_boat
This is basicaly a peel ply technique. One can substitute cheap
nylon, or polyester fabric for peel ply.
I read that 3M Masking film works better than Peel PLy, apparently
West Marine part #425512, and is cheaper too.
Keep in mind that a smooth surface is not the same as a fair one, so
for instance you can put this stuff on the inside to make a nice
finish, but on the outside, in certain circumstances, you would be
better off going stright to fairing the surface. On bolgers where a
lot of tape joints on ply need fairing this can be the case.
Also films aren't good difusers in baging situations, but I'm
guessing we aren't talking bagging.
nylon, or polyester fabric for peel ply.
I read that 3M Masking film works better than Peel PLy, apparently
West Marine part #425512, and is cheaper too.
Keep in mind that a smooth surface is not the same as a fair one, so
for instance you can put this stuff on the inside to make a nice
finish, but on the outside, in certain circumstances, you would be
better off going stright to fairing the surface. On bolgers where a
lot of tape joints on ply need fairing this can be the case.
Also films aren't good difusers in baging situations, but I'm
guessing we aren't talking bagging.
Howdy
fabricator for just that purpose. He said that it is a hydroscopic
(???) plastic, and that I should put it in the oven at low temperature
to dry it out thoroughly before using it.
The bad news is that I forgot what type/name of plastic it is. :( I
think he used it for vacuum forming
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----I have a piece of plastic sheeting that was given to me by a fiberglass
> Subject: [bolger] Re: Polyester film
>
>
> You might try polyethylene sheet also. It would probably have to be
> thicker than the polyester, but it won't stick to the epoxy.
> Try local
> plastics supplier.
fabricator for just that purpose. He said that it is a hydroscopic
(???) plastic, and that I should put it in the oven at low temperature
to dry it out thoroughly before using it.
The bad news is that I forgot what type/name of plastic it is. :( I
think he used it for vacuum forming
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
You might try polyethylene sheet also. It would probably have to be
thicker than the polyester, but it won't stick to the epoxy. Try local
plastics supplier.
thicker than the polyester, but it won't stick to the epoxy. Try local
plastics supplier.
>Garth wrote:
>
>Did you all see this excellent article on Duckworks, about using a
>sheet of .030" polyester film over your wet epoxy and glass to create
>a perfectly smooth prefaired surface?
>
>http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
>
>I'd really like to try it -- but have been searching the web without
>finding a good supplier for the polyester film. Anyone have any
>leads? I e-mailed John Blazy, author of the article, to ask where he
>got his, but haven't heard back.
>
>All best,
>Garth
>
>
>
>
>__________________________
>
>Garth,"Outgassing" is caused by water vapor trying to get out of wood as it
> I've done this some times on small panels with simple Saran Wrap.
>It seems to use less resin than floating it out as mentioned
>earlier. Do it late in the day. Not when the wood is heating up.
>Don
heats up. The vapor can form "tiny bubbles" (apologoes to the other
Don, Don Ho) in the epoxy. So you can preheat the wood/shop, or as
Don says, do the epoxying later rather than earlier.
It affects only the finish clarity, not the structural strength of
the boat. When I glass I pay not a whit of attention to temperature
because I always paint, not varnish.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Garth,
I've done this some times on small panels with simple Saran Wrap. It seems to use less resin than floating it out as mentioned earlier. Do it late in the day. Not when the wood is heating up.
Don
GarthAB <garth@...> wrote:
Did you all see this excellent article on Duckworks, about using a
sheet of .030" polyester film over your wet epoxy and glass to create
a perfectly smooth prefaired surface?
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
I'd really like to try it -- but have been searching the web without
finding a good supplier for the polyester film. Anyone have any
leads? I e-mailed John Blazy, author of the article, to ask where he
got his, but haven't heard back.
All best,
Garth
Bolger rules!!!
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I've done this some times on small panels with simple Saran Wrap. It seems to use less resin than floating it out as mentioned earlier. Do it late in the day. Not when the wood is heating up.
Don
GarthAB <garth@...> wrote:
Did you all see this excellent article on Duckworks, about using a
sheet of .030" polyester film over your wet epoxy and glass to create
a perfectly smooth prefaired surface?
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
I'd really like to try it -- but have been searching the web without
finding a good supplier for the polyester film. Anyone have any
leads? I e-mailed John Blazy, author of the article, to ask where he
got his, but haven't heard back.
All best,
Garth
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Did you all see this excellent article on Duckworks, about using a
sheet of .030" polyester film over your wet epoxy and glass to create
a perfectly smooth prefaired surface?
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
I'd really like to try it -- but have been searching the web without
finding a good supplier for the polyester film. Anyone have any
leads? I e-mailed John Blazy, author of the article, to ask where he
got his, but haven't heard back.
All best,
Garth
sheet of .030" polyester film over your wet epoxy and glass to create
a perfectly smooth prefaired surface?
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
I'd really like to try it -- but have been searching the web without
finding a good supplier for the polyester film. Anyone have any
leads? I e-mailed John Blazy, author of the article, to ask where he
got his, but haven't heard back.
All best,
Garth