Re: [bolger] Re: Olefin? - Xynole...
That was the one on this group about using Polyester Film that Garth
started. I found it fascinating and will try it some day. He reported
and article on Duckworks and there were about 20 posts on the group as a
result. In the message files you ca check the thread it started on 9/8/03.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
HJ
Bill Kreamer wrote:
started. I found it fascinating and will try it some day. He reported
and article on Duckworks and there were about 20 posts on the group as a
result. In the message files you ca check the thread it started on 9/8/03.
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
HJ
Bill Kreamer wrote:
>Got a link to the “plastic smoothing technique thread?”
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Harry James [mailto:welshman@...]
>Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 4:45
>To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
>Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Olefin? - Xynole...
>
>Boatbuilder magazine had an article in the last year or so by a curious
>builder who tested plain epoxy, 6 oz glass, 2 layers of 6 oz glass and 4
>
>oz Xynole. He had an experiment that was pretty good from a scientific
>point of few, easily duplicated, consistently applied across all the
>test samples. He graded the experiments in two ways, by thickness and by
>
>ultimate abrasion resistant.
>
>In his lay-ups applied over plywood, 4 oz Xynole has the same thickness
>as two layers of 6 oz glass.
>
>The results were, 1 layer of 4 oz Xynole had 6 times the abrasion
>resistance of 1 layer of glass and 2 times the resistance of an equal
>thickness of glass i.e. 2 layers of 6 oz glass.
>
>Because of this test we used Xynole on the bottom of the latest boats
>built here because we have very rough beaches. I found it very easy to
>apply around corners, drapes great just like everybody else has
>reported. It took three passes on the epoxy and a lot of sanding to get
>it smooth. It is a great candidate for the plastic smoothing technique
>thread, and I am sure going to give it a try on the next boat.
>
>HJ
>
>
>
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bill Kreamer" <kreamer@a...> wrote:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
> Got a link to the "plastic smoothing technique thread?"Here you go:
http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/r/articles/glass/bottom.cfm
Got a link to the plastic smoothing technique thread?
-----Original Message-----
From: Harry James [mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 4:45
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Olefin? - Xynole...
Boatbuilder magazine had an article in the last year or so by a curious
builder who tested plain epoxy, 6 oz glass, 2 layers of 6 oz glass and 4
oz Xynole. He had an experiment that was pretty good from a scientific
point of few, easily duplicated, consistently applied across all the
test samples. He graded the experiments in two ways, by thickness and by
ultimate abrasion resistant.
In his lay-ups applied over plywood, 4 oz Xynole has the same thickness
as two layers of 6 oz glass.
The results were, 1 layer of 4 oz Xynole had 6 times the abrasion
resistance of 1 layer of glass and 2 times the resistance of an equal
thickness of glass i.e. 2 layers of 6 oz glass.
Because of this test we used Xynole on the bottom of the latest boats
built here because we have very rough beaches. I found it very easy to
apply around corners, drapes great just like everybody else has
reported. It took three passes on the epoxy and a lot of sanding to get
it smooth. It is a great candidate for the plastic smoothing technique
thread, and I am sure going to give it a try on the next boat.
HJ
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
-----Original Message-----
From: Harry James [mailto:welshman@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 21, 2003 4:45
To:bolger@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: Olefin? - Xynole...
Boatbuilder magazine had an article in the last year or so by a curious
builder who tested plain epoxy, 6 oz glass, 2 layers of 6 oz glass and 4
oz Xynole. He had an experiment that was pretty good from a scientific
point of few, easily duplicated, consistently applied across all the
test samples. He graded the experiments in two ways, by thickness and by
ultimate abrasion resistant.
In his lay-ups applied over plywood, 4 oz Xynole has the same thickness
as two layers of 6 oz glass.
The results were, 1 layer of 4 oz Xynole had 6 times the abrasion
resistance of 1 layer of glass and 2 times the resistance of an equal
thickness of glass i.e. 2 layers of 6 oz glass.
Because of this test we used Xynole on the bottom of the latest boats
built here because we have very rough beaches. I found it very easy to
apply around corners, drapes great just like everybody else has
reported. It took three passes on the epoxy and a lot of sanding to get
it smooth. It is a great candidate for the plastic smoothing technique
thread, and I am sure going to give it a try on the next boat.
HJ
.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Boatbuilder magazine had an article in the last year or so by a curious
builder who tested plain epoxy, 6 oz glass, 2 layers of 6 oz glass and 4
oz Xynole. He had an experiment that was pretty good from a scientific
point of few, easily duplicated, consistently applied across all the
test samples. He graded the experiments in two ways, by thickness and by
ultimate abrasion resistant.
In his lay-ups applied over plywood, 4 oz Xynole has the same thickness
as two layers of 6 oz glass.
The results were, 1 layer of 4 oz Xynole had 6 times the abrasion
resistance of 1 layer of glass and 2 times the resistance of an equal
thickness of glass i.e. 2 layers of 6 oz glass.
Because of this test we used Xynole on the bottom of the latest boats
built here because we have very rough beaches. I found it very easy to
apply around corners, drapes great just like everybody else has
reported. It took three passes on the epoxy and a lot of sanding to get
it smooth. It is a great candidate for the plastic smoothing technique
thread, and I am sure going to give it a try on the next boat.
HJ
sctree wrote:
builder who tested plain epoxy, 6 oz glass, 2 layers of 6 oz glass and 4
oz Xynole. He had an experiment that was pretty good from a scientific
point of few, easily duplicated, consistently applied across all the
test samples. He graded the experiments in two ways, by thickness and by
ultimate abrasion resistant.
In his lay-ups applied over plywood, 4 oz Xynole has the same thickness
as two layers of 6 oz glass.
The results were, 1 layer of 4 oz Xynole had 6 times the abrasion
resistance of 1 layer of glass and 2 times the resistance of an equal
thickness of glass i.e. 2 layers of 6 oz glass.
Because of this test we used Xynole on the bottom of the latest boats
built here because we have very rough beaches. I found it very easy to
apply around corners, drapes great just like everybody else has
reported. It took three passes on the epoxy and a lot of sanding to get
it smooth. It is a great candidate for the plastic smoothing technique
thread, and I am sure going to give it a try on the next boat.
HJ
sctree wrote:
>Frank,
>
>Memory fades.... So I went out and check the packages.
>
>4 oz xynole is what I used. I recall it being promoted as being tougher
>than 6 oz glass, but I feel it's even tougher when used in hull
>sheathing, especially when adding graphite. It'd be unfair to compare it
>to 10 oz glass now that I actually look at the actual pieces in the
>light of day.
>
>Definitely tougher than 6 oz, probably as tough as the 8.5 oz glass I
>have....... (My personal opinion only)
>
>Rick-
>
>
>
>
Idon't use the Olefins and such, as I have previously mentioned. A
lot of great designers who have used both still recomend one or the
other. The difference is in stiffness. An Olefined surface for the
same added weight is not going to be as stiff (particularly in
tension), and I doubt it is in any way superior if you pulled out all
the stops and bagged glass to a high fiber content. A good way to
think of it is that if you want to add a tough layer, even on a
weight basis the plastics are good. So boats with heavy bottoms,
like Ruel Parker sharpies, are a natural for plastic, it isn't being
added to beef up the structure. On the other hand lightly built
structures won't pick up stiffness from the olefin in proportion to
weight or cost. So in the Bolger context one might prefer glass on
some of the lightly built dingy things, or some of the decks, etc...
If for example one bent in the bottom on an elegant punt, out of
light luan, adding glass would tend to move the stressed surface
towards the nutral axis, and provide a layer that might increase in
stiffness by 70%.
I think folks like me who tend to build these light boats like glass,
but If I was a drift boat guy, or something similar I would feel
differently.
lot of great designers who have used both still recomend one or the
other. The difference is in stiffness. An Olefined surface for the
same added weight is not going to be as stiff (particularly in
tension), and I doubt it is in any way superior if you pulled out all
the stops and bagged glass to a high fiber content. A good way to
think of it is that if you want to add a tough layer, even on a
weight basis the plastics are good. So boats with heavy bottoms,
like Ruel Parker sharpies, are a natural for plastic, it isn't being
added to beef up the structure. On the other hand lightly built
structures won't pick up stiffness from the olefin in proportion to
weight or cost. So in the Bolger context one might prefer glass on
some of the lightly built dingy things, or some of the decks, etc...
If for example one bent in the bottom on an elegant punt, out of
light luan, adding glass would tend to move the stressed surface
towards the nutral axis, and provide a layer that might increase in
stiffness by 70%.
I think folks like me who tend to build these light boats like glass,
but If I was a drift boat guy, or something similar I would feel
differently.
One can plane chisel, and grate glass. I mercilessly used a japanese
handplane on my tri, cutting back all the protruding stuff one can't
get down to with a knife, It cut like butter, but like cutting some
breads, or cleanly cutting some woods like Red Oak, there are still
modest amounts of dust produced, so if you do it implement all
necesary cautions.
The Jap. plane blade was so good it got sharpened over 3 months,
though it did get dull, but kept cutting due to geometry. i did have
to add a sole to the plane, however as the glass abraded the mouth
area pretty badly.
handplane on my tri, cutting back all the protruding stuff one can't
get down to with a knife, It cut like butter, but like cutting some
breads, or cleanly cutting some woods like Red Oak, there are still
modest amounts of dust produced, so if you do it implement all
necesary cautions.
The Jap. plane blade was so good it got sharpened over 3 months,
though it did get dull, but kept cutting due to geometry. i did have
to add a sole to the plane, however as the glass abraded the mouth
area pretty badly.
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, lindburly@a... wrote:
> I just put 2 layers of xynole on the bottom of the boat I'm
building.
> The negative: it sucks up epoxy like a sponge. I think you have to
use far
> more than with glass.
> The positive: instead of sanding or grinding you can shave it down
very
> nicely with a sharp block plane. It does not dull the blade and
does not create a
> fuzzy surface as does sanding.
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
I just put 2 layers of xynole on the bottom of the boat I'm building.
The negative: it sucks up epoxy like a sponge. I think you have to use far
more than with glass.
The positive: instead of sanding or grinding you can shave it down very
nicely with a sharp block plane. It does not dull the blade and does not create a
fuzzy surface as does sanding.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
The negative: it sucks up epoxy like a sponge. I think you have to use far
more than with glass.
The positive: instead of sanding or grinding you can shave it down very
nicely with a sharp block plane. It does not dull the blade and does not create a
fuzzy surface as does sanding.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
and the no
it etc... One consitant report relative to the palstics is that they
don't geind well. So if you "can't" grind one, why bother grinding
the other?
As of this fall, that's it for me, I just won't grind glass any
more. I use cutting tools that leave big chips, and additive fairing
methods, pretty much as you describe. Spread some baby powder on any
exposed skin if you do grind, and just as at the barber's, no itch.
Of course it's better not to grind, or have any exposed skin.
> itch is a big bonus.....Unless one is spectacularly sensitive glass only itches if you grind
>
> Rick-
>
>
>
>
it etc... One consitant report relative to the palstics is that they
don't geind well. So if you "can't" grind one, why bother grinding
the other?
As of this fall, that's it for me, I just won't grind glass any
more. I use cutting tools that leave big chips, and additive fairing
methods, pretty much as you describe. Spread some baby powder on any
exposed skin if you do grind, and just as at the barber's, no itch.
Of course it's better not to grind, or have any exposed skin.
A lot of that stuff is thicker than equal weight glass, which means
when filled you have a heavier layer. An equal layer of glass/epoxy
might do quite nicely.
when filled you have a heavier layer. An equal layer of glass/epoxy
might do quite nicely.
> Definitely tougher than 6 oz, probably as tough as the 8.5 oz glassI
> have....... (My personal opinion only)
>
> Rick-
>
Frank,
Memory fades.... So I went out and check the packages.
4 oz xynole is what I used. I recall it being promoted as being tougher
than 6 oz glass, but I feel it's even tougher when used in hull
sheathing, especially when adding graphite. It'd be unfair to compare it
to 10 oz glass now that I actually look at the actual pieces in the
light of day.
Definitely tougher than 6 oz, probably as tough as the 8.5 oz glass I
have....... (My personal opinion only)
Rick-
Frank San Miguel wrote:
Memory fades.... So I went out and check the packages.
4 oz xynole is what I used. I recall it being promoted as being tougher
than 6 oz glass, but I feel it's even tougher when used in hull
sheathing, especially when adding graphite. It'd be unfair to compare it
to 10 oz glass now that I actually look at the actual pieces in the
light of day.
Definitely tougher than 6 oz, probably as tough as the 8.5 oz glass I
have....... (My personal opinion only)
Rick-
Frank San Miguel wrote:
> Rick,[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
> What wieght of xynole are you comparing to 10 oz glass?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Frank San Miguel
> Landenberg, PA
>
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
> >
> > No data, but my guess is you'd have to use at least 10 oz glass cloth
> > for similar protection, so epoxy usage would be similar. .
> >
> > The ease of handling the xynole during layout and wetout, and the no
> > itch is a big bonus.....
> >
> > Rick-
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > GarthAB wrote:
> >
> > > and anyone else who has used it --
> > > what are the advantages of olifin over glass? The Defender catalog
> > > says it's "the strongest and most versatile of the synthetic laminate
> > > fabrics" -- but I'd love to hear from real users.
> >
> >
> > >
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
> ADVERTISEMENT
> <http://rd.yahoo.com/M=251812.3856299.5103760.1261774/D=egroupweb/S=1705065791:HM/A=1754451/R=0/SIG=11tkldm5d/*http://www.netflix.com/Default?mqso=60178323&partid=3856299>
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930,
> Fax: (978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
> <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>.
Rick,
What wieght of xynole are you comparing to 10 oz glass?
Thanks,
Frank San Miguel
Landenberg, PA
What wieght of xynole are you comparing to 10 oz glass?
Thanks,
Frank San Miguel
Landenberg, PA
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, sctree <sctree@d...> wrote:
>
> No data, but my guess is you'd have to use at least 10 oz glass cloth
> for similar protection, so epoxy usage would be similar. .
>
> The ease of handling the xynole during layout and wetout, and the no
> itch is a big bonus.....
>
> Rick-
>
>
>
>
> GarthAB wrote:
>
> > and anyone else who has used it --
> > what are the advantages of olifin over glass? The Defender catalog
> > says it's "the strongest and most versatile of the synthetic laminate
> > fabrics" -- but I'd love to hear from real users.
>
>
> >
I've used the Xynole mentioned by others on three boats now. Two are
trailer sailers and have graphite bottoms, one of them is 10 years old.
Lay the Xynole dry over the bottom, squeegee on straight epoxy wetting
the plywood and cloth, scraping excess as you go with a 6" drywall knife
and firm pressure, which leaves the weave open. While the epoxy is still
green use a 12" drywall knife to apply a microballoon with a touch of
silica epoxy mix to fill the weave (this takes surprisingly little epoxy
and time) once tack free enough that it won't lift the filler, roll on
and tip out a layer of epoxy with powdered graphite mixed in. After cure
a light wet sand and you have a tough, durable, superslick, UV
resistant, dark gray bottom that is easy to clean or repair. Both these
boats are routinely run up on sand and gravel west coast lake beaches
and show no sign of damage to date. Didn't measure on the first boat
but the one I did last year used 1.75 oz epoxy per square inch... close
to Jeff's 1/2 gal per plywood sheet with Olefin.
The third boat lives in San Francisco Bay and I did not feel comfortable
about bottom paint sticking to the graphite, so I left out the graphite,
and the owner used a Pettit bottom paint system. Shortly after launch I
was aboard when the owner wanted to put the boat (a Diablo) or more
likely me, to a speed test. Off we went across San Francisco Bay at 21
knots until we were close to Angel Island and he managed to run into and
over what was the doorframe of a barn door, made from 8' long 2x6's
with door hinges and screws sticking out. Although it happened in a
split second, the scraping noise was horrible, a section of the
outboard's cavatation plate was torn off, and the 2x6 frame was cleanly
snapped into three pieces. (I have photos somewhere). Later, close
inspection showed only missing bottom paint, no damage to the Xynole...
No data, but my guess is you'd have to use at least 10 oz glass cloth
for similar protection, so epoxy usage would be similar. .
The ease of handling the xynole during layout and wetout, and the no
itch is a big bonus.....
Rick-
GarthAB wrote:
trailer sailers and have graphite bottoms, one of them is 10 years old.
Lay the Xynole dry over the bottom, squeegee on straight epoxy wetting
the plywood and cloth, scraping excess as you go with a 6" drywall knife
and firm pressure, which leaves the weave open. While the epoxy is still
green use a 12" drywall knife to apply a microballoon with a touch of
silica epoxy mix to fill the weave (this takes surprisingly little epoxy
and time) once tack free enough that it won't lift the filler, roll on
and tip out a layer of epoxy with powdered graphite mixed in. After cure
a light wet sand and you have a tough, durable, superslick, UV
resistant, dark gray bottom that is easy to clean or repair. Both these
boats are routinely run up on sand and gravel west coast lake beaches
and show no sign of damage to date. Didn't measure on the first boat
but the one I did last year used 1.75 oz epoxy per square inch... close
to Jeff's 1/2 gal per plywood sheet with Olefin.
The third boat lives in San Francisco Bay and I did not feel comfortable
about bottom paint sticking to the graphite, so I left out the graphite,
and the owner used a Pettit bottom paint system. Shortly after launch I
was aboard when the owner wanted to put the boat (a Diablo) or more
likely me, to a speed test. Off we went across San Francisco Bay at 21
knots until we were close to Angel Island and he managed to run into and
over what was the doorframe of a barn door, made from 8' long 2x6's
with door hinges and screws sticking out. Although it happened in a
split second, the scraping noise was horrible, a section of the
outboard's cavatation plate was torn off, and the 2x6 frame was cleanly
snapped into three pieces. (I have photos somewhere). Later, close
inspection showed only missing bottom paint, no damage to the Xynole...
No data, but my guess is you'd have to use at least 10 oz glass cloth
for similar protection, so epoxy usage would be similar. .
The ease of handling the xynole during layout and wetout, and the no
itch is a big bonus.....
Rick-
GarthAB wrote:
> and anyone else who has used it --
> what are the advantages of olifin over glass? The Defender catalog
> says it's "the strongest and most versatile of the synthetic laminate
> fabrics" -- but I'd love to hear from real users.
>
the best part about this stuff is...no itching! I used the stuff
from Defender on the bottom of my Michalak Campjon, and, yeah it took
a bit more epoxy to apply it, but skipping three days of itching from
glass fibers was worth every penny.
Adam (itch-free evermore)
long island, ny
from Defender on the bottom of my Michalak Campjon, and, yeah it took
a bit more epoxy to apply it, but skipping three days of itching from
glass fibers was worth every penny.
Adam (itch-free evermore)
long island, ny
>> Tyvek is "spunbonded polyolefin fiber". FWIW.I have tried small patches of the black "landscaping cloth". I
>
>Would Tyvek take epoxy? With the tighter weave, you would use less epoxy by
>far since it's the burlap type of loose weave of Olefin that leaves all the
>space to fill with epoxy. Since it's air tight, probably not much but if you
>could lay it on a coated piece of plywood, roll it down, maybe it would
>absorb enough to be functional.
>
>Has anyone tried this?
>
>Jeff
suspect it will work with vacuum bagging... but not well otherwise.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
> Tyvek is "spunbonded polyolefin fiber". FWIW.Would Tyvek take epoxy? With the tighter weave, you would use less epoxy by
far since it's the burlap type of loose weave of Olefin that leaves all the
space to fill with epoxy. Since it's air tight, probably not much but if you
could lay it on a coated piece of plywood, roll it down, maybe it would
absorb enough to be functional.
Has anyone tried this?
Jeff
>Personally I don't think I'd use it again because of the epoxy usage. I'dTyvek is "spunbonded polyolefin fiber". FWIW.
>just use heavier fiberglass to get the same protection. The Olefin is about
>like 4 oz.. fiberglass in weight, maybe lighter but 8 oz. or 9 oz.
>fiberglass would probably have the same protection and use less epoxy.
>
>Oh, and it doesn't wet out clear. You have to paint.
--
Craig O'Donnell
Sinepuxent Ancestors & Boats
<http://freepages.genealogy.rootsweb.com/~fassitt/>
The Proa FAQ <http://boat-links.com/proafaq.html>
The Cheap Pages <http://www2.friend.ly.net/~dadadata/>
Sailing Canoes, Polytarp Sails, Bamboo, Chinese Junks,
American Proas, the Bolger Boat Honor Roll,
Plywood Boats, Bamboo Rafts, &c.
_________________________________
-- Professor of Boatology -- Junkomologist
-- Macintosh kinda guy
Friend of Wanda the Wonder Cat, 1991-1997.
_________________________________
---
[This E-mail scanned for viruses by friend.ly.net.]
Isn't this the fabric of choice for Ruel Parkers designs?
Don
Jeff <boatbuilding@...> wrote:
Yes, I'm putting on about 100 yards of the Olefin on the Wyo. It is
supposed to be very strong compared to fiberglass of the same weight. It's
easier to use by far both in draping and wet out so I really like it for
that but the down side is the epoxy usage. I figure at least 1/2 gallon of
epoxy per 4x8 sheet of plywood to get to a smooth finish. It's expensive to
put on but in some minor test, it's very difficult to puncture. Even with a
screw driver and a hammer you have to really hit it to get to the plywood.
It'll dent but not puncture.
Personally I don't think I'd use it again because of the epoxy usage. I'd
just use heavier fiberglass to get the same protection. The Olefin is about
like 4 oz.. fiberglass in weight, maybe lighter but 8 oz. or 9 oz.
fiberglass would probably have the same protection and use less epoxy.
Oh, and it doesn't wet out clear. You have to paint.
Jeff
Don
Jeff <boatbuilding@...> wrote:
Yes, I'm putting on about 100 yards of the Olefin on the Wyo. It is
supposed to be very strong compared to fiberglass of the same weight. It's
easier to use by far both in draping and wet out so I really like it for
that but the down side is the epoxy usage. I figure at least 1/2 gallon of
epoxy per 4x8 sheet of plywood to get to a smooth finish. It's expensive to
put on but in some minor test, it's very difficult to puncture. Even with a
screw driver and a hammer you have to really hit it to get to the plywood.
It'll dent but not puncture.
Personally I don't think I'd use it again because of the epoxy usage. I'd
just use heavier fiberglass to get the same protection. The Olefin is about
like 4 oz.. fiberglass in weight, maybe lighter but 8 oz. or 9 oz.
fiberglass would probably have the same protection and use less epoxy.
Oh, and it doesn't wet out clear. You have to paint.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "GarthAB"
To:
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 6:30 AM
Subject: [bolger] Olifin?
> I think Jeff Blunck mentioned he was using olifin on his Wyoming
> instead of fiberglass. Jeff -- and anyone else who has used it --
> what are the advantages of olifin over glass? The Defender catalog
> says it's "the strongest and most versatile of the synthetic laminate
> fabrics" -- but I'd love to hear from real users. Also -- does it wet
> out clear?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Bolger rules!!!
- no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
- stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
- Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
- Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax: (978) 282-1349
- Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
- Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> the advantages of olifin over glass? TheI used Xynol, on my Teal and my Spur II,
> fabrics" -- but I'd love to hear from real users.
[the Raka fabric simlar to Olifin.]
It takes lots of epoxy to fill, and is tougher
than fiberglass. That is, it has more spring,
a sort of elasticity than glass. Dragging
the boats across a sharp rock the Xynol bounces
off, where a glassed bottom would be more
brittle and just 'crunch'. No, it is milky when
filled with epoxy, not clear.
I recommend it if you plan to drag your
boat across the rocks.
Yes, I'm putting on about 100 yards of the Olefin on the Wyo. It is
supposed to be very strong compared to fiberglass of the same weight. It's
easier to use by far both in draping and wet out so I really like it for
that but the down side is the epoxy usage. I figure at least 1/2 gallon of
epoxy per 4x8 sheet of plywood to get to a smooth finish. It's expensive to
put on but in some minor test, it's very difficult to puncture. Even with a
screw driver and a hammer you have to really hit it to get to the plywood.
It'll dent but not puncture.
Personally I don't think I'd use it again because of the epoxy usage. I'd
just use heavier fiberglass to get the same protection. The Olefin is about
like 4 oz.. fiberglass in weight, maybe lighter but 8 oz. or 9 oz.
fiberglass would probably have the same protection and use less epoxy.
Oh, and it doesn't wet out clear. You have to paint.
Jeff
supposed to be very strong compared to fiberglass of the same weight. It's
easier to use by far both in draping and wet out so I really like it for
that but the down side is the epoxy usage. I figure at least 1/2 gallon of
epoxy per 4x8 sheet of plywood to get to a smooth finish. It's expensive to
put on but in some minor test, it's very difficult to puncture. Even with a
screw driver and a hammer you have to really hit it to get to the plywood.
It'll dent but not puncture.
Personally I don't think I'd use it again because of the epoxy usage. I'd
just use heavier fiberglass to get the same protection. The Olefin is about
like 4 oz.. fiberglass in weight, maybe lighter but 8 oz. or 9 oz.
fiberglass would probably have the same protection and use less epoxy.
Oh, and it doesn't wet out clear. You have to paint.
Jeff
----- Original Message -----
From: "GarthAB" <garth@...>
To: <bolger@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2003 6:30 AM
Subject: [bolger] Olifin?
> I think Jeff Blunck mentioned he was using olifin on his Wyoming
> instead of fiberglass. Jeff -- and anyone else who has used it --
> what are the advantages of olifin over glass? The Defender catalog
> says it's "the strongest and most versatile of the synthetic laminate
> fabrics" -- but I'd love to hear from real users. Also -- does it wet
> out clear?
>
> Thanks for any advice.
>
> All best,
> Garth
>
>
>
> Bolger rules!!!
> - no cursing, flaming, trolling, spamming, or flogging dead horses
> - stay on topic, stay on thread, punctuate, no 'Ed, thanks, Fred' posts
> - Pls add your comments at the TOP, SIGN your posts, and snip away
> - Plans: Mr. Philip C. Bolger, P.O. Box 1209, Gloucester, MA, 01930, Fax:
(978) 282-1349
> - Unsubscribe:bolger-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
> - Open discussion:bolger_coffee_lounge-subscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject tohttp://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
I think Jeff Blunck mentioned he was using olifin on his Wyoming
instead of fiberglass. Jeff -- and anyone else who has used it --
what are the advantages of olifin over glass? The Defender catalog
says it's "the strongest and most versatile of the synthetic laminate
fabrics" -- but I'd love to hear from real users. Also -- does it wet
out clear?
Thanks for any advice.
All best,
Garth
instead of fiberglass. Jeff -- and anyone else who has used it --
what are the advantages of olifin over glass? The Defender catalog
says it's "the strongest and most versatile of the synthetic laminate
fabrics" -- but I'd love to hear from real users. Also -- does it wet
out clear?
Thanks for any advice.
All best,
Garth