Re: "abondon ship"
Well, maybe it isn't that bad. I built a version of the OSS for my
son, and like pointy skiff it has a pretty flat bottom. And I also
used exterior grade fir. And just like your boat, Andy's developed
leaking 'areas'. I hadn't painted the interior - I had put on three
coats of spar varnish but it was checking pretty badly. Looking on
the bottom side of the boat I could see long checks in the urethane
paint I had put on. In the end I let it dry really well in the sun
and put a good coat of epoxy in the interior. I used RAKA, and used
the slow hardener so that it would soak into the wood and fill any
small voids. Then I took my trusty side grinder and with a flapper
wheel on it, sanded all of the paint off of the bottom of the boat.
I went to the local auto parts store and bought a couple of packages
of glass cloth and covered the bottom of the boat with this and
liberal epoxy. That was the end of the problem. It is much stronger,
doesn't flex when steped on, and is abrasion resistant.
I think that the exterior ply doesn't do well on a flat bottom. When
you step on it, it will flex a little and open up a check. Then it
isn't dense enough to keep the water from leaking through. You might
want to check carefully to see if you have a void that is letting
water channel in. If you find one it can be filled the a syringe and
epoxy. I hope this is helpful. Best of Luck,
Dave Hahn
Delta Utah
son, and like pointy skiff it has a pretty flat bottom. And I also
used exterior grade fir. And just like your boat, Andy's developed
leaking 'areas'. I hadn't painted the interior - I had put on three
coats of spar varnish but it was checking pretty badly. Looking on
the bottom side of the boat I could see long checks in the urethane
paint I had put on. In the end I let it dry really well in the sun
and put a good coat of epoxy in the interior. I used RAKA, and used
the slow hardener so that it would soak into the wood and fill any
small voids. Then I took my trusty side grinder and with a flapper
wheel on it, sanded all of the paint off of the bottom of the boat.
I went to the local auto parts store and bought a couple of packages
of glass cloth and covered the bottom of the boat with this and
liberal epoxy. That was the end of the problem. It is much stronger,
doesn't flex when steped on, and is abrasion resistant.
I think that the exterior ply doesn't do well on a flat bottom. When
you step on it, it will flex a little and open up a check. Then it
isn't dense enough to keep the water from leaking through. You might
want to check carefully to see if you have a void that is letting
water channel in. If you find one it can be filled the a syringe and
epoxy. I hope this is helpful. Best of Luck,
Dave Hahn
Delta Utah
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Randy Beach" <rbeach@b...> wrote:
> "I finished a pointy skiff this summer and have only had it on the
> water for a few evening fishing trips and disaster has struck.
> putting the boat in the water last week and the darn thing started
> leeking. Straining is probably a better word. The water was
comming
> up through the floor. Not a hole but all over a one foot area. I
> used exterior grade fir..."
> Any idea's on what I should do? I have thought of pulling of theHow are you getting water to perk through solid ply?
> runners sanding and glassing the bottom but how much do I need to
> sand before I can safely use the apoxy?
Is it possibly coming through the above mentioned runners, where they
are screwed on or nailed. If so, why not pull them off, and bed them
with something like Sikaflex. if there are no holes in the plywood,
and the chines aren't leaking around the chine logs, it should be
fine with just paint.
The only thing is that if the designer was counting on light ply, and
glass, then possibly you can't skip the latter.
If you glass, grind back to bare wood. A sander polisher, or a belt
sander will make short work of the paint.
I finished a pointy skiff this summer and have only had it on the
water for a few evening fishing trips and disaster has struck.
putting the boat in the water last week and the darn thing started
leeking. Straining is probably a better word. The water was comming
up through the floor. Not a hole but all over a one foot area. I
used exterior grade fir(can't get anything else up in Alaska). After
the boat was completed I put 3 coats of Kilts exterior primor on and
then 3 coats of exterior paint.
Any idea's on what I should do? I have thought of pulling of the
runners sanding and glassing the bottom but how much do I need to
sand before I can safely use the apoxy? Or should I should I
completely remove and replace the bottom. If I choose that Route I
might as well build a new boat. Or can I slap on a sheet of marine
grade plywood on the bottom somehow?
Thanks,
Randy
water for a few evening fishing trips and disaster has struck.
putting the boat in the water last week and the darn thing started
leeking. Straining is probably a better word. The water was comming
up through the floor. Not a hole but all over a one foot area. I
used exterior grade fir(can't get anything else up in Alaska). After
the boat was completed I put 3 coats of Kilts exterior primor on and
then 3 coats of exterior paint.
Any idea's on what I should do? I have thought of pulling of the
runners sanding and glassing the bottom but how much do I need to
sand before I can safely use the apoxy? Or should I should I
completely remove and replace the bottom. If I choose that Route I
might as well build a new boat. Or can I slap on a sheet of marine
grade plywood on the bottom somehow?
Thanks,
Randy