Re: Re: CarTopping, which way up?
I prefer the straps where you tug on the end and then flip down a buckle
to hold. I think the ratchet type are powerful enough to crush your
boat, rack, or maybe even sheet metal with a moment's inattention. But
not if you are careful every time. I do find the ratchet part annoyingly
bulky.
I've found that if you wrap a light line around an adjacent strap or
part of the rack, not necessarily all that tightly, it damps out the
noise pretty well, at least if you don't leave long undamped sections.
You can also use surplus strap for this, or shock cord at intervals or
whatever. Makes for less mental agitation on long drives. I suspect this
also extends the life of the strap by reducing abrasion as it moves.
to hold. I think the ratchet type are powerful enough to crush your
boat, rack, or maybe even sheet metal with a moment's inattention. But
not if you are careful every time. I do find the ratchet part annoyingly
bulky.
I've found that if you wrap a light line around an adjacent strap or
part of the rack, not necessarily all that tightly, it damps out the
noise pretty well, at least if you don't leave long undamped sections.
You can also use surplus strap for this, or shock cord at intervals or
whatever. Makes for less mental agitation on long drives. I suspect this
also extends the life of the strap by reducing abrasion as it moves.
>snip
>
>With the little ratchets? That is what I used to cartop my daughter's
>D4 pram.
>
>snip
>
>
>Only problem was that the wind caused some weird harmonics
>when I got over about 60kmh.
>
>Bruce Fountain
>Senior Software Engineer
>Union Switch & Signal
>Perth, Western Australia
>
Howdy Bruce
That should stop the harmonics. It's a Truckers trick.
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> -----Original Message-----Put a single twist in the strap in the section exposed to the wind.
> Subject: Re: [bolger] Re: CarTopping, which way up?
> Only problem was that the wind caused some weird harmonics
> when I got over about 60kmh.
That should stop the harmonics. It's a Truckers trick.
See Ya
Have Fun
Bruce
http://myweb.cableone.net/bcanderson/
> Only problem was that the wind caused some weird harmonicsTruckers put a 180 deg. twist in the strap to stop that. Keeps the
> when I got over about 60kmh.
flat strap from acting like a wing it the air stream.
Charles
This has quite an appeal Bruce.
If your passenger had a violin bow, and could stroke the strap with
the beat, a road symphony would be a beautiful thing.
DonB
If your passenger had a violin bow, and could stroke the strap with
the beat, a road symphony would be a beautiful thing.
DonB
> Only problem was that the wind caused some weird harmonics
> when I got over about 60kmh.
>
> Bruce Fountain
> Senior Software Engineer
> Union Switch & Signal
> Perth, Western Australia
Mark wrote:
D4 pram. If your roof rack is not a serious job but one of those toy
things that are meant to look streamlined then this is a good solution
- I ran two longitudinal runners between the racks, put a foam mat
over the runners, and sat the (shallow V) hull upright between the
runners. Then I took the straps right over the boat and through the
open doors and ratcheted them up tight. Because they are flat
you can close the door on them and they don't scratch the paint.
Only problem was that the wind caused some weird harmonics
when I got over about 60kmh.
Bruce Fountain
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch & Signal
Perth, Western Australia
> For the knot impaired, don't forget those handy cargo web straps.With the little ratchets? That is what I used to cartop my daughter's
D4 pram. If your roof rack is not a serious job but one of those toy
things that are meant to look streamlined then this is a good solution
- I ran two longitudinal runners between the racks, put a foam mat
over the runners, and sat the (shallow V) hull upright between the
runners. Then I took the straps right over the boat and through the
open doors and ratcheted them up tight. Because they are flat
you can close the door on them and they don't scratch the paint.
Only problem was that the wind caused some weird harmonics
when I got over about 60kmh.
Bruce Fountain
Senior Software Engineer
Union Switch & Signal
Perth, Western Australia
Bruce,I still remember some great truckers' hitches learned from
the A&B team in Annapolis,and I still use them today,not only on
boats but sure to make anything full highwayspeed safe.
By the way,looking for a tchat on Sunday??
Stephan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector"
<bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
the A&B team in Annapolis,and I still use them today,not only on
boats but sure to make anything full highwayspeed safe.
By the way,looking for a tchat on Sunday??
Stephan
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector"
<bruce_hector@h...> wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Davis"<futabachan@y...> wrote:
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@p...>wrote: and
> Bruce tied her in place with some truckers' hitches, and shestayed
> perfectly frozen in place for the whole trip back at full highwayfigure
> speeds.
>
> Sorry Sue,
>
> Those were sailor knots and hitches. A bowline or two, a few
> of eight loops and a parbuckle to tighten the lines.
>
> Bos'un Bruce
> -- Sue --For the knot impaired, don't forget those handy cargo web straps.
> (it's much simpler to tie than to explain)
Mark
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Hallman <bruce@h...> wrote:
makes a loop in one end of the rope. The other end of the rope goes
around the cargo and then attaches to the loop with a double or
triple half hitch.
If you want it very easy to untie - make the first half hitch by
sticking a bow though and not the rope end (like a bow knot-shoe
laces). Then lay the loop beside the rope and tie another half hitch
or more around all three pieces to lock things in place. The second
(and third and fourth...) half hitch is not under load and unties
easily. The first half hitch holds the load and is tight but unties
easily because of the bow. It used to be taught in USAF survival
school a long time ago to secure packs made from used parachutes.
Charles
> --- Susan Davis wrote:It sounds like it is actually two knots. A "double figure 8 loop"
>
> > Well, the knot that Bruce used
makes a loop in one end of the rope. The other end of the rope goes
around the cargo and then attaches to the loop with a double or
triple half hitch.
If you want it very easy to untie - make the first half hitch by
sticking a bow though and not the rope end (like a bow knot-shoe
laces). Then lay the loop beside the rope and tie another half hitch
or more around all three pieces to lock things in place. The second
(and third and fourth...) half hitch is not under load and unties
easily. The first half hitch holds the load and is tight but unties
easily because of the bow. It used to be taught in USAF survival
school a long time ago to secure packs made from used parachutes.
Charles
> ...is called a Packer's Knot,
> do a Google to see diagrams.
>
> It is my favorite knot, for cinching
> things tight. For parbuckling
> though, I am not sure...as a Packer's
> Knot would be hard to untie.
>
>http://www.inquiry.net/images/rope03.gif
>
> ...shows a 'Harvester's Knot' [which I
> have never used], but it might be more handy.
Similar to this, Sue:
http://www.dfw.net/~jazzman/knotter/truckers.htm
Chuck
http://www.dfw.net/~jazzman/knotter/truckers.htm
Chuck
> Well, the knot that Bruce used (and which I've been using ever since)
> involves making a bight in the line and tying a figure-eight knot
> in that so that the "bitter end" of the bight gives you a nice loop.
> The actual bitter end is then led around your other attachment point
> and back up to the loop, pulled tight (which gets a *lot* of slack
> out of the line), and secured with three half hitches.
>
> -- Sue --
> (it's much simpler to tie than to explain)
>
> --
> Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
--- Susan Davis wrote:
do a Google to see diagrams.
It is my favorite knot, for cinching
things tight. For parbuckling
though, I am not sure...as a Packer's
Knot would be hard to untie.
http://www.inquiry.net/images/rope03.gif
...shows a 'Harvester's Knot' [which I
have never used], but it might be more handy.
> Well, the knot that Bruce used...is called a Packer's Knot,
do a Google to see diagrams.
It is my favorite knot, for cinching
things tight. For parbuckling
though, I am not sure...as a Packer's
Knot would be hard to untie.
http://www.inquiry.net/images/rope03.gif
...shows a 'Harvester's Knot' [which I
have never used], but it might be more handy.
Bryant:
involves making a bight in the line and tying a figure-eight knot
in that so that the "bitter end" of the bight gives you a nice loop.
The actual bitter end is then led around your other attachment point
and back up to the loop, pulled tight (which gets a *lot* of slack
out of the line), and secured with three half hitches.
-- Sue --
(it's much simpler to tie than to explain)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> I know bowlines and figure of eight (and recently found out how toWell, the knot that Bruce used (and which I've been using ever since)
> tie a Monk's knot stopper knot) but how do you tie a parbuckle?
involves making a bight in the line and tying a figure-eight knot
in that so that the "bitter end" of the bight gives you a nice loop.
The actual bitter end is then led around your other attachment point
and back up to the loop, pulled tight (which gets a *lot* of slack
out of the line), and secured with three half hitches.
-- Sue --
(it's much simpler to tie than to explain)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
Yo Bruce
I know bowlines and figure of eight (and recently found out how to
tie a Monk's knot stopper knot) but how do you tie a parbuckle?
Bryant
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
I know bowlines and figure of eight (and recently found out how to
tie a Monk's knot stopper knot) but how do you tie a parbuckle?
Bryant
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Bruce Hector" <bruce_hector@h...>
wrote:
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Davis" <futabachan@y...>wrote:
> > --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote: and
> Bruce tied her in place with some truckers' hitches, and she stayed
> perfectly frozen in place for the whole trip back at full highway
> speeds.
>
> Sorry Sue,
>
> Those were sailor knots and hitches. A bowline or two, a few figure
> of eight loops and a parbuckle to tighten the lines.
>
> Bos'un Bruce
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "Susan Davis" <futabachan@y...> wrote:
perfectly frozen in place for the whole trip back at full highway
speeds.
Sorry Sue,
Those were sailor knots and hitches. A bowline or two, a few figure
of eight loops and a parbuckle to tighten the lines.
Bos'un Bruce
> --- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote: andBruce tied her in place with some truckers' hitches, and she stayed
perfectly frozen in place for the whole trip back at full highway
speeds.
Sorry Sue,
Those were sailor knots and hitches. A bowline or two, a few figure
of eight loops and a parbuckle to tighten the lines.
Bos'un Bruce
Yeh, I'd forget it. You'll be more secure the other way.
Mark
dbaldnz wrote:
Mark
dbaldnz wrote:
>
> I forgot to add, the boat has a Vee bottom, which may make things a
> little more difficult than a Windsprint, right side up?
> DonB
I forgot to add, the boat has a Vee bottom, which may make things a
little more difficult than a Windsprint, right side up?
DonB
little more difficult than a Windsprint, right side up?
DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, Mark <marka@h...> wrote:
> I used to carry my 16' x 4' 6" Windsprint right side up without a
hitch, though upon a
> rather powerful car. That was better than turning the big double
ender over twice each
> outing, and the job was made easier with a side loading roller bar.
>
> The crossbars shouldn't be left too narrow in either case. A
little longer than absolutely
> necessary gives maneuver room and lets you also tie on mast and
oars, rather than have
> them clattering around. Six inches each side beyond the roof line
isn't bad.
>
> Bon voyage!
> Mark
>
> > Across the gunwales is 4'6", quite wide for upside down. I
thought
> > she may be better the right way up, so the rack will not stick
out
> > too far.
> > DonB
I used to carry my 16' x 4' 6" Windsprint right side up without a hitch, though upon a
rather powerful car. That was better than turning the big double ender over twice each
outing, and the job was made easier with a side loading roller bar.
The crossbars shouldn't be left too narrow in either case. A little longer than absolutely
necessary gives maneuver room and lets you also tie on mast and oars, rather than have
them clattering around. Six inches each side beyond the roof line isn't bad.
Bon voyage!
Mark
rather powerful car. That was better than turning the big double ender over twice each
outing, and the job was made easier with a side loading roller bar.
The crossbars shouldn't be left too narrow in either case. A little longer than absolutely
necessary gives maneuver room and lets you also tie on mast and oars, rather than have
them clattering around. Six inches each side beyond the roof line isn't bad.
Bon voyage!
Mark
> Across the gunwales is 4'6", quite wide for upside down. I thought
> she may be better the right way up, so the rack will not stick out
> too far.
> DonB
--- Inbolger@yahoogroups.com, "dbaldnz" <oink@p...> wrote:
the Kingston Messabout, and upside down on the way back. It was
a very nervous drive on the way there -- the boat kept shifting
and banging up and down, to the point that we dented our roof
rack. At the Messabout, a squad of strong men helped us get the
thing up there upside down, and Bruce tied her in place with
some truckers' hitches, and she stayed perfectly frozen in place
for the whole trip back at full highway speeds.
We've vowed never to carry the dory up there right side up again.
-- Sue --
(actually, once _Shrike_'s trailer is finished, we'll use that to
lug the dory around -- she's a mean thing to heave up to the roof
of an Aztek)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
> The paint is drying on my new dinghy, and launch time looms.We cartopped our Gloucester Gull right side up from Rochester to
> I will cartop, but not sure which way up is best. Has anyone tried
> both, to compare?
the Kingston Messabout, and upside down on the way back. It was
a very nervous drive on the way there -- the boat kept shifting
and banging up and down, to the point that we dented our roof
rack. At the Messabout, a squad of strong men helped us get the
thing up there upside down, and Bruce tied her in place with
some truckers' hitches, and she stayed perfectly frozen in place
for the whole trip back at full highway speeds.
We've vowed never to carry the dory up there right side up again.
-- Sue --
(actually, once _Shrike_'s trailer is finished, we'll use that to
lug the dory around -- she's a mean thing to heave up to the roof
of an Aztek)
--
Susan Davis <futabachan@...>
The paint is drying on my new dinghy, and launch time looms.
I will cartop, but not sure which way up is best. Has anyone tried
both, to compare?
Across the gunwales is 4'6", quite wide for upside down. I thought
she may be better the right way up, so the rack will not stick out
too far. I have also heard you get a lot of uplift from the curved
shape, if carried upsidedown.
Any experience would be appreciated.
DonB
I will cartop, but not sure which way up is best. Has anyone tried
both, to compare?
Across the gunwales is 4'6", quite wide for upside down. I thought
she may be better the right way up, so the rack will not stick out
too far. I have also heard you get a lot of uplift from the curved
shape, if carried upsidedown.
Any experience would be appreciated.
DonB